@@GarDjinn cant hook up to the stock pcm...been there and tried that but the DET3 is a piggyback that connects to a laptop and you make changes to it and then that 'lies' to the stock ecu. Do you run the DET3 on that MG?

Hey there. Here is a flange you could build a log manifold from. Ebay-www.ebay.com/itm/152843773447?_skw=Saturn+SC2&itmmeta=01J88PB3SK9473QP6BE03TP07A&hash=item239632e607:g:5LgAAOSwZtlaQ~VF&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0IGlUAWZBx1gbu%2FRwYCIK9zZFn8ol16gSIOP1GunxAGnxBsrHD1TlTw1q0b7VejA77Fd0cISbsE2t2SfwE7H26fnxOHbYjQdN5ZdvwV1N234YxO7rKilObtnPh9hCyLA1RTaIsAcps7L7yFU7oie0hbdVcdZFA1K9svs4kbf0D0pZHWrWLAi8WNnrH2t2A5drYzbSi5eNQcDCHgjBxm1sgsfHDcj%2BCh59CRx%2BvniVOsX57M7kwdlNEM3LiBHb4whEDRE6NY%2B1nnBREhu3W3xaFs%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_S8rJbCZA

Additionally, there is a option where you could take a cast iron manifold from a mitsubishi, and a couple changes, make it work for yours. I"ll dig up that how-to. The OBX turbo header I cannot find anymore. You might try to search for it however. Now, is the car you got a Saturn or something else? The turbo is simply a T3 ebay type turbo-a few hundred dollars. I don't think a link would help because these things change and are a dime a dozen. I would pick a T3 turbo from say 'Maxpeeding Rods' as their quality, for the money, seems consistent. I'd pick one with a small a/r (say perhaps a .48) for the turbine, for quicker spool up and perhaps a .60 on the compressor side. If there is an option, go with the ball bearing type. Let me know if this helps at all. The mitsubishi header is a great option actually, but if you pick a turbo, and decide on that manifold, you'll want one with a non-internal wastegate (the kind with the can and rod on it already). You could still use that type (like I did) but you're going to have to remove it and make sure that flapper hole gets blocked off. Here is the link for that mitsubishin manifold mod-**the link I put didn't work. Search this and it will come up "mitsubishi turbo manifold on a saturn' and its on a forum of 'sixthsphere'. The site is now defunct but when you term search it comes up and you can read the article.

@@luisgonzalez7055 Raceland Primo Adj Damping Coilovers for Subaru Impreza WRX GD (2002-2007). Part number RA-ADJ-71. These fit any year s-series whether its a four door, coupe or wagon. If you watch the install vids it guides in detail. One small mod to do to one hole where the strut mounts to the knuckle. One person noted they used FRONT upper strut mounts from KYB for front and rear (in other words buy 4 front strut mounts)

yes, its after the converter. That big 'scuba tank' part is deleted but that is the NOX bed and is not monitored by the computer for effectiveness. Unless you mention it to the state inspector, they'll never know. Now, in California? That place? Dunno. I think they know to look for things like this. Not sure if you're in that hell-hole for enthusiasts. Sorry.

@@llcheetolI thank you for the kind words. So it is a 93 so a 31 year old car. The cluster could just be worn out. The circuitry corroded etc. Id hit up ebay for another cluster. They are pretty darn cheap and relatively easy to plug and play. Shouldnt need any programming. Granted the mileage wont be right but that isnt an issue. Another option would be to gut the cluster and put in all aftermarket gausges like autometer or glowshift. Ive seen that done before on a gen1 sl2 and although it was custom to the hilt, it looked awesome. On keeping temps down you could change over to the fan in this vid. It would flow more cfm than stock. You could also put on a module that would make the fan come on at a lower temp. Not sure how high yours is getting but if there is a mechanical issue youd want to discovwr what that is obviously but saturns logic is happy and designed to rum 217 to 221 degrees. Again with ac on the fan will run all the time until you get above 70mph then it cycles on and off between that 217 and 221 range. Not sure if I have helped you so if I didnt, just ask again. Good luck with it!

