I don't recall the rpm/mph for the R154 setup. My car has the 3.73:1 rearend, which was a nice match with the ratios of the R154, but is awful tall for the close-ratio T56 I've got in there now. I'm planning to swap in a 4.10 rearend, which should help a good bit. I have an excel spreadsheet that allows you to key-in your tire size, rearend gear, and trans ratios - and it outputs a table of rpm and mph, as well as plots out the graph of each gear for visual reference (like you see on Gran Turismo when you're playing with gear ratios). I'd be happy to share it with you if you provide email address or a google drive place where I can post it.

@@GroovesAndLands oh ok thanks that would be helpful albahrani.a7medatgmail.com

@@Ahmed-ti2rn sent

@@GroovesAndLands me too? great info

@@zebpfeiffer950 The Gear Ratio spreadsheet can be downloaded here: drive.google.com/file/d/1_L7dK1pDgwsgitRn3VHvQwivciHhtZUV/view?usp=sharing

You need a 1jz bellhousing to mate an R154 to a 2jz; the w55 bell won't work. The shifter is a more complicated answer... On MY setup you see here, that is the same shifter as a W55, but the shifter housing it fits to is rare - it's the one that came on the last model year JDM Toyota Soarer/SC300. It works quite differently than the more typical 3rd gen Supra shifter housings you see - you know, the ones where people chop/weld/extend to move the shifter back?? Well mine is different and allowed use of the same shifter as a W55. However, making that all work right was a hassle and I had to do some clearance grinding inside the shifter housing itself so that I could get full travel on the shifter throws. The driveshaft I used came from Drift Motion. They sell a direct-fit shafts in your choice of steel or aluminum for R154 in an IS300. Speaking of Drift Motion - they have all the parts you need to complete your swap and prices are pretty reasonable. The dude that runs that show is pretty sharp, always answers the phone, and will always try to help you. Good folks. Hope this helps!

@@GroovesAndLands appreciate that dude.

Sorry, it sold last year.

Sure did. I talk about how that clutch is aggressive and difficult to drive a little later in the video. I think the lightweight aluminum flywheel is the culprit. When I bought the car, the clutch chattered a lot and was tough to drive smoothly. I was *sure* the clutch/flywheel was hurt. That was a Clutchmasters FX400 with 6 ceramic pucks and the lightweight driftmotion flywheel. I replaced with the driftmotion stage 3.5, and installed a new steel friction insert for the flywheel. Chatter certainly improved, but was NOT eliminated. Worse in reverse. Took some getting used to, to be able to get the car going smoothly - basically the clutch just didn't like to be slipped. At all. That's when I decided to improve the trans mount, which didn't really help. I replaced with a McLeod RXT twin and steel flywheel. The McLeod has some kind of sintered bronze friction material and does NOT have marcel springs in the hub. It's a great clutch. It can be made to chatter, but very nice to drive - even daily. However, for $1800, it SHOULD be great. Ouch!

The most likely reason is the geometry of your driveline. Watch some videos about how U-joints work. Difficult to put into words, but CV joints (constant velocity) are different - because U joints are not constant velocity. Proper use of U joints requires the joints on each end of the driveline to be at an equal and opposite angle to one another, or you will get pulsing/vibrations.

Nobody prefers an R154; what they actually *want*, is a V160 or T56. However, those are thousands of dollars more, which is not insignificant! R154 isn't a "bad" transmission. They're just a bit rough around the edges. They handle quite a bit of torque, shift well, are relatively inexpensive, and are easy to work on. But noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) is poor compared to more modern stuff.