@@carlalakins always cut on the smooth side. So, if you want the texture to be on your viewing side, yes, flip the pattern (so face of it is against the smooth glass) and glue it. When you finish with cutting and grinding, the texture side will fit into your spot.

@@secretzzzs hummm, maybe it was one of mine?!

@@SandyKJohnsonGlassworks yeah maybe its pink and red

@@niallwildwoode7373 glad it helps - guaranteed to give you better solder lines 😊

Some companies such as door and window manufacturers, use zinc instead of lead

glad it helps! Thank you

Yes, you can replace the ink tip with a diamond painting tip.

Yes she can! ❤

They make different thicknesses for the different foil widths

In order: 50/50 solder: Flat solder front, flip, flat solder back. 60/40 solder: finish solder back, flip and finish solder front.

@@SandyKJohnsonGlassworks Thank you! That is 4 times you solder a panel. Is that for strength?

First to solder together, 2nd for finish rounded lines

So glad this helped. I've learned so much over my career, I wanted to do a "brain dump" to help explain what, why and how for others 😊

Thank you, glad it helped

Hi, gosh, I don't know maybe 1/16 inch - whatever size the jumpring wire will go through. 1/8" would be a bit big I think.

You should be holding it on the sides, never on the top where the foil is. I've always thought this was a design flaw, I think it should peel the adhesive away at the top right before it goes onto the glass, not at the beginning, just because of this. Maybe the people that copied it and are manufacturing them now will figure out a way to change the design.

Yes, you can mix 104 and 96 - sparingly. Otherwise I use all 96 glass

Not sure what you are referring to - you cut in break lines to the plate

I no longer carry them. But try artglassville.com

No, you want to flux as you solder as it's a corrosive.

The made a 45 degree for octagonas and a 90 degree. You should be able to contact your local glass supplier for the 90, haven't seen a 45 available again.

I use a notcher on 1/8" zinc which makes a perfect 45 degree miter. For larger zinc, I always run the vertical side zinc from top to bottom and insert between them the top/bottom zinc. This helps transfer the weight of the panel all the way from top to bottom as well as a place to "bury" in my hangers (if not using a wood frame or inserting directly into the window space). As far as overlap/flat butt together vs 45 cut.... it's all going to be soldered over, so you won't see either one. The only time I would miter a 45 degree seam (VERY rarely) is if the corners might be seen (usually hanging high enough that you can see the corners) but most people don't even think about it.... they're looking at the window. Hope this all makes sense.

@@SandyKJohnsonGlassworks very cool thanks for all the insight!

Always try and support your local glass shop

Glad to help!

I would probably use 7/32 or 1/4" depending on design. Remember, there is no fudging with lead - glass has to be cut perfect. On Facebook, there is a guy named Jerry E England that has some great videos on lead work- its definitely worth the time to watch as he gives lots of tips! That is going to bea very large and heavy window, definitely have it framed in wood

Glad it helped

so glad it helps. My motto: keep it simple and easy

So glad it helped - trying to do a "brain dump" so my knowledge and experience isn't wasted or lost. Hugs my friend.

Foil rooler- yes I sell them on my etsy site Theglassflowercart.etsy.com

It's a separate video. Here's the link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqGron-tndyLZ80

Mongos stained glass is offering a version of it now. The original is no longer being made due to catastrophic warehouse fire.

So glad it helped- I like to kep things simple!

The clash at warehouse burned down last year so they are no longer made (inventory burned in fire) but I believe Someone is now making a "knock-off" available through Mongo's Stained Glass - Google search for Guy's Somer's store.