This uses the optical communication port on any MID approved meter which is the European standard. I’m just gonna say this before certain comments arise you cannot reset the meter to 0 without specialist authorisation and software from the manufacturer which requires the use of computer and special test rates, so it would not be possible to do this.
@Tarsinion2 ай бұрын
Thanks for all your efforts and the video. I cannot, however, for the life of me get the screen to lift off of my bangle.js2, even after carefully double-checking my 3D-printer's heat bed with an infrared thermometer. The temperature should be just right, the bangle is heated throughout and yet my suction cub doesn't entice any movement in the screen, even with enough violence that would risk tearing the ribbon connector. Is there some kind of trick to it? I've been at it for hours and I'm afraid of slow-cooking the device a bit too much.
@Espruino2 ай бұрын
There's no real trick - some are easier than others, but it can take several minutes for the heat to get right through the glass to the glue. If it really doesn't move you can get a thin scalpel/razor blade and push it between the glass and plastic - if you push in gently it should nudge the LCD over slightly and that may be enough to loosen the glue enough for the suction cup. If you push in and lean it over you can lever the display out but it can dent the plastic slightly (and risk cracking the screen if you're not careful) so should really be a last resort
@danialtun54312 ай бұрын
Makita 18v 3A is inside how many battery 5A is how many battery have
@clinteastwood82222 ай бұрын
It’s only when you come to driving high demand power hungry tools you realize why the OEM is needed and worth the extra cost 💵. However if you’re only drilling a 5mm hole now and again and screwing and unscrewing half a dozen small screws I get the appeal of a good knock off battery. Having said that I still wouldn’t buy knock offs 🪫 as I’m always scared of electrical fires and shorts especially if I left the battery on charge overnight because I forgot to take it off. It’s a lot of power being stored in a small box 🔥.
@ccomin6483 ай бұрын
Hello, Thank you for the video. However, I encountered an issue with acetone during my work 😢. Would it be possible to purchase a new support for the electronic board of the Bangles 2 watch?
@Espruino3 ай бұрын
The case is made of ABS plastic so acetone would dissolve it :( What do you mean by "support for the electronic board"? Do you mean the watch body itself? I'm afraid we don't sell those
@bamspay3 ай бұрын
I thought I saw a video addressing text and call notifications but now I can't find it. What are the options when a call or text comes in. Thanks.
@Espruino3 ай бұрын
There's a bit of information on it in the readme for the Messages UI app: banglejs.com/apps/?id=messagegui&readme - that might be what you're after? But if you have other questions it might be better to ask in the forum at forum.espruino.com/
@StuartDesign3 ай бұрын
Not sure if you can help but does the MDBT42Q have captive capability? Or is that just a Puck.js feature?
@Espruino3 ай бұрын
Hi - I'm not quite sure what you mean. You mean Bluetooth Central (so the ability to connect to other devices)? That works on all Bluetooth Espruino boards we sell.
@StuartDesign3 ай бұрын
@@Espruino oh I'm sorry I mean like capacitive touch... like on pin d11 on the puck.js... but on the smaller MDBT42Q
@Espruino3 ай бұрын
@@StuartDesign Ahh right. Well, capsense direct on that pin is built into the Puck.js because it needs an extra resistor in there. But if you use two GPIO and add a resistor then you can use this code to do it on any Espruino Bluetooth board: www.espruino.com/NRF52LL#hardware-capacitive-sense-on-two-pins
@StuartDesign3 ай бұрын
test
@comeinhandynow3 ай бұрын
How many cell batteries in there 4 or 8?
@StuartDesign4 ай бұрын
I'm pretty new to wiring... what do you recommend for making temporary connections with this board (I'm just experimenting not following the project)... breadboard wires seem to jiggle loose even if I bend them... should I just solder? Or am I missing something obvious? Cheers.
