Which one gets cooler, the silver or the red one? I can´t find someone to answer this.

Had an all-metal hotend for over a year now and only experienced my first clogging a couple of days ago. Because of stringing, I set the pull back distance for traveling higher and apparently, becuause of this, the soft filament was pulled back into the unheated part of the hit end and solidified. I cleaned everything out and ran another print, with the same long pullback distance, because I hadn't made the connection to the problem yet. When it clogged again shortly after, I cleaned it again, set the pullback to a very short amount, so the filament would still be in the heated part and now it works perfect again, so I don't think lubrication is really necessary. Still have to figure out a solution for the strining, but it's a minor nuisance compared to a clogged hotend. Probably will fiddle with the print temp next.

You literally do the same thing to make a cooking pan non-stick, it's called seasoning of you don't know!!! It's a good idea !

For Anycubic there is not and you have to choose the one from Creality.

is the Temperature Different when heating PLA in a all metal-Hotend then a Standard Hotend ? my problem is getting the layers bond with ac and does it matter ?

God bless you even now in 2024. Works great on my Voron 2.4, Dragon HF. 🙏

As you say, the info is so short that I don´t even know yet if the last hotends for Ender are all metal or have the small teflon tube inside. I will go for your solution, a drop of oil before you print is much more practical. I think we still have the same problem that cars had many years ago before inventing the closed circuit of water to refrigerate the radiator. I think the whole hotend system must be reinvented but at affordable prices because how can you even think on installing a decent hotend of about 150 dollars on a 120 dollar printer, is ridiculous. Companies want to earn more money selling parts than the whole device. As the hotend is the more often part replaced, they ask good money for it, or buy a cheap one that will last 3 months. This is why I think that the enthusiasm for 3d printers is going down. It would be better if you buy a new printer every 6 months when it starts failing but many printers start failing the same day that you receive it and try to print, so many issues for a hobbie. What is it all that we want? Printers printing, that´s all.more often

Add oil works very well, i use olive oil, give you a pleasante smell, maybe once a month i do 2 dropes, very few times i use pla, abs, pet g, also pet b ( from rececled bottles, and no problems, thanks for the video.

I changed the entire assembly. And replaced the thermistor and heater cartridge to what was provided spare by creality. Using pla, the hot end starts smoking while preheating. It started smoking at 140 c. I turned it off. What must be wrong? Or is it normal?

/me facepalms. OF COURSE! This is exactly like cooking with Cast Iron: You use oil to build-up a non-stick patina on the raw metal. BTW: Teflon (the coating on non-stick cookware) is another name for PTFE.

Keep it up!

This is the coolest! 🔥

Neat!

This is so cool!

Hmm this video leaves me with a question. A google search revealed this problem to be limited to mainly PLA on Ender 3, clones and printers with that undirected and loud stock hot-end fan. That means it's very likely due to heat creep. Never the less, I've ordered a bi-metal heartbreak for my old Ender 3 (Rev1) and a 5015 fan to test this theory myself, tho in my research i already found a video claiming to fix the problem by using high performance thermal paste. Please note that there's many options available that use "all metal" hot-ends stock and works flawlessly PS Teflon (PTFE, the bowden tube) doesn't become lubricating or achieve lower friction at higher heat. It's fully stable until 260C, tho lower quality starts to degrade as low as 230C. At degradation PTFE loses all of it's beneficial properties. So if this is something you've read somewhere, i would be very interested in reading it myself, if you kindly will refer to your source

I wonder if CV-2 grease would work. It's a moly grease that's good for high temperatures, but it also never comes off. You can put it inside the piston walls of a car engine and run it for 200,000 miles and in the end the grease will still be coating/protecting the surface. It just might be hard to use, because you'd probably have to put it on where you need it and then wipe it off the best you can. It might seem like you got it all off after wiping it very well, but there will always be a very thin coating lubricating that area for as long as that hot end or its parts exist.

So if you don't have a lubricant pla is basically off the table so can you print petg without lubrication?

damn bro you coulda saved us alot of time if you just said "use mineral oil if your sh*t clogs!" damn repeated yourself for 12 mins

I have linseed oil and mineral spirits. Will either of those work?

Like seasoning your cast iron skillet. I get it I’ve had nothing but issues I will definitely try this I’ve got five of these in my failure drawer.

Reminds me of seasoning a cast iron pan for sure lol.

