Thanks for the nice comment. I am glad the video was helpful 👍

To open an app with a Routine: - at 2minutes 15seconds in the video where it is showing how to setup the "THEN" actions for the Routine - tap "+" below "Then" - scroll down and tap "Apps" - tap on "Open an app or do an app action" - tap on the app that you want to open - tap "Save" When you arrive at the location that you specified in the Routine's "IF" statement the app will open. Note you do not actually need to use Bixby to open the app ... it is all done when you setup the "Routine".

@@Helpful-Stuff I understand that. That's what your video shows. I'm taking about saying "bixby, open gate" and then it will call...

Thanks 👍

Thanks for the great comment👍I am glad the video was helpful and showed you that the petrol engine does not idle all the time the car is in READY mode ... especially if you turn the heating off. I am just about to go and wash & charge my car which really needs a good clean anyway because the roads & weather are filthy at this time of year ... and while doing it the battery is recharged. A double win 👍👍 Like you I also carry a NOCO jump starter ... just in case!!!

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video was helpful 👍

Thanks. I am glad the video was helpful. Enjoy your new GoPro.

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the videos was helpful 👍😀

I have owned Toyotas since 2005 (LandCruiser, Yaris Mark 3 and Yaris Mark 4). The LandCruiser and Yaris Mark 3 were both very reliable. The Yaris Mark 4 is not reliable - mine would not start when 10months old with 6000miles on the clock and after just one day without use. What I find particularly disappointing is that Toyota GB absolutely insists that it is a customer problem ... it isn't a customer problem its Toyota's decision to use a Mutlu 12V battery. If Toyota GB had handled the problems better I would consider buying another Toyota but they have handled it appallingly - I will not buy another Toyota. It may be worth taking your car to Halfords or other independent local garage and asking them to fit a Yuasa battery. I have read that this has fixed the problem for some people. If my car fails to start again I will be getting a Yuasa battery installed. The other option is to use a solar trickle charger as shown in this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYTJmp5qrt6LnNE

Sorry it didn't work on an Apple device. Unfortunately I don't have any Apple devices to allow me to investigate.

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video was helpful. Enjoy your new GoPro 👍

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video was helpful 👍

Thanks for comment. I am glad the video was helpful. Enjoy your new GoPro 👍

Thanks for the comment. I am glad my videos have been helpful. My dealer has told me that solar charger works for most people. I use my solar charger whenever my Yaris does not get used for 24hours or more. My routines have changed a bit and now my car only very rarely gets a day parked so at the moment I do not use my solar charger very often. If you get a new battery from a non-Toyota garage you may want to consider buying a Yuasa battery. From what I have read they have a bigger capacity and are a better quality battery than the Mutlu that is fitted by Toyota. If my car fails to start again I will be going to a local garage and asking them to fit a Yuasa battery. My 12V battery maintenance routine (which has prevented another failure to start for the last year) is: (1) every 7 to 10 days wash and recharge my car kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZmQfWOAl8eEi8k (2) if I don't use my Yaris for 24 hours or more I fit a solar trickle charge kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYTJmp5qrt6LnNE connected to the ODB port using a cable fitted for free by my dealer kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWmwnHmLhcuXrLM (3) I keep a NOCO GB20 under the passenger seat in case the above fails (4) I monitor the 12V battery voltage every time I start the car using a voltmeter plugged into the accessory socket. This video shows how to monitor the 12V battery voltage and not the recharging voltage from the DC-DC converter. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zp-8laGEi8ypgKs It's a bit of a pain doing this ... but not as much of a pain as having to jump start my Yaris ... so I think it is worth it 😀👍

@@Helpful-Stuff That's right, a vehicle should actually be able to stand for a few days without having to be used. My vehicle, which was originally intended for the Danish market, has a Varta battery installed (52 Ah if I'm not mistaken). Some time ago I had a thermal protection cover fitted for the starter battery, but it only helps to a limited extent. A charging session is currently due every other day at the latest.

I believe that the Mutlu battery factory fitted in my Yaris (2022) is 35Ah. The alternative Yuasa battery is 45Ah. Obviously the extra 10Ah in the Yuasa battery should mean that a Yaris can be parked and not used for a few extra days before the battery is unable to start the car. Your Corolla Varta battery at 52Ah is bigger than either the Mutlu or Yuasa batteries that can be fitted in a Yaris. If you are having to recharge every other day then it might be worth replacing the 12V battery. 12V batteries don't last forever (4 or 5 years) and it should save you the inconvenience of charging every other day. I had a LandCruiser and it failed to start when the LandCruiser was 12 years old with the original factory fitted batteries. (The LandCruiser has two 12V batteries). The AA man told me he was amazed that the 12V batteries had lasted that long. He jump started me and told me that I MUST get new batteries immediately because the AA would not come out and jump start me again!!!

@@Helpful-Stuff Unfortunately, the only option for my vehicle is to increase to 54 Ah, but that's better than nothing. A new battery will certainly help.

Glad the video was helpful 😀👍Enjoy your new GoPro.

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video helped you to change the battery in your RAV key fob 😀👍

I have made a number of videos about the Yaris 12V problem and I get a LOT of comments which have given me a good overview of the problem. I would classify myself as UK average annual mileage driver and it happened to me. I have also had a comment from somebody who said he is a high mileage owner who does a lot of motorway mileage but his car failed to start. My conclusion is that the problem is most likely to happen to low mileage owners but it can happen to ANY owner. I have also checked and the solar panel does generate current even in overcast conditions. The Service Manager at my dealer has told me that the solar trickle charger does resolve the problem for most owners. My dealer helps out further by fitting the ODB cable free of charge. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWmwnHmLhcuXrLM I have been very impressed by the way my dealer has handled the 12V battery problem. I am totally unimpressed by the way Toyota GB are handling the situation. Toyota Poland have admitted the problem and have rolled out new test equipment and procedures and will replace any 12V battery that fails the new tests. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3nXmGtnoLJgfLc Toyota GB have allowed some dealers to get away with charging customers around £150 to recharge and test their 12V batteries. Because of the Polish situation I know that the tests that UK dealers do is worthless - the test equipment and procedures will not identify a faulty battery. So some customers have paid £150 to get their battery tested and to be told their battery is healthy when it is not healthy. Toyota GB are badly damaging the Toyota reputation for reliability.