@Espruino4 ай бұрын
There are a few interesting suggestions at electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/249140/how-can-i-make-connection-on-pcb-circuit-board-holes-without-solder-for-proto but personally i just poke the wire through the whole, twist it back onto itself and around, If you want to do a lot of prototypes with it I'd consider soldering on pin strip and poking it into a proto-board. However in this case, you're dealing with voltage from a car battery that you *really* don't want to short out or connect to places it shouldn't (if 12v gets on one of the board's GPIO pins it'll kill it instantly) and only 4 connections to the board, so I'd say soldering would be a pretty good idea in this case.
@blueiicey4 ай бұрын
upgrading my banglejs 1 today!
@JoseA.MoraRamirez4 ай бұрын
Amo su software gracias por todo
@krollpeter6 ай бұрын
I see the difference. The originals are better, but they are still overpriced.
@sjebsstuff13546 ай бұрын
i have found myself watching a lot of your videos lately, as an owner of a BangleJS 2. you (and anyone else working there at Espruino) make pretty fun stuff, both video-wise and hardware-wise!
@werty1st6 ай бұрын
Very nice to have it as a standard library now :) I need to try it with Shelly and ESPHome devices because my HA is out of BLE range most of the time.
@Espruino6 ай бұрын
Yes - it works great with ESPHome Bluetooth scanners here at least - I use a bunch of them dotted around the house. You just need to adjust the scan interval as by default they only scan 10% of the time so it's easy for them to miss things
@industrialvectors6 ай бұрын
Quite interesting.
@Triro6 ай бұрын
Hey Espruino, Do you guys ever plan on making a Bangle JS 3? With upgraded hardware such as a Blood oxygen level sensor, more ram / storage, and a better chip, and even maybe a better more colorful display. I currently love my Bangle JS 2, just wondering if theirs ever a plan on releasing a newer ish version that would sorta compete with modern smart watches.
@acesw61247 ай бұрын
I only get undefined back
@Espruino7 ай бұрын
Please can you ask in the forum and post up exactly the code you're using?
@acesw61247 ай бұрын
will do@@Espruino
@rjnc607 ай бұрын
Really liking the looks of this watch. Tempted to get one.
@cc9557 ай бұрын
I bought the Bangl.js 2two weeks ago. After the first charge happened without problems, installed a couple of apps I had problems for about ten days. Although it still had more than 25% charge last night, I had to charge it this morning. Put the phone on charge (the correct way) even for hours, it can only be turned on when the charging cable is plugged in. When disconnected although the battery has been charged, it will no more let itself be turned on by pressing the center button. Can you help me or give me a suggestion?
@Espruino7 ай бұрын
Hi - this is a Bangle.js 2 that you bought? KZbin comments aren't the easiest way to solve things, so maybe you could post on the forum? forum.espruino.com/ Ideally though, try a factory reset in case something you installed/changed is using up so much power it runs the battery down and can't charge (eg GPS on constantly) and also try plugging the charge cable into a different USB charger just in case.
@Totoro-kd6pk8 ай бұрын
Hello Gordon. Thank you for the Bangle and thank you for the videos. I intend to use my bangle.js 2 as an alarm wrist clock. I tried it with that entend but the vibration motor proved to be too weak, compared to that, for instance of the Fitbit Charge 4 for instance. Do you know if there would be a way for me to upgrade the vibration motor with something stronger ?. Thx.
@Espruino7 ай бұрын
Hi! You may have some success just changing the "Default Alarm Pattern" in Scheduler settings. By default it's two short buzzes, but you can make it 3 long buzzes (===) or even something custom which can make a big difference to how much you feel it. But in theory yes, you could change the motor. I did look at getting it changed but the manufacturer didn't want to do it because they were concerned the increased vibration and also power draw might cause problems, so I think you'd want to be careful.
