Do you build in Illinois, chicago burbs?

Which one is best in hurricane prone areas?!

Mine was 3 foot galvanized I beam, cutting 6 inches of the web out (leaves you 5.5 inches ID) weld that plate for the pole to set on, drill your holes. The I beams are the ones used in most states driven in the ground for guard rails. (6 foot is typically the length).

For the exterior part of your video curious what kind of cement board you use, is that rated to go below grade?

I LOVE THE HARDWARE

WHERE DID YOU GET ALL THE HARDWARE FROM?

What I have seen in the past was , the concrete footings, pt post , and paced screenings, just as is done on a telephone pole , does this deserve consideration, as it wasn’t one of your options. I’m older and that’s the way we did it thirty ,fourty years ago.

Planning on building a pole shed for my tractor and I would go with either of the 2 options that don't involve thee post being below grade. Thanks for the video.

No more wood contacting the ground.

Never ever invest hard earned money into a traditional pole barn, built in obsolescence beginning the moment the post hits the soil.. Post frame with post sitting above grade on concrete within a steel bracket is the minimum building practice anyone should ever employ or invest in..

What about setting it on paver, then 30% dirt, 40% concrete, then finishing off with 30% dirt. This should allow any moisture to pass all the way though the concrete when/if the post shrinks

Interesting to see the different options. Pole barns are much less expensive and quicker to build than stick built but I would never trust wood in the ground for a permanent structure.

Thanks very much. Very helpful.

Neither, lag, timberlok, Simpson etc

Looks great ,which floor plan is this?

Thank you

Doing a pole barn/ garage 32x40. Pouring concrete all the way past grade. Is 14” diameter hole 48” deep good for the footing

The way I like to do it is casting a 1/2" J-bolt into the concrete, with an cross of 1/4"x10" steel wired to the base(usually some old spiral nails in that size), as further uplift protection. I then bolt a Simpson ABA bracket to the top, and nail the treated 4x4 post to that. I haven't been doing it long enough to know if the zinc electroplating on the Simpson brackets will have rust issues being in contact with the PT wood, but I've found no similar bracket sold in a hot dip finish.

This isn’t far from me, do you build on ratwalls where the posts are bracketed to the concrete?

I've only used #3... I use 3" screws drilled in half way at various levels around the base of the 4x4. The screws seal in the cement for uplift protection. Glad I ran across your video....

I have a pole barn that was built in the late 60’s. They used telephone poles. The pole are rotting right at the surface. Any thoughts on the most cost effective way to fix this? I’d prefer to sister something in so I don’t have to disassemble the connection into the top plate. The building is roughly 60x20 and is a 5 car garage. I appreciate any suggestions you can pass along. Thank you

Are they hand tamping the posts set with dirt around them?

No 1 is highly recommended. For sure it will last for generations.

I’d only consider the first option.

Can you discuss the be I gets of a post frame house? I’m interested in learning more about abour this.

The screws d9work themselves loose in hot climates especially when using long sheets. however they are an easy fix . remove the screw squirt some wood glue into the hole and insert a matchstick or something similar . let dry and reinstall the screw

Put gutters on your shop and install posts with the cheapest method possible. Done

PPE! WHERE ARE YOUR SAFETY GLASSES!

Great video! Most of the rot on the poles we have seen is starting at ground level to about 18 inches down. What we have done is to coat the poles with roofing tar but we go one step further. We wrap the pole with Ice and Water Shield roofing protection starting at about 6 inches above the ground down the pole the width of the wrap. It basically is a barrier from the ground to the pole and is a really cheap and great option. We actually looked at a pole barn we built 20 years back that was damaged in a storm and the poles we did with this method were still in new condition so I would expect them to last my lifetime and my kids lifetime.

We use 20d ring shank hand nail for most of our post frame fasteners. 60d for the purlins. 16d slicks for temp bracing and some window framing. Definitely wish we had the jumbo nailers for it.

You’re nuts if you think that today’s treated lumber will last 50 years in the ground.

You just expanded my mind.

Beautiful job guys just wished you lived in my area.

Packed dirt, no concrete, works fine and lasts for 40+ years. Even survived hurricane katrina

Guidance 🎉finally

Love this

Wood? I use steel poles.

Real simple. Its called liquid rubber. Apply several coats of that stuff and it will last forever and a day. Will never rot. Cheap, simple, easy and non toxic. Youre welcome.

Great idea. All buildings should include this feature.

You look like a Dutch..

What were the dimensions of the building? If you don’t mind me asking

thats the kind of builder we need

I need one for my vehicles!

The only time pole barn construction makes sense is when the customer can harvest the trees off his own land at no cost to make the poles from. OTHERWISE, A full metal building is cheaper-stronger-faster to erect-easier to modify-longer lasting. !

Wish I could find engineered post-frame structures like this in Texas.

I love it

If you lived in California your permits would be $80,000

I have been wondering and that was useful thank you! If I ever build a fence I will use the ringed nails cause they hold better throughout time

I'd want to do that so bad so many options but questions

Love this. Great to see how you are flexible to work with this client and adapt to their needs and figure out americas home crisis. Beautiful home. I can’t wait to own my own someday