Should I prime the foam board before applying the asphalt paint?

Airbrushes are a hassle. You said it perfectly. Don't get your paint thinned right? You are cleaning the brush out and guessing again on thinner. Get it too thick and it is really gunked up. The condition of my brushes attests that I will not care for the airbrush the way I should and consequently, it will not work as it should. I haven't seen an airbrush effect that I like well enough to put up with the hassle. The exception I will eventually make is when I start doing large scenery areas. I will buy an airbrush, do a large area of scenery, paint it all black and then air brush in all the color I want (no more shiny static grass). Beyond that, I have no use for an airbrush. It isn't lazy, it is just an aspect of the hobby I don't care about.

Dear Todd, While it is nice to have the flashlight for UV, you can totally still using the UV resin. Apply resin and walk outside. There is a substantially large orb in the sky that puts off both UV A and UV B which will happily cure your resign LOL :)

Wait, is painting the chimney episode 193, or is my phone hiding stuff from me? 😂

Nice job, Brett. I love using powders and pigments for weathering.

Thanks for sharing Brett

This is the stuff I’ve been waiting for. Thanks Brett.

It’s strange that you keep calling the company that made this kit F. O. S. The company is owned by a man named Doug Foscale. So the company is called Fos scale models.

Oh by the way I love the shorts. Sitting on the toilet

Can't wait for more!!!

The drawer underneath your workbench that came from Michael's what size was that

Are you gonna start up the podcast again? I always enjoyed listening to you guys.

Another suggestion for the open door: put the black paper over the door opening instead of blackening the door window...

WELCOME BACK.

Hay there Bret

I think if I made a road like this I'd use White lines instead of yellow

Have you ever made a road like an Interstate Highway Road?

Hi, did you try the liquitex heavy gel gloss medium? Any differences? Thx

nice

Looks great. You can never have too many little sheds on the layout!

Nice work. It must feel good to stretch the modeling muscles after a year plus.

Glad you’re back! Enjoyed the show. If I may, it would be nice if you guys could watch the foul language. I know you gents are better than that. Brett, I wouldn’t want my kids to hear it. You’re a better dad than that.

What…???? Time for some “man splainin”..!!! Haha.. Welcome back..!

Can you sand it after it cures to smooth it out? I thought this was more of a pour and smooth out application. It was really helpful to see that you can use a paint brush to apply it and that you don't need that much. Useful video, thanks!

Thanks bud I'm already here

It should be noted dimension wise, these are good dimensions for an older highway from say the 1930s. If you are modeling a more modern era such as after the 1960s, highways generally have 12 to 13 ft lanes now with 4, 8 or 10 ft paved shoulders, or just gravel. Center line skips are standard 10 ft long now on 40 ft centers, so 30 ft gaps. The gap between double yellow is generally 7 to 8”. Looks good. 👍🏻

Harry. He looks like a Harry to me

Something tells me that this isn't the first figure to be on that cork by the looks of it.

That guys name is Rocky Balboa

Love you it

nice

Looks like a 'Luigi' ...

I think dry bushing on top of first black layer would make more details

Cool idea 😮 Thanks for sharing 👍

Awesome! Saved for the future recreation of my grandfather’s chicken houses and hay barn on my n scale.

Really great result! Liked and subscribed 👍

Subbed just because I loved the subscribe sign you have at the beginning

Nice. I'm looking for something that I can leave outside..

have you tried mixing it with paints before? I seen someone made some really nice toxic sludge with the heavy gloss medium (similar to this, was liquitex, also) I have been meaning to pick some up to mess around with and see if I can do anything I want to use on my bases (I mainly do Warhammer 40k armies, but I really like to make nice bases for them) I am looking at getting into using UV resin, as I'm only using it in small amounts, so easy enough to do. Resin on the scale you're doing is a huge task.

I like the idea of using brown chalk to tone down the colors and to highlight the facial features. For skin, I use Army Painter skin tones: Barbarian flesh, Elven Flesh, and Tanned Flesh. Then I apply an Army Painter wash: either a light tone or a flesh tone to bring out the highlights. I also use Army Painter Washes - sometimes they're called shaders - to add contrast to the rest of the figure. Painting blue jeans with a faded denim craft paint, then applying a blue wash makes outstanding faded jeans!

Du redest so unendlich viel anstatt auf den Punkt zu kommen.

Just tried this and wow it works great! Never thought of sanding the back side if the paper!

Are you planning on any more videos?

Looks like long wooden matches might work and be a lot cheaper.

This is a great interview, not just by entering the (mindblowing?) mind of James Powell, but in the fascinating history of early model railroading.

Great interview. James is a true creator and superior asset to the hobby..!

I just used this method on a set of 1/35 scale tank tracks which are going on a derelict Tiger 1, came out very nice! Thanks for sharing your secret brew!

I was curious and hope you'll answer, even though the video is few years old! Was everything packed like that when you received the kit (ie: stripwood loose as well as all of the other wood parts)?

👊 *PromoSM*

Very true, but was he sitting on the toilet?? Asking for a friend 🤓