Thank you for pointing out the broken link. It's fixed now. To reinstall the stove just align the left and right tracks then slide the stove inward until it locks fully in. Do not use the locking levers during re-installation. Yes, the CO detector issue was a shock to me too. We used our detector last week in 27F weather. It's a big help while heating our Bean with a healthy level of ventilation. We're using the little shelf/heaters a lot this time of year:)

Thanks for the tip on reinstalling the stove. I got it to go back in fine with your help. I will order the stove item when you get back. Thanks again

Yes, we expect to reopen on Nov. 13th. All items will be in stock at that time.

I tried mounting our Viper a few different ways while doing bump and shake testing (zip ties, foam tape...) Our Viper will only trigger if "zolted", the door is yanked, or if someone climbs on the rock sliders/fenders. The self-leveling tilt sensor is very reliable. Yes, if you want to use high amp output for horns... add a 12v relay module capable of meeting the need (10A). You can find them on Amzon for less than $10. Modules are labeled for connecting the +/- and switch wires (NO = Normally Open).

We had about 25,000 on the trailer at the time of this video. A good portion of the miles were on dirt and low maintenance roads. I noticed some uneven wear in our tires... That's covered in this video or one just prior. Think the Timbren system is good but lubing 6,000 miles is better for dirt and tougher conditions. Our trailer typically weighs about 3,500 lbs.

If you are looking to run Starlink off a 12V plug you can add a 110V inverter to the 12V plug then plug Starlink into the inverter. This 600W inverter is a good size for running Starlink and small 110V appliances, a laptop... This inverter comes with a 12V plug and a clamp option for connecting it directly to a car or trailer battery. Our 600W power station runs our Starlink system just fine, newer generations of Starlink have even lower power demands. amzn.to/4dhdu33

That's awesome. What a night! Hank has talent coming out of his ears. Plus, he's a heck of a nice guy. He should be on the next Harmonica Blowout tour, along with his chromatic and lap steel...

Thank you, we are loving this upgrade:)

Not yet. I believe 23Zero uses stouter telescopic poles than ARB. The outer diameter of 23Zero's outer pole half is 25mm (22.8 inside diameter). The outer diameter of 23Zero's inner pole half is 22mm (19.8 inside diameter). I can easily design for specific diameters but the measurements are critical.

Yikes! You were very fortunate that there wasn't more damage. I understand your concern. Adding a set screw or rivet certainly can't hurt. After doing some stress and heat tests I have faith in this industrail CA. I was only able to release the bond at about 250F using a heatgun. It's rated for -40F to 230F. Thank you for the comment, and support.

Thanks:) Great trailer!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank for the comment. Stainless steel and some bass alloys can be pretty stubborn. I highly recommend starting this type of work on a cheap or broken harmonica. Reeds do have a lot of spring and memory. The right tools makes it easier to contol the pressure needed to overcome this. It does take some experience. It may help to make a pencil mark at the point where the tool is slid up to. Then repeat this a little further up and make another mark... Don't be afraid to over gap and under gap the reed using more pressure. That's why a cheap or broken harmonica is the victim:)

@@dchurch911I tried for 4 5 times now its getting better and now it responds better to my air blowing. Thank you for guide. It helped me a lot. I was trying to fix my melodicas note gaps. Some notes needed more air to sound which cause also delays. Now managed to reduce to gap so it sounds quicker and need less air.

I would call a few local mechanics or tire centers. If you are out west, any Les Schwab can do this type of work while you wait.

I've been preoccupied with a wedding and recent eye surgery. All is well and I'm happy to see that you found a type C that works for this. For others that may be looking here's a link: amzn.to/3X945pT

I did this solo except for peeling the logs, which took three of us a couple of hours. Spring bark peels easy:) I spent one evening drawing plans. One day selecting, falling and skidding trees to the site and peeling bark. One day leveling the site and setting stakes and lines, mixing and pouring the concrete. There was some down times while concrete cured and the logs dried a little. Then two days cutting, setting and fastening posts & poles (with my front-end loader). Next day, installing perlins/rafters. Another day installing the metal roofing. Two days making the sign:)

Thanks so much for adding this tip! I hope you and I never have to use it, but it could be a great help for other poor unfortunate souls:(

I have it shown as a 1-1/2". You could double check with Timbren Inc., there support is very responsive. A 38mm would be a hair larger. I wonder if your socket is worn. A good six point socket should be used for this job. You do want a nice fit because there's a lot of torque required. Best of luck with this.

