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@f6dfzgeorges196 Күн бұрын
Hi, very nice job. Here is my monoband 80m version of this outstanding receiver : kzbin.info/www/bejne/l2GQaI2mjc12eJYsi=-RaWpJiAzDXvvU74 Best regards. Georges F6DFZ
@mghamsail Күн бұрын
@f6dfzgeorges196 Hi Georges j'ai vue votre video et votre superb resultat. j'aime bien le s meter, meilleur comme le noire s meter dans mon receiver, et ca marche meilleur aussi . je ne peut pas illuminer le sonar s meter. merci pour ton comments et 73s Carl K1LNL
@ВладимирМтасов 3 күн бұрын
73!
@bborkzilla 3 күн бұрын
I love the Heathkit-looking (I know, Sonar) meter!
@mghamsail 3 күн бұрын
@bborkzilla yes it looks like the one in the sb303, hard to get light through it
@bussi7859 3 күн бұрын
Too stupid to tune
@MIKROWAVE1 3 күн бұрын
This is a fantastic amount of work! I just finished a series on the SimpleX Super, a late 50s Novice Receiver project out of the Handbook.
@mghamsail 3 күн бұрын
@@MIKROWAVE1 work, fun and always learn something new
@frankywatte5646 3 күн бұрын
Now this is true radio amateurism, Building your own equipment. Congratulations my friend, great job.🤩😍😀
@frankywatte5646 3 күн бұрын
Now this is true radio amateurism, Building your own equipment. Congratulations my friend, great job.😍🤩😀
@frankywatte5646 3 күн бұрын
Now this is true radio amateurism, Building your own equipment. Congratulations my friend, great job.🤩😍😀
@mghamsail 3 күн бұрын
@@frankywatte5646 tnx 73s Carl
@Darryl_Frost 4 күн бұрын
That's one very nice receiver, always wanted to build my own gear one day, from about the same time as this project started, in the 70's and 80's. Ended up in a career in the Navy as a radio tech, so never got around to it.
@mghamsail 5 күн бұрын
Note there are 6 bands on the bandswitch but only 5 sets of filter boards and 5 crystal oscillators (. This is because the 80m band is direct conversion. The band filter boards for 30, 20, 15 and 10m include an rf amplifier stage. The optional rf amp was omitted from the 40m board and as noted by the designers Hayward and Lawson, was not necessary.
@mghamsail 5 күн бұрын
You may notice on the frequency display that the notation USB or LSB on right side is not correct. I think this is another possible bug in the DFD2.
@mghamsail 5 күн бұрын
The Inrad cw crystal filter kit has a different in/out impedance from what the IF board was expecting for the recommended filters. So the perf board that holds the Inrad filter and the switching relays also includes two toroidal transformers to match the impedance expected at the IF board. The IF board was modified slightly to pass the output from the on board ssb filter to the switching relays. Then the output from the relays for the selected filter, ssb or cw, was routed to the original input on the IF pcb.
@mghamsail 5 күн бұрын
The BFO box has the bfo board and another perf board stacked above it that hold 3 crystals switched from the front panel. Each crystal frequency is slightly adjustable with a mica variable capacitor, tuned for best usb and lsb audio, and one for adjusting the tone of cw signals. The CWz position bypasses the pitch capacitor so that 9Mhz crystal then displays the exact frequency of the incoming cw carrier. The AADE DFD2 frequency display has the updated TCXO option which was installed and calibrated by Neil Hecht the designer of the display. It was calibrated by Neil using a rubidium standard and even though installed years after, it is very accurate.
@mghamsail 5 күн бұрын
The digital VFO2 is tuned with a Grayhill optical encoder. I misspoke when I called it a tone encoder.
@mghamsail 7 күн бұрын
The AGC timing capacitor in the radio was changed from 10 ufd to 0.22 ufd. I misspoke when I said it was running with a 2.2 ufd. This recommendation from Wes greatly improved SSB reception and also the action of the S meter.
@dgadver 22 күн бұрын
Beeeeutiful!!!!!!!!!