@@BryanRodriguez-lo8bb Thank you! Yes stock block with 8.5:1 forged pistons with crower rods. Head is portedand polished with ferrea dual valve springs. Intake is port matched as well runnning a dohc geo storm throttle body. Phantom grip lsd conversion and sohc transmission to keep revs lower in 4th and 5th. Rear mount turbo at 12psi but upping shorty to max 20psi. Thank you again for the words man!

@@CarsonDixon-ic4mh 2002 to 2007 subaru wrx

@@CarsonDixon-ic4mh the turbo was a .48 ar exhaust with 50ar compressor so figure a T3. However hindsight for rearmount you might be better doing like a disco potao sized turbo. IF you are running normal mounting in the engine Id say T3. The 'exact' turbo is in a video on this channel but, even if I told you, being a cheap chinese ebay turbo you wouldnt get the exact thing.

@@parkybob22 Thank you!!

These are bosch units and although you could use them by making small tab like brackets that allow moving the fuel rail closer to the head I myself didnt even bother to look thinking I was right from the start. I know just the ones to get though. I was just trying to save some money and have a warranty through my vendors.😪 The ones I'm looking at are from a company called FIVE-0 racing. Here is the link....www.fiveo-racing.com/collections/long-fuel-injectors/products/bosch-ev14-us-euro-long-ev1?variant=23102852291

The wheels are Vors Tr7 15x8 with 0 offset (deep dish). Just type that info in to google and theyre all over the place. I went with bronze in the end and have this siver set available if youre interested. The hood is from a company that is gone now called Fiber Images. Im a few weeks away from reclearing it. The wheels are pretty cheap. Id let the silver set I have gor for 50 each if youre local. Not really interested in shipping and messing with all that

Yeah but what tires do you have on there

@@CarsonDixon-ic4mh hankook ventus rs4-sl 245 40zr 15. Paid 171.00 each

Do they rub ??

@@CarsonDixon-ic4mh no sir. I have coilovers with adjustable dampening. Made for a subaru adaptwd to the saturn

They are from a subaru wrx sti. If you watch the video on my channel all the information is on there. You'll have to modify the bottom hole of each strut but a grinder and 30 seconds each, you're done. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWWZiGqaar-srrM

@@kurtbennett1164 you think I would be good with Stock coils if I run 8s in the back and 6s with spacers in the front

@@CarsonDixon-ic4mh not sure what youre saying with 8 and 6 but Im pretty certain with stock springs these rims and tires, without loweringbit the wheel well gap is going to be excessive and perhaps not look right. Again my goal was to run flares and then try as best as possible to fill the flare flush with the wheel and tire. For a wider look. Not sure what that exact combo looks like with stock springs. I think the overall height of the tirw would clear the fender top by a wide margin but perhaps too high to not give the look youre after

@@kurtbennett1164 I want it to look excessive

Wings west is the lip kit maker but the fender flares I did myself. Thank you for the kind words!

K Im keeping track! Thats 2 for silver 😀

I knew Id seen that color in a coupe before!! Nice! No engine managemwnt just the old method of fueling the heck out of it. At least for the next couple montha. I have already bought ecumasters det3 piggyback. Controls fuel, timing, 2 step, boost control, rev and speed limit removal but isnt a full standalone like ive done in the past! Gonna install that with full updates here very soon. Thank you for the kind words!

This turbo is a t3 rear mount with properly sized exhaust and intake tubing to keep lag down. Im very happy with it. At 12psi now but already bought 550cc injectors to install with that det3 piggyback soon to run 20psi

@kurtbennett1164 40mm, 50mm turbo? My stock little Eclipse's run a small snail but my 2 HotRod Eclipse's both have a 60mm. All are 4 cylinder cars. I have pushed 700hp at 40 PSI. I ask on the "size" just in case I'd like to turbo MY Saturn. Thanks for your reply! 👍 Love the little Orange Saturn!

