Stock gap is perfectly fine for that :-). I ran stage 2+ E30 tune for over a year and never had an issue with spark blowout

Im turning 40 soon so ai totally get it. I hate the stench of a catless DP. This cut it down SIGNIFICANTLY. You can still smell it if you turn the car on in the garage on cold start. But once out of that, it is much less noticeable. Also if down the road you run ethanol mix like me with E50 mix, you dont smell the fuel stank. Just sweet corn lol. So the 3.5” vs 4” DP stuff- if you have a an earlier F10 with PWG (pneumatic wastegate, you run a 3.5” DP). If you have an LCI F10 with EWG (electronic wastegate) you order the 4”. The turbine housings are different between the two and you have to order the correct diameter DP to mate up either the turbine outlet. Hope that helps!

Nice! No issues! Has been solid since day one thankfully

Im pretty sure I used a large offset wrench to secure the nut on the other side. See 3:07 I had a 22/23mm offset wrench but also a 1/2” drive with some similar imperial size socket in case the offset couldn’t reach

@@turbospool man I did not realized the nut was behind the diff smh lol but I got it off and the insert put on and it works perfect my car isn’t juking anymore when I accelerate!!!

@@540tv6 awesome!!! Glad you’re enjoying it now!

I actually upgraded from it last spring. Check my more recent videos for the Arc Terminator upgraded EKPS. It’s a fully upgraded assembly

@@turbospoolOh ok, thanks. Mind sharing link for that?

@@gerrygalvan7313 NEW ARC TERMINATOR EKPM3 ON MY BMW F10 kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIqyg3aiaJV8qNE here ya go

You bring up a great point! I never considered it personally. But thankfully it seems the N55 PCV diaphragm is strong enough to take 15psi no problem (as long as it’s in good health!). My friends at my BMW dealership told me their SnapOn smoke tester there also cranks it to 15psi and they don’t pull the cap (took a while to respond to you because I wanted to check this with more than just one tech- 4 of them confirmed they don’t)… weather thats good or not thats a different story 😂 but that’s what I was told

No creo hermano. Cuando la bomba de vacio falla te deja el pedal super duro. Pedal al piso= aire en el sistema O una fuga de liquido de freno en algun lado (si liquido puede salir, aire puede entrar). Te recomiendo no menejar el carro hasta q encuentres y arregles esta fuga

I appreciate that! Thanks!

Absolutely it is. It’s a common leak point with age. I did it when i first got the car in 2019 and it’s easy to access on a RWD. I couldn’t tell you on the Xdrive though as that passenger axle bracket may be on the way. Hopefully someone here with an Xdrive can answer it for you!

Negative. The fronts are different because of the axles having to go through the bottom. You have to get coilovers SPECIFICALLY for x-drive unfortunately

Any time! Thank you for watching!

Nothing against Iridiums at all, but for the usage that this car sees there was no need to spend the extra money for iridiums. They would not have hurt anything at all! But the extra cost would not have yielded any difference being that this is a totally stock commuter that runs on 87 octane fuel. I only "upgraded" the coils because at the time they were literally the same price as the originals, lol.

"adaptadores". Los mios llegaron con los parlantes (paquete por Crutchfield)

good question, but I would not know as I've never sat in an F10 with the HK system

Haha I appreciate the feedback and I agree. I caught that during editing after the fact unfortunately. I was still learning to use the new mic setup. Shouldn’t happen moving forward!

@@turbospool really? your editing software doesn't have the ability to do convert mono to stereo by filling both channels? There's a post on the Adobe forums "How do I convert a mono clip (already on the timeline) to a stereo clip?" from back in 2017 that might help if you're using premiere, but all video editing software that I'm aware of has methods for copying a left/mono channel to stereo, even if sometimes it's convoluted. also, please do some practice recordings just for yourself, you're clipping really hard due to gain being too high. it's a better to have a slightly lower source and then use a compressor in post if you're too quiet.

Yes it is! But here’s a tip to save you some money- if you have a Puma Store (the maker of most current BMW gear) nearby, go to there and buy it there. Should be cheaper than at a dealer with their markup. They typically have a whole section for BMW gear.

