Thanks!

Good idea, thanks for sharing.

What's the rubber/metal strap towards the rear of the pan called?

Why didn't you turn ignition switch to ON position when bleeding so that proportioning valve does not limit flow of fluid - or use a proportioning valve brake bleeder tool installed where the proportioning valve electric switch is located? I understand if you don't do this bleeding can be difficult.

Mine jeep had a metal band instead of that rubber strap

Too bad Jeep chose to use a bad rear main seal design. One would think they would draw from GM's experience using two piece seals. At least with GM's design you could offset the parting lines of the seal ends. To be fair, after year 2000 Jeep did change the seal design to the conventional design of GM's.

What ratchet lift is that?

what/where are these sheet metal screws located?

you got any clue what the bolts look like at top of towner that bolts/screws the bronze shift plate in? (manual says nothing ) and what thread pitch they are ? Mine was all dissasembled a year ago and much of the parts where missing anyway so am at a bit of a loss.

what is those white plastic things called at 1':14" into the video ? I am missing one and cant seem to find them listed as a purchase item anywhere. The big on on bottom is very available.

Thanks very much for your demonstration of exactly where to apply the rtv and why. Big help, now i get it!! Great Video! Two thumbs up! 👍👍

Is there a specific reason you didn’t put the skid plate back?

Why the compulsive bed for the atv? You bolted it down with “no gap”. That means no anti-vibration protection was gained. Leads the question, waterproofing? No need got that with drain plugs. I do not understand…..

Awesome video! I wish my jeep looked like this! It could be confused for a surgical bay.

If you buy the Fel-pro gasket separately, it comes with the plastic alignment studs. If you buy the whole seal kit it does not.

cardboard is a smart trick, those little bastards are a huge PITA

High quality video! Great job, thanks for the info. I do the same thing with the bolts in the cardboard but we had a huge gust of wind sent mine everywhere 🤦‍♂️😂

Looks like jack handle will hit box

Use the cardboard from the box the radiator came out of and put it between the radiator and the fan shroud and fittings. Easy peasy

I figured out late last night/early morning youre gonna hate that filer when/ if you need a new lift pump or put an airdog or fass on it (i prefer airdog) Edit: P.S. you’re supposed to cycle the key on 6 times @ 30 seconds each to bleed air 👍

This is nearly exactly what I have done with my C182M. Musketeer, I used FreeCAD to draw the panel when I installed my Dynon Skyview HDX system. It turned out lovely. I've also done similar mods such as the door butlers which really are helpful keeping Cessna doors in check. For the panel, I created .STL files from FreeCAD and then took it to JAVRON in Brainerd, MN who happens to be 3 miles from my house. He specializes in J3 Cub kits (very enhanced with Roll engines and amphib floats) who took my STL files and a sheet of 0.090 6061-T6 Aluminum and within about 30 seconds it was cut on their laser cutter. There was a bit of polishing work to make the cuts perfect and smooth, then off to the powder coater for the final finish. I sent the panel to SteinAir outside of Minneapolis to laser engrave the required placards and the end result is in the airplane. The cut was extremely precise with all of the instrument holes perfectly aligned. I used the Dynon Installation manual to get the specs, and the Cessna Parts Manual which has to-scale drawings. They needed to be corrected for aspect ratios and actual panel height and width, but came out nearly perfectly the first time. I used the cardboard and lucite panel for rough fit and hand cut the cardboard and plastic, then made adjustments. Before I cut the final aluminum, I found a scrap piece of very thin (too thin) aluminum and laser cut the piece, glued some popsicle stick stiffeners to it and slid it into place, checked the fit of the PFD and controls and screw fits and it was perfect. Cut the final and the panel went together rapidly after that. To the author: I wish I'd started my project 3 months later, then I would have seen all your great ideas and confirmed that I did indeed to the job right. I'm going to pass this on to my IA so maybe he won't think I'm crazy anymore.

That's exactly what I want to do with my instrument panel. Do you mind telling who does the cutouts in the paper and aluminum, and does the laser etching?

The heater Ts i replaced them with the brass ones, peace of mind after 10 more years lol

If you don't mind me asking... what did it cost to have it rebuilt? I have a CJ7 with a 258 sounding exactly like that. On a cold start it doesn't sound but then when it gets warm, that's when it sounds like that.

How Many miles was on motor when u cleaned it and changed oil pan gasket

Congratulations 🎊

Great vid

After the rebuild, did you know what was wrong with it? I have a very similar ticking noise like your old video on my 258 6cil (CJ7)

Man, what a clean under-body. I am jealous...

hey man do you think you could possibly post an update on how the front no slip locker has been working after 1 year??

Did u use bearing grease on the bearing cap? Not sure what type of greas you used.

This is one of the best instructional videos that I have seen so far! I know this is a older video and you have mentioned that the repair has held up. If you still have the jeep, how is it holding up?

It’s going to leak in 6 months

Is there a part 2 anywhere?

Thanku for the torque!!! Nice work by the way!!

That is so clean. Nicely done!

Do u have a link for the pegs?

How are you liking the locker so far? I'm putting one on this weekend

My seal wouldn't come out even tapping it with a thick piece of copper. So I loosened the bearing caps to drop the crank a little, worked out the seal, then retightened and torqued the cap bolts.

Did the section in the front that wraps around the filter have a strap? Had one installed on our 22 and you can move that section side to side and up down a little.

Thanks very much my friend have removed wrangler sport gearbox 4 time just to replace the seal

What is the name to the puller? Bearing is out, but need to remove the race.

Thanks for a great video. Sorry about your aerospace tic. No silicone sealant needed for the body bolts. Most TJ's removed the carpet a long time ago. The floor board hole plugs were removed years ago. "we don't need no sealant goop in the holes". We let the water drain out. Carry On.

How much time did this take roughly?

I get it man. Didn’t work out well, leaking a bit. Oh well, I’ll give it another shot in a couple weeks after my body recovers from being on the garage floor for MANY hours. 😂 Thanks for the response! 🤙

Hey man....quick question. I just realized after installing my oil pan gasket on my 2000 TJ, I didn't push the oil pan gasket up into the grove in the back next to the rear main seal. Did I need to do that, or do you think the gasket seated properly when I tightened down the bolts? Make sense? Thanks for your time, and you did a great job with your video.

Hey man....quick question. I just realized after installing my oil pan gasket on my 2000 TJ, I didn't push the oil pan gasket up into the grove in the back next to the rear main seal. Did I need to do that, or do you think the gasket seated properly when I tightened down the bolts? Make sense? Thanks for your time, and you did a great job with your video. Chris

Great tip, most people have no idea how to properly remove these lock rings, myself included. Thanks!

How much torque did you put for the oil pan bolts ?

Nice sweatshirt!