I just decided to drill a new hole so I wouldn't have to align the old hole, which looked like it might be tricky. I think that option may (or not) make sense when you get there. Best of luck with the project. Sorry to hear about the problem, but it's nice to know this video could be helpful. Thanks for the comment, keep us posted!

@@dchurch911 Thanks for your quick reply. I thought that may have been the case with the washer pin alignment. Timbren has been great, I'll receive parts for the job today. I liked your use of the wood splitter for a press. I don't have ready access to a hydraulic splitter so will probably try the good old washer/bolt pull method. I've done that pressing method with motorcycle parts and car suspension bushes before and with good success. We'll see. :-) My Black Bean was one of the first Black Beans off the production line. I'm thinking that Bean underestimated the dry weight on the Black Bean (with options) and they should have used the 5200 rubber springs instead of the 3500. That's what Timbren thought too and they are sending me a 5200 spring set. They also recommended that I double check the 450 ft/lb torque on the main hinge bolt.....after 500 or so miles and again at 5000 miles. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again....

There's something exciting about riding into sketchy weather:)

The Crossover is a fine example of a very nice harmonica that is well worth repairing. Thanks for the positive comment.

Yes it's really sad. Nothing is 100% but insurance and security measures do help alleviate a lot of concerns. Last fall this alarm went off in the middle of the night while parked in front of a guest house. Someone had to lift the tongue for that to happen. The tilt sensor is awesome.

Appreciate it often thought about adding a car alarm, this is perfect. Lover your web sight as well, will be back to look around more. Thanks.@@dchurch911

We've never had problems with false alarms. The shock sensor can be adjusted to require a serious jolt, like yanking on the door or jumping on the fender. The tilt sensor is independent. It sets itself to level no matter how the trailer is parked. If the tongue is raised or lowered the alarm goes off.

That's great! I don't often write reviews for Amazon. In this case I hoped it would be especially helpful. It's been awhile so i've had a chance to color a few other led fixtures:)

@@dchurch911 I made sure to clear my cart and add via your affiliate link. I very much appreciate you taking the time to share your experience.

Thank for for that, and for taking the time to comment.

Hi Jurie, Keep in mind this is tough without seeing what you have. And, I apologize for not knowing your level of experience. One way to test a reed is to blow into the hole from a distance of one or two inches. This helps prevent excessive pressure from freezing the reed(s). Beginners often have difficulty playing the high and low reeds on some harmonicas. An “A” harp is generally easy to play. The “G” harp is the hardest to play on the low end. An “F” harp is the hardest to play on the high end. It helps to play softly using normal breathing (don’t blow). It may also help to play difficult reeds by allowing some of your air to escape through your nose. Otherwise, You may have to dismantle the harp. Gently “plink” the problem reeds. They should make a clear tone and not buzz or make a dull plunk sound. If they do the reed(s) is probably not centered in the slot. They need to be centered using a reed wrench. Set the reed plate on a white screen (laptop or phone) and you should see an equal thin light along each side and the tip of the reed(s). Next, just look at the problem reed ends. They tip ends should all be slightly above the reed plate surface (not below or down into the slot). The tip gap height should be roughly the thickness of a sheet of paper for the high notes and a couple of sheets thick for the low notes. That may not be perfect but they will be “playable” at this point. If a reed is centered and still won’t ping clearly (or it sounds flat) it may be cracked. A crack will normally be near the rivet end. A cracked reed can’t be fixed, only replaced. The common goal is to have all of the reeds to play equally well with very little effort but not freeze while playing aggressively. That normally takes some adjustment of a number of reed gaps. It’s generally better for beginners to have slightly over sized reed gaps than undersized. A much less common problem is a twisted reed or a poorly set reed rivet, especially rare with quality makers. That problem can be corrected by removing the reed and resetting it, or using a light tap with a tiny hammer. Best of luck, Dave

Thank you very much Dave I really appreciate your response.

Excellent question! I wondered the same thing at some point. Or, how do you not ruin the iron while using steel forms? The answer is that it takes a very sharp and well adjusted plane. It also takes some degree of skill and a light even/level touch. One trick that I use is to slide the bamboo stick forward a bit while rough planning. This elevates the stick slightly above the slot. Still, at some point the stick needs to be lowered to where it belongs. Another tool for very fine shaving is a cabinet scraper. If the scraper accidently contacts the form the damage is nearly measurable. You have to be very careful at the fine tip ends. It's crazy but the triangular cross section of each of the six pieces are often no bigger that this " v "