@guillaume84378 ай бұрын
Hello. Thanks for this nice video. I have a question about usability. This watch is defined as hackable, does it mean that I can run it right at the moment I unpack it from the box or do I have to create all the SW by myself? Other question : how good is the GPS? Regards
@Espruino7 ай бұрын
Hi! Yes, it's totally usable as a watch from the moment you get it from the box - there are hundreds of pre-made apps you can use, but if you do ever want to change it, all the source from those apps is easily available so it's easy to change the apps or make new ones. The GPS is fine for logging runs/etc, but you do really need to upload AGPS data using the app loader before you use it to ensure it'll get a fix in a few seconds (it's easy to forget that phones with an internet connection do it automatically). If you just start the GPS and leave it to find satellites on its own it can take several minutes or fail completely if you're moving the watch around a lot.
@guillaume84377 ай бұрын
@@Espruino thank you for the clear detailed explanation. I come from the Tomtom Runner 2 and as you may know, Tomtom have discontinued their Sports activity to focus only on navigation. As a consequence, my watch is almost only a step and calories counter, and heart rate sensor without possibility of exporting data and running tracks. For this reason, I am looking for another option that wouldn't involve the dependence on dedicated servers that can live the same fate as Tomtom's. That is why the bangle.js sounds as a good alternative. Besides, regarding the GPS starting sequence, I had the same issue with my current watch and there was a QuickGPS function, so it is not much different. Thanks anyway.
@bradfordkraft9 ай бұрын
would love a diy board that had the software pre-programmed
@Espruino9 ай бұрын
We do have a tool that lets you load pre-made code onto one of our boards with a few clicks from a web browser (espruino.com/apps) - if you're actually interested in this I could add the game, but even now it's really simple. Just go to www.espruino.com/Pixl.js+Pong then click the little coffee cup icon in the bottom right of the code there, click connect in the top left of the page that comes up, then the upload button, and it's done. You don't have to type a thing.
@Geab129 ай бұрын
When re-assembling; which glue would work to get the display tight in place?
@Geab129 ай бұрын
@@Espruino thank you
@jimellis18109 ай бұрын
I recently got a purported Makita DHR242 rotary hammer drill with 2 18V 6Ah batteries and a DC18RC rapid charger. I also have a completely genuine DMP180 air pump with 2 18V 3Ah batteries and a real rapid charger. Just the 2 real 18V 3Ah batteries and rapid charger cost almost the same price as the DHR242 rotary hammer kit. Just looking at all the labelling, etc, it is hard to tell that hammer drill kit is not genuine. It works fine but there are some interesting differences. The purported DC18RC rapid charger has no fan and thus is very lightweight and takes close to 3 hours to charge the purported 6Ah battery. The non-genuine 6Ah batteries will not actually fit into the genuine rapid charger. If you press the release button, you will see a red mark on a genuine battery and these 6Ah batteries don't have it. The non-genuine 6Ah batteries won't actually slide into my DMP180. The genuine 3Ah batteries will slide into the purported DHR242 and actually run it just fine, but they don't slide into the non-genuine rapid charger. If you measure the voltage across the slide terminals for the 6Ah batteries it is sitting around 20V. When the 3Ah batteries are not slid into a device, there is no voltage you can read across the slide terminals.
@Marcos3270910 ай бұрын
Hi, is there a way to add infrared receiver to the board ?
@Espruino10 ай бұрын
There are two pins on the rear of the board (under the battery) called UARX/UATX which I think may be unused and you could maybe solder a sensor onto - but it'd be quite a big job to do. The standard IR sensors like www.espruino.com/IRReceiver are really just too big to fit in the watch itself
@Marcos3270910 ай бұрын
@@EspruinoFirst of all thank you for responding, great job with the projects man. I will try and do what you suggested unless you have another idea. I am aware of the spacing issue , that's why Im going to try to get in a case like the casio AE1200. Also not sure if there are any battery consumption concerns. I did try sending an email to the mentioning the a casio module like bangle. Let me know if you do like paid sessions so con ask you a couple of questions.