I would also ask a local garage to fit a CTEK lead under the rear seats if I had a mains socket somewhere near my car parking space. So, I am reliant on my 12V battery maintenance routines to prevent another failure to start... - every 7 to 10 days wash and recharge (as shown in this video) - if I don't use my Yaris for 24 hours or more I fit a solar trickle charge kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYTJmp5qrt6LnNE connected to the ODB port using a cable fitted for free by my dealer kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWmwnHmLhcuXrLM - I keep a NOCO GB20 under the passenger seat in case the above fails I monitor the 12V battery voltage every time I start the car using a voltmeter plugged into the accessory socket. This video shows how to monitor the 12V battery voltage and not the recharging voltage from the DC-DC converter. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zp-8laGEi8ypgKs I made this video with the factory fitted 12V Mutlu battery after it had failed to start my car when the car was only 10months old with 6,000miles on the clock and after only one day parked. 5 months after this Toyota GB agreed to change my 12V battery. Unfortunately my new 12V battery is another Mutlu battery. Its interesting that the new Mutlu battery gives voltages about 0.5V higher than the voltage shown in the video which I believe shows that my original factory fitted battery was degraded after a single failure to start. If I suffer another failure to start I will immediately get a new 12V battery. However, this time I will go to a local garage and get a Yuasa battery fitted. From what I have read this is a much better battery and people have said it resolves the Yaris' failure to start problem.

I finally got backup working. It took about 3 weeks before it started working. Unfortunately, I have no idea why it suddenly started working. I was trying all sorts of things ... including your suggestion of putting the watch on charge when it was already fully charged. Backup started working on a day when I had run out of ideas of things to try ... but it just started working for some reason!!! If I knew what I had dome I would have made a video to pass on the tip of how to get backup to start. The good news is that once you get backup started it works reliably each morning when I charge my watch. The only days when it does not work are days when I have forgotten to take it out of Essential mode before putting it on charge.

Thanks for your comment. I have really mixed emotions about my Yaris. On the one hand I think it is the best car I have ever owned ... I love the fantastic fuel economy and all the gadgets ... but on the other hand it is the worst car I have ever bought because a 10 month old car should not fail to start after one day parked. One of the reasons for producing the videos is that anybody who is considering buying a Yaris Mark 4 should be aware of the problem and then they can decide whether or not to buy a Yaris. The other reason is to help people who have bought a Yaris to manage the battery and (hopefully) avoid more failures to start. Toyota agreed to change my 12V battery so I am now on my 2nd Mutlu battery. I have decided that if my car fails to start again I will go to a local garage or Halfords and get a Yuasa battery installed. I have read that this battery is a much better quality battery with a bigger capacity and resolves the failure to start problem. I hope you enjoy your Mazda 2 and the £3,000 you have saved 💷😀👍

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video is helpful and I hope it enables you to setup your elderly patients voicemail.

EE has good 4G coverage ... 87% geographic coverage which covers 99% of the population. But it is not 100% and unfortunately you must be in the 13% of the UK that does not have an EE 4G signal. I found this web page www.bt.com/help/bt-halo/getting-set-up/tips-for-using-hybrid-connect which says ... "If your Hybrid Connect can't pick up a 4G signal contact us on 0800 800 150" I am not sure what if anything BT can do if you phone them ... but its worth a phone call. It would be useful if you could leave another comment to let me and anybody else with the same problem know what BT say. Thanks 👍

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video was helpful. 👍

Your comment is the second comment reporting that the Yaris 12V battery problem also happens in the Mazda 2 Hybrid. This isn't really much of a surprise because as you say they are the same car re-badged. All EVs and Hybrids use a small 12V battery and you will find discussion about car's failing to start for ALL car manufacturers. These discussions are generally about cars that have been left for 2 or 3 weeks in an airport car park and the small 12V battery has gone flat. However, the problem with the Toyota Yaris/ Mazda 2 is that the problem can happen after just ONE day parked. It is most likely to happen to owners who do low annual milage but it can also happen to high mileage drivers. However, it happened to me when I do UK average mileage after one day parked when the car was only 10 months old. Toyota GB have decided to blame customers for not driving their cars enough. However, if they bothered to look at the mileage of cars reporting the problem they would realise that Toyota have made a big mistake with the choice of 12V battery because the problem also happens to average and even high mileage drivers. I get really angry that a company with a good reliability reputation like Toyota is sticking its head in the sand and blaming customers when it is a Toyota problem. The logic of your thinking is correct ... in fact it is similar to the approach taken by Hyundai and Kia. Both of these manufacturers monitor the status of the 12V battery all the time (even when parked) and if the voltage drops too low it disconnects the 12V system. This protects the 12V battery and ensures it can start the car ... but you will need to use the mechanical key to get in the car and then press the "12V reset" button. Fiddly but a LOT easier than lifting the bonnet and jump starting the car which you have to do in a Toyota. I owned a Yaris Mark 3 2018 to 2022 and this started reliably even during COVIUD lockdowns when it was only used once per week. I then bought a Yaris Mark 4 and that failed to start after one day parked when only 10 months old. 5 months after my car failed to start Toyota finally agreed to change my 12V battery. However, the service manager told me that I have got exactly the same Mutlu battery that was factory fitted and failed to start my car when it was only 10months old. So I have zero confidence in this new battery lasting any longer than 10 months. I have read that the Yuasa battery is a much better battery and people report that this battery solves the problem. So I plan to go to a local garage or a Halfords and get a Yuasa battery fitted. I guess that the Yuasa battery would also solve the problem in a Mazda 2 as well. In a lot of ways the Yaris Mark 4 is the best car I have ever bought but unfortunately it is also the worst car I have ever bought. And because of the absolutely appalling way that Toyota GB are handling this problem I will never again purchase a Toyota ... or a re-badged Toyota!

