Spot paste blue www.wemag.de/en/item/spot-paste-3000331.0080
@ferhat.karacuha4 ай бұрын
@@migru59 thank you
@paradiselost9946 Жыл бұрын
its cheating. it works, its fast, and its takes minimal effort. its still cheating. its ok to cheat sometimes. work smarter, not harder! for reference surfaces, theres no other way to get 90% or better. still chase with a hand scraper on slides.
@hekatoncheiros208 Жыл бұрын
Beautiful.
@Woodmarblemachine Жыл бұрын
Well done bro!😊
@migru59 Жыл бұрын
Thank you very much 😀
@Comfortlab252 Жыл бұрын
Bellissimo avresti i piani per costruirlo?
@ceo4cet Жыл бұрын
is it for sale?
@phambon6537 Жыл бұрын
Long tot cho di khong so mat ! 😊
@jackb3555 Жыл бұрын
The arms lifting the marbles are mesmerizing
@migru59 Жыл бұрын
Yes, everyone who sees the marble machine is fascinated by the arms. Me too 😊
@carloszacarias4526 Жыл бұрын
Sir, i used your method wiht a Dremel 3000 over a Colcheter lathe ways. I could get .005 mm flatness in one meter.
@migru59 Жыл бұрын
Hello Carlos, thank you for the feedback! I am glad that your work was successful 👍👍👍 Michael
@denDiy11 Жыл бұрын
👍👍👍
@jamesjones762 Жыл бұрын
Nice job! Your gears mesh so well
@migru59 Жыл бұрын
Thank you! I made the gears (and almost all other parts) with my CNC router 😊
@anto2998 Жыл бұрын
amazing
@mfpole Жыл бұрын
good
@kennyrogersfan Жыл бұрын
nice
@andre20282 жыл бұрын
Moin, das ist ja schon eine deutliche Reduzierung. Sehe ich das richtig, dass du nur einen "einfachen" Kasten gebaut hast, ohne weiteres Dämmmaterial?
@artmckay67042 жыл бұрын
I like it! :)
@maslak02082 жыл бұрын
Polish it with precision grinded stone and it it would be perfect :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWmVhWOKlJmIfsk
@pieterveenders97932 жыл бұрын
@migru59 I've been using your technique recently, trying to level my lathe's bed ways. I had bought a mini lathe from China which arrived horribly out of spec, especially the lathe bed was in very bad shape. Originally I did the same as you showed in your video, using one of those coloured grinding wheels in my rotary tool to grind away the high points that were dyed blue by oil paint applied with a camelback parallel, and it worked really well. However it also left a pretty bad finish, very rough and needing quite a bid of work up in between to debur. I had a bit of an eureka moment and tried something else to remove the high spots with, rotary tool mounted sanding drums. It made a noticeable difference, much more accurate metal removal and it left a much better finish afterwards! The next improvement I'm wanting to try out is to make some custom sanding drums with fine sandpaper (240, 320 & 400 grit) for the final steps, so using coarse sanding drums for the initial metal removal and once it's showing blue dye over the entire length of the work switch over to the fine sanding drums to remove away very small amounts of metal and leave a very smooth finish.
@pmsilvei2 жыл бұрын
I love it 😍😎 What did you use for the window? Double acrylic?
@migru592 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your answer 👍 I used 8mm acrylic, but not double.
@chadjensenster2 жыл бұрын
Well done. I am going to try this as a method first with practice pieces, then I have a Clausing Lathe that has slightly worn ways. They are hardened so this may be much better for that
@Plus8Precision2 жыл бұрын
Hello Migru, was thinking of doing a video like this. I am a die maker in the auto industry in America. We call this spotting normally used on odd shaped die sections, trim steels, after heat treat. Spotting is and all around method to fit details together. I remember when I was an apprentice and scraperhands would be brought in to work on a machine, I used to think that type of work is to tedious for me. Now look how popular scraping has become at least on KZbin. Great video, I'm actually working on my atlas 618 lathe right now reclaiming all the wear surfaces. Mike - Plus8Precision
@migru592 жыл бұрын
Hi Mike, thank you very much for your contribution. I was also a toolmaker at a car manufacturer (now retired). My first contact with this type of surface machining was in the 70s during my toolmaker training. Since then it has been part of my daily work. I watched some of your videos: great work! I wish you a lot of fun with the restoration of the atlas 618 lathe. Greetings from Germany, Michael
@billyjones87062 жыл бұрын
I am not a machinist but I worked a piece of cast iron about 4x6 inches like this with a Dremmel and it worked .
@ctprjcstv39983 жыл бұрын
Have you heard anything about white hand syndrome?