@@martywilsonwilsonenginesho7940 Thank you sir! I LOVE those eclipses and came 'this' close to getting one when I was trading in my 93 satty coupe for my 95. I test drove it with the wife, awd turbo but it was so heavy felt like it was not going anywhere. Wasn't impressed. I have never fell out of love of that look of eclipse. My first turbo was a T25 from an eclipse! I even used the side mount intercooler on the passenger side behind the fascia and it worked great for 12psi for a long time! This is an ebay turbo and all I can tell you my friend is it is an .48 a/r turbine and .50 a/r compressor. you know our friends in china can say one thing-but send another! I went through three turbos before settling on this one on now!

@kurtbennett1164 Thanks. I really love the car. My son and I rebuilt the cute little engine and I was surprised to see the main girdle in them and told him "I wonder if they ever intended to supercharge these?". Very neat motors and I'm getting 35mpg. If it were turbocharged, it would be more FUN so the mileage would go DOWN, for sure. Thank you for your insite as to how to make them "more enjoyable". 👍 May I ask where to find the piggyback tuner to use?

Thank you sir!

Nothing for a couple decades now. Just used the old, crude way of upping fuel pressure. Ran pretty great that way BUT, here in a few weeks I'm going to install ECUMASTERS det3 piggyback for fuel and timing control, along with 2 step, rev and speed limit removals, etc. I'm going to check that MAP wiring and connector and then see if the stock pcm took a dive and that pin is failed. Might need a pcm

thank you for the help! Believe it or not, cylinder 4 is a hair bit larger than the rest and has always had an audible 'knock'. They do that because apparently, that cylinder takes more heat than the others and they size it a hair bit larger for expansion. I watch the knock reading on the guage and it doesn't show anything. Been running that way for a couple decades now. LOL. But thank you for watching my back!

If so, i have a 04 cavalier, with the 2.2 boosted aswell, are you on stock pcm/ecu?

This is saturns 1.9 dohc not the ecotec but I am currently and have been for many years been running stock ecu. Im going to upgrade very soon to ecumasters det3 piggyback for more precise fuel control and 2step etc

@@kurtbennett1164 man hell yeah this things sick, my cavalier turns many heads when it flies past you and you hear a BOV haha but sadly im on stock pcm myself, these l61s have NO tuning options available, i think running a standalone is my next option, Michigan has no tuners for the 2.2 ecotec's stock pcm sadly, but this is my first time seeing this saturn, thing is beautiful, same color as my cavy!

@@4130Filmzz Funny you should say that, but the satty's 1.9 is the same 7x reference ignition system as yours and the ecumasters det3 piggyback will work for you as well. let me get it on and tuned and then see if it meets your needs. It will have timing and fuel control, full maps for that, along with 2 step, rev and speed limiter removal and you won't have to tune it throughout like a standalone! Thank you so much for the good words my friend!

@@kurtbennett1164 Sounds good! Not a problem, earned yourself a Sub! looking forward to seeing how it goes! ill definitely be picking one up myself if it works good!

man thank you brother! I appreciate it!

I love it! Awesome build. So a stock dohc can do 50 to 70hp on all stock internals all day long so figure 5-7 psi of boost. That engine and your weight would benefit from a small turbo like a t25. Full boost will be there around 2000 to 2200 rpm. I don't know what fuel system you're running (fuel pump) for it but the stock Saturn's fuel pump was more than able to handle the 5 to 7PSI. Some will argue that the stock bottom end can take a bit more but for what you described as your need and for reliability sake I would keep it at 7psi. I think I read there that you're running stock pistons but aftermarket rods? If so then the pistons are going to be your limiting factor no matter if you have upgraded rods or not. I would imagine you're using the Saturn stock ECU for control?

@kurtbennett1164 Yeah, stock pistons for longevity. Purposely open up the top ring gap .003 as the original idea was to graft the m62 I had laying around . Plans changed as they so often do . I have been watching your rear mount set up with interest for about 2 years now as it is closest to what I am thinking about. Stock header , 2.25 piping going under the pan and up to the intake manifold mouth , throttle body mounted to tubo intake. Forgot to mention the engine sits behind the rear seat. The rods were only because that seemed to be the area with the most breakage. Was going to use the later block setup with the girdle (have 2 blocks) but decided against that because this isn't a high rpm build . Also, I thought about the high compression build with late rods and (I think early?) pistons but that would involve water injection and the required electronics. I like k.i.s.s. hence rear mount turbo (sorta) . Thank you for the response. As far as I'm concerned you are the go to on all things saturn. God bless. And will be watching

@@billstahler5735 please make a youtube channel. Id like to see you make this thing happen. Anytime you need help sir reach out. Perhaps the turbo size called the 'disco potato' might be better. Id actually thought about it for this next version for turbo so it spools up a hairbit sooner. Thank you and God bless you back!

