That's only with an automatic transmission. You can see that in my other video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bnyZioCuZqdgla8si=L08cokCVhCnMd0HU

@marcosr666 No the car has been pretty solid since doing this.

@NickSabella I didn't want to have to remove the intake but I guess I'll have to do it. Any plans for the car?

@@marcosr666 Removing the intake is definitely not as bad as it seems. I really just want to clean the car up. I'm going to walnut blast the valves, rewrap the car, redo the headliner, clean up the interior, and a few more odds and ends. I just really want this to be a nice car. Once I'm done, I might do a downpipe and tune, but it has quite a few miles on it so I'm unsure.

@NickSabella oh nice just make sure to do your timing chain and guides if you haven't already. My boost solenoid ended up being bad and I also found out my car has a stage 1 tune

@marcosr666 oh yeah timing chain and oil leaks were all the video before this one. I've done all of the maintenance at this point besides walnut blasting

@@jfuh14 amzn.to/49FJUUM But it's junk. You don't want it.

@@NickSabellaThx. On a separate note, are your 50/50 taillights on your white civic oem or aftermarket? I bought two different ebay ones and they both didn't fit.

@@jfuh14 they're ebay and they don't fit well

@@DanRebel-dh4uw it's a 1950 Hudson Super Six!

Great content btw this is very helpful

@MReliet it's still running as far as I know. I sold it earlier this year. I wasnt sure if rebuilding them was possible. Everything online said they would have to be replaced. Since I caught my knock early, and didn't find any metal in the oil pump, I figured it would be safe. Any potential metal would be minimal and filtered out in the first couple of oil changes. I put 9000 miles on it after the rebuild without any issues before I sold it. I can't remember where I found the manual. I think it was on some subie forum. I can look around for it and let you know if I find it. DM me on Instagram @ej6nicky

@@NickSabella thats awesome to hear, thank you, ill hit you up

@luiscamacho06 I wasnt comfortable making a tutorial on an engine I was unfamiliar with. This was never intended to be a tutorial.

@a.lattto angle grinder is the way to go if possible. On some of them, there isn't enough room to fit it and the sawzall is the only option

@ ty, I’ve been waiting to try it this week, since the grinder is all I have atm. I will lyk how it work out!

@@a.lattto i think the only one the grinder can't get all the way is the one closest to the wheel. Should be able to get the other ones with it

@ that’s the one for me 😩. Exactly like in this video. The last time I’ve checked, I think I might have just enough room for the blade. Going to cut between the lca & trailing arm. If that doesn’t work, I will cut the nut that’s welded in the back. I did do a practice cut earlier on the same bolt that’s off the car. I wanted to see how strong the bolt were n how long it will take to cut. I’ve cutted it in just 3 mins with a metal carbide wheel. So fingers crossed this’ll work. Ty again for he video, it gives me hope lol.🤞

Like a new exhaust manifold? No you don't need that. And no I haven't had any troubles with my swap.

@@NickSabellano the intake manifold with throttle body and stuff

@TripleJaysx3 oh yeah that makes sense. You only have to do that if you have a d16y8. The manual uses a 2 wire iacv and the auto has a 3 wire iacv. You can modify your auto manifold to accept the manual iacv, there are some write ups online. I'm not sure if the original throttle body will work if you leave the iacv unplugged. But any d series throttle body except the auto y8 and y7 throttle body will work and any b series throttle body will work.

@@NickSabellayeah I have a y7 so I should be good then appreciate it so much buddy

@TripleJaysx3 yes y7 auto and manual use the same iacv, tb, and manifold. Good luck with your swap and feel free to reach out with more questions. Cheers!

@@michaelheller4481 it's hard to see, but they go in when I put the main bearings in

@@notone4029 I think you'll be happy with the upcoming videos

Lol I'm glad you like it

Thanks Saoirse!

You're welcome man. Good luck with your swap!

You could undo the two bushing bolts at the end near the shifter and take the trans out with the shift linkages and shifter still attached.

@jordanwince4242 yeah I still have them. I can upload them and give you a link after work

@ Heck yea. Thanks homie.

@@BrewskyTCG github.com/nsabella/3d_printing Let me know if you have trouble downloading the files. I can get you other file formats too if you need them. I just uploaded stls for now

@@NickSabella Will do. I’m going to try tomorrow at work and let you know. Thanks again buddy! You’ve helped me with this swap big time

Its still going! It smokes after idling sometimes, but not always. Pretty sure its the valve stem seals because its intermittent and never smokes under boost. Plus I never replaced the valve guides so there's probably a little play in the valves. I also had an issue with my boost controller earlier this year and blew the head gasket. Slapped a new one in and it's been fine ever since.

@ajpetix correct! For proper stainless welds you need different wire and different gas

Look at the last 2 digits in the model number. If they're less than 50 it's manual. 50 and up is automatic. The manual also only has pins for 3 of the 4 plugs

@nismojdm5950 Hopefully you have some local meets near you. I met all of my car friends there. There are plenty of good people who love to wrench just like you and me!

JNC 010 17x9 +25