@Marcos3270910 ай бұрын
@@Espruino Was just reading and it seems I can just add a IR transmitter and use the receiver on the Puckjsv2 to get the codes. Do you think that would be easier ?
@Espruino10 ай бұрын
@@Marcos32709 adding an IR transmitter would definitely be easier - there are two pins, UARX/UATX on the board that you could just wire an IR LED across - although that would still mean peeling back the battery for access. It would be an interesting project but still quite difficult. If you're just trying to control a TV or something like that, just putting a Puck.js (which already has an IR transmitter) by the TV and then controlling the Puck from the Bangle via Bluetooth would be by far the easiest option.
@blueiicey10 ай бұрын
This is making me want to buy a bangle.js 2. I have a bangle.js 1 right now! Amazing work
@ys62110 ай бұрын
Incredible looking project. Can fitness tracking integrate with any apps? And do you have any advice on porting apple fitness data over?
@Espruino10 ай бұрын
On Android Gadgetbridge provides some logging of data, or if you record runs using the built-in GPS you can download the data in a format that works with Strava/etc - but there's no 'integration' as such, or ability to import data from Apple Watch. If you're seriously into health tracking and want a deep integration (and don't want to do some work yourself to get things exactly as you like them) then Bangle.js may not be for you I'm afraid.
@quarteratom10 ай бұрын
That's a nice looking screen. Is the backlight turned off completely when it sleeps, does it use electricity when it sleeps and is not updating? I wonder how easy it is to customize the operating system itself.
@user-mq4ki1fr2c11 ай бұрын
Good~
@garctin11 ай бұрын
I like my bangle 2 a lot!
@7thdanwebninja11 ай бұрын
Just had mine delivered, what a lovely package and high quality product, excellent video.
@Jack_the_pngtuber4 ай бұрын
sad that the display is very dim and it’s unreplaceable though.
@exxon47_28 күн бұрын
@@Jack_the_pngtuber at the very least the screen is transflective just like the pebble so it is actually extremely bright in the sun
@Jack_the_pngtuber28 күн бұрын
@@exxon47_ yes but very inefficient for a torch app
@buildyear8611 ай бұрын
where are the axis sensors and magentic sensors and barometric pressure sensor / altimeter sensor / temperature sensor?
@Espruino11 ай бұрын
I just added a labelled picture here showing where each IC is: www.espruino.com/Bangle.js2+Technical#pcb
@StuartDesign11 ай бұрын
Would using the Bangle.JS 2 with the web IDE over a Wired Connection allow me to get over the limitation of not being able to have the Bangle.JS 2 paired with an iPhone simultaneously?... If not, is there another work around?
@Espruino11 ай бұрын
You can't use a wired connection on Bangle.js 2 I'm afraid. You may be able to open www.espruino.com/ide/remote/ in a Web Bluetooth capable web browser on the iPhone and communicate with the Bangle that way though (you can then run espruino.com/ide on desktop and initiate a remote connection). On Android if you're using Gadgetbridge there's a remote connection button in Gadgetbridge's App Loader
@StuartDesign Жыл бұрын
Could I extend the amount of time it takes to do a reset (extend it past 10 seconds)?
@Espruino Жыл бұрын
Yes, if you do Bangle.setOptions({btnLoadTimeout:0});setInterval(()=>E.kickWatchdog(),1000) it'll never reset from a long-press - if you want to be able to reset it with a very long press, you can adjust the call to kickWatchdog to stop calling it after the button has been held for a certain amount of time
@TomislavVanDamme Жыл бұрын
Great Smartwatch
@someonesays8022 Жыл бұрын
I own one now. And I must say thank you for this great device. I have a PineTime and every thing I didn't like about that device is so much better on the Bangle js 2. The battery, the always on screen, the polished web interface, many aps, the settings, etc. Really such a great product!
@toast99bubbles Жыл бұрын
My bulb seems to be different to yours. The bit that controls it is write only and you have to write a byte array of CC-23-33 for on and CC-24-33 for off, with the UUID being FFD5 and FFD9. Not sure where to go from there, but rtrying to figure it out.