@@turbospool good call! I checked on the Puma site, and I don't see that exact one that you got. Some other nice ones, but I dig that one the most haha!

@@JDMsohc dang! They must have ended is with the season. Booo! Lol yea mine is maybe 2yo.

Hot glued into place

Thank you much!

Thank you! Enjoy the weekend

Thanks! Very happy with it

You're welcome!

Sounds excellent! And yes wrap them!

Been about a year and a half, 3 road trips now (OK-NC, OK-TX, and OK-LA) and they definitely still feel like new. Bilsteins have that reputation though- holding their brand new feel much longer than others :-). Miles- I don’t recall exactly but just below 6,000 miles in the time

Sorry what are you referring to as the crank vacuum valley? I tried googling it and did not find anything named that.

@turbospool sorry , the chamber for the vacuum, you said you had an internal leak

@@Hennessyr24 ah yes! So i looked it over and I couldn’t see any cracks. But I also didnt take the time to clean it and shine a light to it to check. I just didnt see any obvious cracks. But micro-fractures could cause all this and not be easily visible. And the integral vacuum canister was FULL of oil. As you notice on the video I had tipped over the old valve cover to check the canister and oil had poured out of it.

@turbospool on my second valve cover this year, both elring brand with oil in the vacuum chamber , dripping oil from the boost solenoid and consuming about 1qt per 1k miles. Before the n55+ turbo up grade It Didn't consume any oil in 5k intervals, maybe 🤔 is the higher boost . Just replaced the vacuum pump valve ,the diaphragm was gone hopefully that solve my oil consumption.

@@Hennessyr24 wow!! Yea that’s a lot! If the new vacuum pump does not fix the issue, i recommend you do a compression test. It’s not a common issue with N55s but worth checking if this new pump doesnt fix it

Nope! Thankfully I never had that happen to me.

I actually WANT to put the cover back on just to decrease all the fine dust build up from living in Oklahoma. I just have to modify it to clear the new routing of my vent lines from the Bimmerhaus Performance intake. And zero issues with the VC! No leaks and the clear cost finish is intact despite the heat cycling .

It’s been great! Looking good and working as intended

@@turbospool no problems with the bolts or gaskets it came with?

@@Nolimitf22 correct. All working as intended so far

Absolutely! Hope it helps you out!

Gracias! Si, modificar el mapa es requerido. Siertos programas- comp por ejemplo mi MHD, tienen una option para seleccionar si el motor tiene un Helix. Pero esta opcion no esta disponible en todas plataformas. En mi F10 por ejemplo no lo tenia. Pero con el turbo grande y eso yo ya andaba con un tune custom. Solo le dije a mo tuner q estaba instalando el Helix y el me mando una revision del tune que operaba con el Helix.

Been about a year and a half since i did this and so far the tweeters are still solid in place, thankfully :)

Oh man… yes I do plan to get to it. But it is at the bottom of my to-do list lol. Ive been debating doing it myself or having an interior upholstery shop do it so they can best match the VW fabric. We’ll see when the time comes

@@turbospool cheapest I’ve been quoted out here in CA is $450

@@shaggymunky eeek! Man for that Id buy the VW one. A few years ago (maybe around 2018) i got a quote for the full headliner assembly and it was like $530. Who knows now with inflation through. At that price Id definitely do it myself and just buy a roll gray headliner fabric and a couple cans of 3M headliner adhesive

Mine did not have a cover to remove. I had clean access to the valve once the two lines were unbolted from it. You get s good view at 9:54, lines removed at 10:31, valve removed at 10:36. Maybe in other years they added a cover that I dont have on mine?

@@turbospool I see. I thought you might have left that part out. Mine is a 2008. I did figure out how to remove it. There is one 10 mm nut and two clips. Thanks. I think my issue may be the AC control valve but I’m going to replace the expansion valve at the same time since o would have to evacuate the system and replace the refrigerant for each procedure anyway. I would rather just do it once. Both parts are relatively inexpensive so I may as well.