@@Helpful-Stuff Thank you so much for taking the time to give additional context and the full story. I have been reading around about the problem but your one KZbin comment provided more than I could find scattered across several sites. I'll put a call in to my dealer to see if they can do anything under warranty but, based on your experience, I'm not that hopeful. I guess getting a NOCO GB40 or something might be the way to go. I do like the car though. My only concerns with it so far have been the battery and a couple of problems that I believe also affect the Toyota (again, not surprisingly - in fact, I found out about them on the Yaris owners forum). The only reason that I bought the Mazda version, BTW, is because the dealer (who is both a Toyota and a Mazda dealer) was offering the Mazda significantly cheaper. So, I was able to get a better spec Mazda for less than the price of the bottom spec Toyota. Anyway, the problems/annoyances are: 1) The driving speed sign reader reads the speed limit from roadside signs (with a greater or lesser degree of accuracy) but, in the background, the car can get stuck "thinking" in kmh, despite what the speedometer etc are set to. So, if it reads a 30MPH sign, the car will interpret that as a 30kmph limit and display the red "you're going to fast" symbol from about 20mph upwards. So, I've just had to switch off that warning. There was no sign of a fix for this the last time I checked. 2) If you don't want the lane monitoring ans steering "nudge", it has to be switched off every time the car starts instead of having an option that can be remembered across different car starts (like in three other cars I have experience of). It's more of an annoyance than anything, but I live in an area with lots of minor roads, few dual carriageways and no motorways (where the feature might be useful). As often as not, the "nudge" is annoying, if not dangerous, on the roads near me and I'd like to be able to get it to default to "off" rather than "on". I think Toyota's line if they regard it as disabling a safety feature (despite the fact other manufacturers allow it) and so won't change it. As I said, I regard the "nudge" as dangerous, so I don't agree with Toyota.

Your experience with a warranty claim from Mazda may be different from the Toyota experience. It would be really useful if you can post a comment with an update after you have talked to your dealer. I have bought a NOCO GB20 (not a GB40) which I keep under the passenger seat just in case I need it! I have not had a failure to start since I bought my GB20 so I have not got any personal experience of jump starting a Yaris with a GB20 but from everything I have read the GB20 should do the job. The driving sign reader most of the time reads signs accurately ... but as you say it is not 100% accurate!!! However, as you say the speeding alert sometimes gets confused between kmph and mph and then gets stuck for a while until it manages to sort itself out and get back to mph. I owned a Mark 3 Yaris 2018 to 2022 before I bought my Mark 4 Yaris in 2022 and exactly the same bug happened in the Mark 3 Yaris. So this bug has been around since at least 2018 ... I am sure eventually it will be fixed but I would not hold your breath!!! However, the good news is that I have found a way of reducing the number of times it happens significantly... About a year ago I decided to try using the intelligent cruise control (DRCC) on A roads and B roads as well as motorways. I now turn the DRCC for every single drive. I find it particularly useful on A roads where the speed limit changes from 40 to 50 then to national speed limit then back to 40 etc. It's less useful on B road because of the bends but there are some B roads near me that regularly have speed checks so I get into the routine of always using the DRCC on these roads as well. I have got the head up display and the DRCC info is displayed in the HUD so I do not have to look down at the dashboard to check the DRCC speed. I think the HUD is a fantastic feature ... I want all my future cars to have a HUD - it is so much quicker, easier and above all safer to monitor things like DRCC in my line of sight in the windscreen. Anyway back to the mph/kmph bug ... after using DRCC on every single drive for a while I realised that I had NOT had any problems with the mph / kmph bug for a long time. So I tried a few trips without the DRCC and I started to see the mph / kmph confusion bug again!!! So it seems that turning the DRCC on reduces the frequency of mph / kmph confusion bug. It still happens but it is extremely rare - about once every 6 months. I haven't tried this ... but if you do not want to use DRCC - I think that all you need to do is to turn DRCC on so that "Radar Ready" is displayed. I don't think you will need to actually set a speed so that DRCC is active. Obviously you will have to turn DRCC on at the start of each drive. However, its a button on the steering wheel so its quick and easy. Lane monitoring .... I have set my car up so that I do NOT get any steering wheel vibration at all. On the dashboard go to the settings cogwheel and scroll to the right to select "LTA" press and hold down the OK button to see the options. Alert Type can be set to either buzzer or steering wheel vibration - I set this to buzzer. Alert sensitivity I tried this on HIGH but it is annoying so I set this to STANDARD. Sway warning can be set to High, Standard or Low - I use the middle setting - Standard. These settings are maintained when the car is switched off. They are even maintained when the 12V battery is changed! I hope these tips work on the Mazda 2 🤞

@@Helpful-Stuff Thanks for all the tips. I will try them out. 👍 With the lane assist, it's not so much the vibration that bothers me, it's the fact that the car actually alters the steering. e.g. in a town, I pulled out to pass a parked car - nothing around, no need to indicate. As my wheels crossed the white line to give good clearance from the parked car, the system tried to steer me to the left slightly - back towards the stationary vehicle I was trying to avoid! It is just a "nudge" and easy to steer out of, but it's not ideal. For what it's worth, the car was absolutely fine today. The flat battery happened yesterday. After getting it started yesterday, I left the car in Ready mode for about an hour and I also took it for a good run afterwards. This morning, after a night where it got down to -4°C, there was no hint that the battery was struggling. So far so good, but who knows what tomorrow, or the day after, will bring? As for the HUD, yep, it's great. The only minor (very minor) gripe I have with it is that there is no horizontal position adjustment with it. There is plenty of vertical adjustment, but horizontal is fixed. I'm quite tall, and I sit with my seat right back. If I move my head a little to the left, the left side of the projected image gets cut off slightly. It's just a matter of relative angles versus the edge of the projection recess, but if I could nudge the display to the right slightly, it wouldn't happen. Because I usually switch off the lane assist, there is nothing being displayed on the right-side of the HUD anyway. I will mention the battery to my dealer and report back if there is anything worth reporting. Unfortunately, the Mazda, and Toyota dealer in this area is Arnold Clark. Arnold Clark is not always the best at customer service. Everything is centralised and they have the typical attitude of a big company that neither knows nor particularly cares about their customers or individual cases that might cost them money or be inconvenient to them. i.e. they are very resistant to investigating, helping or even being human a lot of the time, especially if what you ask about isn't on a pre-determined customer service procedure protocol. At least, that's my experience. If I call and there is some sort of service information from Mazda, they will likely respond to it. If not, they will probably fob me off. As a side point, Arnold Clark keeps moving which showroom is where, but until recently both Toyota and Mazda were in the same showroom. They are currently right across the road from each other and they both use the same service centre, with the same staff. So, I don't know how much difference being Mazda versus Toyota will make. I've had several Toyotas and Mazdas over the years and it is quite interesting having this Toyota with Mazda badges on it. It is absolutely a Toyota in looks and character. The Citroen C1, Peugeot 107/108 are all Toyota Aygos, but are different enough to feel like slightly different cars. The Fiat 124 Spider is basically a Mazda MX5, but has enough differences to make it have its own character. The Mazda 2 Hybrid really is just a Toyota with different badges, a Mazda logo on the display and slight trim variations. There is no major change change in body shape or character at all, and very little in the way of anything Mazda specific about it. I don't have a problem with any of that, but it is quite interesting.

