Merci

Hola, Gracias por el consejo. Empezaremos a trabajar en ello.

Hello, We sell second-hand starter wrenches! If you send us an e-mail via: [email protected], we can send it to you. And if you wait a little longer you can buy our own (new) starter wrench that will be in stock very soon.

18 mm +/- 1 mm 👍

"Lotta tra lingue germaniche"😂😂😂😂😂

with 100hp, it needs the downforce

It also fits on a 69 model. Even with the towbar 👍And, yes indeed the fuel sensor is also different.

he said he did put the bmw engine. theres an adapter kit to fit it to the original geatbox. check it out at sparrowautomotive

you can use the standard transmission, but it is recommended to install a LSD from Burton or the chinese version which is cheaper and just as good.

We apply the grease that is provided by the valeo-kit. 👍

You will probably know by now but just to say, last w/e I replaced the internals of the Oil Filler/Breather/Filter unit off my 1987 2CV Dolly bought 2 months ago. After just replacing the (perforated) exhaust cross box and fixing some leaking clamped joints, I found the nearside exhaust manifold gasket was blowing at the cylinder head. With wings and other engine bay parts removed to fit the replacement manifold kit (gaskets, studs, nuts, etc), I used the opportunity to refurbish it. This involves separating the seamed-together, brass Breather Top & Bottom Halves by grinding/filing around the seam until they split. This was done on recommendation of two 2CV specialists (ex-2CV City) near Bradford. My engine was covered in old oil and a malfunctioning Filler/Breather can seemingly cause pressure build up as both pistons reciprocate in/out of the crankcase void, forcing oil out of several possible joints. The kit I used was supplied by The 2CV Shop UK and to be honest, I struggled a bit to reassemble it. This was not helped by all the written instructions being in French only! A long time was spent translating, then viewing videos. The method used to secure the two body halves back together was via two clamp rings, one full, one necessarily split in two. With multiple clamp screws, it is not as neat or simple as the split-thread Burton one they have used on their videoed item, but did the job. I also ended up with a large sealing washer left over. The instruction photos seemed to show only two (one for the body's clamped joint seal, the other being the Filler Cap Seal) yet 3 were in the kit. Perhaps an error on my part, but despite no obvious place for it, it seems to function correctly - I hope! The small breather pipe (returning excess oil to the sump via the dipstick tube) on the lower half also had to be bent in by some 3mm to pass the ring over, onto the body, up to the flange. A risky operation, a small semicircle cut away inside the clamp ring being a better option imho. Sorry for the extended reply, but I also hope my experience might help others new to this repair. I found no source of help in English for this. Unlike me, BEFORE splitting, I remind those others to first MARK the TWO HALF BODIES axially to correctly realign them radially when clamping them back together. Despite me managing this, the short rubber hose would not reassemble to join the 2 opposing 8mm brass tubes. Their ends were too close together, and not in line, to allow it to. I made a new tube from 8mm bore soft silicone-type tubing, about 200mm long, forming it into a loop to indirectly join up the two short brass pipes. I made sure this loop top was below the brass drain tube body outlet.