Thank you for sharing your expertise! The syringe/flicking/up/down instructions never made much sensor to me coming from a person who maintains their own car brakes.

Loris was thinking of this lesson on his world champ winning run.

Spot on mate, thanks for that 👍🏻

Even though you use the rear brakes more. The rear brakes are not holding back the entire weight if the rider and the bike like the front brake. The rear tire will skid way before the front brake with the same brake effort.

The boiling point of mineral oil can vary significantly based on its specific composition, but it generally ranges from 300 to 400°C (572 to 752°F) at atmospheric pressure. When subjected to a vacuum, the boiling point of a substance decreases. For mineral oil, under a vacuum of around 1 mmHg (approximately 1 torr), the boiling point can be reduced to around 150 to 200°C (302 to 392°F). It's important to note that the exact boiling point under vacuum conditions will depend on the specific type of mineral oil and the degree of vacuum applied. For precise applications, referring to detailed specifications or conducting empirical measurements under controlled conditions is recommended.

This method should also expel any water that's in there, as it will tend to sink below the oil. Very nice!

Man I did this the other week. Had I known about this method I'd of been bleeding my own brakes all the time. THANK YOU. It was so simple and took like 30mins

There is still air coming out of the funnel when I “flick” the lever

Does this bleed method works for all brakes?

This worked for me. Needed a second bleed & an additional gentle whack of the caliper with a spanner to encourage the last bubbles out. Seems to have sorted it though. Thank you 👍

3 years later I come by this video, well I'll be damned. I wish more people shared this info because inconsistent Shimano brakes seem to be more than common.

Was that a "patriotic" shot (between the flags)? maybe? maybe not? Nice shot either way, lots to deconstruct if so desired. Or maybe not.

Will my hands get as trashed as Marshy’s if I follow this procedure without using gloves?! 😮

You guys are the best Santa Cruz syndicate PA awesome mechanic

I wonder if anyone else remembers Greg jumping cars on a motocross bike when he was younger and still in school? I grew up around him and everything he did was beyond belief and was always a friendly guy… a true maritzburg legend 🤩🙌😎

Because when you are heading downhill you use the brakes the most and the centre of gravity is nearer the front wheel contact patch than the rear. It's far easier to lock up the rear than the front in any braking situation, even on the flat your centre of gravity moves forward under braking. Having said all that I personally run 230mm FR and 203mm RE as I ride a mix of steep technical and long fast downhill. I find the larger rotor deals with drag brake heat more and gives better modulation, I do not skid, ever. Skidding means you are out of control. I also use my front brake mid corner to move my ride line wider if i need to or scrub speed with it at the same time as using the rear. To do this you need proper cornering and braking technique, with that you won't wash the front wheel out.

*DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS:* 1. Preparation: - Use genuine Shimano hydraulic mineral oil. - Tools: Shimano bleed bucket and holder, 2.5mm, 3mm, 7mm, 5mm Allen keys, Phillips screwdriver, clean and dirty rags. 2. Initial Setup: - Remove cap screw from lever with 2.5mm Allen key. - Attach bleed bucket. - Loosen free stroke screw on lever ~8mm with Phillips screwdriver. 3. Brake Pad Removal: - Remove pads using 3mm Allen key. - Store pads safely. - Position bike on stand for flat levers. 4. Caliper Adjustment: - Detach caliper from bike frame. - Remove bleed nipple from caliper with 7mm Allen key. 5. Bleeding Process: - Allow oil flow from bucket through line to caliper. - Tip caliper to release trapped air. - Avoid syringe use at bleed nipple. 6. Cleaning Pistons: - Clean around pistons with dirty rag. - Remove all oil from caliper with clean rag. - Push pistons back gently with 5mm Allen key. 7. Brake Pad Maintenance: - Wet pads, rub together. - Clean pad holding pin until shiny. 8. Reassembly and Adjustment: - Reinsert pads, secure pin. - Center caliper over disc. 9. Final Bleeding and Adjustment: - Squeeze brake lever for air expulsion. - Adjust free stroke screw for lever feel. - Match lever distance to rider preference. 10. Final Checks: - Test for sharp, responsive brake feel. - Reinsert bleed nipple, clean spills.