Lane assist ... when I first got the car I thought it was "tramlining" a lot and then I learnt that the car was actually trying to nudge me back into lane. I have described it to friends as like being a learner and having another invisible hand on the steering wheel just gently trying to correct the steering ... but I do agree that sometimes its corrections are actually wrong. However, it is so gentle and easy to over ride that I decided that I had to learn to live with it. I also figured that if there is one situation in the years that I own the car where the car is correct and I am wrong and if that saves me from having an accident then it is worth it. I am glad your battery seems to have recovered from the failure to start. I have only had one failure to start and Toyota "recharged and tested" my battery and told me it was healthy ... but I think it had actually been degraded by the failure to start. I purchased a voltmeter for the accessory socket and made this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zp-8laGEi8ypgKs In the mean time I was emailing Toyota GB to complain that a 10month old car failed to start. After 5 months of emailing they instructed my local dealer to change my 12V battery without doing any further tests on the old battery. The Service Manager told me that my factory fitted Mutlu battery was replaced with a new battery but it was exactly the same spec as the Mutlu battery that had failed to start my car. My voltmeter showed that the new Mutlu battery voltages were around 0.5V higher than the voltages shown in the video with old Mutlu battery that had failed to start my car. So my old Mutlu battery was degraded because the measured voltage was lower ... it was not 100% healthy and should have been changed. However, Toyota GB's 12V test equipment and procedures do not reveal this. So, if my car fails to start again with the new battery I will assume that the 12V battery has been degraded and go to a local garage and ask them to fit a Yuasa 12V battery. In order to avoid another failure to start I have got a battery maintenance routine: - every 7 to 10 days I wash the car in READY mode to recharge the battery kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZmQfWOAl8eEi8k - if I do not use the car for 24 hours or longer I use a solar trickle charger which was recommended by my dealer kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYTJmp5qrt6LnNE My dealer fitted the cable free of charge kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWmwnHmLhcuXrLM - I monitor the battery voltage using an accessory socket voltmeter - I carry a NOCO GB20 just in case .... I should not need to do this for a car that is still less than 2 years old ... but if it saves me from having another failure to start then it is worth it. I have found my local dealer (not Arnold Clark) have been extremely good with this battery issue. Their recommended solution is the solar trickle charger and they even fitted the cable free of charge. This was why I decided to complain to Toyota GB rather than my dealer. It's a Toyota issue because they have decided to factory fit a poor quality Mutlu battery and there is very little that Toyota dealers can do about it. Good luck for your discussions with Arnold Clark.

Thanks for the comment. I struggled as well ... which was why I made the video. Enjoy your new GoPro. 👍

A few months after I made this video I got a notification to say that I must migrate to the new "MyToyota" app. The video shows that I had Remote Start Climate Control in the old "MyT" app and I also had this functionality in the new "MyToyota" app ... so the new app does have the capability to remote start the car. I have used remote start a couple of times over the last few days when it has been cold overnight! I think that the app only offers you features and functionality that are available with your specific car. So my best guess is that if the new "MyToyota" app is not giving you the option to remote start your climate control then this functionality is not available with your car. If you believe that you should have Remote Start capability in the app I would contact your dealer.

Thanks for the Super Thanks 👍 It is really interesting that your hybrid health showed a problem with the 12V battery which the dealer said is "normal". If the test showed there is a problem then it should be fixed especially in such a new car. What's the point in testing if the dealer then just ignores the test result and does not fix the problem??? Also, given that dealer must know that there is a problem with the 12V battery in a Yaris Mark 4 it seems bizarre that they ignore a problem reported by the Hybrid test. I would be really interested if you get a new Yuasa battery from a Toyota dealer. Based on my experience, I think that if the replacement is done under the Toyota warranty then a Toyota dealer will have to fit a Mutlu battery. My 12V battery was replaced under warranty. The Service Manager told me that I got exactly the same battery that was factory fitted. Since this battery failed to start then car when it was only 10 months old with 6,000miles on the clock and one day without use I have zero confidence that the new Multu battery will last longer than 10 months. If the new battery fails to start the car then I am going to go to a local garage and ask them to fit a Yuasa battery. I think this is the best way to ensure that I get a Yuasa battery rather than a Mutlu battery. However, I am doing a number of "12V battery maintenance" tasks to try and extend the life of my new Mutlu battery... (1) Weekly Recharge + Car Wash. I turn the car on to READY mode while I wash the car every 7 to 10 days. This gives the 12V battery a weekly top up as per Toyota's recommendation mag.toyota.co.uk/coronavirus-toyota-hybrid-car-maintenance/ This video includes some tips on how to combine the wash & charge: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZmQfWOAl8eEi8k (2) If I do not use the car for a day or more I always use a solar trickle charger to maintain the 12V battery charge kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYTJmp5qrt6LnNE (3) I monitor the 12V battery voltage using a cheap and easy to install voltmeter in the accessory socket so that I can spot early if the voltage starts to drop. This video shows when to read the voltage so that you are seeing the battery voltage and not the recharging voltage. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zp-8laGEi8ypgKs If the voltmeter shows that the voltage is dropping then I hope that I will be able to get a new Yuasa fitted before my car fails to start. 🤞 It would be really interesting for me and other viewers if you could post an update after you have been to your dealer to let us know what the dealer said and if they replaced your 12V battery with a Mutlu or Yuasa battery. Thanks 😀

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video was helpful. Enjoy your new GoPro 👍

Thanks for the nice comment about my video. I have no idea what a dealership would charge to change a key fob battery but it is obviously a LOT cheaper to change the battery yourself. I am glad the video helped you to change the battery and save some money 👍

​@Helpful-Stuff Toyota charge £15 for two fobs unless you have the service plan, in which case it's free, and they replace the batteries every 2 years.

