I had leaking injectors - this led to a carbon build up or whatever it was either in the catalytic converter or on the rotor edges. After spending three months and after spending £3000 on fixing this horrible car I just floored it to 9000 rpm for a few seconds and it cleared it and then it ran properly. I give up.

Yeah, they have a flytime of 12 hours I think. No airlines use the four engined planes anymore, or less do than a few years ago.

This was 100% fake Chinese copy - sold as a genuine, full price LUK clutch on ebay. It's always nice to find out when you've put everything back together again. IT might be your flywheel - fortunately, they seem to last for years and years, until you just can't take the noise.

No - PSV venting steam from blown head gasket from blow by on worn piston rings into the turbo and out of the exhaust. I wished it was that simple. New engine fixed it.

More of this please

Yes, the relearn function uses a seperate circuit using the rotation sensor on the gearbox. It could be the sensor at fault, but if it isn't just avoid months of work by getting a n ECU cloned from your existing one - it's cheap to do and there's loads that do it on the Roadster facebook groups.

@@DavidB-rx3km Did your car have other problems as well? Mine was driving fine until I put in a new clutch actuator, which caused the engine warning light to come on. I found that the gear angle sensor was broken due to water ingress. After fixing that, I was hoping a Shift fork learn from Delphi would clear the error but now I'm stuck with the procedure not completing and behaving similar to your video. Although it sometimes clunks only 2-3 times, other times longer like in the video and other times even longer still. But the P2035 error code remains. I'm thinking it's maybe a weak battery or bad replacement sensor...

@@Rob_W It genuinely sounds like a burnt out ECU from shorting 12v from possibly moitsure. You can take it out and examine the tracks coming off the pins on the circuit board if you want to check it before replacing it - it will only burn out near to the solder joints so quite easy to spot. BTW I damaged mine from touching two wires together for a split second twice and burnt out two different ECUs TWICE months apart! I've never had this before, but it seems easy to do on these Smart car electrical circuits.

@@DavidB-rx3km The ECU seems like a daunting and expensive thing to investigate, so I really don't want to mess with the ECU before I've checked all other possible causes. Did your car have no other problems apart from failing the Shift fork learn procedure? Was it possible to drive it?

I filmed one attempt of my Shift for learn: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIPPXmywo7yDj6c It's one where it doesn't time out and Delphi reports it "completed", but the error codes and three bars remain...

These screws are sealed in and have been in the car for nearly 40 years - of course they're not going to come out with a simple screwdriver - they're glued to stop thieves removing them. I have JIS screw drivers - I had one in an impact driver and everything else, I only work on Japanese cars. This is the way to do it if you can't get those bolts out which round off even if they're loose.

Removed the engine and put another one in - sump was pressurising and pushing white steam into the PCV and into the pipe that joins into the turbo. Original engine was completely knackered.

Not yet, I've just left the car and not looked at it for a month. I've changed the fluid and filter, and the gear shifter is next when I eventually find one that isn't £100+++.

I found the problem - the shifter mechanism was at fault - it's just a circuit board under the shifter. These came in a few other cars, like the ML has the same with tiptronic. You can just swap the very small circuit board. It works fine now.

Crankcase pressuring - if you have this, check the crank ventilation pipe into the pipe before the turbo, it'll be pumping out white steam/smoke. I scrapped the engine and put a new one in there.

@@DavidB-rx3km Thanks,you can see my video VW Jetta 1.9 TDI,where you can see cold start smoke,only for few seconds,later is all fine.

@@Srdjan77-RA That is usually injections leaking while switched off (leaking diesel into cylinder), or could be glow plugs not firing up. White smoke is 'unburnt diesel' in this case. :) I think that's normal on old diesels, they're just worn out.

@@DavidB-rx3km Thanks a lot👍

I had to swap the engine, it was completely worn out.

