You're welcome. Great products.

Hi, there is some play in the Livescanner shaft for the breakaway capability. So that is normal. But on my unit the transducer stays lined up with the arrow. Can you manually rotate the shaft and feel a click? It kind of sounds like yours is not locking in place. I wonder if it is missing a tooth in the gear head. I did notice that the shaft diameter is a little smaller so I had to use the shim pads to get the transducer to stay in place on the shaft.

Also, check to make sure that that allen screws are tight on the coupler. Check all of them.

You're welcome. Thanks for watching!

No, do not switch the ground. It will cause issues and potential hazards. For example you may have a bilge pump that is connected to the battery and if it shorts out then you could have a live circuit in your boat. I only switch the positive. That way the battery power if fully disconnected from the rest of the boat. There should be some place that you can add the switch on the positive terminals. You might need a longer wire. And thanks for the question and watching the video. Garry

@@garrywoodruff960 Thanks Gary, your answer makes complete sense. Much appreciated.

You're welcome. Let me know how it turns out.

You're welcome. Easier to control with everything on one boat. Thanks for watching. I hope they help. I also did one comparing Downscan too.

That's true. And others have noticed as well. And why I did an updated version using 2 transducers on my boat. See this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqKtk5iEaNpspZo Thanks for watching.

Hi, it might be possible but you would have to overcome issues with running the connectors through the pole and you would still have the coil wrap somewhere on the run. Without some means of cable tension release (coil, etc) the transducer cable would eventually fail. I'll be working on the boat again in February to add a stern mounted Active Target. I will look at the pole and how internal cable routing would work. (Sorry hard to type with this bandage on my hand). The Livescanner has a breakaway system so that the pole disconnects from the drive during an impact. So that would need to be taken into account. When I talk with Livescanner next, I will make sure to ask about it. It would help a bit having an internal cable routing, much like the Ghost has for the transducer cable. That's a good idea. Thanks for suggesting it. And thank you for watching the video!

Hi, yes I'd change it. You are lucky that you got the 10 years out it. The one in my 2006 only last 6 years. I was at Ontario and fortunately I had a spare in the truck. I just added Amazon links in the description of the ones that I use. I put 30, 50, and 60 Amp ones in there. I have a 50 for my Ghost. Check to make sure that you get the correct size. You may also have to change the terminals, but I think that the old ones will be close to the ones on the breaker. I didn't write it down when I changed out that failed one on the intercoastal Ranger. And you're welcome. I'm glad that you liked it. I really appreciate you watching the videos. I am going to do one on making a battery cable next while I'm waiting for my hand to heal (trigger finger operation today) and the weather to break.

No, it will work just fine. For my setup, I run a 12 Amp power supply and use it for 1 or 2 units, NMEA bus, and wireless hub. Thanks for watching the video. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Yes you would. All of the transducer processing is done in the S3100 module. You could also add a Pro unit and then share the output to your Live unit. But if you want the Fish Reveal on sidescan, you'll need the S3100 module.

No, I am using a Livescanner. It is a sync-ready version that I will be upgrading when the sync module comes out. I haven't installed a Live foot yet, but I have installed other brands. They all have their pluses and minuses. On the boat in the video, that is a DD26 Live foot. The boat is a Vexus and came with it. I had just installed the S3100 and AI 3-in-1 HD FishReveal on it and we were testing it out. Thanks for watching the video and that's a good eye for detail!

I normally use 8 AWG marine gauge duplex wire for power cables to the console and bow. They are 2 separate runs, each one with a fuse block at the destination. On this boat, the owner only wanted me to add the Active Target 2 module, so I ran 8 AWG to power the AT2 module and NEP-2 network hub. The 2 Lowrance Elite FS units were powered by 10 AWG duplex to the console fuse block. And then we have plans to redo all of the electronics wiring next year. This is the wire that I use: amzn.to/3VwaTwd -- that is an Amazon affiliate link, so if you purchase the wire I may get a commission. And thanks for watching the video.