I assume that £15 includes the cost of the batteries which I suppose is OK if you really do not like doing things like this ... but hopefully the video shows that its actually quite easy to save £15 and do it yourself for the cost of the batteries.

Thanks for the great comment 👍I am glad the video was helpful.

I am sorry to hear about your husband. I am glad my video was able to help you to change your key fob battery.

Thanks for the comment. I am glad my video was helpful. Good luck with your GoPro .... they are really good cameras once you are familiar with how they work!!!

From all the comments and a lot of reading I think the problem is the poor quality Mutlu battery that is factory fitted. After 5 months of complaining to Toyota GB I got a replacement battery. Unfortunately it is another Mutlu. My original battery lasted 10 months 6,000 miles and after 1 day without use my car would not start. I have zero confidence that my new battery will last any longer. If my car fails to start again I will go to a local garage and ask them to fit a Yuasa battery. I have read a lot of comments from people who have changed to a Yuasa and solved the problem. I do not drive the car for 1 hour. I wash my car with the car in READY mode. I think this is actually more effective at charging the 12V battery than driving the car for 1 hour. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZmQfWOAl8eEi8k As I mentioned above, I have got a new Mutlu battery since I made this video. I am now seeing voltages in the range 12.0V to 12.5V. Yesterday I drove 130miles non-stop. Today I was expecting to see a voltage of 12.4V or maybe 12.5V when I started the car but instead I saw 12.0V ... so over 3 hours driving the day before and the 12V battery was at the lowest voltage that I see. However, the day after a car wash + recharge in READY mode I normally see 12.3V or 12.4V. So my conclusion is turning the car on for 1 hour and letting it just sit in PARK is the best way to charge the 12V battery. Washing the car passes the time while the car is recharging. Wow a 14month delivery wait ... I ordered in 2022 an Excel with Tech pack and I "only" had to wait 9 months !!! I think the cameras will add to the battery drain but the root cause of the problem is the 12V battery.

A 3 month old Yaris failed to start!!! That makes my 10 month old car that failed to start look like a veteran!!! My Yaris Mark 3 did not suffer from the problem. It started reliably from 2018 to 2022 even during the COVID lockdown. My Yaris Mark 4 failed to start when only 10months old after a single day without use. The Yaris Mark 4 was launched in 2020 so since its now 2024 I think this indicates that Toyota have zero interest in fixing the problem. Unbelievable for a brand with a reputation for building reliable cars. I have a good overview of the problem because of all the comments beneath my videos. The problem is most likely to occur for low mileage users who do not use their car for several days. However, I do UK average mileage and it happened to my car after just one day parked. I have also had a comment from a high mileage driver who experienced the problem. So it can happen to any Yaris ... but it is most likely to happen to low mileage owners. Toyota GB have told dealers to blame customers for not driving their car enough. However, salesmen will not tell a low mileage customer that the Yaris is not suitable for them ... is this mis-selling??? I was blamed for not driving my car enough but I do around 8,000mile per year ... so this means that a Yaris is not suitable for any owner doing UK average mileage!!! One of the comments from a Polish viewer explained that Toyota Poland have admitted the problem exists. They have rolled out new test equipment and procedures to all Polish Toyota dealers and if a battery fails the new tests then it is replaced under warranty. motoryzacja.interia.pl/samochody-uzywane/porady/news-kupila-nowke-za-100-tys-zl-auto-nie-odpala-wiec-do-pracy-cho,nId,7305589 UK dealers do not seem to have the new test equipment or procedures so if Toyota offer to recharge and test your battery do NOT trust the results. I was told my battery was healthy when it failed to start. I complained to Toyota GB and 5 months later after a LOT of emails I got a new battery. I keep an eye on my 12V battery voltage and I could see that the new battery gave readings about 0.5V higher than my 10 month old battery. This indicates that my 10 month old battery was not healthy ... it wasn't totally damaged but it certainly wasn't 100% healthy and should have been changed when my car failed to start. Around April Toyota GB issued a service bulletin which gave details of cars where the 12V battery could be changed without needing to test the old battery. I suspect your car was built after this bulletin but it may be worth asking your dealer to check if your car is on this or any subsequent service bulletins. My dealer has been extremely helpful and fitted the solar trickle charger cable for free. But some comments have told me about dealers that are charging over £100 to recharge and test the battery. A complete rip off ... especially because the experience from Poland shows that UK dealers need new test equipment for accurate results. As you can probably tell the whole situation makes me very angry. It also frustrating because if you forget about the 12V battery problem my Yaris Excel with Tech pack is the best car I have ever bought!!! ... but with the 12V battery problem its the worst car I have ever bought.

I know that there are other Toyotas that have the same problem. However, I obviously focus on the Yaris because I own one and my videos are based on my own personal experience. For a brand with such a strong reliability reputation I find it unbelievable that Toyota GB just do not seem to care about the damage this is doing to the brand.

Yes you do need to keep the ethernet cable connected to both devices. This means that both devices need to be reasonably close together if you are using the supplied cable. However, you can buy longer ethernet cables. Ethernet cables can be up to 100m long ... which should be long enough for most houses!

I don't have any Apple computers that I can use to test. I hope somebody else will see you comment and reply ...