@@billstahler5735 So you know, the stock pcm does a great job of staving off detonation. I've ran that turbo, both front and rear mount, without any timing control except for using the highest octane gas available with an octane booster. That, and two heat range colder spark plugs. Nothing else and I don't have any detonation. I'd for sure intercool it though. You may want to hang out and let me do the DET3 piggyback install. That way most the issues with running larger injectors and then even timing control along with other features, you can use for yourself as well but in the meantime, you can surely do the 5-7psi intercooled with stock pump but I'd use perhaps either the BEGI rrfpr (for the onset of gain 3psi window managment) OR, you could go a bit larger on the turbo and use a t3 where boost will come on later. I'd just make sure the turbine a/r is small

@kurtbennett1164 Thanks . Will be watching for sure . I actually have an old Garrett turbo from my 2.2 dodge charger days that is refurbished. If you noticed I am doing a draw through similar to the original chrysler/ dodge set up . Believe it or not for the most part I think an old w.i. setup with boost assistance will meet my short burst needs. I am a little concerned that my turbo is a little big (I know it's slow with the carbon seal and heavy exducer) but some of the hills we have around ( like Palistine area in Texas) here and third gear with a simple detonation detection device should help me sort it out. Any build I have ever done was destined as a dd which means I must be able to service it with parts from Auto Zone and the like wherever I an. P.s. I'll think about yting it if only to give back. Lol hope an old codger can learn new tricks. God bless your day.

Thamk you!

So, I did think about using them and was on the verge of ordering it and adding bungs into the runners for extra injectors. Then leave in stock injectors for stock and non-boost power needs and the SS for boosted areas. However, I stumbled on a company called ECUmasters and a product called the DET3 that will allow me to go into tables and have full control over the fueling so I can run the needed 550 injectors but take out the fuel in non-boost cells. Also gives me timing control, two step, rev and speed limiters etc, but doesn't require full tuning like a standalone, megasquirt, etc. require. I like that simplicity and its going to be fine for 20psi. Any more than that and then yes, I'd go full standalone but at my age and situation, full standalone isn't a place I want to go right now. I'll do a full install vid on the DET3 and update. I'm excited about it actually. Thank you for the great advice!!!

I was using the 'missing link'-a aluminum check valve hiding the boost signal. However, I don't want to run that anymore. My issue is, yes-we can hide the electronic signal that makes the 1bar go crazy, but what about the physical damage from pushing on the inside of the map sensor? I wonder if that will be an issue even if I'm able to hide the signal.

I had it routed wrong. I got it right though. Its working great right now, just like before I deleted the factory regulator. Turns out this model BEGI has to be used with another regulator. I had to use the BEGI because of the 'onset of gain' feature it offered over non-onset of gain models (most others on the market).

Make it so! Keep me up on your progress!

Would you happen to know if 97 Saturn sc1 have lowering springs? I try looking it up on eBay and Amazon but can’t find any for my 97 Saturn

@@jamespalmer5130 Looking pretty sparce for sure. I found some but in britian and of course, never know once you order them, if they will shoot back within minutes 'backordered'. But I did find them on ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/154230862832

@@jamespalmer5130 alternatrively, you could go with the subaru ones like I and others did, and get some cheap coilovers. Mine ride excellent. Just look for the video of where I changed out from the progress group ones I had to the coil overs for the subaru. Little bit of slotting holes for them to get them to bolt up to the knuckle, but, us satty 'beggars' can't be too choosey

@@jamespalmer5130 And you should know, any s-series spring can fit on any s-series model so order if for a 200 sl2, and it will fit a 97 sc2, etc., That was the beauty of the s-series line

Hahahaha

Thank you brother! Appreciate it all!