@aleks1970nbg3 жыл бұрын
cool. Konstruktion macht guten Eindruck. Welchen Draht hast Du genommen und wieviel Strom braucht man? Habe schon eine CNC Multiplex Fräse gebaut und helfe demnächst einem Freund beim Bau einer CNC Schneidmaschine.
@migru593 жыл бұрын
Du brauchst Schneidedraht für Styropor (0,3 - 0,6mm dick) und ein regelbares Netzteil (12-24V / 0-5A). Schau mal bei rc-letmathe.de rein, dort ist gut beschrieben, was du brauchst.
@aleks1970nbg3 жыл бұрын
@@migru59 Danke. Die Elektronik wollte ich sowieso bei Letmathe nehmen als Satz - spart Zeit und Versandkosten ;). Das bei ihm ist vermutlich NiCr Draht? Mit wieviel Amper schneidest Du so große Blöcke? Ich habe Infos gefunden über NiCr, Konstantan und Stahldraht. Was eignet sich am besten?
@migru593 жыл бұрын
@@aleks1970nbg Ich habe meine Maschine schon lange nicht mehr. Mein Draht damals war ein Konstantan-Draht, der hat gut funktioniert. Mit dem Strom bzw. der Spannung musst du experimentieren. Je dicker/länger der Draht, umso höher musst du mit der Spannung gehen. Ist die Spannung zu niedrig, wird der Draht nicht heiß genug und schneidet nicht. Ist die Spannung zu hoch, schmilzt zu viel Styropor. Musst etwas experimentieren, wirst aber schnell zu einem guten Ergebnis kommen 😉
@mihailfelixdumitresc3 жыл бұрын
I did my Bridgeport's hardened Y way with a bench grinder and I was lucky enough to pull a 0,01 mm over 600 mm length. The X way I first cleaned it off of the crome coating and then I power scraped it. It took me forever and a day.
@janlolwitz9513 жыл бұрын
Finally a useful response. Thanks.
@mihailfelixdumitresc3 жыл бұрын
@@janlolwitz951 👍
@weldchip3 жыл бұрын
that could work for a mated non moving surface but for moving surfaces you need about 20points per 25x25mm, the peaks and valleys need to be between 1-2micron for carrying lubrication oil. watching you work on that tiny surface, all i can say is it would have been much more efficient to have done it with a manual hand scraper to a much higher standard. nice idea but scarping wouldn't exist if it could be done this way properly.
@migru593 жыл бұрын
This technique is used when machining sliding surfaces in tools and dies and works very well. The technology has to be adapted a little to the sliding surfaces. This technique has been around for more than 50 years and has largely replaced scraping because it is faster and still very accurate. In this way I have precisely machined all sliding surfaces of my milling machine and lathe. They work very, very well and precisely 😉 Did you try
@kravselj3 жыл бұрын
As a toolmaker in auto industry I do a lot of hand grinding with pneumatic or electric die grinders. For flat surfaces I prefer biger 25mm conical grinding stone, it produces very flat and even surface. Did a test on 250x150mm hardened steel. Surface was around 0.02mm low at the center. After 1/2 hour and around 10 grinding pases It was in few microns. So it can be done, but you must be very careful. Probably the best and fastest way would be to grind it with die grinder than scrape it for last 5 pases.
@migru593 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your answer, Kevin. I'm also a toolmaker in auto industry and I also use larger grinding stones with 6mm shank for larg work pieces. Greets Michael
@maurosegurah3 жыл бұрын
This is a great idea, could solve a problem I hv been working on... What bit do you use? If you had a reference for the bit that would be awesome. Thanks for the time invested in uploading the video.
@migru593 жыл бұрын
I used these grinding stones: www.bosch-diy.com/za/en/p/grinding-stone-set-2762874 You can also use white, gray or brown grinding stones. For sharpening the grinding stones you need a Slider / Grinding Stone (Grain 30 up to 120). For sharpening the grinding stones see my other video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIqaf5aqq8ejpJI
@morphius20033 жыл бұрын
I think this is a good idea. I used it, to get a compound slide to reasonable flatness. I did the finishing with a hand scraper. Saved me a lot of time. And the result after finish scraping was perfect. Vielen Dank!
@koizhi38494 жыл бұрын
Is that surface plate made of steel
@migru594 жыл бұрын
Yes, it is made of steel. If necessary, you can use anything that is plane and smooth
@praiseengineering24934 жыл бұрын
Please let me know running parameters
@paulwomack58664 жыл бұрын
I've seen people use 115mm angle grinders for this purpose on large workpieces!!!
