I can only assume that you don't work it very hard if you make it last 200k? I did quite a lot of towing on bigger thank stock tyres.. and also live on a very steep hill. In saying that too, I 'said' that it needed a clutch. But it was actually still working fine. It just slipped occasionally on hillstarts when loaded 2t plus.

@ yeah mines at 200 and hasn’t slipped once, still got another 50 in it a rekon. I’m pretty careful on it, rev match most down shifts, sometime up shifts match rpm and don’t even use the clutch haha. Mines not done a heap of towing, just the odd boat trailer haha

@davidlee3203 interesting that you can determine that from a low quality in car video... but anyway... its a stock l67. What do you expect, Ferrari performance???

It will fit at full length if you want it to. I just chose to chop it as I have the sailplane and I didn't want it tucking under it so close. Also, didn't want it hanging so far back off the end as there is a lack of support in the roller shutter right at the tailgate.

To this day it's still in the back seat of my ute as a drinks fridge. Icy cold, works perfectly! Very happy

Thanks for watching. I have had very few issues with purchasing "cheaper" tyres. Actually only had one in about 20 years of driving. I had one set of chinese 4wd tyres that looked great and performend well, but had a lingering inbalance. I had literally tried everything to troubleshoot it, but it was the tyres out of round. Personally, I'll continue using the cheap option. Especially when some big name brands are about two times the price MORE per tyre!

It's coming, thanks for hanging in there! I'm just busy with work at this time of the year, and I don't want to make a bad video. I actually recorded one, but lost it from my phone. Not far off sorry!

Yes it is

@gtgarageaus any difference? Mainly towing? Ive done all thenupgrades minus this. Remap intercoolee hardpipes etc

I haven't measured the difference yet, as in on a dyno. But there is a difference in the way it drives. I have an OBD II scan gauge and I can observe all the numbers. It's certainly able to build boost quicker, and maintain boost better. how do I know? I have a few test roads 1. A short test road that I run, and there is a slight uphill section where i'd usually do 45km/h around a gentle bend, and it'll want to kick back a gear to get back into boost. After the mod it's now able to maintin the boost and the gear and power on through without having to kick back. 2. There is a main Highway that i drive to work. 100km/h constantly climbing for 10 mins. After the mod it is now often showing a high boost warning (I set it at 21psi) which tells me its building boost quickly- It would rarely do this before. I'm just cruising up the hill too 1800ish rpm I'll elaborate further in my next video, but thats the summary of it. Hopefully it helps.

@@gtgarageaus christmas purchase for myself. Cheers 🍻

You won't be disappointed. Cheers for watching!

I'm no expert, so this isn't gospel. But I have had experience of being defected many times, and i also used to work in a job where I had to get cars roadworthy inspected. Anything that puts a vehicle outside factory spec is technically a breach of ADR, unless the accessory is ADR approved for that vehicle. These are cheap towing mirrors that probably not ADR approved anyway (afaik). You'd be very unlucky to be defected for this

Hi thanks for watching. Yes. I've been meaning to follow up these videos sorry! I did record one, but i lost the video file, so i'll have to do it again! Coming soon!

Thanks for watching. I answered this in the 2nd video, maybe check that one out on my channel. I haven't used Falken before, so cannot comment. I test out all these budget brands in search of good alternatives to the big names.

@@gtgarageauscool mate, and how was it so far on wet roads?

Thanks for watching. They are 10PR. Road noise is slightly elevated over a HT tyre. I don't even notice the hum now, not intrusive at all. They do get a little noisy when they get feathered wear from not rotating. I rotate every 3000 kms now.

Hi. Thanks for watching. I assume you're referring to whether i drilled into the steel part of the tub? Yes you will have to. there is also locating studs that require holes drilled to help align the sides of the shutter. If you have any more questions, just ask. Thanks

​@gtgarageaus when you drilled the top 3 holes on each side did you have to use other nuts for the bolts or are they in there

Sorry for the late reply. Mine needed some new nutserts on the tops of the tub skins

I haven't had too many issues with Chinese tyres. I did have a set that were awful straight out of the box, they were a similar pattern to BFG K02. It was a shame as they were a very good looking tyre. I can't say that I have had any issues with any type of Sailun tyre. several sets on my cars, I even just had a set of road tyres fitted to my BMW X5 recently. I think you'll be happy

@robertboyd321 Thanks for watching. I do have a 3rd review video coming. I just have to redo a few parts. It's not far away. There's a simple answer to the writing being backwards 😂 I was using the front camera of my phone.

