Thank you for the info. I will check out the Baxter.

I've been a performance engine builder for a living for a long long time and you know what I tell people about those tools you can buy that cut open filters so you can look inside of them? DON'T BUY THEM!!! Because all they'll do is cause people to lay awake in their beds at night starting at the ceiling all worried about what they saw in them. First off is how do you know the limit of what's acceptable and what isn't? And even if you do what are you gonna do about it? Tear and engine apart that you don't want to tear apart in the first place? Even if you do learn what's acceptable and then one time there's more than should be what are you gonna do about it anyway? You're gonna run it till it quits anyways so don't worry about it, and honestly, if there is enough that you can see a difference you'll already have bearings knocking, if you don't they probably will be before you can even get it to a shop if there's that much showing inside a filter. Those things are only any good for places that do R&D, in the first place they're really the only people who know what they're looking at and even then it's still the readings from an oil sample is what they base things on. These modern engines with their big timing chains and their tensioners spit out more stuff that winds up in filters that nothing to worry about but has probably caused more heart attacks than gas prices, even little chunks of plastic from the timing chain guide pads and tensioner pads show up in there and people freak out over it, but it's normal, and the timing chains themselves, take the cover off the primary drive of a motorcycle that has a chain primary drive and look all around inside, those are the same chains just shorter and you wouldn't believe the metal that's all over the inside of a primary housing on a bike, and despite what you'll see they typically last the life of the bike, from slivers big enough that you'll get them in your fingers and drive you crazy because it makes them feel like pin cushions to metal so small it makes a gray paste in the bottom of the housing, and engine timing chains usually involve several with them typically being longer than a motorcycle primary chain, along with 2 to 3 times the number of sprockets so yea, those puppies are kicking out all kinds of metal you'll find in your filter but in all reality is perfectly normal for chains like that, and without analyzing the metal particles in a lab you won't know how much of it is from timing chains and how much is from your bearings, that's what you have to worry about, and without being able to tell the difference you'll just worry yourself over nothing. Word of advice, filling oil filters when changing your oil is no myth, starting up an engine with a dry filter shortens engine life, and every time you shut down one of those 3.6 engine's all the oil drains out of the filter, it's a bad design and Chrysler is coming under fire for it, engine's that should go 500,000 mi are going 400,000 and less, a company called Baxter makes a conversion kit that takes a conventional spin on filter and has an anti bleed down check valve in it, the only hitch is the filter is upside-down (compared to how filters typically go on) making it hard to pre fill, so what you do, and you should do it every time you change your filter even if you don't convert it, is crank your engine without it starting until the low oil pressure warning light goes out, the way you can do it on these modern vehicles is by utilizing the "clear flood" feature, to enable it turn on your ignition FIRST (unlike how you normally just press the start button from off, to do that push the start button WITHOUT your foot on the brake, usually the first time you push it it'll be in "accessory", like the old cars when you'd turn the key backwards, then press it again and that's ignition on), then FULLY depress the gas pedal, push the brake then push the start button and it should crank without starting, check to see if your vehicle has a clear flood feature and make sure it's enabled that way (everyone I know of does). Clear flood is in case for some reason the engine gets flooded, it shuts down the injectors so you can crank on it without having more fuel squirting into the cylinders, most manufacturers that are making engine's these days with cartridge oil filters are training their dealer tech's to prime the filters that way before starting them.

Relubricate* Republication was autocorrect.

Does very well in cold temps Marc. I had an officer out east who was worried and asked the same questions and I ran it by our engineer Mark, who you saw in this video who I know for his response. Here's what he said. Good morning Dave. We did our evaluations down to -40F. Probably colder than many officers would like to be outside. With that we compared ourselves to many different brands. As perhaps your officer friends can attest, there are some huge differences in firearm lubricant products in the marketplace. Our product will provide lubrication and allow to cycle at those cold temps. However the caveat is how often an officer cleans the service weapon. The more powder residue built up, the more opportunity it will have to fail cycling. Doesn't matter what lube you use. That is unless you use a CLP that has very little lubrication at all. Which i could say about our FCP. Great cleaner and corrosion protectant. Also offers a mild lubricant. And would never fail while cycling in any temperature. But also doesn't provide the necessary lubrication required for the firearm. Check it out here Marc: Let me know if you have more questions. davidnaus.myamsoil.com/

@@davenaus3469 Please post your results. I use amsoil for lubricating my rifle. But I use their 0w40 snowmobile oil (with added anti rust agents). Not their gun oil. The gun oil freezes up on me before the 0w40 even starts to get the gunny cold feeling. The gun oil works well in normal shooting environments. It performs worse than 0w40 at Temps below freezing. Where were you stationed that you had access to -40? Fort Drum hasn't been anywhere near that cold... and you said out east, not Alaska. I'm calling BS.

@@marcush4741 Thanks for your response. I don't use our gun oil because I don't have one but I do use our Saber 2 stroke oil and our Signature Series in my car. The gent who was asking me about it is a police officer out east and he was concerned about how well it would do in temps that can get to 40 below at times out his way. I'm not going to disagree with and start a head battle with anybody that's telling me what they do and what they experience in the weather where they live so I got with Mark in this video to get some info to answers his question and, I did. Thank you Mark! That simple. If you look at all of the testimonials here you are going to see a mix of positive things and negative things by different people, It's ways the way it is whenever any products are being sold. Those of us that have had good experiences with Amsoil will go on having them and those who have already made up their minds otherwise, it's a free world to believe what they want. We're not here to get into major disagreements with folks. We are busy people helping those who do want to try and use our products and those who already are. If you think this is all BS, that's your right to feel that way. Best regards to you and good luck with whatever products you chose to use in life. We all have that choice. Respectfully, Dave.

Same here. Been scouring the interwebs for the last 2 weeks and all i can find is changing the oil pump solenoid. I'm hesitant because it was functioning properly before I changed the housing. If you find an answer tag me.

@@chrisw46360 i just talked to a buddy of mine and he said that the ecm needs re-programming

I have read several great reviews on Valvoline CVT. I used the standard trans fluid in my van for 150K with no problems. It is also reasonably priced at $11 a quart.

That would greatly restrict oil flow to vital engine parts and cause engine damage.

@@HiTechOilCo then have more pleats of fabric filtering the oil you fool

@@HiTechOilCo so adding more pleats and filter surface area allows same oil flow. What are you like 85 IQ?