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video was helpful 👍

Have a quick look at this page about Digital Voice www.bt.com/broadband/digital-voice In the FAQ at the bottom... Q If I don’t currently have a Broadband connection in my home, how will I be able to make voice calls? A We’re currently working on different solutions to keep people who have no Broadband connected. We’ll be sure to let you know well in advance what your options are. Rest assured, you won’t be left without a home phone service and you won't pay more than you do today. This question is not precisely your situation because you do have a broadband connection to your home but its associated with another telephone line ... and that telephone line has already been migrated to Digital Voice. However, this question is relevant to your other telephone line that is a landline only with no broadband ... for this situation BT's public position as stated in this answer is "we're currently working on it ..." !!! So, no there still does not appear to be a solution for you landline which is not associated with broadband. Note that it does say "... you won't pay more than you do today". So whatever technical solution BT come up with it should not cost you any more money 👍 The deadline to migrate all customers to Digital Voice has slipped from December 2025 to January 2027. So, BT have more time to work on a solution for landlines with no broadband like your second telephone line. So don't expect BT to come up with a solution this year!!!!

Thank you! Much appreciated.​@@Helpful-Stuff

I have owned Toyota's since 2005 and I wish I could argue against you and convince you to buy a Toyota but I totally understand what you are saying. The only thing I will say is that all Hybrids and EVs have a small 12V battery. There is no starter motor in a Hybrid or EV - the 12V battery only needs to provide enough current to switch the computers on so the 12V battery can be quite small. If you Google you will find that a lot of Hybrids and EVs have complaints about cars not starting ... the typical scenario is when returning from a 2 week holiday. The problem with the Toyota Yaris is that there are so many people complaining that their car will not start because the 12V battery is flat after a day or so without use. My own car was 10 months old with 6,000miles on the clock and was parked and not used for ONE day and then would not start. I believe the solution is quite simple ... change the factory fit Mutlu battery for a Yuasa battery fitted by Halfords or other non-Toyota garage. I have read a lot of comments from people who have solved the problem with the Yuasa battery. I am on my second Mutlu battery (in a 2 year old car) and if the voltage starts to drop I will get a Yuasa battery fitted at a local garage. I do not understand why Toyota GB seem to be intent on blaming the customer when it is their own decision to use the Mutlu battery that is the problem. I think in the long run this will damage Toyota's reputation for building reliable cars and affect their sales & revenues.

Thanks for the comment. I am glad the video was helpful 👍

Yes 👍 Hybrids do not have an alternator (that charges the 12V battery in a petrol/diesel car). Hybrids have a DC-DC converter which reduces the high voltage from the traction battery down to a lower voltage that can be used to recharge the 12V battery and power lights, media system, wipers etc. In a petrol/diesel car an alternator can charge the 12V battery faster when the petrol/diesel engine is above idling speed. This is why if you get a flat battery in a petrol/diesel car it is a good idea to take the car for a drive to let the alternator give the 12V battery a good charge. In a hybrid the DC -DC converter charges the 12V battery at the same speed whether or not the petrol engine is on or off and if the petrol engine is on the petrol engine can be idling. So my Yaris can be stationary in READY mode and I can wash it for 1 hour and the 12V battery will be charged exactly the same as if I drove the car for 1 hour. This means I am not putting any miles on the car and I have a nice clean car 👍😃

Thanks for the comment. Very interested to read that Toyota GB are sourcing a different battery to fix the problem. Toyota GB agreed to change my 12V battery under warranty but they changed it for a new Mutlu battery ... the same battery that was factory fitted when my car was built. So I have zero confidence that this battery will last much longer than the factory fitted 12V battery. I have read a lot of comments from people who have gone to Halfords or another non-Toyota garage and asked for a Yuasa battery to be fitted to their Yaris. All but one of these comments have said that this has resolved the problem. So if my car fails to start again I am going to get a Yuasa battery. If you have an ignition key then I recommend that you NEVER use accessory (ACC) position. In this position the 12V battery is powering systems like the media system but the 12V battery is NOT being recharged which means that there is a chance that the poor quality Multlu 12V battery may run out of charge and you may not be able to start your car. The key will work exactly the same as push "start" button. Start your car as normal. I have never had a key in a Hybrid car but I assume that you twist the key to the START position and then release it so that the key is in the ON position while you are driving. The important thing is that the READY light must be displayed on the dashboard ... this confirms that the Hybrid system is "ready" but it also shows that the 12V battery is being rechanged from the big traction battery. I sometimes wash my car at dusk and the car automatically turns the lights on. Personally I don't worry about this: - I trust that Toyota's engineering teams will have designed the DC-DC converter so that it can supply enough current to charge the 12V battery and run the other electrical systems (lights, wipers etc at the same time) - on many Yaris models the lights are all LED which use about 90% less electricity than old halogen bulbs so when the lights come on it isn't a massive load on the DC-DC converter. The Yaris "fail to start" problem is caused by the poor quality Mutlu battery used by Toyota. It's nothing to do with the push button or key starting. So I think that your dealer is wrong ... I think your car is as likely to fail to start as a push button start Yaris. I have had comments under my videos from high mileage owners as well as low mileage owners. I classify myself as "average" mileage and it happened to my car at 10months old with 6,000miles on the clock after just ONE day parked and not used. So a failure to start can happen to anybody but I believe it is more likely to happen to low mileage owners. I suspect that this is not because of the low mileage but more to do with the fact that low mileage owners may not use their cars very often and they are left parked and not started for many days. Many Yaris owners use a solar trickle charger to avoid the problem. My dealer recommended this so I have bought one and made this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYTJmp5qrt6LnNE This video shows the free cable fitting that my dealer did which makes it a lot easier to plug the solar charge in... kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWmwnHmLhcuXrLM I agree that sales people should warn low mileage customers ... but they don't because the only thing that they are interested in is their commission ... sorry I am old and cynical!!!

@@Helpful-Stuff Agree about the sales people, they lied to me about the one previous owner. I caught them out as the new sales boy left the log book unattended and I saw the previous owner was Hertz. Unfortunately I'd already payed for it and sorted out the insurance. I told them to their face they'd been lying to me when the other senior salesman had told me it had one previous private owner an older lady. And according to DVLA it hadn't been taxed for a year. How can you trust these people when they lie blatantly. Just hope the car will be OK. The service person I talked to said they could fit me a cable just like in your video for free if I need it to use a solar charger. He said the problem seems to be with the push button models, not sure if mine has a different battery. And Toyota are fitting a different battery which should sort the problem, fingers crossed. Your video showing the cable and using the solar charger was very useful. I was thinking how is that going to work, would need the bonnet open maybe, which wouldn't be very practical. I'm using my car mostly everyday just quite a lot of short journeys since covid. This wasn't a problem with my old 11 Year old Yaris petrol only engine, still on original battery. Just worried my new hybrid car may die when i leave at the airport for 2 wks next year

@Helpful-Stuff One other way to conserve power is to switch off keyless entry if you have it. I had it switched off when I took delivery as my previous car didn't have it.