@toast99bubbles Жыл бұрын
@@Espruino I'll give it a go this coming weekend. Thanks for the encouragement.
@gamermerijn Жыл бұрын
Need one asap🎉. Was looking for an Open health tracker watch. Awesome product
@gjeraldh2989 Жыл бұрын
this is such a cool project, but i had not heard about it until today. i will be getting one of these soon. i really like how much attention had been paid towards UX, lack of that is generally the downfall of these projects.
@lordmoose213 Жыл бұрын
Thank you, very easy to follow walkthrough! is it possible to replace the battery?
@pornpimontungmepol8144 Жыл бұрын
🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🌴🥭🥭🥭🥭🥭
@industrialvectors Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the guide
@industrialvectors Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the guide.
@spaceymen Жыл бұрын
Excellent video/demo
@KanePat Жыл бұрын
MDBT42Q, Is this still the best mcu to use now in 2023 for espruino ?
@Espruino Жыл бұрын
The nRF52833 or nRF52840 offer more RAM, storage, USB and some newer Bluetooth features, but for the vast majority of uses the nRF52832 (in the MDBT42Q) is still more than good enough. When we release new boards we'll probably do so using the newer MCUs to future proof them though.
@KanePat Жыл бұрын
@@Espruino thanks!
@markcra Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video Gordon, loads of useful insights. Explains why my 3d printer heated bed wasn't unsticking the screen glue... I was too nervous about getting the temperature up high enough (chickened out in the 80 C's as I'd never had the print bed that hot before and I didn't have a secondary means of knowing what temperature the bed was to ensure it didn't go over 100C and damage the screen).
@murdo_mck Жыл бұрын
Did you notice on the Makita one the third exposed metal sliding contact is actually two separate pairs electrically isolated? I'm trying to find out why because I have a BL1830 which is rejected by the drill. Charge indicator on the power tool says it is full (it is 20V across the outer slide connectors) and it works if I unlatch and slide it out 1 mm, but press it fully home and the tool work light operates when I pull the trigger but the motor does not run. The near part of the third contact is at the same voltage as the +ve terminal but the far part is at the voltage of the -ve terminal on this rejected battery - on a good one it is also at the +ve terminal voltage. What function does it serve? Curiously, the charger does not connect to the +ve terminal, instead it joins the two parts of the third contact together and uses them for charging.
@gordonwilliams8799 Жыл бұрын
Wow, that's interesting! No, I'd never noticed that. Maybe it allows the drill battery to detect if it is inserted into a drill that has a connection to that third pin (which would short them together)? It doesn't really explain why half-sliding it in would make the drill work though!
@murdo_mck Жыл бұрын
The drill connects to the furthest part of the third sliding connector, the near part if it is not pressed fully home. If the drill contact is at the +ve potential the drill works fully. If it is at the -ve potential the drill work light operates as normal but the motor does not. Clearly this allows the battery to disable the high current part of the drill. Same in other power tools no doubt. I suppose it could be used if the battery temperature was too high or the cells were too imbalanced.
@toolscientist7 ай бұрын
@@murdo_mckthe deepest of the 2 pins is a signalling pin. High means the tool is allowed to run, low means tool won't run. I cover it in my 6th video. Unfortuantely I don't think you'll be able to fix your battery. The BMS has likely permanently locked itself.
@murdo_mck7 ай бұрын
@@toolscientist I was able to get this battery to work with the Makita charger and the drill. It had been rejected by the charger either 1 or 2 times only before I replaced the cells so the BMS had not locked. I shorted together the front and back contacts of the third slider (the small split one) together with the battery positive slider. BTW it is a 3.0 Ah first generation (no charge indicator) BL1830. Thank you for your video, it is reassuring to know I'm probably missing out only on low voltage protection which I can do without. I have confirmed it charges to the same end point voltage as an unmodified battery and the cells remain balanced.