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Пікірлер
@cobaltpica 6 күн бұрын
instead of the spot welder, i uses a Goot 40w soldering iron with boost mode. When the iron is hot, a quick 3 second dab on the terminals is good enough without heating up the liOn battery.
@kjwaa1296 11 күн бұрын
Hi, I know this is an old video but where did you find the part for replacement?
@Tinker_Box 11 күн бұрын
I got mine from AliExpress.
@manashara2504 14 күн бұрын
Did you happen to measure the diameter of the primary winding wire of the output transformer? Approximately by eye? What are the dimensions of transformer iron?
@Tinker_Box 14 күн бұрын
I didn't get in to that, so I can't say about the wires inside. The dimensions are 69mm(w) x 58(l) x 58(h). Have fun!
@YZoxK52m 15 күн бұрын
Thanks for the English voiceover! Great job!
@Tinker_Box 14 күн бұрын
😭 This was not easy to do but I might do better next time.
@manashara2504 16 күн бұрын
What are your impressions over time? Have you checked the quality of the output transformers? What inductance? I ordered one for myself. Your video inspired me. Thank you, I will watch and do it.
@Tinker_Box 15 күн бұрын
Sound quality is good, but mine has gotten 5u4g arcing. I guess the culprit are the capacitors next to it, so I tried different values and swapped to a new tube, but this second tube started to arc a few days ago. Not very fun 😭 but it could be different for you. Good luck!!
@manashara2504 15 күн бұрын
@@Tinker_Box Thank You!
@manashara2504 15 күн бұрын
@@Tinker_Box Specialists in tube amplifiers suggested that the first 150 uF capacitor was to blame for the breakdown of the kenotron. It should be reduced to 30-50 µF. And increase the second to 330-470 µF.
@Tinker_Box 15 күн бұрын
@@manashara2504 That was what I tried, although I went through different capacitor values combination. I’m not sure what my final values were but I’ll check it tomorrow and let you know..
@Tinker_Box 14 күн бұрын
@@manashara2504 I used two 33uFs in parallel for the primary, and left 150uF as it was for the secondary. Once my new 5U4C tube arrives, I plan to take off one of the two 33uFs, and see how it goes.
@user-uk8fo5ol4q 17 күн бұрын
I don't know how to connect power supply and audio input🥺
@Tinker_Box 16 күн бұрын
You play music from your Pi, and sound will come out through the headphone jack/output ports on this module, which is powered by you guess what, Pi again. 👌
@user-uk8fo5ol4q 16 күн бұрын
@@Tinker_Box so it cannot use without pi? I thought it can use without that and can also use with 5v power supply like charger and connect to cellphone to input of that DAC and out to connect to amplifier
@Tinker_Box 16 күн бұрын
@@user-uk8fo5ol4q okay now I see where you’re coming from. This and other modules like this are very primitive and simple ones than the DACs in a more everyday meaning. This one can only function by piggybacking on another computer. It cannot even be connected to USB or Bluetooth by itself.
@user-uk8fo5ol4q 16 күн бұрын
@@Tinker_Box oh that's why ok ok thank you for the info😉
@GillesBruno38 18 күн бұрын
nice project ! congrats 👌
@Tinker_Box 17 күн бұрын
Thx!
@Deses 20 күн бұрын
My left ear enjoyed it
@Tinker_Box 19 күн бұрын
😭
@21bCreations 20 күн бұрын
Thank you for sharing your experiences with moulding concrete. Very interesting. I certainly learned a lot from it 😅
@weijie-te5zd 23 күн бұрын
hii! great video! i jus realised all of my upgrades r the same as urs!! could u upload a link of ur printer.cfg file?
@Tinker_Box 23 күн бұрын
Thanks for the comments! Bad news is that I switched to another 3D printer so I lost the printer cfg for this old one. Sorry 😭
@weijie-te5zd 22 күн бұрын
@@Tinker_Boxohh its okayy
@weijie-te5zd 19 күн бұрын
do u know whats the acceleration u used?
@Tinker_Box 19 күн бұрын
@@weijie-te5zd Umm, I’m sorry cause I said I have already erased the SD card that had the klipper on it.
@weijie-te5zd 13 күн бұрын
@@Tinker_Box oh okok its ok
@enochpage1333 24 күн бұрын
You did great and thanks for the drawings. I have no one to play with but I’ve always wanted to make my own board.