@paulstanden8743 I agree that turning keyless entry off will reduce the load on the 12V battery when my Yaris is parked. However, I was reluctant to turn off features and functionality that I have paid for to reduce the load on the battery... my focus is therefore on how to ensure that my 12V battery is always well charged so that all features and functionality work as intended. My 12V battery maintenance procedures are: 1) every 7 to 10 days wash and recharge my car kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZmQfWOAl8eEi8k (2) if I don't use my Yaris for 24 hours or more I fit a solar trickle charge kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYTJmp5qrt6LnNE connected to the ODB port using a cable fitted for free by my dealer kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWmwnHmLhcuXrLM (3) I monitor the 12V battery voltage every time I start the car using a voltmeter plugged into the accessory socket. This video shows how to monitor the 12V battery voltage and not the recharging voltage from the DC-DC converter. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Zp-8laGEi8ypgKs (4) I keep a NOCO GB20 under the passenger seat in case the above fails This has worked for just over a year ... I have not had a failure to start since October 2023 ... so I don't believe that I need to switch off the keyless entry 🤞

Thanks. I am glad the video was helpful 👍

I have an allocated space in a car park but unfortunately there is no 240V mains socket near my car parking space so I don't have the option to use a mains powered trickle charger but I have read the following which may be a few useful tips: - do NOT connect the mains charger to the 12V battery contact in the fusebox under the bonnet ... this is for jump starting only. - connect the charger directly to the 12V battery which is under the rear seat - the battery is difficult to get at ... I have read that people who regularly connect a mains charger to their Yaris' 12V battery connect cables to the battery that are left in place permanently and the other end is easy to get at and connect to the charger. If you are not able to do this then I guess a local garage would do this for you at (hopefully) a reasonable cost I think that the easier option for you may actually be my dealer's recommended solution which is a solar trickle charger. I have made a couple of videos about this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYTJmp5qrt6LnNE AA Solar Trickle Charger kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWmwnHmLhcuXrLM Cable fitted by dealer I use my solar trickle charger if I am not going to use my car for 24 hours or more. The cause of the problem is the Mutlu battery that Toyota use. I have read that people have successfully fixed the problem by going to Halfords or other non-Toyota garage and asking for a Yuasa battery to be fitted. Toyota GB after 5 months of email discussion changed my 12V battery under warranty but because my local Toyota dealer changed the battery it was changed for another Mutlu battery. My last Mutlu battery only lasted 10 months from new ... so I am only expecting the replacement battery to last 10 months. When this battery fails to start my car I will immediately get a Yuasa battery fitted. I have only had one failure to start but I compared the voltage from my first Mutlu battery with my new Mutlu battery ... the new battery was 0.5V higher than my old battery. This means that my old battery was degraded after a single failure to start!!! If you have had a couple of failures to start I think you need a new 12V battery ... and if you are getting a new battery I would get a Yuasa battery from a non-Toyota dealer. I have no personal experience with this battery but I have read that people have resolved the problem with the Yuasa battery. It sounds like you are low mileage owner and your car may be parked and not used for several days ... so I think the best solution is ... buy a Yuasa battery and a solar trickle charger. If you are not going to use the car for 24 hours or more then fit the solar trickle charger to keep the Yuasa battery topped up. The bizarre thing is ... I really like my Yaris and I often say it is the best car I have ever bought but unfortunately at the same time it is also the worst car I have ever bought because at only 10 months old it failed to start.

@@Helpful-Stuff Another very useful post. My car (Corolla) battery died after only 6 days of ownership (car was 2 years old). Toyota replaced it under warranty, initially promising to replace it with a 'heavier duty' battery, but then said that would invalidate the warranty, so put in another 'original' battery - could just have been an excuse of course. 8 months later all is well, but I'm interested in this Yuasa battery. But also concerned that using one may cause future warranty issues. For information, the 12v battery for a Corolla is in the boot, so easily accessible for me. I'm glad you mentioned about not using the fusebox for charging the battery, which is why I started my search today on how to charge mine, knowing that the fusebox is utilised when jump starting.

I don't believe that fitting a battery from Yuasa or another manufacturer will invalidate the warranty. The owners manual for my Yaris includes the text at the bottom of this comment. The key thing from the text is that it is giving the owner the specification of the battery that must be used .... but nowhere does it say that you must use a specific battery from a specific manufacturer. I would have a quick look in your Corolla's Owners Manual to check but I would guess that it would be similar to my Yaris's manual ... although the specification will obviously be different to the spec required for my Yaris. I have found the Halfords website useful ... enter your registration number and you will get a list of batteries that are compatible with your Corolla www.halfords.com/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/ ==Copied from Yaris Owners Manual=== When replacing the 12-volt battery ●Use a Central Degassing type 12-volt battery (European Regulations). ●Use a battery that the case size is same as the previous one, 20 hour rate capacity (20HR) is equivalent or greater, and performance rating (CCA) is equivalent or greater. Check the label on top of the battery for the battery size and specifications (ex. LN0, 35Ah, 264A). • If the sizes differ, the 12-volt battery cannot be properly secured. • If the 20 hour rate capacity is low, even if the time period where the vehicle is not used is a short time, the 12-volt battery may discharge and the hybrid system may not be able to start. ●Use a ventilation type calcium battery ●Use a 12-volt battery with a handle. If a 12-volt battery without a handle is used, removal is more difficult.

@@Helpful-Stuff Ah, OK. Excuse my ignorance, as I don't understand batteries, but if the spec on the Yuasa is the same as the Mutlu, why would it be preferable? I'm guessing it is deemed a better brand? Thanks again for your replies.

