what type of paint do you use?

its cheating. it works, its fast, and its takes minimal effort. its still cheating. its ok to cheat sometimes. work smarter, not harder! for reference surfaces, theres no other way to get 90% or better. still chase with a hand scraper on slides.

Beautiful.

Well done bro!😊

Bellissimo avresti i piani per costruirlo?

is it for sale?

Long tot cho di khong so mat ! 😊

The arms lifting the marbles are mesmerizing

Sir, i used your method wiht a Dremel 3000 over a Colcheter lathe ways. I could get .005 mm flatness in one meter.

👍👍👍

Nice job! Your gears mesh so well

amazing

good

nice

Moin, das ist ja schon eine deutliche Reduzierung. Sehe ich das richtig, dass du nur einen "einfachen" Kasten gebaut hast, ohne weiteres Dämmmaterial?

I like it! :)

Polish it with precision grinded stone and it it would be perfect :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWmVhWOKlJmIfsk

@migru59 I've been using your technique recently, trying to level my lathe's bed ways. I had bought a mini lathe from China which arrived horribly out of spec, especially the lathe bed was in very bad shape. Originally I did the same as you showed in your video, using one of those coloured grinding wheels in my rotary tool to grind away the high points that were dyed blue by oil paint applied with a camelback parallel, and it worked really well. However it also left a pretty bad finish, very rough and needing quite a bid of work up in between to debur. I had a bit of an eureka moment and tried something else to remove the high spots with, rotary tool mounted sanding drums. It made a noticeable difference, much more accurate metal removal and it left a much better finish afterwards! The next improvement I'm wanting to try out is to make some custom sanding drums with fine sandpaper (240, 320 & 400 grit) for the final steps, so using coarse sanding drums for the initial metal removal and once it's showing blue dye over the entire length of the work switch over to the fine sanding drums to remove away very small amounts of metal and leave a very smooth finish.

I love it 😍😎 What did you use for the window? Double acrylic?

Well done. I am going to try this as a method first with practice pieces, then I have a Clausing Lathe that has slightly worn ways. They are hardened so this may be much better for that

Hello Migru, was thinking of doing a video like this. I am a die maker in the auto industry in America. We call this spotting normally used on odd shaped die sections, trim steels, after heat treat. Spotting is and all around method to fit details together. I remember when I was an apprentice and scraperhands would be brought in to work on a machine, I used to think that type of work is to tedious for me. Now look how popular scraping has become at least on KZbin. Great video, I'm actually working on my atlas 618 lathe right now reclaiming all the wear surfaces. Mike - Plus8Precision

I am not a machinist but I worked a piece of cast iron about 4x6 inches like this with a Dremmel and it worked .

Have you heard anything about white hand syndrome?

cool. Konstruktion macht guten Eindruck. Welchen Draht hast Du genommen und wieviel Strom braucht man? Habe schon eine CNC Multiplex Fräse gebaut und helfe demnächst einem Freund beim Bau einer CNC Schneidmaschine.

I did my Bridgeport's hardened Y way with a bench grinder and I was lucky enough to pull a 0,01 mm over 600 mm length. The X way I first cleaned it off of the crome coating and then I power scraped it. It took me forever and a day.

that could work for a mated non moving surface but for moving surfaces you need about 20points per 25x25mm, the peaks and valleys need to be between 1-2micron for carrying lubrication oil. watching you work on that tiny surface, all i can say is it would have been much more efficient to have done it with a manual hand scraper to a much higher standard. nice idea but scarping wouldn't exist if it could be done this way properly.

As a toolmaker in auto industry I do a lot of hand grinding with pneumatic or electric die grinders. For flat surfaces I prefer biger 25mm conical grinding stone, it produces very flat and even surface. Did a test on 250x150mm hardened steel. Surface was around 0.02mm low at the center. After 1/2 hour and around 10 grinding pases It was in few microns. So it can be done, but you must be very careful. Probably the best and fastest way would be to grind it with die grinder than scrape it for last 5 pases.

This is a great idea, could solve a problem I hv been working on... What bit do you use? If you had a reference for the bit that would be awesome. Thanks for the time invested in uploading the video.