@Tinker_Box 24 күн бұрын
Thanks!
@taekitata 27 күн бұрын
what kind of wood is used here?
@Tinker_Box 26 күн бұрын
It’s SPF
@taekitata 27 күн бұрын
OMG I am facing the saem issue with my IKEA tabel top, have been looking for solutions, looks like I will go with this idea, but can you share the proper dimension used? pls pls
@Tinker_Box 25 күн бұрын
My underframe is like 710x1460x740 mms(depth, width, height). Since IKEA changes the specs and availability of their table tops pretty often, you should really adapt your design to the actual measurement of the top you have :) Here's the link to the Autodesk Fusion file: a360.co/44WjXha
@vov202vov Ай бұрын
Probably the only cells that could handle 45W charging in two pieces are Samsung 30T, but again that would drastically limit the capacity of the power bank.
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
You’re right and thanks for the info. But as I talked in the video, it really doesn’t matter much in real usage. 😄
@MonaChan-im1jl Ай бұрын
Is that hifi? I guess no
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
Try it and you’ll be surprised!
@bigtst36 Ай бұрын
Note that the linux mcu implementation does not currently support directly connected neopixels. The current design using the Linux kernel interface does not allow this scenario because the kernel GPIO interface is not fast enough to provide the required pulse rates. Is this still valid?
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
Well, I can’t test it because I changed my printer. However, my design only controls the relay switch and it has nothing to do with Neopixels nor PWM. I believe it’ll still work.
@bigtst36 Ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box I've tried it with strip of ten leds without success. Have tried running data line from my rpi4 on gpio26 and also from printer via PB15. Have power coming from printer psu through a drok step down converter. Neither works for me, and all the tutorials I've watched, which is practically all of them, do not cover this very well.
@rendetsugogamer Ай бұрын
Wow That help so much! The fact that you show some common error messages and how to resolved them is really great ! Thx now klipper is working fine on my ender 3 :)
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
Great, and have fun with Klipper!
@justin4clayton Ай бұрын
Looks amazing! Any reason you couldn't incorporate a small amp chip and put a speaker inside it?
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
I also build speakers and amps, and I just wanted to connect them to airplay, that’s why. 🙂
@juliauwanto7424 Ай бұрын
The first channel atleast say something about the board,the subtitle help me understand the video,and the video so relaxing
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
Thanks!
@juliauwanto7424 Ай бұрын
Any link to this website 1.41?
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
It’s been a while since I made this video, but I believe I’ve searched with the chip numbers such as IP****. Sorry sir.
@cobar5342 Ай бұрын
Very good job. Point to point wiring is fun
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
🙂 thanks!
@rusexe Ай бұрын
THX for this tutorial^ will do the same on my ender. BTW Klipper work's normal on RPI zero or better leave on RPI3?
@martinh8539 12 күн бұрын
Zero 2w is fine if not using camera
@NihalFarhanKT 2 ай бұрын
Why do we set HiFIBerry DAC how it is linked with PCM5102
@Tinker_Box 2 ай бұрын
They are obviously compatible, I guess :)
@ediik 2 ай бұрын
i had 2 INR21700-40T from a project left and wanted to Build this Powerbank... it seems taht the Charging Curcuit only recognizes 2500 mah cells... anybody else with this problem_?
@dennisgu2506 2 ай бұрын
Great, thanks for sharing
@dennisgu2506 2 ай бұрын
Sound is awesome with the enclosure. The most noise is the vacuum. Great Build 👍🏻
@Tinker_Box 2 ай бұрын
Thanks!!
@jimb032 2 ай бұрын
This is so cool. I'm building it. It looks almost like your case is almost inspired by the Panasonic PanaPet R-70! I had one as a kid-in red too!
@Tinker_Box 2 ай бұрын
I came to know the device thanks to you. Such a beautiful design from the old days!! Thanks!
@jimb032 2 ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box I know right? I'm almost sad I didn't do red like you did. My Panapet was red. Shame there is no use for an encoder knob.. you could recreate since you are so close! I did mine in translucent blue with my resin printer. Eager to try this out. Thanks for all your work!!
@Tinker_Box 2 ай бұрын
@@jimb032 Great, and good luck!
