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Interesting idea. I place them upside down on a bakers rack when I am going to recharge them, and upside right when they are good to go.

Thanks Phillip! I got lucky finding that video on KZbin to help me out... made the whole process much easier!

Our old stacked washer and dryer had it on the bottom, but it was the thing that was stacked, so it was at a good working level, and I could replace it from the front... still... I would kind of expect that they would last longer. Thanks for stopping by!

That is a good point, my typical "instant thought" is to buy a new one... but they just end up doing the same things. The heater element does not seem to be built for longevity! Thanks for stopping by!

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If the bits of difficult material is limited, know that you can purchase just the door. Someone in the area ought to be able to get you in the right direction. The thing with this type of system is that the material is kind of interesting, but real wood really cannot be made to stay smooth and flat like this does, and the covering can be acquired to fit - and that is because they are typically standard. So, it depend on your comfort level. Me? I would try to remove it - CAREFULLY - and if I messed anything up? I would smooth that portion out. This can even be done to match the detail portion grooves... wood filler (this material is basically like wood dust glued together), or any type of filler material you like to fix any blemishes. And, if all should go horribly wrong? Buy a new door, maybe two. But if the amount of doors ends up being "all," then you absolutely lose NOTHING trying to remove the bits that stick too well. Now, the last ditch effort, and you've got to be careful with it - and protect your hands - use a heat gun only to the point where you see the material is soft. At that point, use a scraper, and try to scrape it off - keep the heat from the heat gun off and away from you, and anything flammable while using such a thing... that is why I decided to try the hair dryer.... and for me, that worked great - but I have seen people simply rip it off, or use a heat gun... just be careful. Also, fixing it up yourself adds an amount of pride to the end result - I absolutely loved how mine looked when I got done with them!

At this point, I have four 5ah batteries, a five 4ah, I still got the 3ah, it is the same size as the 4ah... and two 2.6ah, that I really do not get around to using. This is the 40V system. I have a number of the One + 18V batteries as well. I picked up a single multi battery charger for those, because I only had a couple of single chargers. I spread them out on a bakers rack, and I power off the chargers once they are charged up, and I place them upside right when charged, and upside down when they are waiting for a turn on a charger. Primarily, I use them for Edger, Weed Whacker, the blower, and chainsaws. And just saying that informs me that I have a lot of work to do - LOL!

I just found where the kittens have made a hidden scratch I get to repair in a bathroom... they are adorable - and keep me busy! Thanks for watching!

I love it, the light bounces around nicely. My office is always flat white for this reason.

​@@rayhayden Update. Absolutely loving my flat white in every room of my rental apartment. Just put up some halloween lights in the windows, and the orange and purple bouncing off the white looks amazing. I love it. Can only imagine what it's going to be like in Christmas time with blue lights in the windows. Out of curiousity, what brand did you use here in this video? I used Behr Premium plus.

That little pin that sticks into the Bar? Or the bolt itself? If it is the pin, it is a real pain to get that thing through the hole on the bar. Once on, I am able to get the tension well enough, but anytime the saws "grab" or kind of kick back, they need some more attention. That is a pain, but they have done a tremendous amount of work around the property!

@@rayhayden sorry I wasn’t clear. It’s the little metal curved piece that holds in the screwdriver/wrench tool that lost its tension so the tool keeps falling out. There’s probably no way for me to get it to be tight again and I’ll either figure out another way to attach it to the saw or just keep the tool on the shelf. Thanks

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Always!

Yep, ours has 12 legs... and that single bed in front of our bed is also going to get the PVC treatment. We purchased all the material from a specialty PVC company to get the parts we needed, and close to the length we needed. They make a huge cutter tool, and we can cut the pieces with that, so they are far more even, than if we used a hand saw. The big deal is to put it all together upside down, so you can make sure that when you glue them together (it dries very fast - oh, use CLEAR glue!) they are in the perfect, or near that, position... it is slightly forgiving. We put it together in the garage, and turned it sideways to bring it in the bedroom, through the house... then I just assembled the bed on top of it. We have wood under the mattress that came with the original Sleep Number bed... that bed is basically an air mattress with a bed around it... kind of neat., and the pump thing that keeps the air at the perfect pressure. Our wood, under the mattress is actually mated together with special attachments - simple really, but if you take 1/2 of the bed width, you can cut a large piece of wood right down the center - and this is so you can ever MOVE the bed, because that wood is going to be heavy. We also have that air mattress thing, and I don't think that weighs much different that a real mattress - but we do not have the box spring... and those don't really weight much anyway. Now... we have the 12 legs, but we also have large blank spots between them... If I was to add more full support across the entire thing, I'd just need additional "four way" connections and add rows of pipe between them... still having 12 legs, but more pipes between... we can do it any way we want... but my wife and I decided to try and do it as minimally as possible. On the custom pipes, they DO cost more, but they do not have any of the writing on thee pipe - they are made to the same quality, and a but better, but without the writing on them, we could not use them commercially... that and the custom set has a nice shine to them, and we can get them in a number of colors, or mix and match! If you have more questions, think about it a bit, and ask me more! Ray