@paulstovell1652 3 ай бұрын
I’m redoing the A and B pillar and inner sill on my MGA and this video was very helpful, thank you Carl!
@jameszarlengo8794 3 ай бұрын
Excellent video. Very descriptive and helpful - especially your discussion of how and why you selected the specific head bolts to lift the engine keeping it level and secure. Same thing with your decision process in using the 5/16" bolts and spacers to attach the block to your engine stand. From there you show a study wooden box to transport the block (instead of instructing us that an old tire in the bed of a truck is all you need). Home garage mechanics are typically very eager to show how fast they do things, instead of showing how well they are to be done. (They totally ignore important issues like not putting undue stress on small bolts - even just for a moment). Weight load and balance are essential. All of us who have done this for a while are tired of fixing the damage caused by speedy hacks using shortcuts. (First they ruin the car, then they sell it to some unsuspecting buyer who has to try to unscrew what they've done.) You have taken these factors into account, and I will follow them to the letter to ensure that I don't damage anything as I pull my engine. I'd like to know what length bolts you used on on engine stand. Again, I appreciate that you went into the detail of saying you used hardened bolts. In automotive work, I typically start with grade 8 and go higher in grade depending on the intended function. If only all KZbinrs would take the time to think things through as you have.....
@mghamsail 3 ай бұрын
@jameszarlengo8794 thanks for your comment. glad the videos are helping. the bolts were about 4 inch long
@mghamsail 11 ай бұрын
7 years in and 5200 miles still going strong
@johnnyfuglestad349 11 ай бұрын
kzbin.info/www/bejne/anyslZ6FjLuWfck
@edieken7 Жыл бұрын
instead of using buttweld clamps use magnets
@mghamsail Жыл бұрын
magnets are useful in many places but they don't attach to copper and don't hold as tight as the butt clamps which are going through the copper backup strip. the clamps also control the gap for butt welding
@stevefoster7603 Жыл бұрын
Thank you. I just bought an mga coupe &started removing the outer body panels. It was good to see all the bolt holes&to be shone it would be a lot easier to remove the splash plates right away.
@MaggiesMakeover72 Жыл бұрын
Beautiful car and a great piece or restoration work on your end. Your Maggie has a distant cousin in my 72 MGB (named Maggie) that has just begun its restoration. I am inspired by the outcome of your hard work. You can follow the journey on KZbin if you like at MaggiesMakeover.
@hansfischer7261 2 жыл бұрын
Großes Kompliment
@mghamsail 2 жыл бұрын
danke schoen Hans
@rocknrollrod5 2 жыл бұрын
I'm looking at a 60 MGA, and it has clutch problems. The guy told me it was burnt and frozen. The motor is painted nice like it was pulled, I have no idea why they didn't fix the clutch. Maby the disk is in backwards. My question is must I pull the motor to get at the clutch?
@rocknrollrod5 2 жыл бұрын
I'm looking at a 60 MGA, and it has clutch problems. The guy told me it was burnt and frozen. The motor is painted nice like it was pulled, I have no idea why they didn't fix the clutch. Maby the disk is in backwards. My question is must I pull the motor to get at the clutch?
@mghamsail 2 жыл бұрын
yes you will need to pull the engine to get at the clutch. you can separate the engine and gearbox bell housing in place and just pull the engine with clutch attached. but before you go that far, you can sometimes unstick a clutch disk by rocking the car while in gear. I don't think the clutch will bolt closed if the disk is in backwards but it could be stuck to the flywheel if unused for a long time, or the throwout bearing could be in pieces inside. checkout mgaguru.com for more info. you can also ask this question at mgexp.com and you'll get more advice than you'll ever need. good luck with it. Carl
@rocknrollrod5 2 жыл бұрын
@@mghamsail Thanks a lot man. I had a 59 in the 70s, a kind of rat rod, horsehair hanging out of the seats, but I loved that car. Now that I'm almost 70 I want another. I paid a $1000 bake then. I'm not looking for a show car, because I like to beat my cars.