Hi, I usually run 8 AWG marine grade wire. This allows for future additions without having to an impact on voltage level. I have run 10 AWG in the past before the live systems or running more than 2 units on the boat. But that is limited to short runs less than 10 feet. This is the wire that I run: amzn.to/3OBxp2J And thanks for viewing the video!

Hi Mark, thank you. I try to make helpful videos. A lot of the videos address problems that I have helped many customers with and I want to share the knowledge. The power ground on the AT module should be grounded to the same battery that is used for the switch. Otherwise the wakeup wire will not work as expected. So if the AT module is powered by the lithium battery then the module and switch ground are connected to the lithium ground. I am assuming that you have a dedicated lithium battery for your electronics. There is also a case ground on the AT module as well. If you are in freshwater then connect the case ground (also called bonding wire) to the lithium battery. If you have a saltwater boat that has a ground system attached to an anode then attach the case ground to the ground system. That will do 2 things. First, it will help to prevent corrosion on the transducer. And second, it will help to clean up the image on your screen by eliminating some electrical noise. I appreciate you watching the videos. Garry

@@garrywoodruff960 Very thorough answer. Thank you. I was referring to the module case ground (bonding wire), and you answered very precisely. Good deal!

You're welcome. That's my engineering background coming through.

You will need to turn on the Active Target 2 features. You can access them in Settings -> System -> Advanced -> Features then look for the AT2 features and enable it. You will need to make sure that the Blue (sync) wire for both AT2 modules and the Yellow wire on Pro units are all connected together. For the network, you can connect the AT2 modules to any unit on the network but I would use a NEP-2 to connect everything. Both AT2 modules, the Pro bow unit, and the console unit(s) should be connected to it. The NEP-2 module will have the same power cord as the AT2, so make sure that you label it. And it also requires the use of the Yellow wakeup wire as well to turn it on. I usually have the NEP-2 module turn on when the electronics power is enabled. And I have the AT2 modules on separate switches to control each one separately (like I did on the Caymas build). And on the bow Pro, enable the Ping Sync under Power Control on the System Settings panel. Let me know how it all works out and if you have more questions. It sounds like you will have a really nice setup.

OMG!! Thanks for the tip on Accessing this feature. I had no idea of it. I have 5 graph units on my boat. Also all my units is all Ethernet connected and NEMA 2000 all connected together. Do I still need that NEP-2?

You're welcome. I would definitely use the NEP-2. While it only has 5 ports, you can connect 5 devices and then daisy chain the rest. You have 7 network devices - 5 units and 2 AT modules. If you have the S3100 then it would be 8. I like everything on the boat to be connected. That allows me to look at everything from different locations. For example, when I guide I use the trolling motor and Active Target while sitting at the console while clients are fishing.

No the 3-in-1 HD transducer with the Pro gives only downscan Fish Reveal. You need a separate 3-in-1 HD FR transducer to get sidescan Fish Reveal and it must be connected to a S3100 module for everything to work. I used this part number: 000-16060-001 on my boat and other installations. There is also a H/W version of the transducer for a wider coverage area. When I preordered my transducer the H/W version was not available and there was very little documentation on it, so I just ordered the normal coverage one. I believe the difference is in the coverage of the normal sonar at the high frequency setting with the H/W version giving a wider coverage area.

Thanks for the reply and the clarification

You're welcome!

I prefer Fluke but when I was looking for a replacement meter, Klein was my second choice only due to price. An equivalent Fluke was about 2-3 times higher in price. Klein is my first choice for pliers, strippers, and similar tools. Of course, I was replacing a meter that I bought at an Ace Hardware for about $10 years ago, it served me well but finally died and I bought that one to replace that Fluke that I won. Thanks for watching and being a subscriber! And good luck with the continued growth of your channel.

@@garrywoodruff960 Thank you! And you as well.

You bet.