Actually, we do. The walls are primed and painted, but if I do a minor repair (cats do stuff), I may need to do a repair, and then I do prime (Kilz2), and then we paint. If it matches up nicely, I leave it alone, if it is not really working, I will normally paint that wall, corner to corner... that is rare, but always worked.

@@rayhayden okay, it looks really nice 👌

We actually returned ours because it tried to kill me three times... we figured the third time was the charm - and honestly, the shop could not fix it, so they refunded our money. Oddly enough, even with a restocking fee, we had scored more value from the work it did, and that opened up the process... I would NOT recommend DR Power Premiere 26 to anyone at this point. Once bitten - forever shy!

LOL - I wanted to video the entire thing, but it is the type of work that I feel kind of requires people with more education, training, and experience doing it... it is heavy, and bulky. Thanks for watching!

@@rayhayden It would probably be entertaining more than educational, and may get lots of views, lol

Maybe true, but in thinking about how we had to do it, knowing NOTHING about it when we started - other than it was hard wired - I have this thing about not dying whilst doing something dumb... I don't want to win a Darwin Award! But it took a while, and the door thing was a nightmare. The funny thing is that it was (honestly) really just sitting in the hole, it wasn't bolted down or anything to the cabinets. That was a bit interesting to see.

@@rayhayden Iol

Thank for watching!

I do not... right now, I have a number of working saws, I also have the pole mounted 10" one, but to not use it of late. Primarily, I normally have to cut down some bits of tree, or trim up limbs that break off from the tree, and that longer saw I picked up can use the 14" bar and chain, so I use that a lot, slight stronger motor. Thanks for asking!

During the day, we keep the bed a bit away from the wall (cats) and we also cover it in plastic sheeting (again, cats). At night, we take off the plastic sheeting and roll that up - placed in the closet for the night. We also keep the pillows off the bed unless we are sleeping in it... again... cats. But we put the pillows away below our television stand - safe from the cats. That bed in front of the bed... we will often sit there, kind of relaxing with the cats, and we bring pillows out to lean against the main bed, and the cats all hang out with us there. The pillows at night are up against the back wall, and they typically stay put... mine has a cat or two sleeping on it with me... when we are relaxing on the bed in front of the bed, those pillows stay put too. I will be making a PVC frame for that bed as well though. No rush, but it needs to be fixed up that way as well.

I actually do not recall if they had a pre created attachment point, but I am sure I did not poke, or drill, any holes for handles. I am thinking (it has been a while), that either, the handles snapped into place, or there was a hole structure set up to attach them. Thank you for asking, sorry I could not be more specific.

I have no issue with being under the mower to change the blades, the Bulldog lift and the part it is attached to (specifically for the jack / lift), are very strongly attached. I have given it a push or two to check it out, and I have no indication of it being unsafe. A jack stand on both sides would be fine - just in case - cinder blocks (like I would originally use) are a horrible idea, because they'd just shatter. I love the Bulldog because it doesn't move, and the metal skid plate is really well connected as well. When it is jacked up, it is like a very secure tripod... but again, jack stands under both sides is not a bad idea. Thanks for watching!

Our knobs on all of our cabinets in this property had been plastic, but they screwed into the cabinets doors and drawers from the inside of the door. On this project, I simply had to remove the screw from the back side, and hold the knob in my other hand as it came loose. I am unsure of plastic coatings being on door knobs.

