No motor yet! That project sounds pretty cool though. I’ve moved since shooting this video, and the new place doesn’t have a great spot for a screen :( try automating your screen to roll down when you, for example, turn on your audio receiver or computer or other device 👌 good luck!

Glad it helped! :) It’s a shame they don’t come with clear instructions on maintenance. I think I got a good price on my screen but felt the tension problem cropped up way too soon.

Agreed. I eventually got one myself haha! It helped me wire up some security cameras 👍

Underrated comment.

Oh man, I hope not! Do you have more you can run to try again?

If I recall correctly (it’s been several years heh), the plastic end caps did not instill a lot of confidence for torquing up the spring. There is a rectangular receptacle molded into the plastic end cap, which distorted the first time I tried to hand crank it. You may find others built stronger though, in which case, you should definitely try out that simpler method out.

You’re welcome! Check out some of the other comments too. I think some folks found another way to do this, depending on your screen’s construction! 👍

Yeah, I didn’t explain myself well there-I meant that there would be fewer devices broadcasting a signal in your home. One less TV or Roku having to share a channel of your WiFi should mean better connectivity. I doubt most families will need to even worry about that becoming a real issue though. The best benefits are just consistency and speed for wired devices 👍

They don’t unless they make one like I did :/ to be fair, it was a short length of angled aluminum cut with a cheap coping saw

Thank you! I am doing well and I hope the video helped :)

@@StoneFlange sure did thank you very much!

Well the other day. They don’t show dates on here 😅

Heh glad it was helpful :)

Hi there, I haven't made a video on it, but your question about the drywall texture is a good one! In my part of California, it is common to see the "knock down" texture on walls and ceilings in many homes. To do this, I applied a little extra drywall/joint compound in lumps and then used a straight edge to flatten most of it out. The imperfect flattening in this maneuver is what makes it desirable: it is a little unpredictable but mostly mild if done correctly.

@@StoneFlange ok great! Thank you for the great video n the response to my question. Take care.

Hey Major, I mostly used fishing tape (non affiliate link, and maybe the one I used for this job): www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56335-25-Foot-Markings/dp/B089DT2NKR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3DCOGMHKZA7I9&keywords=fishing+tape&qid=1641507414&sprefix=fishing+tape%2Caps%2C231&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyQlVYUUgxMDlYVkhWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjg3MTU3R09OVFc1MUZCTjVOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNzgxNzUyN1VKV01UVlBNNVJNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== I like to tie a string to the tip, push it to the location I want to go and then untie the string from the tape. I reel in the fishing tape and then tie the string to my ethernet cable. Finally, I pull the string back out with the cable attached to it. The reason for this extra step will be apparent when you try :) the lower profile of string can be helpful when navigating behind walls and obstructions!

I'm glad I could help :)

Glad I could help! :)

So much easier when your pants have no ghosts

Or mold

I've heard of that but I've never tried it myself

you wont reach 1Gbs with that

Haha thanks! He has always been solving humanity's problems, big and small!

Good idea Im going to try it

I fully disassembled my screen; the locking mechanism is completely different to the one seen on this video. Here you can see a metal locking mechanism at the extreme and outside the screen cilinder. On my screen there's a freely rotating plastic part with five blades attached to a plastic core, the plastic core goes inside the screen spring -about 1meter long-. This plastic core is cut in half at the tip, which goes approx. at the center of the screen housing. The plastic part with 5 blades rotates freely at the tip where this plastic core is cut in half, the tension on the spring determines the expansion of the plastic core that's cut in half, and this allows the rotating part to be firm and lock the screen, or to be loose and let the screen roll up. What happened is, 3 of the 5 blades were broken, and the surviving two are worn out. It's a really bad idea by the manufacturer to put a regular plastic piece for that function, it should be metal or some high performance PA. To be able to lock the screen again, it's necessary to replace that plastic part with 5 blades. So I left the part "as is", tensioned the spring lightly and reassembled the screen.The screen can be rolled down manually and kept in place with a hook with weights, hooked to the screen handle when needed. Because of the spring tension is light, the tension on the screen (by the spring and the hook with weights in opposite directions) is light enough so as to not to damage the screen. When I finish using the screen, I unhook the weights and the screen will gently roll up. For reference, my screen is a Loch MWS 130. Not only the blocking mechanism is made of plastic, also the extremes of the screen cilinder that act as axle tips are plastic parts, not metal parts as on the screen seen on this video.

Hmm I just checked my Amazon history because I thought I had purchased it there. I have a pretty simple one; maybe it's from Lowe's or RadioShack? I have something like this (www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Stripping-Cutter-8-Inch-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_4?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Wire+Strippers&qid=1607138819&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-4&ts_id=553398), but I would recommend one that has a biting action to sever and pull the insulation for you like this (www.amazon.com/Stripper-Dromild-Automatic-Stripping-Self-adjusting/dp/B081821YSV/ref=sr_1_11?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Wire+Strippers&qid=1607138819&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-11&ts_id=553398) or this one (www.amazon.com/Kinee-Adjustable-0-2mm-3-3mm-electrical-automotive/dp/B01JO6UB7W/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Wire+Strippers&qid=1607138819&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-3-spons&ts_id=553398&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTERZSUJIVjJGQUVOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTA2MzY5NkEwNzJOM1c1WDlGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1ODM2MzcyWjUyREhTR09TRlpDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==).

If I was able to convince my parents you can convince your wife LOL

Wife is more harder to convince. Running cable not sure why they are so against it if the walls will be fixed

He didn't cut out any footage of drilling through joists because he didn't have to do that. For the wall drop on the ground floor, it was an exterior wall, which usually lines up with the wall on the top floor, making it possible to run cables inside the wall as long as that wall is one the gable side. All he needed to do was drill a hole in the attic and cut an access hole in the top floor to drill through through the bottom plate.

But it's still wifi... is a shared medium, can't do gigabit and up, or do vlans ....

Pardon?

I have to say that I didn't find it terribly useful... Precision after initial assembly was good, but if you are off by hours after half a day, then it's likely you need to take some weight (nails for me haha!) out of the pendulum instead of mess with the screw.

Would you mind explaining your method better?