they're not very consisntent between movies honestly

@@augustdrobney4077 I have V2 and Mark III versions. www.printables.com/model/582748-mark-iii-manual-2-3-2-shoulder-for-mr-baddeley-ast

Too much to unpack in this forum. Let's continue the discussion on facebook.com/groups/timhebelsdroidfactory

Hmm, I used reference photo's from a screen used probe. Did I get my movies cross-wired?

@@spacekb17 Yes, it requires the longer version of the ankles and the associated greebles.

Use magnets like we all do. Zero issues.

@@davidreavis5917 Yes. However this is not an add-on to R-DUO. The speaker system is part of the design. www.printables.com/model/582792-r-duo-astromech

@@spacekb17 I did both. Screw and glue.

@@TheEebel thanks! Think petg or abs filament would do for the cable? I don’t have nylon

@@spacekb17 Either. I used PETG.

@@TheEebel thanks Tim! On another note, did you use the “servo horn” utility arm servo gear file? I’m worried about the gear slipping on the servo with just a screw holding it rather than the 25T gear on the servo. I could not find a off the shelf horn to work with the other “servo horn” file in Mr Bs files.

@@spacekb17 I used a had to scale up the heat a bit. But otherwise used the stock parts from Mr. B on the utility arm. It’s been going since 2019 for my Mark III build. On my v2 2018 vintage build, I used stock parts. However, I did redo the servo mounts for easier servo changes.

@@Eric-et5hw Only required on the top.

@@toad7000 I’m running power for the Arduino straight from my 5V buss. I also power the Maestro from its own connect to the same 5V buss. The only connection between the Arduino and the Maestro is the two signal pins. The GND is common dance they have power source. You could power the Arduino from the Maestro I suppose. I prefer to have the power distribution more direct though.

@@TheEebel I’m attempting to replicate this for BT-1s launcher LEDs using your CBI/DP sketch for reference. Just to confirm, the only wires I need from the maestro to my nano are the maestro signal & gnd wires? Although they’re on the same power bus, I figured a communication gnd wouldn’t hurt.

I figured it out. I just needed to send the signal to a digital pin. Thanks for the inspiration.

Yes!

⁠are you using your own controller vs. the one offered with the kit?

@@spacekb17 This is a 2018-vintage Arduino Uno. This is whatever came with the lights back then. I think current controller is an Arduino Pro Mini. I haven’t tested the code on that board, however, I don’t see why it wouldn’t run on any of these boards.

@@crowland3358 Yes/. However, you will need to cut the dispenser slot yourself.

I didn't make a video for that. Just use wood screws (may 3/4 inch) to mount the fans to the plate and make sure the airflow is pointed outward. I used 24V fans and hooked them to a switch so I could use them if needed. For example, if he was going to be a static display, I would leave the fans off. If I was going to run him actively, I turn the fans on.

@@TheEebel thank you so much again for sharing your Wonderful idea.

Happy to help!

Right after I commented this I found your Thingiverse, thankyou sir. While I am at it Thankyou for this video, it is my constant reference for what I hope to achieve with my R2 as well as a blueprint for how to achieve it.

I designed them. They are on my prinables page www.printables.com/model/582773-r2-d2-teeces-marcduino-mrbaddely-holoservo-mount

Yes

Yes

Don’t worry, there is a lot of information on Arduino programming available.

I’ll test v6 firmware and report back.

SithBusters!

Tank mode is just the nomenclature of this style of mixing. It’s also called arcade style. If your R2 is driving fine, there is no need to change anything. This video was made to get someone new to RC to a drivable state. I searched all of the internet trying to figure out how to do a mix like this for my first RC droid and there was not a video for it. This video, hopefully, fills that gap.

It's not about a difference in the droid's movement so much as a difference in how you get those movements from the radio. Tank mixing lets you combine the horizontal and vertical axes of a single gimbal in such a way that it can control both of the tracks (or wheels) freeing up the second stick for other purposes. This way, left/right on that stick rotates/steers the droid, and up/down moves it forward and reverse. The alternative control scheme is typically to use the vertical axis of the left stick to control the left track, and the vertical axis of the right stick for the right-hand track. With this method, you've simply moved the tank mixing off of the radio and into your brain. The main (only?) advantage of this second control scheme is that it's a bit more straightforward to implement ... each stick controls one motor directly. The downside is that separating the droid's movement inputs from each other like that can be sub-optimal, especially when your droid has other multi-axis inputs that should logically be grouped together and/or suggest use of a gimbal's vertical axis. For example, consider the droid in my profile pic, LD-F1. In addition to the tank drive, he can both nod his head front-back and tilt it left-right (he can also look to either side, but I use a potentiometer for that). Intuition suggests using a vertical axis for nodding and a horizontal axis for tilting, ideally on the same stick. I can easily do that with the gimbal left free by in-radio tank mixing. On the second control scheme, I'd be forced to not only split LD-F1's locomotion onto two different sticks, I'd also have to split his head motion as well, and I'd have to control the front-back nodding motion by moving one of those stick left-right. It doesn't make sense from a puppeteering standpoint. It can also be weird to control. Say I'm turning him, driving the right track forward by moving the right stick up ... but I accidentally nudge the stick a bit to one side. Suddenly, his head is also either tilting or nodding, depending which stick I mapped those to. Putting a bit of deadband on the sticks (so slight deflections away from the center of each axis won't trigger that axis to move) can mitigate that, but it's best to avoid the issue altogether by grouping related functions on one stick.

@@TrollandError Excellent explanation. I cut and pasted your explanation into my "Notebook" for programming for future reference. Thanks again. Easily understood what you provided.

@@GunnerAl9 I should also note that some control systems don't necessarily even have two sticks to use with that second control setup. SHADOW, for example, can be used to drive a droid with only one single-stick PS3 Nav controller (you can also use two of them though). Tank mixing would be required for this setup, and would have to be programmed into the code running on the Arduino or whatever. When I did my first build (Artie Deco from Hardware Wars), SHADOW didn't have built-in tank mixing. It relied on the Sabertooth motor controllers to do the tank mixing for you. Since Artie uses regular R/C speed controllers that don't do that, I ended up having to code the tank mixing formula into it myself.

Thanks!

He is made with PETG

@@TheEebel Noice, what control system is he equipped with,

@@SLAVKINGRED He is using Kyber Control

@@TheEebel i see,