@@texyat7388 exactly, that's the way to do it! Good luck!

I mentioned that you have to support the engine, then unbolt the motor mounts (3 10mm bolts each), disconnect the charge pipe and boost pipe, and you can start lifting carefully

@@turbospool Ok I see, I thought it was just the top bolt that needs to be unscrewed not the whole engine mount. I thought it was only 1 screw on each side on the top where the support brackets to hold the engine. So, I need to also remove the 3 bolts on both engine mounts as well? thanks

They are lighter than the original single-pistons I had!

@@turbospool thanks for the quick response! Just ordered them now!

It just worked as intended. These headlights were 100% Plug and Play

You wont regret it! Im still smiling when i pop my hood and see it.

@@turbospool did you figure out what the hex bolt is for yet?? I spent 400 on my wife’s x3 valve cover with lifetime warranty and decided to go your route for mine. Thanks for the layout of the bolts. I put them in place already and also was checking to see if I got all my bolts in the bag. My wife actually thought the aluminum one was more expensive by the look and quality. Looks more amazing in person!

@@freddieruger1 nice!!! And dude no i did not 😂 it just stayed in the bag and it’s in my workbench now. I found no need for it. So many in other platforms that use the N55 it gets used. But it was not needed on my F10

@@turbospool I’ll keep you posted when I get mine installed on Wednesday for that mystery bolt😆

Absolutely! If i were 20yo no problem! Lol but as a more mature man nowadays Im not dealing with that catless stuff anymore

This is just Part 1. There very next video released was Part 2 :-). Go check it out to see it finished and running

Difficult to diag without the car being in front of me. But what I would check is first the audio settings on the HU. Are you using an external amp or feeding the speakers directly from the HU?

@turbospool I'm not using any amp. All the settings seem normal, and I have tried resetting it.

@@GodofMushrooms did you check that the fuse in the back of the HU isn't blown? I forgot now if that fuse is for incoming or outgoing voltage. If the fuse is good, I would recommend you contact the vendor you bought the headunit from and see what they want you to check. You have have a faulty internal amp/ mosfet and could get it replaced by warranty.

@turbospool I'll check the fuse, but I took the head unit out of another car, and it was working fine. I found a video expalining how to install it from a company that makes a different harness than the one i have, so im going to try getting that harness and seeing if that works. Thanks for your help, brother.

Haha! That’s actually just a matter for the dog to lay on and not damage the leather/ makes it easier to clean all the dog hair. Here’s the link to it Honest Luxury Quilted Dog Car... www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT67145?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Correcto en ambas preguntas. Hay que evacuar el sistema antes de quitar la valvula… y luego hay que recargar el sistema

Not yet! Barely started tuning E50 last week. Feeling night and day already and we’re not even at 70% WGDC. So plenty of airflow still to go! I can say that if it’s your DD, this turbo is the way to go. The value, the midrange and top end, it’s awesome. Just remember that due to the dual force wastegate you WILL need to have custom tuning lined up. Car will not drive safely if you just install it and wait to do your tune later. So factor that into your planning if you have not already

Unknown to me at this point because I bought the struts as a set. See link in description. The vendor may have a part number breakdown of the contents :)

Thank you so much!

It COULD. Just depends if you actually have a bad sensor OR a faulty HPFP causing the sensor to read abnormally low pressure. Just he aware that this is a possibility. Hopefully in your case it’s just a bad sensor. That is MUCH cheaper and easier to replace than the HPFP.

Unfortunately it has clearcoat over it , so you would have to sand that down prior to painting. Sorry for the sad news! Lol i wanted to paint mine too until I saw that.

@@turbospool oh man, that sucks lol. But I think I’m about todo the same thing to mine. Whoever owned the car before me did the pcv replacement but didn’t clock it right so it’s randomly getting the screech of death haha.

@@chrispowell6633 oh no! Yea that’s annoying and it makes the car run like poop. Good luck getting it back to 100%!

@@turbospool thanks man! Keep up the good content 🤙🏼