eso no suena saludable. Nada en esa area debería estar haciendo bulla. Cuando la bomba de vacío falla empieza con fuga de aceite y solo en casos severos (y extremadamente raro) se quiebra en fin del árbol de leva q mueva la bomba. Pero si eso pasa, no creo q el motor este operando. A menos q contaminación de otros lados del motor a entrado a la bomba y no esta dejando q gire como debería. All en esa parte del motor tamblen es donde esta la cadena de tiempo (en el 2.5 la cadena en el trazero del motor, no en el frente por las poleas). Si la cadena esta estirada o el tensionador de la cadena esta flojo/ a fallado, esto de dará sonido como lo que estas escuchando.Esto es un sospechoso mas probable q la bomba de vacío haciendo semejante bulla.

absolutamente 100%. Entre ambos tunes, completamente cambio la experiencia de manejar el carro. Maneja completamente distinto ahora (de manera positiva también). No me quejo de nada con esto

I appreciate it! And I totally agree with you. If I had more space, and a lift in my home garage I would have just pulled dropped the engine- which is not as hard as people think it is when you have a lift and a table that can hold the weight. But I had neither in my home garage and did it how the majority of people would end up having to do it lol. Maybe in my next house I can step up to a 3-car garage and I can put a lift on that 3rd spot (#goals) lol.

Nope. Different sensor with different connector

Thank you 👏🏽

¡Gracias, me alegro de que te guste!

ECSTuning. El enlace esta en la descripcion :)

No more info than what i provided on the video. It’s a pretty straightforward job. Maybe that the snap-ring that secures it into place can be a pain to remove… but thats the case with almost any snap-ring that hasn’t come off in years lol.

Have you tried going into the X5 fb group, or the xoutpost forums with this question? You’re likely to get an answer much quicker there. Good luck!

That is a great idea to flush the core when you're in there!

On these headlights, highbeam works exactly as it should. Electromagnetic shutter behind the projector pops down when you activate high beams and the pattern raises as it should.

Holding up fine still. Note thst i had a coworker order it and immediately had an issue with a faulty PCV diaphragm. He contacted JDMSPEED with the situation and they sent him a new one right away. So im glad to see that they stand behind their product

It would have worked had i known that i would need it! At the time of purchase it did not seem like it was needed. The SW controls module was an additional OPTIONAL thing if i wanted to keep SW button function- which i didnt care for at the price they wanted lol. They did not make it clear that the remote12v signal from factory is fed through the SW harness. Had i known that, i would have just bought the module and be done with it lol. It is what it is. I worked around it once i found out what black fuse locations in the fuse box were ignition-switched and not constant 12v :)

Appreciate it!

I think so too! Thanks!

Unfortunately the vendor didn’t see enough interest to move forward with full production. But if you are willing to deal with the long freight times from China, I’ve noticed people are having success with sellers on AliBaba. So you can try there

Fcpeuro.com, ecstuning.com

Cant tell ya at this point. This was 2 yrs ago and i threw them out once I verified all was working lol

Not at all. I know that was a common thing when the Helix first came out that had the x4 overdrive. I believe they stopped making that unit and now just stuck to the x3 unit which is this unit

@ damn I didn’t know they reverted back to x3 but thanks man I’m definitely going to run it now

Thank you!

If you have EWG then you do not have a vacuum pipe feeding the valve cover’s vacuum canister, so you also would not have any lines on the side of the valve cover :). Mine was PWG so it uses all that

Aqui riendome al “patada a los kiwis” jajaja

Hope it helped! And that is just cloth-backed electrical tape. Also known as wiring harness tape. FROM MY EXPERIENCE in hot climates it holds up better than normal vinyl electric tape. I took it all off the car when i sold it back in August and that tape was still nice and tight.

Fronts are 245/40-19, rears are 275/35-19. I was using Continental DWS06 Plus tires.

@ nice. Thank you I appreciate it

@ I was also under the expression the wheels were square spec. But I'm assuming the front is 8.5 and rear is 9.5 ?

@@doubyjocelyn6134 thats correct! On my m-sport they are a staggered set. You are right on the widths. Also note- I was using spacers WITH longer bolts. The fronts I ran 10mm spacers, the rears were 15mm spacers.

