Thanks

Those wires are after the load so it doesn’t effect the voltage. Its similar to connecting all the white wires (common wires) together in your house wiring together. USA 120 volt AC.

Most are universal but not all. Check the specks for your unit.

Well thanks for your comment but if you would’ve paid a little more attention you would’ve seen the switch on the wall in the off position. Unfortunately when editing it the two second shot of me flipping the switch off was edited out. This is part of a series of training videos I do for licensed technicians not necessarily homeowners. I’m assuming that a licensed technician would know how to turn off the power to the heater so I don’t spend much time explaining things like that. Also if you would’ve noticed at the end of the video just before I walked outside you saw me open up the cold water valve by pressing the button on the control. That opens the electrical valve to let the water start flowing. Also if you listen you can hear the water start flowing. Thank you for your concern, and your right make sure everything is turned off.

Yes that was edited out by mistake

Thank you

I recommend checking the rod after one year in use. It most likely will not need to be replaced but it will give you a better idea of how long you have until it will need replacing. It makes no difference of what kind of heater you may have oil,gas, or electric because it is the water that acts on the rod to dissolve it. The factors would be how bad is your water and how much fresh water is introduced into the tank. I have seen an 1 1/4” rod totally dissolved in one year on well water. This rod in the video was in contact with treated city water for 3 years. Not all water heaters have them but most do. Water heaters with a 10 year warranty most likely will have two rods.

Been my experience Scott's suggestion checking new tank anode at one year is spot on. Rate of anode depletion depends on local water chemistry, how many holidays (pinholes) in tank's glass lining, etc. I've seen tanks where anode rod didn't last three years, and would suggest going with impressed current (aka powered) anode in such cases, rather than the traditional sacrificial anode rods. House I'm in now, I check every three years, but have been on same rod for 9 years now and spare rod just gathers dust so far. Would also suggest removing anode rod with impact wrench; it's just much easier/faster and no worries about tank moving while applying torque. Whether removed by impact wrench or by hand like Scott did, only drain enough water so water doesn't leak out when anode is removed. You'll want most of the water left in tank for the inertia stability the weight of almost full tank will provide.

Thank you for your response to my video. As far as your situation goes it could be a number of things but I will have you check the most common that I have found would cause a problem. First you must understand that an intermittent problem can be very difficult to diagnose. You really need to catch it in the act to be certain of the situation or possible problem. How old is the system? Being a Hallmark I’m assuming at least 20 years old since they have not manufactured those furnaces in 15 years or so. I am also assuming this is a replacement furnace not the original but probably the oil tank is the original. Am I correct? disconnect the oil line at the burner and put it into a container then open up the oil tank valve. See if you have flow through the oil line. I’m thinking possibly the oil line or oil tank is plugged with sludge. That would explain while it’s colder or at night when it runs longer that’s when the problem arises because you’re trying to pull more oil. also the ignition transformer is it a steel transformer or a electronic igniter? The old transformers had a tendency to spark OK when they work but then would not spark at all intermittently. If you have a steel transformer on your burner I would replace it to a new igniter. One of the possible cause would be too much air to the burner. You really need to use test gauges to set it up properly. If you do not have access to that, adjust the burner to the manufactures specs in the instruction manual based upon the nozzle size.

@scotttaylor3049 thank you so much for replying back. HVAC can be challenging. I was an industrial electronical/mechanical tech for almost 30yrs, even so, I run into things I don't understand or never worked on. Never been afraid to ask for advice though...lol. What you mentioned does make total sense. It has the huge steel brick transformer and its a 2001 model that was put in 2007. It's my dad's and he really kept it up from the looks of things. I will do as you suggested...maybe flush the line out and if it still acts up will order a new igniter. I know he installed a smart thermostat but hates it. I told him to go back to his programmable Honeywell that has the "auto" function. I don't think that would have anything to do with it but anything is possible. I installed a Cor smart thermostat and after a week I went back to my honeywell. As far as test equipment for a furnace, I don't have anything. I did see the settings listed in manual for air/fuel mixture at 140psi with .75gph nozzle. Again, I appreciate it and will let ya know if this works....I know how intermittent problems can be or were in the industrial field!!..lol. thanks