The Dallas Theme Song you old Barstards

If anyone wants to try those tacos, hit up Ricky at RainForest Bar & Grill in Highlands, NC. His food truck provided the eats at that race.

Can you use this method on TRP Trail / D-HR brakes?

But you have to take into account inertia and weight transfer elements of riding

Why no videos this year? 😢

Tried it out. 200mm front and 220mm on the back. Works way better than the other way around. The front brake gets more adjustable and the backwheel comes loose easelier.

Jordi looks like he wants to Jill himself. He looks like he hates his job 😅😅😅 it’s gotta suck to feel like that about your job. I’d quit

amazing all the junk needed to service what should be a simple bicycle. LOL

on my enduro stock was 203f 203r but the rear just locks up too easily, since I got a 180r it feels much better balance. Look at not just size of rotor but also thickness and if that rotor is meant for intened use. For example my 130mm trail bike is 203f 180 rear but is only 1.8mm thick with organic pads and is meant for trail riding. While my 161mm enduro is 203f now 180r but is 2mm thickness with metallic pads and the rotors are meant for more gravity focus.

I'm so grateful for this video! I had some air trapped in the line & this method was way more efficient at getting bubbles out, probably because the fluid can flow out so much faster.

it's not just braking power, it's heat management. The larger rotors are going to run cooler given the same stopping usage. I also use way more rear brake than front most of the time. A rear wheel skid is no big deal, a front wheel skid is often carnage.

Whoa. I just did this exactly like the video and omg, that was the most pleasant, painless non-fiddly bleed I've ever done. Brakes feel awesome. THANKS!

My friend put this bike together for his son and before I knew it he was done kzbin.infoUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L When the son came to put it together he was surprised to see it was already done. All he had to do was take the bike to get air and be on his way. My friend did not have any major problems putting this bike together; small issue was putting one of the brakes on straight; however when the son got home he was able to fix it. The bike rides well gears move correctly; good bike for the price. Wrote review after the son took the bike. Sorry.

But was this bleed really successful? At ~6:16min ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppq6c4l6nZajiqc ) it looks like there is too much travel in the lever - although calliper with disc pads is mounted on the frame with rotor inbetween the pads ...

Why didn't he use a degreaser to clean the caliper? Is there a reason not to use it?

So syndicate, why the black out guys what gives? I need my fix 😢

Shimano brakes are better than SRAM.

2023 and still loving you guys. santa cruz numnber 1

MORE SYNDICATE BIKE CHECKS please!

☠BLACK BARON☠ Good Title ... good question 👍

Do you ate the presentation?

I’m not exactly sure what the outcome of all this was but l leant something? 😂

And those saying cus it locks up know nothing about break adjustment nor lever force, sounds like yall just squeeze and prey 😂

To those saying is for weight saving, a fart weights more than 15 203mm rotors, the difference between 140/160mm and 203mm is in grams, not even ounces,

No wonder this guy is riding SRAM RockShox & Trek now 😂 they were fed up with his ass

Larger rotors are for downhill riders.

Mi abuela gira mas rápido 🤪

What a legend

Ive got 160 front 180 rear 😂😂

On trails back brakes are used to slide the tail. To stop safer and faster best to use both brakes. As the body weight shifts forward and inertia, more force is on the front wheel to the ground, it needs a bigger rotor to stop.

On a motorcycle the front is used much more because of weight transfer, under hard straight line breaking all the weight transfers to the front and the back will lock up very easy, with minimal breaking force. So no need for very powerful back breaks. But in mountain biking I agree, why have a small back break? It get used more in that style of riding.

His anticipation of that taco is making this video just that much better

The rear tire is always (for me) with lower rolling resistance. I like 180/160 because I feel more the rear before locking. If I have let's say xt on the front and deore on the back maybe 180/180 will be fine