I'm having the same issue with certain PETG jamming my A1.

Can you please share the link to the designs of your poop deflector and poop collector box?

get rid of the titan extruder and cloned v6 and use Lmakers bmg direct drive extruder mod fully 3d printable using petg or Asa and genuine e3d v6 with bltouch

It's is ... shhhhhhhhh. More reliable prints with much more less issues or concerns - have the mini and new A1 with AMS.

thanks

Omg! Thank you so much!

When you turned over to that muffler i actually lol'd. that is a hilarious look, glad it works

WHAT this is madness, thank you, how the heck was i supposed to figure this issue out otherwise LOL

Not really true. You can 3d print the lower part of the glock frame, and order the glock parts online without a CNC machine.

Looking at the photo of the pistol and loaded magazine in an evidence box; the magazine, barrel and slide all look like original Glock parts. The frame looks like it may have been a print. The texture and reflection of the camera flash lead me to this conclusion. I also did not see any evidence of the usual serial number plate on it. If this print was modeled on the original frame it would also indicate an older model pistol (straight lines on the grip instead of form indentations for fingers). A broken frame is a rare occurrence for Glocks, but I have seen it happen on a training weapon. After a not so intelligent Sergeant (now a Captain) combined the parts of two pistols to make a new one with mixed serial numbers, I found out that this is NOT legal. So this is still not a legal firearm, but it wouldn't exactly be a ghost gun, since the barrel and slide came from the factory.

ASA it is toxic. You won't have any problems using it for water applications?

this is what is exported, the rest of data is simply not present, wonder how export it all, I mean the whole list of parameters version = 4 name = backup exported TPU profile dec 8 2024 definition = flsun_v400 [metadata] type = quality_changes quality_type = normal intent_category = default setting_version = 22 [values] material_bed_temperature = 80 material_bed_temperature_layer_0 = 80

The brown material also appears to be matte finish vs the black is gloss. Glossy material will show all the imperfections a lot more.

I kind of have an old MacBook that is pretty slow and I’ve been told it will not work at all. If I buy 3-D printer, can somebody please tell me if it will cause I really want one?

This sounds like a video from 2009, nostalgic audio lol

I got a kingroon kp3s for $100 best purchase

All the best brother

Dammit I gained weight lol

Will try to run prusa pccf on my a1 this is encouraging. PC absorbs moisture really quick. The sutface finish reminds me of tpu that absorbed a lot of moisture. From what i remember with pc moisture absobtion to affect strength os on the order of hours not sure to what extent it would have to be for it to be visible.

Life saver! Cheers mate!

Just wanted to say that it’s great to finally find a no-nonsense review like this with insights that actually help you make an informed decision. Every other video is in that tacky, brain-rot format. You could play bingo with cards including things like: RGB lighting, bragging about setups/filament collection, awful jokes, saying “full disclosure” before talking about sponsorship, and so on. Thank you for being real.

Do all these comments about the mini, also apply to the full size A1?

The piece support the sun and UV 1 year later?

Happens to me all the time.

Automotive sound deadening material teducevvibrations and resonance. In your situation, the solid foil covered sude will reflect and amplify the sound, especially higher frequencies. The cone foam sheet works by breaking up and absorbing much of those frequencies. You might try self adhesive foam sheets for the interior sides. I plan to try short pile automotive carpeting. The same can be done to your output fan muffler internals. Put a baffle inside so the inlet and outlets are not pointed at each other.

Ive had nothing but trouble getting. .6 settings right. Nothing sticks

No information about temperature, fan settings etc. just glue and brim… waste of time

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qH2bloKOjMRsaNE

Updates on it? Ty

I charge 10-20x the filament usage at 1 cent. For example, I used 100g. I charge $10-20ish depending on complexity and post processing. Figured that would cover all my bases. Any thoughts on that?

For those of you who are printing small things with initial layers smaller than 0.5mm like I am, the following worked for me. Enable Advanced settings Quality > Initial Layer > set it to 0.42 (instead of 0.5) If you're going lower than 0.42, you'll also have to modify all the other values inside of the line width section.

Pretty useful video

Where’s that dragon stand from please? Anybody?

The Ultimaker S type extruders are really problematic if your filament is not very dry! From "chewing" to "filament flow errors", it's all completely going away if you have dry filament. All my extrusion problems were related to that. Sometimes even rolls you get from the factory are wet from tiny defects in the wrapping. So make sure to dry your filament before you use it. The same with print quality, layer lines, adhesion problems, warping and blobs come from wet filament. So what I did was to put the spools into sealed plastic containers, from there I have mounted a bowden tube that leads the filament right to the printer. Without the bowden tube I had horrible first print quality even after just one day of standing time

I got Rapid PETG Elegoo at 29mm3 12 rolls now no issues on my A1. Something wrong with batch?

The bolt at 3:39 so incredibly difficult for me to unscrew it. The screw is stripped this is frustrating that this is the last screw so I can replace my dead motors. It felt like I'm not allowed to 3d print anymore. I just worry it might damage them if I keep forcing until the details have been screwed off and I'm doomed to not be able to unscrew it. Do I need some lube to have a chance to unscrew it?

It's good that people are waking up.

To reduce the UV concern do a 2k spray coat.

when you center/auto arrange, it does not think about your supports at all? so weird.

The fact he does not reply to comments makes this video kinda timewaste

Nice point. Wondering are you interested in trying some different materails (3DP)? We're open to sponsor and hope to reach any potential KZbin collab together! (PCBWay zoey)

any updates on this? did it get effected by the weather? or heat

Yup I literally sold my P1S combos and bought A1’s saved so much money and got more printers

Nobody did shit as usual 2 yr later all talk

The AMS lite is better and less headaches than the AMS for the p1s/x1c. If I had the choice between a bed slinger and a core xy, I will choose core xy every time unless I need the build volume of a bed slinger. As prints get taller, more chance for a bed slinger print to fail.

@0:35 Uhhh, maybe I'm visiting from a close universe but cell phone technology has basically stagnated in societies eye- with exception to foldables (but they still haven't grabbed much market share)

I got the error when I broke a large assembly into parts in order to color it. Moving it to a new plate didn't help, but re-grouping the parts into a single assembly made the error message go away.

I am curious to the results of the enclosure design and wishing to talk about it more. I am thinking in this direction for a vehicular audio setup.

Can I ask What's the strongest filament I can use for the A1's ?

Well ill try this again. Ha. I was typi g a message when the video swithced. I belive the last one posted on a different video. Ha. Anyways. My question was what speed are you printing. The spool says to print at 30 to 50mms, which seems painfully slow. Also, are those parts at 100 percent infill?