Thanks! Just let me know if you have any questions.

Hi! In the video you may have seen that there is a small thermostat in the circuit of each seat. This is a protection against overheating. It will break the circuit when the seats are up to temperature and will close it again when the seats are cool enough to start heating them again. The thermostat appears to do something, but based on your comment I assume they switch off too early. Are you using the original seats and heating pads or an aftermarket solution? I assume there is no extra insulation layer in the seats. That could also influence the temperature you experience.

Hello again! First, thank you for answering me! Yes, I have everything oem, they switch off too early and doesn't heat up again... (But I think they still don't heat up to the maximum at the beginning also). I tried the heated seats of a Bmw Z3 and they heat much more, which is nice in cold weathers. My car has only 71,000 miles/115,000km, and since I bought it it does the same so I don't know how hot these seats really are...

Ja, dat doe ik als lichtelijk uit de hand gelopen hobby 😅

@mx5info jah dat hebben dr meer😅 jah ik ben aan twijfelen om dit op mijn na te bouwen (zo ben ik hier terecht gekomen)

@@Ruben_ACE_ je kunt me altijd mailen via [email protected] en even kijken op de website: mx5info.com/cruise-control-na/

Thanks for your kind words! Stay tuned. Muchísimas gracias por tu apoyo.

Dat is ook een goede keuze. Zeker als je het originele stuur wil behouden.

Yes, sure. This will work on the mk1 mx5 as well. You would need to pick a good location in the engine bay for the unit and the cable going to the throttle body. Can you send me a good picture of the engine bay? ([email protected]) For the wiring of the cruise control buttons, I would recommend using momentary switches on the steering column covers because there is no clockspring you can use. The example of a flash-off-flash switch in the video is one I used on a mk1 mx5 as resume/accelerate and set/coast switch. You can also see it in more context here: mx5info.com/cruise-control-na/

Met optie 5 kun je ook het originele stuur behouden. Er moet dan minstens een momentary switch ergens een plekje vinden voor de on/off functie. Dat is dan vooral voor het eerste gebruik en bij diagnostics. Cancel is optioneel omdat het originele NB systeem dat ook niet heeft. Het is wel prettig omdat je dan niet hoeft te remmen of koppelen. Mijn plan: eerste afmaken met het Mazda 6 stuur, en dan de Mazda Protege knoppen ombouwen voor dit systeem.

Have you seen this video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3Ldf3SpmpKbmqM

@ yes it’s just kinda hard since I’m not very familiar the electrical part of it and don’t comprehend it the soldering part. I was hoping there was any other part comes with the audio controller “ready”

@@julioargueta6252 without a doubt, the Mazda 323F offers the easiest solution, but you will not find it in North America. I will start a new search for them. I once made someone happy in Austrilia with a set that I found in Spain.

Thanks! The control buttons indeed use resistors. I am currently working on a video that will provide more detail about it. If you need the information earlier, just email me at [email protected]

I have just uploaded a new video. It also covers the resistor values for each of the cruise control buttons.

@@mx5info Thanks!

Dankjewel voor het compliment. Als je meer informatie over die Alfa air vents nodig hebt, kun je ook deze informatie nog even checken. Dit is een how-to die ik een paar jaar geleden heb geplaatst. forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=701793

You only need the Mazda 6 clockspring, when you want to use the Mazda 6, MX-5 NC, CX-7 or RX-8 steering wheel. You will then also need the airbag that goes with the replacement steering wheel. For the audio buttons alone, you can achieve your goal with the original clockspring in combination with the original steering wheel.

The basic idea is that the radio or head unit expects a certain resistance value for each button. The Mazda 6 clockspring is only required if you need more that 3 additional wires, because the NB clockspring has room for 4 wires of which 1 is use for the horn. The Mazda 6 clockspring has 8 positions. For audio 2 wires is sufficient. In case you want to add audio buttons on the original steering wheel, you could also consider to start with the Mazda Protege cruise control buttons. In this video, I explain how you can convert them to audio buttons. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3Ldf3SpmpKbmqM

Thanks for watching 😊

When using the stock NB2 wheel, it should be a direct bolt-on. Only when you have a Nardi steering wheel, additional mechanical changes are required. I also covered that part in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j2nCZoqCd5uNetU By the way: I also see an opportunity to use the standard NB wiper/cruise lever in combination with the Mazda 6 cruise control unit, but it will not be easy on you would still need to add an on/off and optional cancel switch. I will cover that in one of the next videos as well.

​@@mx5info and a cut-out needs to made in the plastic cover on the rear side of the wheel. A template is available online somewhere.