@donerickson7305 2 жыл бұрын
There was an MGA owner who forgot to put oil in the engine after a restoration
@mghamsail 2 жыл бұрын
that would be a nightmare!
@robertoferrari5397 3 жыл бұрын
..how much did the paint job cost you?
@mghamsail 3 жыл бұрын
it was 8400. took 4 months, they charged 40/hour. they did filler work on the entire car which was stripped to bare metal by me, still holding up like new after 5 driving seasons and gets cudo's at shows, especially for the color we chose
@rc-bo4400 3 жыл бұрын
nice work ;) i will start with my top tomorror :D
@clivewinters7479 4 жыл бұрын
Wonderful
@clivewinters7479 4 жыл бұрын
I’m 71 now and had a 1600 Mk2 in 1970. Absolutely loved that car. I was 21 and a poor student, so permanently broke. Whilst studying I had part time jobs to keep the wolf from the door. Had to sell this lovely car after a few years, broke my heart, I was financially strapped. Always been a fan of this car, great memories. I’ve continued my love of British sports cars and currently I drive an F Type Jag. Maggie looks like a beautiful example....happy New Year, Clive, UK
@ivanyasaf7896 4 жыл бұрын
Woow nice
@walterdanielswalter.r.dani7628 4 жыл бұрын
My very first car was an MGA. I loved it!
@ramonperezascencio4252 4 жыл бұрын
L
@algernonwolfwhistle6351 4 жыл бұрын
That looks like a very nice restoration. Great work.
@beegee22 4 жыл бұрын
Gorgeous! What a feeling when it springs to life on the first pull of the starter!
@spencerbrawn 4 жыл бұрын
Nice work, thanks for sharing.
@guybo07 4 жыл бұрын
Beautiful
@SuperDiagnostic 4 жыл бұрын
Nice top... Shame about the hole at the top of the windshield to side screens, not sure I could live with that.
@mghamsail 4 жыл бұрын
Yeah it's not ideal, I think Robbins Convertible tops left that flap quite a bit shorter than the rest of the front. As noted in the video I couldn't stretch it much farther forward. Could possibly take it apart up front and try again with some big guys helping pull on it but I'm not confident it would be any better, vinyl tops probably stretch easier but I believe they get stiff in cold weather and don't stow as easily. There is a pretty good warranty on the top but it's too much trouble to take it all off and send it back. Like so many parts when restoring these cars, you frequently have to make them right if you can. A pro might do better.
@mghamsail 4 жыл бұрын
The first time I tried emptying the pan, there was nothing in it. This week in conjunction with a regular oil change, about 1 year since last time, I drained it and got several ounces of oil out. Oil that never landed on my garage floor.
@carlogic1960 5 жыл бұрын
Good job on that section. Nice to see all of that nice new metal. I am recording my resto at the moment as I have found those that others have done quite entertaining.
@robertpineiro3415 5 жыл бұрын
Great video I am new to welding and have 59 mga that I am restoring. Noticed you mention you had an Eastwood welder. What are your settings and wire size? I having issues with burning holes through the panels. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
@mghamsail 5 жыл бұрын
Hi Robert my welder is an Eastwood Mig 135, I wouldn't be surprised if it was made by Lincoln Electric, looks like their welders, did a lot with it over 5 years of welding. I used .025 solid wire with C25 argon/ CO2 gas. I tried lots of settings and in the end I mostly settled on the settings in the table supplied inside the welder, sometimes one setting less hot, so easy to burn holes through, so need to just do tacks spaced apart by an inch or so and short bursts. need to let the work cool off as you work and/ or reduce settings as you go. Also I got a tip from a youtube comment that when the weld looks too burned, it can mean gas settings pressure is too low. hope this helps, you can always do the work over until you're happy, better than paying for the labor. good luck and use all the safety gear.
@mghamsail 5 жыл бұрын
Another thing I found helpful as recommended by some more experienced welders is to back up your weld line whenever possible by clamping metal behind it, copper or SS or aluminum will resist welding and make good backup materials, but even steel backup is better than nothing.
