Sorry - I just noticed the comments. I made this video to show Yale what was going on. They didn't provide any help so I tried my luck - I disassembled the lock unit itself (not hard at all - like a simple puzzle - just be sure to remember which direction everything goes back together) and found that the interface between the lock hole and the door cutouts weren't perpendicular so the lock had been torqueing against the side of the lock plate and bent the sheet metal that runs along the sides. I used a level surface to carefully bend them back to straight, then repositioned the lock plate in the doorframe so the lock wasn't pushing against it as it locked aaaaaaand FIXED! :) Hope this helps.

Sorry - I just noticed the comments. I made this video to show Yale what was going on. They didn't provide any help so I tried my luck - I disassembled the lock unit itself (not hard at all - like a simple puzzle - just be sure to remember which direction everything goes back together) and found that the interface between the lock hole and the door cutouts weren't perpendicular so the lock had been torqueing against the side of the lock plate and bent the sheet metal that runs along the sides. I used a level surface to carefully bend them back to straight, then repositioned the lock plate in the doorframe so the lock wasn't pushing against it as it locked aaaaaaand FIXED! :) Hope this helps.

Sorry - I just noticed the comments. I made this video to show Yale what was going on. They didn't provide any help so I tried my luck - I disassembled the lock unit itself (not hard at all - like a simple puzzle - just be sure to remember which direction everything goes back together) and found that the interface between the lock hole and the door cutouts weren't perpendicular so the lock had been torqueing against the side of the lock plate and bent the sheet metal that runs along the sides. I used a level surface to carefully bend them back to straight, then repositioned the lock plate in the doorframe so the lock wasn't pushing against it as it locked aaaaaaand FIXED! :) Hope this helps.

Always a challenge but certainly rewarding. This was our first time seeking Tarpon on a fly in Tampa. The first day we saw nothing that night we had four Giants on the line but lost each of them and landed a small male. The next day we had shots at multiple schools of Tarpon but just couldn't get one to eat.

Hey Bro - I just noticed some of the replies here. I actually think I've seen you out there before. Three of us were shooting out there last week and I think I remember seeing a grey Tacoma shooting a RPR suppressed at closer distances. We shot to 1500 with 6.5 Creedmoor AR10s (Proof Research, 2A Xanthos builds), then at 800, 500, and 300 using Primary Arms 1-8 ACSS and red dots on 12" 6.5 Grendel builds.

jugado219 Vortex Diamondback HP 4-16 - great inexpensive optic for precision 22lr

jugado219 I think they are fairly prevalent - 25 rounds

you can get it in every backery

Jason Wilson vortex diamondback hp 4-16 - I'd like to pick up a nicer scope for the rig - especially with exposed turrets, but ... in the end ... it's just a 22 :)

Touchier than the Razor Gen II for sure, but it weight almost a full pound less. It isn't bad if your cheek weld is adjusted correctly but it is a bit fickle at full magnification.

Troy Showtime ARC Mount with 30 moa cant. Vortex AMG has 21 Mils of usable elevation. Youre setup will be fine - especially with the hours reticle. No 1000 yard shot is easy - especially in the wind, and especially if your goal is first round hits.

ChrisP I'm using the standard 6.5 conversion from Desert Tech which is 26 inches. With fairly hot handloads I can barely make it to the target supersonic. The shots fired in this video were using factory Hornady 147 ELD Match ammo which was subsonic by the time it hit the target. In short, I would guess you'll lose about 60 fps with the 23" barrel but with the right bullet you should be able to make it to a mile regardless of going subsonic.

petey800 awesome. thank you mate

Shannon Nunn see my reply to Zack Smith below - standard geight.

Standard Height - 35mm(1.38") 30 MOA

Chase Johnson I use the Silencerco ASR mounts (either flash suppressor or muzzle brake) on all my rifles so I can QD both my Omega silencers from one to the other. I really like them.

Great point - I hadn't thought of that. On a separate note, we stretched to a mile yesterday with a newer ELR shooter and my new hand loads. Quite unbelievably, 3 2-shot groups shot at different times resulted in hits with a spread of between .6-3.2" each at one mile (zero wind). We will be filming the target and the shooter next time as that type of accuracy, if even remotely repeatable, is the stuff magic is made of. :)

@@petey800 Can i have your load data please?

I now use both 140 and 147 ELD Ms with either H4350 or RL16. I'm using loads very similar to those you can search over at snipershide.com

Try Cameraland in New York - great guys and they may be able to squeeze one out from Vortex for you. I considered the Gen 2 as well and have absolutely NO regrets (saving 20 ounces doesn't hurt either).

paul watson talk to Alan at A&A optics. Just got mine I waited 2 weeks

All the time! Was really annoying in bottomless poweder, but the 4-strokes don't seem to care as much when RPM's fall. 2-strokes are much more sensitive in that regard. That said, this axys may be my favorite sled of all time - light, long track, reliable, and responsive at 10 lbs of psi