The Ford Ranger tailgate is already light as a feather due the built in spring assist (can't remember the proper name of it...). Just one of these struts is already very strong, and lowers the gate slowly. If there were two the gate would take 20-30 seconds to lower. Keep in mind this only assists in lowering the gate slowly... it does nothing to raise it.

yes, for sure. I will get around to an update vid at some stage. Subscribe and watch this space!

It's going well! i really should follow it up. it does everything that the big named brands do, and more, to be honest. i tow, 4wd and it does all that i need. The concept behind them is that they trick the ecu into thinking that the percentage of pedal input is higher/ heavier/ softer than it actually is. So, from my experience, i would say YES it would help reduce the lack of urge and responsiveness down low. There are so many settings to allow pretty precise pedal tuning to your liking. Do the 08's have a electronic throttle? I have no idea!? Thanks for watching

Yes and no... I think they could do with more side biters to give them a more aggressive look.

Hi. Ah yes.... I forgot that part. Yes they are M8. I just very sightly notched the bolt right near the base just to allow it to slide on the track. One may argue that the notch would weaken the bolt, BUT... I'm yet to have any problems, and I checked them religiously.

@@gtgarageaus oh awesome. I got m6 bolts, but they seem a little undersized

Hi. Thanks for watching, and good on you with building the trailer. It's certainly a rewarding project. I have a good mate who builds trailers for a living, and i bought the seal from him. However, i do know that (depending if you are in AUS) there is a company that i know who sells the stuff. It's called 'J Seal' and i know that Trailer Parts Direct sell it.

Hi, thanks for watching. It's not the roller lid itself that gets reinforced. It's the roller tracks on the sides. There are bolt in reinforcement kits already on the market at the moment. But i think they are a bit of a ripoff, plus I can make them myself for a fraction of the cost. So when i get a chance i'm just going to fabricate my own.

Hi, thanks for watching. Yes this kit was from Oz Canopies. Fts perfect and i'm very happy with it

Yes it's connected. I previously had a sports roll bar. So i just unplugged the loom and plugged in the replacement loom/ plug on the sailplane

@@gtgarageaus ok cool so I ve got a 2018 px3 xlt would there be a cable hidden or will I need too buy one

it'll have the plug/ loom tucked onto the side of the tub in the corner. Since most (if not all) PX 3 XLT's had tub roll bars from factory it should be a simple plug and play scenario

@@gtgarageaus thanks mate appreciate

Was you factory top break light in the way

Yes they do fit. I had a spare under the back on mine

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching. So far ive had the a/t and R/T and they both go really well. Really i only went the r/t as i needed a slightly more aggressive tread.

Hi, thanks for watching. I'll try my best to answer. The plastic part of the sailplane (capping) is bolted to the tub in several locations. That then bolts to the shutter, then the shutter edges have the groove that the rack bolts slide into. If that makes sense? I WOULD NOT rely on the factory mounting points to take the weight of anything too hefty on the rack though. The shutter definitely needs some fabricated supports underneath the in the tub to be able to take a lot of weight. These can be purchased pre made, but i'll just fabricate some myself.

@@gtgarageaus yeah, I have been told the same thing. I have however put 100kg or so on the tub rails when collecting firewood. That definitely exceeds the roller shutter weight rating from both Ford/Rhino Rack(25kg max) and Mountain Top (75 kg). I wish I could post a photo on here to better show the brackets I'm talking about. But they are the ones bolted to the underside on the roller shutter track and clearly visible when the roller shutter is open. There are 2 on each side that are about the same distance apart from a centreline taken vertically from the centre tie down point. I'm looking at brackets that bolt into the centre tie down point and then bolt onto the 2 brackets I mentioned, giving a 250KG weight limit on the roller shutter.

I just don't trust it at the moment on mine. Until i make the supports anyway. Its the dynamic load that im worried about. My rooftop tent is about 70kg, and that weight swaying around up high bothers me.

Hi thanks for watching! Oh they went perfectly fine on KI. Lot's of dirt roads where my family lives, but they went great. I didn't air them down at all as we go from pavement to dirt quite often. So they were at 40 psi, and they would skate on the marbly stones a little, but simply dropping the pressures a little would fix that. I did have the A/T previously (also rebranded as Rovelo Ridgetrack) and they too were great. A lot quieter due to the more condensed tread blocks. The bottom line for me is that there is more benefit to the bite of the R/T for the terrain that I often drive.