@jimb032 Ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box Hey! Built this and he looks great in transparent blue. One small problem with the Fusion 360 design of the front panel - It's either too low in position OR too short. I noticed that the WIFI signal strength meter and IP address on the very top line is covered up. In my print it has the neat effect that I can see it through the cover and it's just extra info, but if you FDM print it you would not be able to see it. I don't know if that is a difference in the screen (Chinesium tolerances), or maybe this was added later to the OLED code? The bottom seems to be correct in location, so I'm guessing it just needs the opening widened. Anyhoo, I accidentally cracked my front cover anyway, so I'll reprint Height of opening +3.75mm on top and see how it works out. I dont know why any of that is because in your video I can see all of the screen elements, but maybe the code changed to use more of the screen real estate? Also - you no longer need to do the command prompt procedure to load the OLED code - the plugin is native now. It's the same megacrab code too.
@Tinker_Box Ай бұрын
@@jimb032 I’m very glad that you’ve made one. 😊 Sorry about the screen issue. I had to measure the screen size manually and although I tried my best, I think there are mismatches. I also was not an avid Fusion user back then. Thanks for letting me know this issue and good luck to you!
@jysu5153 2 ай бұрын
전압 측정치에 대하여 질문드립니다. 회로도에는 6J8P 6번 핀에 +85V가 나오는 것으로 되어 있는데, 실측치는 15V 정도 입니다. 나머지는 전압은 회로도와 유사한 값이고 소리도 그런대로 괜찮습니다. 어디에 이상이 있는 것일까요?
@Tinker_Box 2 ай бұрын
글쎄요, 말씀만 듣고 답을 떠올리기가 쉽지 않네요 ㅠㅠ
@deucedeuce1572 2 ай бұрын
It is so impossibly hard to find and choose the best options, especially if you don't have a lot of money. There are so many pros and cons and stipulations to each and every option that it just becomes impossible to really plan out a good, inexpensive upgrade for printing at higher temperatures and speeds. This seems like one of the better options, but I think it's outside my price range. I would really love to find a lightweight, high speed, high temperature upgrade that I can afford. 최고의 옵션을 찾고 선택하는 것은 불가능할 정도로 어렵습니다. 특히 돈이 많지 않은 경우에는 더욱 그렇습니다. 각 옵션마다 장단점과 규정이 너무 많아서 더 높은 온도와 속도에서 인쇄하기 위한 훌륭하고 저렴한 업그레이드를 실제로 계획하는 것이 불가능해졌습니다. 이것이 더 나은 옵션 중 하나인 것 같지만 제 가격대를 벗어나는 것 같아요. 저는 제가 감당할 수 있는 경량, 고속, 고온 업그레이드를 찾고 싶습니다.
@Tinker_Box 2 ай бұрын
3d printer upgrade is a rabbit hole 😭
@morrisnkomo3885 2 ай бұрын
where you every able to address the problems?
@nicdennypranoto 2 ай бұрын
Exactly what i'm looking for 🙏🏻
@gabrielerossi850 3 ай бұрын
Thank you SO MUCH for showing your failed moulds as well. I have been going through the same problems and begun to think it only happens to me. All other videos I've seen on KZbin only show perfect working moulds and mine all stuck. I didn't understand why I was the only one with this problem. Thank you so much again. You gave me the courage to get back to it :)
@Tinker_Box 3 ай бұрын
You’re the best! Thanks is mine. 😄👍
@marciozomb13 3 ай бұрын
How can the powerbank deliver 9v/12v from PD with a 3.7v cell? They are connected in 2P right?
@Tinker_Box 3 ай бұрын
Step-up converter.
@WalterValdez 3 ай бұрын
Let the pot rest under water for a few days, and use some metal wire inside to reinforce the pots.
@tomasgilesraghner1571 4 ай бұрын
Thanks
@truantray 4 ай бұрын
Still not optimal. If you try two of these M600 scripts to change at different heights, klipper just stops at the first height and ends the print.
@aleksander-kruecken 4 ай бұрын
Thank you for the great tutorial. Just what I need it.
@Tinker_Box 4 ай бұрын
😄👍
@m.a.pansuriofficial 4 ай бұрын
the overheating issue is from soc ip5386. look no heatsink in soc.if heatsink under pcb if used alumunium pcb,the baterai to hot from pcb it self. sorry my english is so bad
@Tinker_Box 4 ай бұрын
Hmm. You could be right. I never thought about that. But on the other hand, the temp. measurement comes from the probe attached to the batteries, and the thermal throttling happens according to the measured temp. Isn't that so?