As an hvac technician I love my fieldpiece meters. Prefered over the Klein and fluke

I'll have to check them out. Fluke was commonplace in the test equipment that I used to design and build.

I think I'm found my answer in the comments. Good stuff. Subscribing.

If you are wiring a unit (HDS, Elite, etc.) then you do not need to connect the Yellow wire. I simply cut the exposed wire off the end (where it is silver or tinned), then I fold it back on cable, and put a piece of heatshrink on it. If you are wiring in a touch unit then I would test it to make sure that the screen operates as normal. I expect that it would given that you connecting into your snowmobile and it is grounded to the ice. And thanks for watching the video!

That's great that you found what you needed. And thank you very much for subscribing!

I usually run into the opposite where the screen lags or is hard to touch. I haven't seen screens that sensitive. Have you cleaned the screens? And do you have a grounding strap that you could put on your wrist to try? (like the ones used for working on computers). Usually when I use my units, I only touch the screen where I need to. And if I want to drag something, then I will put a finger on the screen and move it. The same for zoom, except with two fingers. If you get your finger within the field proximity of the screen then it will detect your finger. Perhaps that it what is happening. And you did the recalibration which I was going to suggest. And the ground check is the next step. Except a bad ground usually causes the touch not to work at all. Let me know. I will also ask others on the pro staff about it.

Thanks Marc. I wish that I would have had some better clips for some of them.

@garrywoodruff960 I know what you mean...I often do as well with my videos. But I think we both have a lot more to do than make videos.

Yes that's for sure. I keep hurting my body which makes it hard to get out in boat. And just had one of my trigger fingers done. And I have so many on the water videos to do

You're welcome. I'm glad that you are learning from them. If you have any questions please let me know, perhaps I can make a video of it. Thank you for watching!

You're welcome. I hope that it helps. And thanks for watching!

Thank you! It seems to fill a void out there. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I'm glad that you liked it. I appreciate you watching the videos.

Thank you. And you're welcome. I appreciate you watching the video.

Thanks. And thank you for watching the videos. I use/teach the pages button since all machines (HDS all gens, Elite FS) have that and it makes it easier to always show it that way for people I help. You can also get to the settings via the power button but I don't like that since someone could accidently press the power button too long and start dimming the screen. And that causes even more problems for them.

Hi, when I was looking for details in the documents about this just to confirm my understanding, I had to go back to the Gen 1 or Gen 2 manual to get details. It was removed from the Gen 3 and newer documents. I'm not sure way but I'll suggest that it goes back in the manual. I know that lots of folks have questions about these settings. I'm glad the video helped you! Sorry I do "geek" out at times. That's my engineering/programming background. Thanks for watching!

I hope so. Since this feature/capability was added back with the HDS Gen 1 units, it has been a concern for many users that I've helped over the years. Thanks for watching!

Nice to have another Lowrance pro staff here. Ever since the capability was added to the HDS gen 1 units, it has caused a lot of concern with users. And I've found that the majority of problems can be solved with just checking the basics and scoping a data source is one of them. Thanks for watching!

Version 23.3

I do have to say the chassis ground isn’t connected yet. But + and - are of course. My switched wake up works fine. Scout mode displays the whole view. Down and forward only show like half of the info.

It sounds like the transducer may not be angled correctly. On the AT2 mount there are 2 white lines on it. The top one is for down mode while the one 2 notches lower is for the forward mode. If you have the screen set to Forward, make sure that the transducer is so that line matches the second line on the mount. In other words, the transducer should be angled up slightly. Also, the cable on the transducer should be on the rear top side of the transducer. The picture that I posted on my community page shows a transducer upside down. That will also cause a partial screen. Keep me posted. And thanks for watching.

That does sound like the cable is reverse at the transducer. The chassis ground is used to minimize noise and doesn't affect the amount of data on the screen.