In the text copied from the Yaris owners manual it states "...equivalent or greater." The factory fitted Mutlu battery is rated at 35Ah ... the Yuasa is rated at 45Ah. The Yuasa rating is "greater" than 35Ah of the Mutlu battery ... this is OK because the owners manual states "... equivalent or greater". This 45Ah rating means that the Yuasa battery is designed to hold more charge and will therefore last longer than a Mutlu battery if the car is parked for many days. So if you fit a Yuasa battery in a Yaris it can be parked for longer before the battery runs out of charge. I also believe that the Yuasa battery is a better quality battery and is therefore better able to hold charge in cold weather etc. I think it is also worth mentioning that modern cars use a lot more current when parked and switched "off" than a car of about 20 years ago. Unfortunately although the current demand has got bigger the 12V batteries have got a lot smaller. In a Hybrid or EV the 12V battery does not have to turn a starter motor to get the petrol/diesel engine running which needs a lot of current ... the 12V battery only needs to switch the computers on which requires a small amount of current. Thus means that a Hybrid or EV only needs a small 12V battery to start the car which is great because this save weight and space improving the cars fuel economy. But as mentioned earlier a modern car uses a lot more current when parked than a car of 20 years ago. This current use when parked will drain the small 12V battery .... it would eventually drain a big 12v battery!!! The big question is how long will it take for the 12V battery to go flat. My car would not start after just one day without use!!! Which I consider unacceptable. You will find discussions about all EV's & Hybrids from all manufacturers that will not start ... typically if the car is parked in an airport car park while on holiday for 2 or 3 weeks. My problem with my Yaris happened after just one day parked. So changing to a Yuasa battery will not totally prevent a Yaris from failing to start but it will mean that a Yaris can be parked for longer before the Yuasa runs out of charge and fails to start the car.

Ja - je hebt gelijk - dit werkt ook aan de voorkant van de auto. Als ik langzaam vooruit een parkeerplek inrijd, worden de remmen automatisch geactiveerd als ik met de voorkant van de auto ergens tegenaan rijd. Ik had dit ook in de video moeten opnemen, maar ik dacht er toen niet aan. (Google Translate) English Yes - you are correct - this works at the front of the car as well. If I am moving slowly forward into a parking space the brakes will be automatically applied if I am about to hit something with the front of the car. I should have included this in the video as well but I didn't think about this at the time.

@Helpful-Stuff niet alleen vooruit rijden uit parkeren maar ook tegenliggers zoals fietsers, voetgangers en auto's.

De Yaris heeft veel verschillende systemen om botsingen te voorkomen. Ze zijn allemaal ontworpen voor specifieke situaties (snelheden en rijrichting). Sommige zijn alleen waarschuwingssystemen, maar andere systemen proberen een botsing te voorkomen door te remmen en/of te sturen: (1) Parking Support Brake: Deze werkt bij snelheden tot 15 km/u (9 mph) vooruit of achteruit en is ontworpen om parkeerbotsingen te voorkomen door te remmen, zoals getoond in deze video. (2) Pre-Collision System: Dit systeem probeert botsingen met voertuigen, fietsers en voetgangers te voorkomen door te remmen en zelfs de auto te sturen wanneer de auto vooruit rijdt. Fietsers en voetgangers worden gedetecteerd bij snelheden van 10 km/u (7 mph) tot 80 km/u (50 mph). Voertuigen kunnen worden gedetecteerd tot 180 km/u (110 mph) (3) Rear Cross Traffic Alert: Dit systeem waarschuwt de bestuurder als er auto's van rechts of links naderen die mogelijk niet zichtbaar zijn voor de bestuurder. Dit systeem werkt wanneer de auto in de achteruitversnelling staat bij snelheden onder de 8 km/u (5 mph). Dit systeem zal de remmen niet bedienen of de auto besturen. (4) Blind Spot Monitor: Dit systeem waarschuwt de bestuurder als er een auto in de dode hoek staat of als er een auto snel de dode hoek nadert. De auto moet sneller dan 16 km/u (10 mph) vooruit rijden. Het systeem waarschuwt door een indicator in de buitenspiegel aan de juiste kant van de auto te laten oplichten of knipperen. Ik heb dit systeem getest: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHW0dXxud6enbtE (5) Parking Assist Sensor: Dit systeem waarschuwt met een zoemer en een dashboarddisplay wanneer er objecten (bijv. een andere auto of muur) dicht bij de auto staan. De auto moet met een snelheid van minder dan 10 km/u (6 mph) vooruit of achteruit rijden. (Google Translate) (English) The Yaris has many different systems for avoiding collisions. They are all designed for specific situations (speeds and direction of travel) some are just warning systems but other systems will try to avoid a collision by braking and/or steering: (1) Parking Support Brake: This operates at speeds up to 15km/h (9mph) forwards or backwards and is designed to prevent parking collisions by applying the brakes as shown in this video. (2) Pre-Collision System: This system will attempt to avoid collisions with vehicles, cyclists and pedestrians by applying the brakes and even steering the car when the car is being driven forwards. Cyclists and pedestrians will be detected at speeds of 10km/h (7mph) to 80km/h (50mph). Vehicles can be detected up to 180km/h (110mph) (3) Rear Cross Traffic Alert: This system warns the driver if there are cars approaching from either the right or left that may not be visible to the driver. This system works when the car is in reverse gear at speeds below 8km/h (5mph). This system will not apply the brakes or steer the car. (4) Blind Spot Monitor: This system warns the driver if there is a car in the blind spot or if there is a car rapidly approaching the blind spot. The car must be moving faster that 16km/h (10mph) forwards. The system warns by illuminating or flashing an indicator in the wing mirror on the appropriate side of the car. I have tested this system: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHW0dXxud6enbtE (5) Parking Assist Sensor: This system warns with a buzzer and dashboard display when when there are objects (eg another car or wall) that is close to the car. The car must be moving at a speed of less than 10km/h (6mph) either forwards or backwards.

@Helpful-Stuff er zijn zoveel verschillende varianten yaris van basis tot luxe opties. Goed opletten.

Goed punt. De Yaris is ook verkrijgbaar met verschillende opties in elk land. Mijn auto is de UK 2022 Excel spec met het optionele Tech pack. Hij heeft alle systemen die ik in mijn vorige reactie noemde. (English) Good point. The Yaris is also available with different options in each country. My car is the UK 2022 Excel spec with the optional Tech pack. It has all the systems that I mentioned in my previous comment.