Hi. Thanks for watching, and also thanks for your insight into the MT's. I'm not a fan of tyre noise so there would be no way i'd run MT's for my (mostly) pavement driving. I have driven these in some muddy terrain in a family member's farm paddock and they go alright. They don't block up easily and hang in there and bite for quite a while. Worth trying out these RT's in my opinion

I'll do another video very soon mate. Started recording something just the other day, but ran out of time.

I do most of my weekly drive on pavement. I find them quite good. They certainly don't hum like a muddy, but there is a little more noise than a highway tyre. What they really need though is rotation very often. I was going to rotate them every 10k kms, but they probably really want rotating now at about 6k kms. I'll do another short review soon

Hi. Thanks for watching. I got the doors from Dunn and watson in QLD. They aren't fantastic- a bit flimsy, but they don't leak, they have opening windows, and they look neat. I could easily make doors myself, but i chose to buy instead. I think paying pull price is a HUGE rip off. Let me know if i can't help out any further. Good luck!

Yes, i stand corrected.... But they're not super effective being at basically toe level. I have a few 90's commodores that have large directable vents. That's what i'd consider as a proper "rear passenger vent". I have a baby daughter and on super hot days those tiny "vents' hardly did anything. Anyhow, they aren't a deal breaker.. I still loved the colorado

Glad it was helpful!

I just layered the front sheet over the roof sheet by about 30mm, used thick bead of UV stable adhesive/ sealant and banged in a row of wafer head self tapping screws which fix down into the framework

Thanks for that. I love doing it. One sheet covered the horizontal part of the roof. Then the angled "nose" is one piece with one bend in it. If you have any more questions just hit me up, i'm happy to help

Hi. Thanks for watching. I'm sure you can customise it however you'd like according to your draw bar. Theres lots of holes to allow it to be fitted to varying styles

@@gtgarageaus Thanks, I think U shape bracket would be better than the one supplied.

Probably, but this ones been on now for over a year and hasn't moved or been any trouble, so it does ok. My trailer isn't all too heavy anyway

@@gtgarageaus I park my trailer (4X7) on grass, not sure if this jockey will be easier to move it on grass?

Good question mate! The double wide wheel actually works really well to give more surface area to roll on loose surfaces. Where I park this van the surface is 20mm rubble. I can push the van around quite easily without it digging in

Hi, thanks for watching! Sorry for the slow reply, I've been away on holiday. Road noise? Well, I'll just say that I've had quite a few different A/T and R/T tyres. Some closer to mud tread that hummed quite a bit. I can't stand the humming! These hum very slightly on low speed braking but nothing intrusive. Highway speed they are fractionally louder than highway tyres. The sound doesn't bother me at all, I'm very happy. I'll do more reviews as the tyres age.

Thanks for watching. Yes it's certainly possible to shorten the height. In the video i have it set to the lowest height i believe. I eventually want mine to be shorter (lower) down also. From my observations you would just need to cut material off from the legs to allow the 90 deg (or 'shoulders' of the rack) to position down lower on the legs. Just about anything is possible with this from the looks of it, heaps of adjustibility.

Hi, thanks for watching. Do you mean the racks ability to carry load? I don't see it being an issue as once i cut the 130mm section out the remaining parts were fully welded back together. I'm 120kg and i can sit on top of the rack and rock it, without any issue. (The racks are rated at 100kg dynamic, 300kg static). There's actually a more critical point that lurks under the shutter which is much more important! If you're looking to put more than 100kg on the rack you need to make sure the shutter rails have adequate reinforcement. I occasionally put a Kings hardshell rtt on the rack (75kg) but only two thirds of that is bearing on the rack, the other 3rd rests on the roof bars. So the rack is not stressed at all IMO. I'll be doing another vid soon to follow up on my customisation as there has been quite a number of questions pop up about it.

Thanks. Easily accessible at bunnings, cheap and easy to use, and it works! If I had built the frame in bigger tube i'd probably use thicker foil board. But to be honest with you, this stuff works fine. The coldest we have camped in so far is just under 0 deg C. and in our big quilt we were very cosy. I also used another insulation product, Rhino Cell, that works well too

Yes i did. I got a bit carried away and finished everything off without recording, I just wanted to get it done!

@@gtgarageaus came up well. I have a dmax with a roller cover and will do the same. Cheers mate.

Thanks for watching. Yep really can't go wrong for the price and how seldom it will be used