@NevilofMars5 жыл бұрын
I have been working on an unfinished, Busch Precision cast iron straight edge, a few minutes to an hour, for several weeks now. A very rough bar of cast iron. I have a scraper tool about 18 inches long with a carbide scraper bit and recently started using a file as well. When I write "rough" I mean that the differences the height of one part of the straight edge to another is as much as .125 thousands of an inch! It has been very slow going. Before seeing this video, last week I started using a Dremel with a grinding stone. An American version of the Proxxon that is used in this video. The grinding stone is an orange one. I am not sure how that compares to the pink grinding stone. I will try that type of grind stone and see how it works. The work is going much faster now that I started with the grinding stone. Hopefully there will be no problem with the grains of the grinding stone embedding in the cast iron. I have been bluing the straight edge on a cast iron surface plate. I will know if there is embedded particles of the grind stone when I clean the bluing off it. If there are lots of tiny circles on it, then there were. But, when using the carbide scraper bit, I was taught to use a small sharpening stone to smooth out any ridges left after scraping and before re-bluing the part being scraped. I am sure there were no abrasive grains of the stone embedded with that. In regards to the issue of grinders embedding grains into the metal, I read on a hobby machinist forum where a guy wrote about a large, precision machine that was being scraped and rebuilt, in place, where he worked. He wrote that the man climbed up on the machine and began to use a 4 inch angle grinder on the ways of the large machine. He had to walk away at that point. So, if an employee of a professional scraping and rebuild shop would use a grinder on machines then they must know that it will not embed abrasive particles in the metal.
@migru595 жыл бұрын
What do you mean with .125 thousends of an inch? Do you mean .125 inch or .00125 inch? Is the difference of the high .125 inch and the workpiece is large, then the dremel will be overloaded quickly. For your information: I am a toolmaker and in our company we use this grinder: www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/products/ggs-28-lce-0601221100 If a lot of material needs to be grindet, we use this: www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/products/ggs-8-sh-0601214300 Makita also has good die grinder. For small workpieces as in my video you can use the dremel. The grindstone is not that important at first. With some grindstones you can remove more material, with other grindstones you can grind finer. It is important that you sharpen the grindstone again and again, as I show it in the video. It will not embed abrasive particles in the metal. You will see. Tell me if you want more information.
@migru595 жыл бұрын
@Nevil Oh, 1/8 of an inch, that's realy a lot. That's probably too much for that little Dremel. I would take a die grinder with more power or maybe an angle grinder
@TheDIMONART5 жыл бұрын
Can i use angle grinder for this method? And cutting disc?
@atalaysurmeli2653 Жыл бұрын
@@migru59 Dear Michael First of all, thank you very much for your video it is very helpful. Your method is widely used by professionals in many countries renovating machine tool slide ways if the layer to be removed is thick or the surface is hard. It is not considered economical to scrape a layer thicker than 0.05 mm by hand. Therefore, a layer over 0.05 mm is considered thick. But removing a 0.9 mm thick layer with a Dremel would be almost impossible, even for the part you process in the video. A lot of professionals at east-Europa and Asia on you tube use 115 mm angle grinder even for 0.02 mm. There are even those who do the finishing process with angle grinders. The professionals have developed skills to do very precise work with 115 mm angle grinders despite being large and heavy. For this, they use cut-off wheel with a thickness of 1-2 mm. They blunt the working edge by sharpening stone, as you do, to prevent the stone from cutting deeply. Even if mini grinders like the Dremel were much more comfortable to work with, they wouldn't work on large machines and professional work. Because they are made for amateurish small jobs. They are not suitable for long-term use. Pneumatic ones are convenient but are compressor dependent. Mini grinders with flexible shaft, which are powered by universal motors with speed adjustment that can work continuously, may be suitable for long-term use. Greetings from Turkey. Atalay Surmeli
@migru59 Жыл бұрын
Hello Atalay Surmeli, Thank you for your reply. I've never used an angle grinder for this kind of work. But if a lot of material has to be removed, it makes sense. When I was still working as a toolmaker, I used this grinder for grinding work: www.bosch-professional.com/de/de/products/ggs-28-lce-0601221100 Most of the works were concave or convex surfaces and also sliding guides in pressing tools. At home I reworked the sliding guides of my milling machine with the Proxxon grinder. He is very well suited for this. Greetings from Germany Michael
@pedroernestobraga5 жыл бұрын
I m building my onw lathe and know how hard is scraping steel with scraper
@Spark-Hole5 жыл бұрын
Why it bent in the first place, from surface quality look like has been finnished from surface grinding machine. Or you are working on unstable material not suitable to be used as any standard tool.
@migru595 жыл бұрын
The workpiece is raw material
@nicolashuffman43125 жыл бұрын
Danka! I'm tempted to try HSS Dremel bits to avoid the possibility of embedding abrasive particles in the work piece.