@@garrywoodruff960Gary!! You are the man! It was upside down! It kinda looks like it could go either way. Your videos were so concise, I knew you’d have an answer. Thank you so much for the help! What are your thoughts on the 0 degree mount? I notice when I turn off down scan the waves stop, would that chassis ground help with that? I’m using one fs9 to do both at2 and sonar

Thank you. I appreciate you watching the videos.

Thank you. I hope that you find it useful. And thank you for watching!

You're welcome. And thank you for watching. I do try to always put something in the videos that you can take away and use.

Thanks, I'm glad that you found it useful. I'll bet that setup will look good. Let me know if you get it working.

Thank you. I appreciate you watching the video.

Hi, I used to see that problem with the initial release of the Active Target software. The power off problem was fixed in an update. Let me know what version you are running. See the No Source video to obtain the version number. And thanks for watching the videos.

@@garrywoodruff960 thanks, I think I just found the problem I had the AT2 and mfd on separate power sources no common ground, now works as advertised.

That is a problem that some folks have. Fortunately it is simple to fix. I'm glad that you found it.

It usually takes about a couple of seconds to turn the lights off. I did put a timer in the Lights and Timing video. I see you comment there. The no shutoff problem that you are seeing was fixed in an update for the Active Target module. Can you check the version? In the No Source video, I show how to check it.

That's an interesting opinion. When I worked the stores, I equated the brand choice to being similar to the Ford, Chevy or Dodge debate. Everyone had their opinion of what they preferred and justified for themselves. Each brand has pluses and minuses, you pick and choose what works for you.

There is a lot of equipment out there and it is hard to pick and choose which one(s) is right for you. Once you have a trolling motor with anchor (spot lock) capability and you get a live sonar system, the next step is to be able to point the live transducer where you want not where the trolling motor is moving to maintain position. But all of those costs can really add up. And thanks for compliment, I have a hard time not providing detailed information. I really struggle if I have to start cutting corners. I'm glad that you like the videos.

I like the remote control. The unit needs to be powered, so the cable isn't too bad especially with the waterproof connector so I can easily wire it in. And I put pedal in the foot pedal tray when I travel. And given the rough water that I run, I would prefer that the pedal is wired otherwise it would probably fly out of the boat.

Those are Simms. They are for sun protection.

@@garrywoodruff960 Yeah but do they have containers on them? It looks like you could store stuff on top of them?

They fold back to expose the fingers. You fold the tops down the cover your fingers in the cold, just like mittens. They are great when you have to drive in the cold, you just flip them down and put your fingers in them. Then you flip it up when you want to fish. And they are well insulated too. That day for around 40F, so the wind chill was brutal running.

@@garrywoodruff960 Oh, that makes more sense. To me they looked like little pockets with zippers you could put stuff inn..

Thanks I'm glad that you found the video useful. I have standby, screenshot, primary window, and secondary window for my units. I have the side panel turned on to get to the anchor mode in a few steps, but your setup is definitely faster and less effort.

You're welcome. And thank you!

Hi, I'm glad that you enjoyed the videos. If you look on the Community page, I posted the schematic a while back. Scroll down to around 11 months ago. Let me know if you found it. And if you have additional questions, please let me kow.. Here is the fuse block: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBV2MHN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here is the relay: www.amazon.com/dp/B0BB1SY3RZ?ref=fed_asin_title&th=1

@@garrywoodruff960 Yep, I found the Schematic that you posted. So, I understand the relay wiring and now know where to attach the "house battery" positive and negative and the AT2 yellow and the isolated battery positive to the relay. Do the red and black wires from the AT2 module go to the fuse box? Thanks again and apologies for the questions. I know you are an EE but I am an ME and when it comes to equipment we mostly dabble in equipment instls and provisions and not the system architecture. 😃

Hi, yes I connect the red/black wires on the AT2 power cord to the fuse block. The units also connect to the fuse block. The power wire (8 AWG) that goes into the fuse block comes through a breaker (usually 30A) near the battery. I have started adding a cutoff switch between the breaker and the battery. That allows you to completely disconnect power from the battery. This is for the red (+ positive) power wire.