My dice range in size (on the max dimension) from 16mm to 40mm!

66 hours!

That’s sorta a complex answer given a few things. Firstly not all silicone weighs the same amount, and secondly you need to subtract your dice from that weight. I do the volume calculation breakdown here! (Page9) drive.google.com/file/d/1pva95C6I6Sr7hl7PejJVLOLpCsBRkMB0/view?pli=1

Soon! We are working out the shipping side of things at this point.

​@@TheSmithsForge Will this only be available as a shippable product or can this be printed as well? I can't make out the materials

Playing with the angle of the platform is key to fighting raised faces, too steep and the resin will fight to escape.

@@TheSmithsForge sounds really complicated xD I stuck little tubings in the lid to give the resin a place to escape and function as a reservoir which helped a lot

I actually listed the files for this one for free! makerworld.com/models/133790

@@TheSmithsForge thanks a lot for this

I definitely plan on making a dice master video in the future!

@@TheSmithsForge I am looking forward to it!

Glad to help!

Nope, that’s platinum cure silicone! I print masters in a resin that doesn’t have cure inhibition.

This is done in Fusion360, take a look at their personal license!

I’m so happy you’re here!

Thank you so much, you all are the reason I do this.

Glad to help! If you have any questions feel free to reach out to me here or on the Dice Making Discord !

Thanks….lol

I made Vol 1 in December, so about 6 months lol.

Thank you, we just dropped a Vol.2 with a bunch of new features!

I really appreciate it!

The calculation is for the bottom half, if you want a rough number for the top half replace the dice height section with how thick you want your lid. I do 20mm

Yeah it’s hard to explain a double negative haha!

Those are platforms, It’s a technique I’m playing with that moves where the flashing is on your dice face

Thank you! People like you are the reason I make projects like this.

Hey, I designed for, and print mine on FDM printers. But I have had a few people print theirs in resin. Just a couple of things to keep in mind. Resin printing is harder to get dimensional accuracy, you will want to really tighten your settings with dimensional tests. Then just keep in mind that silicone reacts to certain resin for a while after it is printed.

This is not, just one of our standard 35mm d20 molds!

Personally, I have not when I used the brush. But our Vaseline is fairly think. I currently testing some other options for releases too. Hoping to have a few more videos out soon!

@@TheSmithsForge While the pressure pot works, I can recommend a vacuum chamber for silicone. It degasses quickly, you can locate the curing item somewhere suitable, and it doesn't tie up equipment. Vaseline is ideal, but I dilute with white spirit to make Naphtha (Eric Strebel's favourite release agent). This gives a mix that's easier to apply and gives a thin layer. Just need to ensure the diluting doesn't introduce sulfur or anything else that causes cure inhibition with the platinum cure. No concern for tin cure. The tip about using transfer tape is a good one! Hadn't thought of that. I like the mould cases. When I was moulding a victorian doorknob I wanted a similar case, and on mine, I created two halves of the cylinder like yours, with a v shaped lip and groove down the edges so the two halves slotted together. I had a vertical wedge down the seam on the outside that a clip could be slid onto to hold the halves together. So press the halves together, slide a clip down on each side and done. The shell slotted into a base that had keys on, you'd do the pour, remove the base when set, open the halves and shift the mould, close it again, apply the release agent the top off the cavity with the second pour. Getting the base off was slightly tricky if I remember, but super satisfying like you were saying :) Tape would have been easier. Interested to see what else you come up with :)

I find that Cricut transfer tape doesn’t cause inhibition with the silicone that we use.

Thanks for asking! The ring helps add more tension to the top of the mold.

I think he’s specifically talking about the aggressive spikes at the top of the red ring. Right, @christaylor628 ?

I should have specified, the top of the ring is the redesigned portion, it was added to help with tension and support. While reducing the need for extra plastic to be printed, as much as possible.

Appreciate the clarification, keep up the great work! Proud of you.

Keep an eye out, might make a masters video soon. Remember to have fun!

Thank you!

I completely agree haha!

Thank you! I wasn’t really sure how I felt about using transitions, definitely was a bit overkill.

Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions!

Thank you! Glad to hear from someone using them!

Still working out the details, hopefully there will be a more in depth video soon!

Thanks for the kind words!