@scotttaylor3049 Hi again. I did as you suggested and opened the line where it connects to nozzle gun, then opened valve at tank...I had a very good & actually fast gravity flow....almost over flowed my container before my help could turn the valve off...lol. It was in the 30's as well. I basically setup shop at the furnace and finally caught it tripping out. The furnace called for heat and I heard a click after the thermostat delay for start-up but the motor did not start and had a slight hum and I didn't hear the igniter either. Motor & igniter are tied to same secondary wire. I tried again and it started up but later it did the same thing with no motor or igniter start...I had test leads connected to honeywell controller secondary and was only getting like 9vac instead of 120v, quickly switched to primary and I did have the correct input voltage. Later it did the same thing and I tapped the controller with a screwdriver handle and it started up instead of tripping. It seems to be the controller (Honeywell R8184 G) or at least looks like it to me?? I think it has gotten worse too. Let me know what you think. If you think its the controller as well , is there a controller that you recommend that may help if we have issues with the furnace in the future. Like a controller with at least LED indicating lights or a display. Thanks in advance.

@@dgmenace73 😄👍 Congratulations I believe you have found your problem. The internal relays on those old controls wear out overtime. The hinge mechanism will wear and cause the contacts to not pull in properly. I would replace it with the same control if you can find it it will be much easier to install. Some of the new controllers have displays but that is really not necessary and can be difficult to wire if you’re not sure how to do it. I believe if you replace that controller you will be fine.

@scotttaylor3049 thanks...Yeah, I got one on order now. Its crazy how things like a furnace seem to go out at the worst times. I can honestly say that when we installed that Hallmark oil furnace back in 2007, I was a little weary of it but it has proved me wrong. It may be where it was maintained but to be oil fired, and to be 17yrs old, it has done very well. He said it costs him aprx $65-$100/m (depending on oil prices) for 8m a year to heat his house. A budget plan with his oil company. I just found out that he purchased it from a college where it was used for training purposes so it wasn't exactly new when it was installed. I read about the new controllers and asked him if he wanted me to just run a new power wire to keep it powered on he said he was ok with that but when I mentioned programming it, he decided to go back with what he was used to....lol. I do believe this was the issue. I really appreciate your responses & help. Have a good one!

The lever should move freely when the valve is open. If it doesn’t move freely then the valve body is sticking or the lever itself has an issue.

The pressure and vacuum will drop to zero when the burner turns off. The fuel cut off valve which allows the fuel to flow to the nozzle line opens and closes on centrifugal force. The pump needs to get up to speed to open. When testing the cut off valve, the pressure should not drop lower than 10 psi. With the burner running. Please watch my video to explain how to test the cut off valve. Example: If your pump is set to 135 psi. Then when testing the fuel cut off it shouldn’t drop no more than 10 psi. to 125 psi. with the burner running.

@scotttaylor3049 it may have an issue then. It does have one of those insufficient check valves inside the oil tube at nozzle adapter....no electronic solenoid which you probably already know. With the gauge in the gauge port the pressure doesn't drop when running and when it shuts off, that gauge reads zero. Then jumps up to the 125 at startup. I will try to locate the video about checking the shut-off. Thanks

this is such a weird comment, criticizing a video that youre not obligated to watch. someone took the time out of their day to inform and help others who may be in need. you literally offered nothing of value.

Years ago US burners did run at 100 psi. and everything was based on that. Around 20 years ago or so manufacturers started increasing the pressure to 120. This helped atomize the oil better especially cold fuel. This led to 140 and 150 psi. The finer the oil for combustion, (atomization) the better it ignites and cleaner it burns.