Summary: The tube right before the heat break should be placed down carefully and should be made of metal. 4:40 shows where people typically have clogging issues

Hallo, rissbildung am Gewinde(Edelstahl Gewinde sandstrahlen). Atmt Gruß

Both of my machines are all metal now so I'll try this for sure, but for those still running stock hot ends there's an extremely simple way to make sure your tube is set perfectly. If you simply install it with the nozzle in place the act of it pulling back and locking will make a small gap. So I turn the nozzle out a few threads, roughly the same distance as those clips for the bowden collars. Insert the tube all the way to the nozzle and tighten the nozzle. This will push the tube back to engage the lock all while keeping a perfect fit to the nozzle. You can fo a bit further out with the nozzle too, some compression on the tube won't hurt but going too far might distort it and cause a restriction.

Where can I get those all metal breaks at I’m kinda new to this

Oiling your Filament is the Dumbest and most genius idea ever. Ahahahahha you will completely ruin your Z cohesion. This might be the most funny idea I have ever seen.

would this ALL METAL HOT END work on an ARTILLERY SIDEWINDER X-2 ?

Hi there. I uploaded a simple part to Thingiverse(called: PTFE-Straightener😁), that sits on the pneumatic couppler, on top of the Ender-3 hotend, and it's there to straighten the PTFE-tube entering the heatsink, so that feeding the Filament into one of these cheaper Heatbreaks won't be a problem anymore. Should you still get problems, what you can additionally do to help with feeding the Filament, is moving the print-head all the way to the right before feeding the Filament, so that the PTFE-tube aligns even better with the Hotend. But of course buying a copperhead-H.B. is also possible.

Wouldn't the oil contaminate the build plate surface causing poor 1st layer adhesion? I use the a Micro Swiss all metal hotend and have never had a problem printing PLA or PLA+ with my CR-10s Pro.

I stumbled upon this video by accident while actually trying to remember what I took out to revert from a bimetalic heatbreak back to stock with capricorn tubing, and maybe I'm speaking too soon, but your tip really seems to work. I bought a small 100ml bottle just across the street for about $2. Used a few drops inside the hotend and started printing again. My Elegoo Neptune 3 went months without use because of the constant clogging. I had several spools of good quality PLA that I couldn't use because it would make a mess, just really shitty layers, having to use high temps and constant clogging. Earlier in the day I tried this tip, I actually printed 2 simple prints for my dad's project, and like always, clog, clean, print, clog, clean, print. Later the same day I tried the tip and have been printing at least 5 or so pieces without any issues with temps down by 20°C. Prints looking as beautiful as the first day I got the machine. That made me remember why I wanted a 3d printer in the first place. Thank you so much for this video!

Can you also use WD-40 for this?

Should have got the nail clippers at right aid too

Thanks for the description about the hotend and your fix

What is the retraction setting, more or less?

Direct drive for the win.

I don't trust that

Link?

What would cause a clog two hours into a print? I have two printers with Titanium Heat Breaks. One printer has been working like a champ but the other one clogs up after an hour or two during a print.

Now I am curious what the ignition point of mineral oil is lol :)

I'm not trying to be mean at all, but if I'm gonna watch a video of your hands, please wash them and get the dirt out from under your nails. Not intended as rude, but I couldn't watch the video any longer because of it. Working guy here, use my hands and get them disgustingly dirty, but I wouldn't make a video with them that way. Sorry not trying to be offensive just a tip to get some more viewers.

Promo-SM

Can't you just spray liquid PTFE lubricant into the metal part of the hotend? It will give it a teflon coat on the inside

Step 1: Get a proper hotend (like an e3d V6). Seriously, it's all about a smooth filament path.

​@boydm991 I just switched out to an all metal hot end on my stock set up. I saw in the reviews for the hot end that clogs were common without retraction changes. Most comments said 1.5 so I tried it. I have a little stringing so I'm going to try 1.75 and 2 to see if I can dial it in. Maybe Ill also try the mineral oil. I was thinking of using a sponge before the extruder like Ive seen others do. Maybe Ill design a little box to hold it?

How can we buy this

This is awesome! Nice content

発想がおもしろくていいですね！🎉

tune retraction. 2 years with all metal on 2 sunlu s8s, a year on an ender 3 and haven't had to oil anything. Flow, linear/pressure advance, and retraction. in a bowden setup i am good with about 2.5-3 mm and on direct drive .9-1.5mm.

Allmetal has not been an issue for PLA since the thin throat ones became available. It's just the old fat E3D style ones that had heat creep. The Triangle Labs/POLISI3D one in the middle is great. If you were getting heat creep with it maybe you're retracting waaaay too far.