@@rene5885 absolutely correct. I mentioned it in the previous video regarding the audio controls. I have added the link in the description of this video now as well.

Yes, it is. This is also true for the NC and RX-8 steering wheels.

Thanks for the compliment. I am happy to hear that. Now you can enjoy cruise control again.

Thanks for the compliment. I am a big fan of cruise control, so I would say: "Go for it!" The Mazda 6 system is currently the most cost-effective solution. I will explain everything in detail in future videos.

@@mx5info Thank you, I will look forward to that video. Sorry to see the accident with the nice NB. But as I understood its back on the road again

@@tness72 well, parts of the accident car will be back on the road, but the car itself will not. I do however, have an almost identical project car from the same special edition. That is the car that will get the Mazda 6 cruise control.

Time for a comparison in real life. 😃 The Jaguar color has more brown and red in it. Some people compare it to the Merlot mica as well.

Thanks! The colour I went for is a colour that Jaguar used from 2010 to 2015 on some of their cars. The colour code is CHP/2100. It is called Caviar (red pearl) I had seen this video and thought it would combine very well with the beige interior from the Memories 3 special edition. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKiUaJR5e7x6jM0

Thanks! The Mazda 6 cruise control system might be the most economical solution. There is more information about that solution in later videos as well.

You could use the wiring diagram I showed in the video for inspiration. You could simply replicate that diagram. Getting the connectors that match with the connectors of the seats will make it more convenient. The same goes for the original switch, but alternative switches and relais would work as well. Just make sure to use a dedicated 20A fuse. Of course, it does not have to be in the fuse box under the dashboard.

Top! Heb je ook de juiste meter voor in het instrument cluster? Die is bij de facelift ook veranderd namelijk.

@@mx5info Ik heb een NA6 kas (Met volledige NB2 VVT aandrijflijn, subframes en binnekort ook remmerij), hij ligt er als spare voordat ze onvindbaar worden, niks heeft helaas het eeuwige leven en ze zijn erg prijzig :)

@@LocoRocoNL klopt helemaal. Heb je die oil pressure sender nu dan ook al op het VVT blok zitten? Dat moet werken met de meter uit het NA6 cluster. Ik heb de spullen hier ook liggen, voor als ik er ooit aan toe kom en het NBFL cluster netjes aan kan passen op die NA6 oliedrukmeter.

@@mx5info ​Zeker, is allemaal gewoon bolt-in, ik heb de NA6 boom op een MS3 standalone dus dit soort dingen blijven allemaal keurig werken zoals OEM. Het NBFL cluster bewerken is ook een mooie optie, ik heb er hier ook 2 liggen, ik moet is beginnen aan het uitzoeken hoe ik de kilometerstand netjes kan matchen aan mijn chassis, er moet haast wel een signaal gegenreerd kunnen worden om de stand te doen oplopen naar wat ik wil, of een EEPROM flash oid. Hierna ga ik waarschijnlijk over op een canchecked met digitale oilpressure/temp sensoren. Dan heb ik alle info die ik ooit wil en een VSS signaal voor het cluster en de ECU en is het ook geen doorn in het oog.

@@LocoRocoNL hoe een VSS gemaakt voor de NA heb ik al eerder uitgelegd en dat heb je waarschijnlijk al gezien. Bij de NBFL gaat het een beetje anders. Het signaal vanuit de versnellingsbak wordt door het instrument cluster verwerkt tot een VSS dat vergelijkbaar is met die van het NA cluster. Ook bij de Mazda 6 cruise control unit wordt diezelfde blokgolf tussen 0 en 5 Volt nog steeds gebruikt.

Dankjewel voor het compliment! Fijn dat je blijft volgen. 😊

Thanks! I am happy it inspired you. If you have any questions, just let me know.

Thanks for subscribing. Diagnostics will follow shortly. 😊

The actuator is comparable to the brake booster. It needs vacuum to pull the cable. The solenoids in the actuator are controlled by the cruise control module so it can increase, hold or decrease tension on the cable. The cruise control module uses the vehicle speed signal as a reference, regardless of the revs. The Mazda 6 cruise control system might be an alternative, as it does not use a vacuum line at all.

@@mx5info Ok thanks. So it just needs vacuum on the NA system, and doesn’t matter where that vacuum source is coming from

Thanks! Finding the right balance is always a struggle. There is so much more to share, but that will be for future videos.