@igordeoliveirasa66745 жыл бұрын
I dont have access to this pink rocket tool. Another DIY tip for using with a dremel?
@seanbosse5 жыл бұрын
Terrible idea you're introducing grinding particles into the material you're trying to flatten. If it's a way, that it'll just accelerate the ear. This is definitely not an alternative
@migru595 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your answer. Grinding does not introduce abrasive particles to enter the surface. If you have concerns you can use a grindstone for finishing. If your grinder is too loud, you can use earplugs. I do that too, if it's a longer work
@James-fs4rn5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing. I've seen this technique use on hardened ways.
@hebrewhammer10006 жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing! Did you intentionally use the abrasive ceramic over tungsten carbide bit?
@hebrewhammer10006 жыл бұрын
migru59 Awesome. The rotary tool you used had an abrasive ceramic tool bit and I was wondering why you didn't use a tungsten carbide tool bit. I thought that the tungsten carbide wood retain its Cutting Edge for longer and be a cleaner method. Have you only used the pink abrasive tool bits with this method? Thank you for responding.
@migru596 жыл бұрын
You are welcome :)
@stemer11496 жыл бұрын
Das ist genial, geht schnell und funktioniert. Ich habe derzeit weder Powerscraper noch Hartmetallhandschaber und habe mich bisher mit einer entspr. angeschliffenen alten Feile beholfen. Das ging, aber langsam und sah nicht aus. Mit Deiner Technik habe ich gestern in wenigen Durchgäbgen eine Fläche ca. 70x200mm für einen Selbstbau eben und tragend bekommen. Das Tragbild kann man vorzeigen und mit Gleitbahnöl hält der Schlitten regelrecht saugend. Vielen Dank.
@migru596 жыл бұрын
Super, das freut mich sehr! Und vielen Dank für das Feedback!
@xyzzyx64687 жыл бұрын
Very good. And it is NOT an "alternative" (it sounds little bit inferior) to scraping... It is separate, proper and legit technique in many industries (for example tool, die, and mold making). Rotary tools are used usually in roughing stage, then you switch to reciprocating motion (by machines or by hand, like classic stoning). If necessary you finish with lapping and/or polishing.
@ProfRonconi7 жыл бұрын
I have the exact same rotary tool, so I thought I'd give it a try. It works, to be sure, but it takes a great deal of practice to keep the surface flat enough, instead of turning it into a series of wave-like peaks and valleys. If you don't have a scraper, then this is indeed a good alternative; on the other hand, you could invest perhaps 100 euros and get a proper hand scraper, which will produce a flatter trough. In any case, I commend migru59 for providing food for thought; given that a Biax scraper is far beyond most hobbyists' resources, perhaps we should start looking for alternatives. How about a modified reciprocating saw? Or even a jigsaw?
@migru597 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your Reply! You're right, you need some practice. If you grind too large waves, maybee you press a bit too strong or you move the grinder too slowly over the surface. In the beginning, you can press a little bit more, in the end press less and less. The grinder should only slide over the surface. At the beginning of the video, the difference between highest and lowest point is 0.2mm. At the end less than 0.005mm. It is important to have a good concentric runout of the grinding pin (no vibrations). If it is possible to make a video of your work, I may help you better.
@ProfRonconi7 жыл бұрын
I won't publish the results of my attempt, because I mangled an - admittedly crappy - xy table badly! I just didn't realize how much material a grinding stone can remove . But I'm getting better. As soon as I get a decent result I'll publish it.
@stefanstamatov77256 жыл бұрын
im a hobby mashinist from Bulgaria and i modified one pneumatic tool for cleaning welds.its cheap and very accurate for me.i just brazed cabide milling cutter to a flat bar.i dont know the name of the tool but its hardened rods to a piston bodi
@stefanstamatov77256 жыл бұрын
i cant find any descent hand scraper or blue in Bulgaria
@zentex997 жыл бұрын
nice work
@gutlessband58257 жыл бұрын
Sweet video. Really dig this sort of thing. Would love to see more. Keep it up.
@goldminerat7 жыл бұрын
gibt es eine Bauanleitung?? Welche Software verwendest du??
@migru597 жыл бұрын
Eine Bauanleitung gibt es keine, aber hier ist der Bau von User "TICMIC" gut beschrieben: www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php/38265-Mechanische-Bauteile Als Software habe ich JEDICUT verwendet: www.aeropassion.net/index-en.php
@sssur327 жыл бұрын
Just wish that I could click on Thumbs Up more than once. Great idea! Thank you.
@migru597 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your feedback! What I show in this video is not an idea of mine. I am a toolmaker and it is quite a normal activity of a toolmaker. Let me know if you need more information.