@@fireclouddesign if I remember correctly, I left the steel hub on the crank, tightened it down real good to make the little alignment dowels in the hub mark the plastic, I took the plastic back off and drilled two countersink holes to line up with the two dowel pins. I'm still using this mower to this day, although I've left steel cable in the past and started using the correct trimmer line. Still works great.

Do a full check up, revise pigeon gear, lube your cable and revise your magnets inside your speedo, something might be loose. As an A80 owner, old jap bikes are easy to work.not much to be messed with.

I had such an issue and it burnt two of my speedometer cables. I finally disassembled the speedometer and properly lubed a bunch of places. It's now working ok. Also make sure there is no small degree bending angles on your cable, which causes a lot of friction in the cable.

@@kksuki7876 I figured out the problem, the spring snapped. Thanks for replying though

@@e_s.0848how was it digging I tot the speedo? I have a Honda ct110 1981 after riding around today Speedo just stopped working. Can’t buy a new one so repairing is my only option. Looking for resources on how to do that.

@@Cdickey2226 If it's having the same issues as my 81 xl185s (spinning and whining), its the hairspring pin

@@muffins12313 just a regular GM coil pack. Commonly found on the 60° V6s, like the 3.1, 3.3, 3.4, and 3.8.

What kind of indestructainium are you using for your drill bits? Tried cobalt bits to do just that, immediately prior to taking this video, and absolutely trashed all of them and barely even scratched the shifter collet. By the way, got any tips for removing the bumper bolts from a M1008/M1009, you know the ones made of pure indestructainium, using something other than a oxyacetylene torch to melt them out or pure brute force to break them? Busted a 1/2" DeWalt ratchet and a couple 1/2"-3/8" adapters to bust 3 of the 6 bolts free, then the oxyacetylene torch came out. I have to do the same thing on another one before long.

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 I used common nitride coated drill bits. As a Isuzu dealer tech, it was a divorced 1986-1988 Trooper gear box (All are 4X4's) but installed a double roll pin in shift forks and other areas as all are same size. I needed some Grade 8 all-thread and found a fastener retailer not far. After my purchase I asked about the heavy roll pins. He recommended them to everyone and had 12 sizes in stock. As far as penetrating oil, never used it in 42+ years, same with impact. I went for a breaker bar, cheater pipe and broke bolts loose. My choice is engine oil in all 3 oil cans. I avoid "Chineezium" because it breaks or doesn't work. I had 90% SnapOn tools and a set of MAC pullers from my brother in law hard up for money and in SnapOn tool box #3. I have some craftsmen stuff but for few jobs. SnapOn sold CP, Rigid, Mayhew, and other brands now found at McMaster-Carr! I was asked once about the speed of high-speed drill bits. The correct answer is faster than hand. So keep speed low at medium trigger. Cobalt, nitride and other heavy metals on the bottom line of the periodic table, are all deposited the same way. In a vacuum chamber, the negative charged tools are hanging with diatomaceous earth or ceramic coating parts for areas not to be covered. While a tiny hokey puck of the heavy metal is struck with a high voltage arc, vaporizing it. It deposits on the tool. Size, time, placement are all factors or good or cheap. This SAE standards or Chineezium. Best of luck! DK

It is as shown.

I've never seen a Wisconsin with a comp release, but I haven't seen them all. What model engine is it?

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 it's the bkn

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 if it's the crankcase breather and it's blowing air just turning it over by hand would that mean their is a push rod stuck or needs piston rings

No. The F7 has a bigger bore. Different piston, different cylinder, and likely a different crank and rod.

No problem! I'm glad I could help!

This one is an AEN, which is 9.2hp. There are many models, all of different horsepower, you'll just have to do a simple Google search to know the HP of yours. "Wisconsin (model) horsepower" should do it.

It was a video edit to catch a little attention for the correction at the same moment.

No problem! Great to hear you got your bike going! I'm glad I could help!

No problems with the rotary valve, almost 3 years later...

No, but you can go to eBay and search for one, and if you don't find it you can push the "save search" button and eBay will send you an email when one pops up.