Its the hp goal that is more critical to ask. Are you staying naturally aspirated, torbo or nitrous? If not then just your basic stock replacements work. Whats your goal?

Thank you so much sir!

Go for it man make sure to take a video so we can see it when you're done I'm excited for you!

Thank you for this guidance. I did update the wire and heard about preheating but not the ground wire! That makes sense! I see different tips, more pointy ones than the brass one i have. Is thatbsomething to try as well? I see pointier black ones and then bigger brass ones. I am really on the verge of getting an 220 amazon one Isaw but its gas.

Hahahaha! I appreciate the honesty of the welds. No push back here! Made me laugh though. 😃

Yes Ive heard of it. Friends at work use it on their gm builds. What idea you got?

@@kurtbennett1164 well hp tuners covers a 97 Chevy cavalier and I have a 96 Saturn sc1 they are both single cams. Is it possible to take the cavalier ecu and plug and repin it to my Saturn so then you could tune it through hp tuners ?

@@bryceglover8161 I'm not that familiar with it to guide you. I'm not sure the cavy's mechanical timing is similar to just put in the pcm, de-pin/re-pin to the correct sensors as I'm not sure if the crankshaft sensors are the same from car to car, if the ignition timing would be easy peezy to just run over like that. Saturn's internally notched crank has a 7x reference. Not sure what the cavy's is. Man, you'd be a better man than me to do that and I have access to both car's electrical diagrams from prodemand (mitchell) and alldata. I think you might have heard me say at one point, IF I were to blow this motor, rather than build another s-series, I'd do a kswap or a toyota motor install and swap. THEN yes, using the donor car's ecu, wiring harness etc, that would be easier in terms of insuring it would work and run once you were done. Things like a/c, power steering, instrument cluster working correctly, etc.-basically anything electronically controlled, would take some time in pinning things out but could be done. Of course then, the big job comes in stabbing that motor and trans in and engine mounting it up. Either way, I like your idea only at this ripe old age, its better left to those with more than 20 Christmases left in their bodies. LOL

@@kurtbennett1164 yes I would have to do a lot more research I just wanted to pick your brain about it and I was thinking ok keeping the Saturn engine just doing a computer swap and I have a junkyard semi locally that has the car and wanted some ideas on how hard that would be and it is all base model stuff on both cars and has no radio and ac so everything with the wiring would be semi minimalistic because where I’m at you can get a tag for anything doesn’t matter how many lights are on the dash hahah

@@bryceglover8161 I'd say if you're going to go through that level of work, I'd just as soon take on a K20 motor swap. That way, parts are stupid cheap and an N/A motor can be built to what, something like 400hp?

Man thank you so much for the kind words wow that is a ton of mileage on that satty of yours-true fan for sure! Yeah I questioned the way I had that system set up as well. During boost the PCV valve shuts off so nothing goes in from the intake into the valve cover but there should at be perhaps not a whole lot but should be some blow by getting up into the cylinder head, no? Since I was running that rear mount turbo setup I really leaned on STS install guide to tell me what I had right or wrong. I found this out later but apparently based on what they say unless it is MAF vehicle then they say I haven't set up right. If it was AMAF vehicle I would have had to incorporate that valve to block boost when it goes into boost to hide the air from the mass airplane center. I looked all over KZbin for anyone that was running rear mount turbo system to see if they had guidance on how to run it and I never found anything. 😥 I am one day away from firing up and a few small things. Stay tuned! 😀