Yes

thank you@@scotttaylor3049

The only access to the combustion chamber is by removing the burner. This seldom needs to be done because of the extreme heat in the chamber. You may always have some debris in there. The flame should burn in suspension and not impinge on anything. If that is the case, let it go, it will be fine. If the chamber does need to be vacuumed out, let it cool down and be very carful not to damage the soft fiber chamber.

To run the motor for purging the pump, leave the control box off and jump 5 and 6. Assuming they're wired the same way as here in Ireland.

Possibly, the powerhead has a plunger that pushes into the valve body to open the valve. If the head is not anchored, it will just push the head away instead of opening the valve. If you have heat, that was obviously the problem sometimes though the heads, will loosen and unhook themselves, I know that sounds strange, but it does happen. if it happens again, you will have to replace the powerhead.

Thanks for the question. Technically yes but since you cannot compress oil one drop coming out will drop the pressure to zero. Since there’s nothing behind the oil to push it out like compressed air or gas it will not spray out at you.

@@scotttaylor3049 thank you

Normally if the lever moves freely then the thermostat is calling and the zone valve is open. You can test this by putting a voltmeter on terminal one and two and you should read 24 V. Or turn down your thermostat and after a few minutes check to see if the lever only goes about halfway and then you feel resistance, then you know the valve is closed. It is possible the zone valve body is stuck open. it would be extremely rare but it could happen.

@@scotttaylor3049 valve body stuck in the open position sprayed some w40 hit with hammer and started working thank you

If you open the valve manually by pushing it to the left against the resistance . Can you then turn it off my moving it back to the right?

@@Fireneedsair yes as long as the thermostat is not calling

How are you reading the pressure drop? Where are you connecting you gauge?

@@scotttaylor3049 connect gauge in place of gun. also shouldnt pressure drop help eliminate nozzle drip? i can see it relieving pressure threw the nozzle but if its going back threw the pump i would think drip wouldnt be an issue. nozzle drip is not of concern anyway, i just want to know if pressure drop is a sign the pump is dying or will it be ok? as mentioned pressure comes right back as it should when turned on.

Thanks for your comment. I’m in Connecticut and Connecticut State Code requires a thermal safety valve at the burner and at the oil tank but it only works on temperature if there’s a fire it will melt and shut the oil off. Connecticut code for many years now requires a vinyl coated oil line in case it does leak that way it will not leak into the ground. I’ve never seen one just rupture since it’s not under any pressure but overtime some do corrode through even though it is copper. it is still extremely rare. The majority of oil tanks in Connecticut are in the basement.

www.supplyhouse.com/Suntec-PRV-38-3-8-Oil-Safety-Valve-9944000-p This is what you are looking for

@@scotttaylor3049 Brilliant. Thanks

Not quite just under boiling. Because you’re circulating cold water return through a coil it’s not in there long enough to reach its boiling point. It runs approximately 195 to 200. Because it’s under 20 pounds pressure that also raises the boiling temperature. Water boils at 212° at sea level since it’s under approximately 20 pounds pressure that Raises the boiling point to approximately 228°F.

The filter was loose and I found out it had been serviced the week prior. I don’t believe they got all the air out of the lines and with the filter being loose it just sucked air. Not being a two pipe it would not prime and go into lock out. They had no problem with the boiler because it is a two pipe and would prime. If it happens again, I will just add a return line to the water heater. It’s an older couple with not much money and that will work just fine. Your correct about the nozzles. I have had bad nozzles out of the box but this was definitely a air problem so I was pretty confident. Time will tell. Thanks for watching and your comment.

@@scotttaylor3049 I've found with those filter, there is a fine line between them still sucking in air (even if they don't leak) and the bolt on the bottom breaking loose. I prefer the bigger b4 filters

Hi sorry to hear that. Do you get a flame?

Yes, this was a F head, definitely an 80. What gets me is they scratched out the nozzle size on the rating label and wrote in there own! Thanks for watching 😀

That is true on the burners you mentioned but I was referring to Riello burners when I said that. They run on DC voltage and just never seem to wear. Thanks for listening and commenting. I got into the trade in 1985.