Yeah, if you have an additional $800 to spend on the valve body alone! After a crapload of fresh fluid at $9/quart I spent no more than $400 on the ENTIRE swap, including buying the transmission ($200 junkyard transmission, about $120 for fluid I think, and I could have cut switches down to about $15 if I wanted lighted plastic switches instead of sturdier metal, then $30 for a filter and pan gasket) There's a reason I specified *on a budget* for this video. I ended up actually swapping it back out for a TH400 because reverse was fried and for some reason it simply won't shift to 4th (4th worked for the first few test drives, but quit shortly after), so the 4L80E is currently sitting waiting for me to rebuild it and put it back in.

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 hell yeah I hear that & I was just saying as I’m looking to do a crazy build on a Hummer H2 & just learned you can bout a Manuel Valve Body in those 4L80E’s but unless you want OD that TH400 is a good trans.

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154u do pcm tuning?

Look around at farm and ranch/estate auctions and you'll find them. I myself have several.

I actually will. I am going to do a video on my first attempt at rebuilding the transmission, to show a genuine first impression on the difficulty level (since many have told me that it's far beyond my skill level). Reverse and 4th were non-functional and the torque converter was horrible. I swapped out the 4L80E for a TH400 about a week after this video. I tore into the 4L80E and found that multiple lip seals were toast and a few clutch friction plates and steels were kinda toasty, and the separator plate was in pretty rough shape around the check balls. It'll be getting all kinds of upgrades.

Sorry for the late reply! That I wouldn't know, but you might try using a screwdriver or something to reach in there and get it lined up. I would jack up the rear end off the ground and then try to get things lined up in there with the engine turned off, that way there's no tension on anything. You might want an assistant to wiggle/turn the driveshaft to make it easier. Be safe, and good luck! Nobody was hurt in the wreck, thank you for your concern. I got out with a bruise, a few scratches on my left arm, and a mild case of whiplash. Pulled the engine by myself the next day and put it in my other truck.

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 I was able to do exactly what you recommended. Pull the shift fork outta 1st, with a screwdriver, and put it in neutral. That did the trick. Can't believe the shifter will drop in, when its not aligned. Oh well, learn something new every day. Thanks for your reply.

Me too, that pin is harder than hard! Just mutilated normal bits instantly, mutilated cobalt bits almost as quickly. Chevy hardware (especially on the Military trucks and blazers) is nothing to mess with! 🤣

Them old Briggs crescent-moon coils (Briggs model F, Z-series like the Z and ZZ, Y-series like the Y and YY and several others) are pretty hot too! They'll light you up like a light bulb without a problem! These Wico mags aren't so bad as Chevy HEI or the Briggs crescent-moon mags, but they're pretty good and hot.

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 Good day I watch alot of farm videos. The ones that have wis, motors all say they start right off, is that because they have such good spark. Thanks

Haven't run any of them long enough for the plugs to foul. Yes, I've done this with more than one. Ran about 5 gallons through my 1947 AEN for break-in with a Champion D16 (same as I've found in all of them that I've ever come across) and the plug got a little oily but it still hasn't fouled at all. Ran about 10 gallons through the BKN and the plug fouled, but that specific engine has a problem with fouling plugs regardless. It'll foul out within about 5 gallons of regular gasoline, even though it's tuned as well as possible and it's not real worn. Could be the points and condenser need replaced on the BKN.

You can email me at [email protected] or find me on Facebook as William Rasmussen with a profile picture of a Chevy 350 with upsidedown headers on a test stand, kinda copper colored.

😂 Yepper.

Put a little over 40k miles on it after that with no problems whatsoever, then I got distracted for a second or two and rolled the ol' girl 3-1/2 times on August 29th. The transmission is going into another pickup as soon as I get another one, the engine already went into another pickup.

More than likely, yes. Many of these like to be run on 50-85% oil/diesel and the rest gas, rather than just oil and diesel though. I can get about 6 hours of run time at 2600rpm on a gallon of 90% oil 10% gas with my AEN.

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 very impressive i have to try this out, your the only one on youtube who makes a video of it. Thanks

Some of them like the AENL SOMETIMES used an electric starter with gears. But I would say it's probably going to be easier to rig up an old generator/starter from a tractor or something of the likes instead of trying to find the flywheel and starter to fit. Probably a T series Wisconsin, THD, TJD, etc.

@@lawnmowerrepairsandstuff3154 Excellent! Thank you. I am going to look for an old cub or allis Chalmers generator starter and rig it with a belt so that it spins the motor and then turns into a generator when it is running.