No I sold that about six years ago, I found a Cavalier SRi some old fella had since the 90's. :D

Just use a new 3mm HSS drill bit - you can buy packets of ten from Toolstation for a few pounds if you're in the UK

@@DavidB-rx3km i am from india. Having all these tools but scared that whether the bolts got damaged then those will be difficult to remove. Tried hammer screw driver but not able to extract . Will try to use this method now

@@dhruvvashishtmechanchisail4069 Yes, just a cheap HSS drill bit , but it has to be new/sharp, a blunt one won't do it. If you're having difficulty, start off with a 2mm, but don't go too far in, or the head will break off. The thing that unscrews the bolt is called a Screw Extractor. I did this method on 18+ of these door bolts, in about an hour. The ones I have were cheap and have lasted 10 years. :) Good luck!

@@DavidB-rx3km ok

@@DavidB-rx3km Brother here in this video whats the size of drill bit you have used?

The plate between the gearbox and engine is catching on the flywheel - it was bent from putting these ridiculously heavy 50kg 4WD gearboxes back in, I just removed it. ;)

Freno a mano e carburante !

Yes it was, just removed it as it was deformed. Has been fine for over a year.

I think it’s more serious than that …

@@DavidB-rx3km looks like the clutch actuator doesn't move 🤔

@@KRAM-zb2vc It's not the actuator, it's gearbox calibration that's making the noise. It failed after a few seconds because of a burnt out ECU because of a short on the the tiny engine start button circuit board on the gearknob.

That’s part of the charm! It’s a cute looking car I reckon

It was bought like this, everything worked though. It has since been swapped for a new one

@Todd Coon or is just worn out.. But yea key word correctly

@Todd Coon so proper use and care resulted in failure.. Ive only owned a dozen of them ..looks like he puts it in neutral.. But not like i give a shit.. Ive only stated the obvious from a video.. So unless you were their.. Or owned a samurai.. U wouldn't know

@Todd Coon transfer case my bad .. But who knows ..just didnt look like the transfer case shifter was in the right spot. Something cut loose. But they only bust under severe ABUSE or neglect.

I bought it like this you presumptious clod. Also did 500 miles straight on it after I bought it, a 40 year old vehicle. You have no idea.

@@DavidB-rx3km maybe but somone fubared it..

It sounds like the flywheel - if yours had a loose centre like mine did, I'm sure you would feel it in the car. LUK clutches are good, but I'm sure the one I bought was a cheap Chinese copy (sold at full price). I had to change mine five times - gearbox/subframe etc out every time.

I was told bearing on output shaft - nothing serious

Dawn KeyBalls unless said grinder was heard and owner runs out with a bat a takes it across your lips

Good idea if you have a cordless grinder.

not true.. those 2 fat apes "cutting it off" video is fake.. took the RAC 2 hours !

I changed the turbo for a brand new one - but the oil continued to seep through the seals. It was the crankcase filter which was clogged solid. I changed the filter and it relieved the pressure and no longer forced came through the seal on the turbo. So the turbo wasn't really needed - it's pretty much always the crankcase filter on top of the engine, which is upgraded to the 'vortex' style filter. If it's blocked it over-pressurises the oil system and the only place the oil can go is through the turbo seals as it's the only place that isn't 'closed' to the atmosphere. :)

David B thank you. I had a oil leakage 1 year a go and I removed this filter (not replaced but removed, I've heard other bimmers which had removed it without problem), after that I haven't had any problem. The last week it smoked as yours in the video and I had the connector of the pierbug valve of the turbo cropped (like other times in the past, it is 3 times I adjust it), I adjusted it and now it doesn't smoke. I will clean well the turbo placement and all that area of engine, insert a new filter and I will see if it leaks again. It is better to replace the crankcase filter every 2-3 times we change the oil, otherwise it can damage the turbo.

Did it fix it? I had a hole in one of my intercooler pipes and it reduced the amount of smoke, also improved performance.

is this car stock turbo or it have been installed?

@@franciscosoares9647 Brand new stock turbo from BMW!