@robertpineiro3415 5 жыл бұрын
@@mghamsail Thanks for the feedback. I will follow your recommendation. I am currently using .30 in the welder right now do have a .25 spool. Just want to confirm what gauge metal you are set at? thanks Rob
@mghamsail 5 жыл бұрын
@@robertpineiro3415 gauge depended on thickness of the repair panels if bought. parts I made were usually 20 gauge .036 and I would often start on the setting for next lower gauge, so 22 ga .030. I use a vernier caliper to measure it. but the original steel you are welding to may be thinner. I never had .030 wire so no experience with it, .025 came with the welder. fwiw, lots of experienced welders told me they all blow holes at beginning and even when more experienced too, but blo-thrus are a pain to fix, best to avoid them
@hartmutflemming2045 5 жыл бұрын
MGA Cabrio-Verdeckschrott ,primitive englische, vorsintflutliche Scheisse !
@mghamsail 6 жыл бұрын
Second driving season finished in November 2018 with 2000 miles on the roller release bearing, so far so good.
@andremarais2706 6 жыл бұрын
Camera swing made drunk. Could not watch.
@mghamsail 6 жыл бұрын
Well I did my job then, don't watch my handheld videos and then drive, LOL.
@thomasstorey3544 6 жыл бұрын
how did you do the underside of the bonnet and boot...many thanks...looks terrific
@mghamsail 6 жыл бұрын
I used rustoleum Regal Red on all of the internal red surfaces including the underside of the bonnet and boot. I found this was a close match to patches of original Chariot Red left underneath the car and under the heater. The rustoleum adhered to the aluminum just as well as to steel. I used rustoleum "paint over rust" primer, even on the aluminum, followed by topcoat of the red. I used both paint in cans as well as spray cans for final coats. For paint prep I generally scraped loose material off, then sanded sometimes by hand and often using a flap disk sanding disk, being careful not to take off too much of the steel or aluminum. Then on steel I used POR15 metal ready which is a mild acid prep. Before painting I used Eastwood PRE pre-painting solvent to clean sufaces to be painted. All of these paints are holding up well after 2 years of driving now. Of course the outer body paint was done by the body shop using professsional base coat/clear coat water based paints.
@vpndg1190 6 жыл бұрын
Nice work. I am installing the same part. Where did you get the radius for the flange you welded to the skirt panel? Thanks
@mghamsail 6 жыл бұрын
I had replaced my radiator duct panel and before I did I traced the radius on a table and then matched the skirt panel to the tracing. Sorry but the tracing on my table is now covered in overspray so I can't advise what my radius was. I think you will find a diagram of the radiator duct panel on mgaguru.com but it is best to match your own car's panel by making a cardboard panel if you can get at it. Good luck.
@vpndg1190 6 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the reply, I think cardboard is the way to go. They do have a beautiful diagram on mgaguru.com, just not enough info to determine the radius.
@hw80boy 6 жыл бұрын
Nice one 👌
@avdodger 6 жыл бұрын
It looks like your parts are painted before welding. Yes? No? If painted - what with? Do you sand/grind the paint off in the areas you're going to weld?
@mghamsail 6 жыл бұрын
Trying to weld painted areas is a futile task, it's always necessary to get a clean paint free area when welding, especially including where you clamp the ground wire. Then you can apply self etching "weld-thru" primer and weld through it successfully, leaving better protection around and underneath the welded parts. I'm sure some of it burns off and creates more fumes so you need to wear a good mask when welding, but I think it is better protected against corrosion. I have used weld through primer from Eastwood and also Sem weld through primer (Amazon) which comes in a little can with an applicator brush attached to the can top. These primers dry in 15 minutes so you can apply just before welding.
@avdodger 6 жыл бұрын
Is that rustoleum spray can, or paint can?
@mghamsail 6 жыл бұрын
I have used both. Spray can is faster and easier to paint odd shapes and get into hidden areas. Convenient to hang parts from a tree with a wire and spray. Downside is overspray and drips.
@mghamsail 7 жыл бұрын
First driving season finished with 932 miles on the rebuild. The clutch with roller release bearing has been operating very smoothly.