The INSTANT aid is to folks like myself, who live in other jurisdictions... if the exam is wide enough on being remote, we will be able to test without going to California. The NCBE is dishonestly Objective - sure there is only one answer which COULD even be correct (I checked all 810 of the most recent retired MBE's), but the problem is - and I believe this is WHY a lot of people miss a good number of the questions - is that the "correct" answer is not so good, or flatly sucks. No one in their right mind would go that route, and it is the only correct answer! I have been all over CalBar to ensure that the MCQ's are HONESTLY Objective, and FAIR. Now that they have Kaplan creating the MCQ's, we have a better shot at it. Further, I am also all over CalBar to drop the Written Section due to it being SUBJECTIVELY graded, when a second read occurs, the HIGHER score should be the one used - no splitting the difference, which magnifies how badly the SUBJECTIVE grading is! Further to that, when they dropped the cut score, they dropped the Third Read, which DOES have people now failing, who WOULD HAVE passed, but CalBar said that the number of people failing would be insignificant... sure, unless WE are one of those who WOULD have passed. So, for right now? Yes, Kaplan is superior in every single way to the NCBE, and I am still working on things. However, I told CalBar that if they took the exam back to REMOTE, and I could take the exam from Florida? I would resume testing. The way things look right now? I'll probably be sitting for Feb 2025 forward as need be!

I agree, different cabinets can handle things differently. These are an "easy to install" item where they can be used as such. The company also makes a wide variety of other sorts of latches. In fact, we had broken a couple of these (because they could rotate to be unlocked, or locked, that is a weak point), and I replaced the broken latch with their pother latch,, which must be screwed in. For that, I had to also make pilot holes so that I do not split the wood on those cabinets. Thanks for sharing!

Bar Oil can be found at many hardware stores, especially those who sell chainsaws. I pick ours up at Home Depot, Lowes, and I am sure Tractor Supply will have it also... as well Rural King... oh, and some of the tractor or mower stores ought to have it as well - because if they have yard (or field) equipment, chainsaws are probably part of what they also sell.

Well... years! We don't live in that home anymore, we moved up to Central Florida, but we did the very same thing here, same way. Exterior, Semi Gloss paint... we buy a quart of it and just go with it... test a bit on the tile... make sure we can clean it up. Now, two things happen, because we clean kind of hard core with all of our cats. Sometimes, we will "clean up" a bit of the paint... this is due to bleach and scrubbing over time if a cat makes some sort of mess in the same spot over and over for a while... just touch it up, and that is good to go. The second thing is related to that, what I call a "peel up." For some reason, the seal of the paint to the grout was not solid enough - could be that it wasn't dry when I painted it, or dry enough when I cleaned it up... if it happens right away, I just touch it up, clean it up, and I'm done. The other thing that is GOING to happen is dirt over time... mop a floor, and we spread dirt around while also cleaning it up... over time, it will settle in the grout, low spot on the floor and all that. I can normally do a light scrubbing on the grout lines and clean them up good as new... but if it has been a while - more than a year or two - another coat of paint on the grout line, and it will be good as new as well! The thing for me is that the stains, and other options, cannot really be one and done... this can be - with some maintenance. I don't mind the upkeep of it, and it is painfully easy to do... and this is why we have been using this technique for more than two decades now... it just works for us.

@@rayhayden Thank you SO MUCH! Because I found the PERFECT color in a SW paint. As an interior designer, color/shade matching is a huge factor, as is for most people I’d imagine. With the grout stains, color options are just too limited. We also have a cat. He’s a long haired seal point Birman/Ragdoll. He’s absolutely perfect if only he didn’t shed. But boy! Does he shed! Totally worth it though. He’s very puppy like. Anyway, I plan to move forward with your tutorial here for a number of reasons: 1. Being able to get the perfect color/shade for the grout lines. 2. You are absolutely correct in that regardless of what you use, with high traffic areas, etc. there’s no way around periodic touch ups and upkeep. Thank you so much for this tutorial and for your thorough response and explanation.

Painting the grout and cleaning up is not all that difficult. I normally did a room at a time, and would start to clean that up as it would be dry enough to do that. I have never had the latex paint stick forever to the tile, it normally just comes right off. If I rubbed a little too much, I would leave it alone, and just retouch that spot when I finished the room... I prefer to do the painting, then cleanup, then touch up... if that makes sense. I really love the way it looks when it is done, and it is even fun during the process to see how it is going... just brought back some nice memories of the projects... thanks!

Some of the cabinets are different, and it was a while ago I put this one together... this one had little hangers that went on the sides, and the shelves sat on those. I recall that the instructions had not been the greatest, but that unit was for our Home Owners Association, and it lasted a long time over in the Pool area - it might still be there!