@m.a.pansuriofficial 4 ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box ya. I test with ip5318 with output 65w from soc but from pcb i buy 60w max.i cooling soc with thermal pad and alumunium case.its almost throttle at 42⁰c on soc and baterai is fine around 40⁰c to 42⁰c and ready to drop power its charging around 45w. Yeah its compicated to solve problem on small area even in large area almost overheating on soc. Ip5386 its fine if soc add thermal pad and alumunium case. Sorry my english so bad bro 🙏🙏🙏
@Tinker_Box 4 ай бұрын
@@m.a.pansuriofficial great info! Thanks. What batteries were used?
@m.a.pansuriofficial 4 ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box i used samsung 21700 5.000 mah in 5S.because is max capacity to apply in plane flight🙏🙏🙏
@Tinker_Box 4 ай бұрын
@@m.a.pansuriofficial Again thanks!
@denim47gaming 4 ай бұрын
Sir, the link is broken, can you change it?
@Tinker_Box 4 ай бұрын
Maybe it’s not available for your country, I guess.
@denim47gaming 4 ай бұрын
I tried a vpn in us, japan and it didnt work
@peterhoulihan9766 4 ай бұрын
Not sure if you'd consider it cheating, but you'd probably be better off printing male plugs, using those to cast female silicone molds, then casting in those. Demoulding a solid piece from a flexible mould is much easier.
@Tinker_Box 4 ай бұрын
Yes. Since I made this video, many suggested that and I agree. Thanks for your input!
@peterhoulihan9766 4 ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box No problem! A good rule of thumb I got given years ago is that if you're casting rigid parts, use a flexible mold. If you're casting flexible parts, use a rigid mold.
@Tinker_Box 4 ай бұрын
@@peterhoulihan9766 Great tip! Thanks!! 👍
@foobeaglebar 4 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video. Helped me out today!
@denislavpetrov4563 5 ай бұрын
Hello, is there any noise , when the audio is on, but the song is in pause , or how is the sound quality? Thank you!
@Tinker_Box 5 ай бұрын
There’s no noise as far as I can tell. It’s dead silent!
@denislavpetrov4563 5 ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box Great! Thank you!
@jhef56 5 ай бұрын
Could you just splice into the existing fan wire without running to the board?
@Tinker_Box 5 ай бұрын
I guess it’s okay. 😀
@franklinmichael671 5 ай бұрын
Is there a particular reason why you 3d print the actual molds? If you learn a little about working with silicone you can 3d print the shape of the actual piece, sand it and then make a silicone mold using that shape as reference, that way your molds will be flexible and you will have an easier time demolding and making pieces that are simply imposible to demold wit 3d printing without breaking the mold.
@Tinker_Box 5 ай бұрын
I guess you’re right. I haven’t tried silicon casting but I know about 3d printing. That’s why. ;) But as you’ve saw in the video, TPU molds are reusable.
@badmojjo 5 ай бұрын
It's really worth snipping those strings :D
@kachunliu 5 ай бұрын
Is the instructions the same for a RX100 mk2 build if i wanted to change the USB Lid?
@Tinker_Box 5 ай бұрын
I guess they are almost the same.
@petersilva4242 5 ай бұрын
Does this mean the pi has to be allways on?
@Tinker_Box 5 ай бұрын
Yes. I think it’s okay. I didn’t see a problem yet.
@robinlaurenssen2741 6 ай бұрын
Calming and great
@Tinker_Box 6 ай бұрын
Thanks:)
@markmartinez9031 6 ай бұрын
We jave a somilar spot welder
@Tinker_Box 6 ай бұрын
Do you like it?
@markmartinez9031 6 ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box initially yes. But after 2 yrs of use I notice welding power is reduced
@Tinker_Box 6 ай бұрын
@@markmartinez9031 Mine is exactly like that. It’s much weaker now.
@markmartinez9031 6 ай бұрын
@@Tinker_Box I haven't tried to open mine, maybe the battery is the culprit
@Tinker_Box 6 ай бұрын
@@markmartinez9031 yes, may be. 😀
@badukplayer87 6 ай бұрын
Great project and it turned out very well! :)
@Tinker_Box 6 ай бұрын
Thanks!