@@SHWELL11 that would be awesome if it worked lol. Lmk if you want me to take end-to-end measurements for you to check against the ones on the A4

Thanks! Hope it was helpful

No se cuanto es el valor de 10 mil pesos en dolares (no se en que pais estas para hacer el intercambio).

Glad it was helpful!

?

@turbospool suspension protection cap black colour.you forgot to put it back at new install.check video time 7:23

Los enlaces a lo que use estan en la descripcion, pero use Liquimoly Moligen 5W-40 :)

Gracias Don Grant!

I do not remember, but check the links in the description. I know I listed the bump stops used there

Nice!!

No, todas 5 son iguales y intercambianles en este motor.

Estas hablando de el set del frente o de las puertas de atras? Nota q yo hice ambos metodos q mencionas. En las bocinas delanteras donde ya tenia tweeters, reemplaze los tweeters y use el cablero original (dado q esos tweeters obtienen señal directa del radio). El par de las puertas trazeras mi Jetta no tenia tweeters. Para esas use el cablero de las nuevas bocinas a los tweeters nuevos.

Maaaaaaan I totally agree with that! But i promised myself I wouldn’t lower this car. The roads here are HORRENDOUS from the winter ice lol. I just don’t want to deal with the paranoia of driving a lowered car in these roads as I have with all my past cars. It’s nice having just enough ground clearance to not worry about it :)

Yes, absolutely it has been a great improvement. I too had dead woofers (I think the front driver was blown and one of the rears was just not putting out any sound, if I remember correctly). My setup with these speakers, the foam rings, sound deadening, and the Boss head unit to power them- night and day difference compared to the muffled original system. Just clean sound any any volume.

​@@turbospool Hell yeah, I just picked myself a pair off Crutchfield! Dreading removing those rivets though, hahaha.

@ ​​⁠lol!! Yea I wasnt happy about it either! But it gave me an excuse to finally buy a riv-nut gun. I thoughtcc I’d use it more but almost 2 yrs later… thats still the only time I’ve used it lolol

I can't guarantee that. My diagnosis process in my car had all signs pointing at 2 possibilities, and the heater control valve was the most likely culprit. It's almost impossible to tell you yes or no without having the car in front of me to diag myself. But GENERALLY, depending on how the 2 solenoids of the heater control valve get stuck- yes, it can make it so that during AC operation you have heat flowing and no heat during heater operation. But be aware, the same can happen in other scenarios. For example, having multiple components not functioning at the same time like the thermostat and a clogged up heater matrix, or even damaged wiring leading up to the heater control valve, and faulty blend door actuators in your HVAC box under the dash. Again, lots of possibilities that need to get properly diagnosed that can cause your issue. Best of luck!

Mine has been solid. Car is now sold, but new owner is a coworker so i see the car daily. And no issues with it still

@@turbospoolthanks man Imma buy this one instead then bc fcp euros kit is $300 right now

@@chris8942​​⁠dang that’s steep! Yea Id go with this for sure. They stand by their product for any warranty issues too. I had a friend install it on his 535 and kept getting vacuum control issues. Turned out to be a faulty PCV diaphragm in the VC out the box. He contacted them and they immediately sent him out a replacement VC. So that was good to see

Thank you!!

Hola! El soporte es de marca Corteco, el inserto es de ECS.

Nope. Nothing to do with the evap system

@turbospool my car has been given me evaporative Emissions System issues but there are not leak or cracks. I have changed the solenoid valve and MAP sensor but still check engine light

@@ShenHer24 i would look at what exact codes you’re getting as my starting point. Something it’s as simple as a bad gas cap or evap check valve, and other times can be more involved like a bad leak diagnostics module.

@turbospool ok

Thanks! And yes they are!

si, se a mejorado notablemente. Todavia se siente al inicio, pero no es tan mal que como era al principio. Entonces no te preocupes, se va a mejorar con el tiempo. Tambien una sugerencia- noto que si esperas a que bajen las revoluciones del motor abajo de 1000rpm antes de retroceder la vibracion es mucho menos comparado a arrancar el motor e inmediatamente darle a retrocedes.

correct, the rears also have a covered box where these harnesses can be removed

te recomendo preguntarle a mecanicos en tu area para una respuesta mas rapida. Por mi lado ni te pudiera dar una idea por el hecho que lo hice por mi mismo tomando mi tiempo tranquilito. Ni idea cuanto seria para un taller hacerlo por mi area ($$$)