That makes sense. Certainly when you don't experience any physical discomfort while driving such distances. Many of the people who came to me for a cruise control installation want it to release the strain on legs, knees and hips, but also to avoid speed tickets 😅

@@mx5info Been driving since 1984 and never received a single speeding ticket. I respect my car, and my licence, and other road users, and the law. I know… makes me Unfashionable.

To be honest, it depends on how far you took the swap. Given the fact that your engine bay is prepared for the NA actuator, I would go for that version. To get an idea of what is needed you could check the versions for the Miata, the NA and NB/NBFL starting from this page on my website: mx5info.com/cruise-control/

@@mx5info thank you very much) In swap I used all NB engine wiring and ECU. But dashboard and all gauges are from NA))

@@andrew91py than the NA approach is what would work for you. As an alternative you could consider the Mazda 6 cruise control, but I still have to finish that experiment.

Thanks! Getting a low fuel light is a fairly easy procedure that requires you to replace the instrument cluster with a later model that has this functionality. When you do this, you need to swap the odometer from your original cluster into the new cluster. This video explains how to do that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f5KYnIadidtgh6s

@@mx5info i am having nb2 model from 2001 , is it functionable?

@@costastsementzis9414 the 2001 cluster does not have it, but you can use a 2004/2005 cluster for it. I have more information about what you need to look for on this page: mx5info.com/low-fuel-lampje/

I agree. It delivered a reliable solution. Mazda was not the only one using this approach. I have seen it in Honda forums as well. With the contacts in that glass housing and the use of a gas in the housing, the contact cannot corrode either.

On one of the pictures I have found, there is some text on the back of the gauge face indicating that 60 mph = 1024 rpm for the speedometer cable. When we assume a pretty optimistic top speed of 135 mph (217 km/h) we arrive at 2304 rpm. That means 37.5 rotations per second. With each rotation providing 8 flanks, 4 up and 4 down, the maximum frequency for the signal would show 300 flanks per second. I guess the frequency for the signal would then be 150Hz. That would mean the Reed switch is not stressed at all. 😎

@@mx5info Sounds good and a new way for me to provide a variable timing signal! All the best, Rob in Switzerland

What is the difference with the LHD version? In the Netherlands you could ask Marcello Kuyer, in the UK you have Prestige Spares UK? facebook.com/@Mx5SparesUk

Thanks for your feedback. It means a lot to me that you appreciate my work. Sounds like a really nice Miata you have there.

@@mx5info No problem! I love that you reply to every comment and try to be active with your audience. I have been working for 2-3 years in high school to be able to afford my Miata as I bought It from a very loving owner, have a great day!❤️

@@Mark.Pelham Thanks. Enjoy the car. I wish you many safe miles and a lot of pleasure with it.

@@mx5info Thank you for helping me so much through all of this, I will try to live out my cars potential and enjoy it to my fullest

Thanks for watching the video.

I suggest to first finish the complete experiment, including the cruise control and then determine what can be done to prepare the installation of these features.

Thanks! Is your NA a US spec car or from somewhere else in the world? Does it currently use a clockspring or just a slip ring for the horn? The reason for asking is to determine what combination switch the car has. Does it have straight levers or bent levers? In any case it will be quite a challenge. You might need to swap towards an NB steering column to make it happen.

@@mx5info where I live all NAs were imported from the US, since Mazda dealerships started to offer the miata until the ND version, so I’m guessing it would go the same as any US model, but I would have to verify if it does use a clockspring and bent levers, but also is the 93 base model so no idea how many corners mazda decided to cut on those. So far all the maintenance I’ve had to do on it has not included removing the steering wheel. It will likely be a bit of a hassle to change the steering wheel to a more modern one, what I’ve searched so far has not yielded many positive results but a few threads in some forums and I think so far nothing in yt, until this video was recommended to me, still it is a project down the road without much priority at the moment, but nonetheless a very welcomed video

@@mrw40 Over here they were always called MX-5. The EU spec NA is very different than the NA Miata. The question about what is feasible on the original NA Miata keeps popping up. I would like to investigate that, but probably would need a local NA Miata owner to work with me on the experiment, or buy one myself (preferably low cost) ☺ But first one of the other NBs has to go. That will happen soon, as I am parting it out right now.

@@mx5info it was my understanding that the mx-5 and miata differences were not many, mostly the indicators on the sides and on some trim levels the fog lights (also well the driving side on the british versions), yet I’m not fully familiar with the euro NA other than those small changes, not sure on other internals; hopefully you’re able to experiment on an NA, since all the information available regarding the steering wheel is mostly replacements and not (as I call this kind of change) QoL (quality of life) upgrades. Somehow it has remained as an unexplored area on these cars, despite all the other upgrades and different pieces available to them.