I think this is a good idea. I used it, to get a compound slide to reasonable flatness. I did the finishing with a hand scraper. Saved me a lot of time. And the result after finish scraping was perfect. Vielen Dank!

Is that surface plate made of steel

Please let me know running parameters

I've seen people use 115mm angle grinders for this purpose on large workpieces!!!

I have been working on an unfinished, Busch Precision cast iron straight edge, a few minutes to an hour, for several weeks now. A very rough bar of cast iron. I have a scraper tool about 18 inches long with a carbide scraper bit and recently started using a file as well. When I write "rough" I mean that the differences the height of one part of the straight edge to another is as much as .125 thousands of an inch! It has been very slow going. Before seeing this video, last week I started using a Dremel with a grinding stone. An American version of the Proxxon that is used in this video. The grinding stone is an orange one. I am not sure how that compares to the pink grinding stone. I will try that type of grind stone and see how it works. The work is going much faster now that I started with the grinding stone. Hopefully there will be no problem with the grains of the grinding stone embedding in the cast iron. I have been bluing the straight edge on a cast iron surface plate. I will know if there is embedded particles of the grind stone when I clean the bluing off it. If there are lots of tiny circles on it, then there were. But, when using the carbide scraper bit, I was taught to use a small sharpening stone to smooth out any ridges left after scraping and before re-bluing the part being scraped. I am sure there were no abrasive grains of the stone embedded with that. In regards to the issue of grinders embedding grains into the metal, I read on a hobby machinist forum where a guy wrote about a large, precision machine that was being scraped and rebuilt, in place, where he worked. He wrote that the man climbed up on the machine and began to use a 4 inch angle grinder on the ways of the large machine. He had to walk away at that point. So, if an employee of a professional scraping and rebuild shop would use a grinder on machines then they must know that it will not embed abrasive particles in the metal.

Can i use angle grinder for this method? And cutting disc?

I m building my onw lathe and know how hard is scraping steel with scraper

Why it bent in the first place, from surface quality look like has been finnished from surface grinding machine. Or you are working on unstable material not suitable to be used as any standard tool.

Danka! I'm tempted to try HSS Dremel bits to avoid the possibility of embedding abrasive particles in the work piece.

I dont have access to this pink rocket tool. Another DIY tip for using with a dremel?

Terrible idea you're introducing grinding particles into the material you're trying to flatten. If it's a way, that it'll just accelerate the ear. This is definitely not an alternative

Thanks for sharing. I've seen this technique use on hardened ways.

Thank you for sharing! Did you intentionally use the abrasive ceramic over tungsten carbide bit?

Das ist genial, geht schnell und funktioniert. Ich habe derzeit weder Powerscraper noch Hartmetallhandschaber und habe mich bisher mit einer entspr. angeschliffenen alten Feile beholfen. Das ging, aber langsam und sah nicht aus. Mit Deiner Technik habe ich gestern in wenigen Durchgäbgen eine Fläche ca. 70x200mm für einen Selbstbau eben und tragend bekommen. Das Tragbild kann man vorzeigen und mit Gleitbahnöl hält der Schlitten regelrecht saugend. Vielen Dank.

Very good. And it is NOT an "alternative" (it sounds little bit inferior) to scraping... It is separate, proper and legit technique in many industries (for example tool, die, and mold making). Rotary tools are used usually in roughing stage, then you switch to reciprocating motion (by machines or by hand, like classic stoning). If necessary you finish with lapping and/or polishing.

I have the exact same rotary tool, so I thought I'd give it a try. It works, to be sure, but it takes a great deal of practice to keep the surface flat enough, instead of turning it into a series of wave-like peaks and valleys. If you don't have a scraper, then this is indeed a good alternative; on the other hand, you could invest perhaps 100 euros and get a proper hand scraper, which will produce a flatter trough. In any case, I commend migru59 for providing food for thought; given that a Biax scraper is far beyond most hobbyists' resources, perhaps we should start looking for alternatives. How about a modified reciprocating saw? Or even a jigsaw?

nice work

Sweet video. Really dig this sort of thing. Would love to see more. Keep it up.

gibt es eine Bauanleitung?? Welche Software verwendest du??

Just wish that I could click on Thumbs Up more than once. Great idea! Thank you.

wow,i like too much