You might want to reach out to Artec or Teraflex to ask about that.

yes. the size of the access plate or oil draining path would have to be huge in order to work properly; so we recommend dropping it. I suppose you could use a vacuum pump to remove it if you were in a hurry to get it done, but it's worth occasionally getting the whole cover off and inspecting anyhow.

Sorry for missing this one! Approximate weights are as listed here: Bumper and winch tray only: 48 lbs Bumper and winch tray w/ stinger (no lower skid plate): 61 lbs Bumper and winch tray w/ lower skid plate (no stinger): 57 lbs Bumper and winch tray w/ lower skid and w/ stinger: 70 lbs

@@a1racer441 been busy prepping 3 JLs to go to invasion.... They ship Monday and the shop JT gets the bay Tuesday to install the first set. After that 😉

@@NextVentureMotorsports awesome can't wait to see it. I'm just in the process of doing my lift have not even got tires and wheels yet. but I really like the 3-inch chop bumper and the fenders. you guys doing the inners for the rear to?

Good question! I have always used these LED bolt lights; gives us some redundancy if one light fails too. Have had a pair of these (or similar) on our Jeep Commando for the past 8 years without an issue. Worth noting though, use small round quick disconnects so they don't get in the way of changing license plates. I only change them when I have moved from one state to another, but it makes it quick and easy. www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-LED-Lighted-License-Plate-Bolts,103752.html?CSEGoogle&CSE&CSEGOOGLE&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkdO0BhDxARIsANkNcreq-P_hKpVDyDEBgqI9LgSZAFqk582BUfQolkOtiMK6PcnEi2w3wGkaAuhNEALw_wcB

You're not wrong! Orientated is our favorite here 😅

@@egcake the shorter option at 7" of height 🤙

@@NextVentureMotorsports Does a Harbor Freight Apex 12,000 lbs winch fit in that bumper?

@@egcake I don't know; but Tyler will be back in the office tomorrow if you want to give him a call at 970 462 7368 to see if he's had any discussions with other customers on it -- I'll see if I can find any information on dimensions however.

We took our sweet time; and camped 1 night. If you wanted to make it into 2 nights, or do the whole thing in most of 1 day I think either would be possible if the conditions allowed.

Made in house in the USA is the best way we've found 🤙

95-105 miles to be seeing the San Juans like that 😉

It was a very good time. Tempted to go back soon.

Thanks for asking Matt! I left these bare with the intention of pulling them off to do a paint match later after the video was recorded. The natural aluminum look has been growing on me however, since I've got aluminum corner armor, wheels, rear bumper and a silver/clear zinc front bumper that it all kind of ties into visually. What I've used before is called Sharkhide Metal Protectant. It's a clear coat that was developed for aluminum boat hulls in marine environments, and it does a great job of preventing the white oxidation you see if you leave the aluminum completely raw/bare.

Nobody’s perfect its ok

@@mattbrew11 I know.... every body's different... Have you ever made a flare that is OEM dimensions like that.....close to factory look???? Now , that I would buy....for all 3 of my Jeeps......JLs...and 1 JT... wife's doesn't count...

Everybody has different preferences, and with 50 different sets of rules in the states, sometimes it just comes down to that. We're lucky to be in Western Colorado/ Southern Utah most of the time 😅

If you fast forward to 3 minutes and 30 seconds, there is an overlay showing the factory fenders vs these front fender flares. They're about 5/8" narrower at the rear/top arch of the flare, just a touch wider at the very trailing edge (by the rock slider/front door) and about 3.5" narrower at the very leading edge where the LED is. This gives you ample coverage to the body/door (similar to factory) and also pulls the front corner in tighter to help keep the fender out of the rocks/obstacles.

Thank you . Nice looking product. I'm going to have to replace mine now😂

@@jameshenderson9228 thanks; let us know when you're ready and give us a call 😅

same 🔥gotta hit some more trails with you soon!

Yes; we are planning to bring the first set for the JK out to Trail Hero this October 🤙

in progress 😉

The Gladiator slider design pre-dates this design; so unfortunately it's not cut for this yet. We might consider a retrofit kit however in the future for the JL/JT sliders.

Thanks for asking! It can be run without the lower skid; however that will leave the sway bar disconnect motor on Rubicon models exposed unless you're deleting it or don't have it. This was designed for 40s; but we've seen 42" treps clear it as well with 68" wide axles.

It's a great trail; enjoy!

Some of our customers value having the factory exhaust; and this skid is less expensive than what it protects. There are probably cheaper options out there, but we were after strong light weight protection built from domestic 1/4" aluminum right here in the USA. It's not cheap. We also have quite a few customers who don't care for the factory units, and have ordered their belly skid systems for their 392s sans rear exhaust skid and are running the Magnaflow system here: www.magnaflow.com/products/19598-magnaflow-2021-2023-jeep-wrangler-street-series-cat-back-performance-exhaust-system I'm glad you found a different way forward that you like however 👍

@@NextVentureMotorsports Oh so it’s all Aluminum good deal looks like a great product.

We have been quietly working on exactly that for a late spring release 😅

@@NextVentureMotorsports ooooo yes dude! I don't want to drill holes and would love to use 3M tape like the rocker guards. I will patiently wait and order the rocker guards for now.

@@Joes432 my apologies; I assumed you meant no tail lamp holes as that's been requested a lot recently. 3M tape to apply the rocker guards is not something we have tested yet. If you really use them, you might really want them to be fastened and torqued down. We'll consider it though!

Many of the factory fogs in the steel bumper package have a different bolt pattern vs the more common 4 bolt pattern shown here that is used in all plastic bumpers and some steel bumpers from what we have seen. Your plastic bumper fogs should bolt right in, and it looks like Nacho makes an adapter bracket for the same bolt pattern we use right here: www.nachooffroadtechnology.com/products/v3jw1

Thanks for the reply and answers. @@NextVentureMotorsports

Thanks for asking! In my experience; if you are only pulling the bottom 6 bolts and not touching the diff cover you won't lose any fluid. The seal usually takes a bit of a tap to break free after all 12 bolts are out. Your results of course may vary!

@@NextVentureMotorsports thanks for the response. That’s makes sense. Btw… you guys make some awesome stuff!

The Rock Krawler suspension long arm kits are going to require minimal modification. The spacer between the transmission crossmember and the fuel tank/transfer case skids is removed and replaced with the RK front long arm brace. Depending on which rear suspension setup you go with, some modification with a cutoff wheel may be required on part of the fuel tank skid flange -- but it's fairly simple to mark, cutoff and clean up. We have seen a few Teraflex and EVO kits out our way and on our lift; the Teraflex kits can sometimes run into an issue of the front brace underneath the transmission interfering with the engine/trans skid however and even the TF shop rigs will just exclude that component to run skids.

Sounds like we missed shipping some hardware on yours. Give us a call and we can get you taken care of! -Dan

Thank you so much, will give you guys a call today!

Paint first and then assembly is the ideal order. UHMW goes on after the paint dries or you can end up with a mess😅

Sorry to hear it! This was one of our first videos, and the audio inside Adobe while editing it sounded quite a bit different after it was output for upload. We've learned a bit in the past year on how to do a bit better. If you've got any questions on this kit feel free to give us a call or send an email however!

It's a good question and we'll have to add that to the FAQs for all the JL/JT skid systems! You can use a conventional M10 hex nut and washer in place of the nut-cert in that location if it spins and is removed. It's not ideal, but luckily it's not a blind hole. The hardest part is getting the old nut-cert removed entirely if it does spin; heat and some vice grips may do the trick if you land in that situation however.