@@mrw40 the European NA is more like the Canadian NA. They had no airbag and a different combination switch. The steering column has a smaller diameter because of that combination switch. It look a lot like the combination switch from the B2200 and B2600 pickup trucks. Instead of using relays, a lot of current goes through the combination switch. They don't use a clockspring, but a slip ring, only for the horn. There will be many other differences I am not yet aware of.

Thanks!

Thanks for the compliment. Someone I know is working on the double auto-down and some other features. 😊

There is more to come on this topic. I have connected the steering wheel lights with the interior lighting and will explain what I did and what else is feasible.

I've got an NA with a Nardi wood steering wheel from an NB: I'm considering just the 323f stereo control mod for the time being- any suggestions for a source on your side of the Atlantic?

​@@BillGeddes I have found some in Spain in the past, but they are hard to find. One of the subscribers is working on converting the Mazda Protege version from cruise control to audio. You might want to wait for the results and follow that route. However, the regular clockspring of the NA only supports the airbag and a single wire for the horn. I guess that will be your biggest chalange. I would like to try if I can use an NB combination switch on a US NA Miata. That would open up the possibilities to switch to 4 or 8 wires in the clockspring. It will not be for the faint hearted. I would need the opportunity to try that locally first on one of the imported NA Miatas.

Muchísimas gracias Edu.

Voor de Europese MX-5 heb je wat meer werk. Je hebt ook een andere schakelaar nodig in plaats van de hendel aan het stuur. Het is echter goed te doen. Ik heb meer informatie over alle modellen staan op mijn website. Je zou de pagina voor de Miata en die voor de NA alvast door kunnen nemen. Ik ga hier ook nog een video-serie over maken. mx5info.com/cruise-control/

Using a single stage airbag on a dual stage system would cause an airbag light, unless you fool the system by placing a resistor in the second plug. I have done that once on an RX-8 by using a 2.7 Ohm resistor. The general belief is that the resistor values of both stages are the same, somewhere around that 2.7 Ohm value, but I also read about people using a 2.2 Ohm resistor. When connecting a single stage of a dual stage airbag, the question is which stage you would connect. My best guess would be to use the yellow connector only, since that one has remained after the Mazda 6 switched from a dual stage to a single stage system. The whole idea behind the dual stage airbag is to be able to deploy the airbag in two stages. Therefore the airbag has two inflators that can be triggered separately with a differentce in power and thus effect. Let's assume that for a collision at a relatively low speed the airbag is deployed at 30% of the maximum power to prevent driver injuries as a result of the airbag being deployed. Then the system can decide to deploy the second stage a few milliseconds later to ensure the airbag no longer holds any risks for people that come to the rescue. In a heavy collision the other airbag stage might fire first. By connecting only one stage, the second one will not fire. In all cases it is better to connect at least one stage of the airbag. This is what the airbag system in the MX-5 NB Miata expects. The choice for which one you connect is yours. As you may have seen in the video, I have both versions of the Mazda 6 airbag available. I can test how the car responds when I only connect one of the stages. If you like, I can test that for the yellow and the orange connector. My expectation is that the system will not notice the difference because both resistance values are likely to be the same.

Als het voor audio is, kun je hier de weerstandswaarden terugvinden. Die staan bij de afbeelding van het NC stuur. mx5info.com/audio-knoppen-stuur/

You can also use the clockspring from an NC. The NC clocksprings here in Europe are all for a single stage airbag and therefore have one connector for the airbag. I might switch to an NC steering wheel myself once the experiment with the Mazda 6 cruise control is completed. For now I chose the Mazda 6 steering wheel, airbag and clockspring, because there are many of them and therefore the parts are cheaper.

It depends on the steering column and combination switch that has been used in your car. The US version of the NA had an airbag and a clockspring from the start. The Canadian and European NAs did not have that. The steering columns have different diameters and the combination switch is also completely different. The combination switch for the Canadian and European NAs are very similar if not the same as what Mazda used on the B2200 and B2600 pickup trucks. They did not have a clockspring, but a slip ring for the horn only. The steering column and combination switch of the American NA Miata is very similar to that of the NB. You best bet might be to fit an NB/NB2 steering column and combination switch on your NA. You will have to do some wiring of course, but it opens up the same options as discussed in this video. Coming from a European NA, the wiring could be a challenge, because instead of using relais, all power travels through the combination switch.

Daar zitten nog een paar leuke dingen in om uit te zoeken. Zal uiteindelijk wel lukken. 😊