@@Nymphetamine2791 awesome :) thanks you!!!

Thank you :) ill do the top box shortly

I was going to service my ATTESA system with a fluid change and flush and replace some hoses so i figured I mightnas well replace the actuator while i had it taken apart and drained. I ended up not needimg sealant and its been good so far

Oh man, i used to...well i had a big diagram of all the vacuume lines. Ihad that all simplifed by my tuner when i got my new crate engine installed. Let me see if i can find the pic

So as it turns out, i still have those diagrams on my phone. I cant attach them here tho

@@robertsawyer89i would appreciate those diagrams if they are still available! 😊

So yeah thats a tough question bc rotaries run so hot in general. I will say this, however: no matter how hot it is outside or how hard I run my FD, ive never had an issue with overheating with the Koyo and fuctioning fans. The only times ive noticed higher temps is if i drive and park the car, but temps come right back down after i start it up and get the coolant flowing again.

@@robertsawyer89 Fair enough re rotaries and heat haha. Thanks for the reply, likely will go ahead with the koyo. All the best!

@@thomas54321blastoff thanks man! So i paid more attention today to give you some more useful objective info haha. On a nice cool day like today (low 60s) it never got above 83C, despite me running it a little harder on the freeway. On warmer days in the summer (when it gets in the 90s here) it will creep up to 95 before the fans kick on amd bring it down to 85. Ive never had an issue with it getting above 95 unless I shut it off and came back a few minutes later.

@@robertsawyer89 You're too kind! I'm in Australia and our summer is coming up where we're expecting 30c (~90f) temps regularly with some days cracking 40c(105f) and so I'm glad to hear your car is handling the warmer days with the help of the fans kicking on. I think it'll be a case of me going the Koyo and if coolant temps still are creeping too high, I'll have to bite the bullet and go for a full Vmount

Thats a good question, and the answer is: im not sure. Unfortunately its been a journey with my FD. I installed this intercooler before I found out my 13b was blown and needed to be replaced. I have since installed a new crate 13b. I never got a chance to drive my FD around with the old engine before and after this intercooler install. I wd say its a good option if you want to upgrade your current intercooler but want to retain some of the original set up and dont want to do something "drastic" like a V Mount. I think RightHandDrivePart.com still sells the Knights Intercooler which is a stock mount as well, but much thicker and cd make some fitment issues.

Thank for watching :) i got them here pinkustylestore.com/pinku-style-r32-gt-r-gts-4-attesa-ets-silicon-hose-kit/

Thanks man! I really enjoy making these videos. I got the pink hoses here: pinkustylestore.com/pinku-style-r32-gt-r-gts-4-attesa-ets-silicon-hose-kit/ I think Freddies Performance Garage has them too

I ended up going with the ARD high output ones. I believe I got it from RHD Japan www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-blue-fd3s.html

@@robertsawyer89 Thanks 😊

Yeah there is an O ring on the actuator itself. Not the transfercase housing however. That oring may be bad, or the actuator may be bad. The good news is that Nissan still makes that part new and its not terribly expensive.

@@robertsawyer89 isn’t the o ring on the actuator kind of part of the actuator sleeve? Or can you remove it? I prob just need a new o ring or to replace the actuator all together.

@@robertsawyer89 the actuator is fine I think since there is no loss of fluid in the rear reservoir and I do get front torque. It’s just the o ring I guess

@@str8upasian880 Yeah now that I think about it, you are right, the seal is on the actuator, but its one large boot with a raised part on one end that acts as a seal for the flange. It probably slides to some small degree with activation of the actuator and wears down over time. the boot on my old one wasnt cracked, but it was worn down when compared to the new one.

@@robertsawyer89 I’ll probably have to replace the whole actuator then. I really wasn’t trying to bleed the whole attesa system but I guess I have no choice.

Thanks man :) im still really new at making content like this, but Ill shoot in landscape from now on :)

Good to hear man! Yeah the VIN inspection was a big surprise for me too. BUT its getting sourted out :)

So it was a bit of a process the led me to replace the injectors. My FD wd die altogether after running for about 15 mins after it got to operating temp. Figured it was the coils, replaced them, wouldnt die anymore but idled really rough...ran ok-ish at throttle. I was origianlly just going to replace the rats nest with silicone hoses, but figured i might as well replace the injectors and regulator and pulse dampener while ihave all that shit torn apart. You got to figure, these are 25+ year old components at this point and some parts are going to be bad. Im glad i did bc my diffsers were broken and one injector was cracked. Its a bit of PITA to do, but i wd recommend doing the job to give yourself piece of mind and check that off the possible causes list.

@@robertsawyer89 got it. I just dropped like $1100 on the injectors, a new fuel pump, and fuel filter. Hopefully it does something...so far spark plugs and wires, power fc ECU, and a new map sensor is all I've tried to get this car to run properly.

@@wskyfox yeah i think its just something you have to do with these JDM imports. Who knows how long it sat at auction and the last time it got shown some love. Where did you get your Power FC from if you dont mind me asking? I order one from IR Performance back in October and it still hasnt come in yet :/

@@wskyfox i wd also replace all the vacuume solenoids in the rats nest while you are there too. You can get just about all of them from atkins rotary. I am by far no rotary expert, but sounds like a lot of issues at higher speeds are due to the sequential system not kicking is

Did you ever get a chance to solve your issue? I have the same exact problem. JDM import. Engine bogs anytime the engine sees positive manifold pressure. I think my secondaries might be sticking.