@@kurtbennett1164 Will look forward to it, Kurt! I'm not a turbo expert. My rudimentary knowledge of pressure makes me think connecting the valve cover breather to any part of the discharge path of the turbo is not ideal. Probably better to have the breather/catch can ported to the intake side of the turbo where there is, filtered atmospheric air. Don't know what that'll do to the turbo if the catch can overfills, however. The part you explained during idle, when the PCV is metering crankcase gasses into the intake plenum and the breather is drawing in "fresh" filtered air, should work as advertised the way you have it now. But when the engine is rev'd and boosted, the crankcase blowby won't be able to escape out the breather if it is connected to any part of the boosted intake while the pressurized/boosted intake air duct is at a higher pressure than the blowby pressure. I imagine the oil in the crankcase might be one tell - getting pretty dark in a hurry. You could also try measuring the pressure at the dipstick to see if the crankcase is being pressurized from the boosted intake too. Perhaps my theory is wrong because the oil dipstick isn't blowing out. Interesting stuff! Anyway... I can't be certain, because it's been a while, but I thought "thatdudeinblue" was running a rear turbo. ~ Rob

@@rcnthusiast I want to say thatdudeinblue has done a total of two test drives of a saturn a guy has but it isnt rearmount. There are sadly few modding these cars, fewer turboing and I do believe Im the first rearmount. Not that this is groundbreaking since tons of people rearmount, but Id suspect they run catch based on maf orap sensor equipped situations. Im going to take what you said and run it through my supercomputer brain lolol and see if Im wrong still. Probably!😅

Going to? Have been evwry😪 day!

Man thank you! I am very close at this point to getting it out on the road again! Cant wait. Thank you for the kind words!

My thoughts exactly but not any domestics out there that give me the desire. Wished it wasnt the case

No but it is crazy simple. You need the donor motor and pcm and wiring harness. If you wanted to, you could keep and use ypur sohc trans as it bolts right up but the gearing is not as short in 4th and 5th.

@@kurtbennett1164 thanks ...have a lead on a complete donor DOHC car ...have to wait to see if summer comes this year ...Canada ..cheers

Now...on to motor rebuild ...!! 🤣🤣

@@thebearsden1701 Yes! Stay on it! It will come!

Rock on my friend. For clarity, that one in the vid IS a sohc transmission so good on you! :) If you have any questions, don't hesitate to reach out! Keep on rockin' the Satty!

You know I thought about that but I didn't want to get it to the point where the other welder couldn't manage what I had messed up with all those tacks on there so I left it alone thank you for the vote of confidence!!

Believe it not me too but guess what, that was the one location I DIDNT do that muffler paste! Dangit! I went to oreillys and bought a clamp that bolts to the pipe just after the muffler and has a hanger rod built on to it. Im going to weld that hole shut (mines hanging on by a thread) wow it literally just happened two days ago. Too funny. Search exhaust hangers on oreillys site. Scroll down till you start to see thebrubber hangers then you will start to see metal pipe clmps with a hanger welded to it. There are a few oprions. The one that worked best for me was out of the three they show, like the 32 bdollar one. Or just see what an exhaust shop will do something for you

Mines just happened today lol crazy it lasted 5or6 months mine is also hanging by a thread lol and I put the paste right there too I just got another muffler that looks just like it on eBay but it has a better hanger with another support bar on it

@@tevinwilkerson9888 i might go that way too now that you mention it

​@@kurtbennett1164 just got the new muffler and it quieted it down a lot lol and I come to find out that the muffler the hanger broke of is nothing but a straight pipe it dont have any fiberglass or anything in it to dampen sound lol

@@tevinwilkerson9888 yes i knew that already! Also the 'resonator pipe' doesnt have anything in it all either! Hahaha

My gosh what a compliment. I sincerly appreciate that. I do try. Thank you very much!

I will try to do a special of sorts soon on just that! Thank you!

@@kurtbennett1164did you really scrap the 95??

@@brandonlavan2825 I did. Sadly. I was really keen on perhaps swapping interiors from the 97 to the 95 and making it street again, but I looked and looked and couldn't find headlight motors, linkages, etc. Also body parts were hard to find also. Ebay wasn't much help. Figured if I was ever rear-ended, wouldn't have much help. Kind of the same with this 97 I have but I'm going to insure with Hagerty for 20k in case it gets totaled. All that work for a blue-book total of what, 1700? hahaha. Believe me, it was hard to do and I lingered but it just made to sense to clear the garage up.

@@kurtbennett1164 I share the discouragement with hard to find parts. 😢 it really brings a tear to my eye seeing such a rust free Saturn die!

Nice thank you! Mystery solved!