You left your climber on just a friction hitch for like 45 seconds. No thanks.

Wow 😅 this video is no good instruction! This has to be taken from you tube for safety reasons! 1: did you just took of your backpack full of equipment? And threw it above you??? You will never be able to reach it anymore in case the anchor fails… when you are more pulled away from it… 2: untying yourself from the rope is simply NEVER DONE!!! If the anchor does not hold, bye bye partner… 3: the snow looks very loose… the snowpicks will never hold… even for a demonstration, it should be build to hold!

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mX25o3xnjL99Y5Y

Why do we use the alpine butterfly for core shots? They can slip, right?

Poco interessante come simulazione buona giornata

troppo lento

Alternatively you can use HMS carabiner with munter hitch and pass the knot in seconds.

Seems like an old technique for 2023. Couldn’t you just load them directly right onto a microtraxion on the master point? You can back that up with a knot while you check on the climber. If they need to be hauled the microtrax is already in place so you just need to add a prussik on the weighted line and then 2:1 is ready to go.

I'm grateful for the video, as it made me think. There's a lot of ways to do this. you basically need to get your partner's weight off of you and onto an anchor, and then set up a hauling system. Pre-sling a prussik (which the presenter did) below your tie in point because if it's a really extreme situation you might not have the luxury of deciding your masterpoint position with multiple bomber stake placements and you may have to go off less gear than you would like. If you're unprepared you may have to do it off of your axe. A very bad situation to be in regardless. I've been partway down a crevasse. Be safe.

A lot of mumbo jumbo with gear but the person who has fallen into the crevasse is still in the crevasse and will most likely freeze there. Also, it is much more likely that the lead person on the rope would fall into a crevasse. The self arrest doesn't work very well if you are pulled forward onto your belly and are being pulled face first toward a crevasse.

Time to remove this outdated video.

La técnica y la idea pueden ser muy buenas, pero el cámara ha escogido unos ángulos que no permiten ver la ejecución en su totalidad. Saludos desde España

My friend did this a much easier way. We had just climbed the nose in 2 days. Our first big wall. Freed up to 5.11, French free to 5.12. Then full aid after that. Slept on on a ledge at camp 4, the actual rock , no portaledge, space bags to sleep in, we went light. Now the relevant part. We rapped fixed single lines down the east ledge descent. I went first and had all the climbing gear. My friend Jared had our small haul bag. His ATC was in the bottom of the bag and I had my spare rappel figure 8, so I gave that to him for the rappel. Within 200’ of the bottom, I noticed the rope had a knot joining another 60 meter rope to the ground. I also noticed chains to my left with another fixed 60 meter rope to the ground. Seemed easier, so I swung over switched ropes at a ledge, then rappelled to the ground. Jared didn’t see me do this, and didn’t notice the knot until he was on it. By good luck and some bouncing the knot went throw the large eye of the figure eight rappel device. Badda-Bing Badda-Bang passed the knot in seconds.

Looks like you're in an old church or something...

To add, you put the chest harness on in this case to prevent yourself from falling backwards. If you were to fall backwards the prusik on the leg loop move closer to the ATC and would likely jam causing you to fall. Like others have said use an rappel extension.

in GriGri we trust

Excellent demonstration 👌

The problem? The first problem is that it is virtually guaranteed that with a two person rope team the person trying to arrest the fall will be dragged into the crevasse as well. This is a proven fact. It is actually safer not to rope up on a glacier if you are only two people. The second problem is that it is virtually impossible for one person to haul another out of a crevasse by themselves if the person who has fallen is incapable of helping.

I notice that there are no overhand or alpine butterfly knots tied on the rope leading to the fallen climber (i.e. between the members of the team, to provide more friction on the snow in the event of falling into a slot). If those knots were there, would this system still work (could they be untied under load to allow the rope to pass through the pulley at the anchor-end of the system?).

"Muntner" hitch - that's a good one.

Or get an F8 and shove the knot through the hole...

poor Pat should give up climbing.

Great video, no faf either, just gets right to it.

Haha got a good laugh out of 1:28

Good video! Thanks for putting the knowledge out there. My errata would be to always use a rappel extension, and this video nearly demonstrated why. With the autoblock on your leg loop and the rappel device on your belay loop, we saw how close the friction hitch got to running into the rappel device where it could release. Using a rappel extension with the backup on the belay loop can avoid that scenario.

There is nothing more dangerous than a man at the end of his rope.

this is something like three layers of unnecessary complication (i.e. 3x chances of failure, confusion, gear being tied up and unavailable, etc). A simple question: your guy falls, needs assistance. How are you going to get out of that clove hitch with the rope under tension? I'm not being mean or w/e, I just think this whole system of thinking is not optimal.

is this static or dynamic rope?

First the climbers name was Jim and then all the sudden his name is Pat, I don’t think there was ever a Jim or Pat, waayyy too quiet for anyone to be there but him🤦🏼‍♂️🤓

.... close the system?

Good info, but I can’t help but feel like you gonna open up with “have you heard the Good News?”

Should probably have a 3rd hand on the brake strand before lowering...

nice helmet and good movie

Why didn't the KZbin algorithm get me here sooner? Provided you're familiar with basic climbing systems, that's as concise and approachable I've ever seen a top rope transition to rappel be demonstrated. Well done sir.

She went plopz---p-l-o-p-z-z-z😆☕🥁

Caution when putting an autoblock on a leg loop. Not only is a leg loop not rated for holding any force, if you get flipped around, the autoblock could get sucked into the ATC which 'could' allow the rope to slide freely through the ATC. I like rigging a rappel such that there is no way for the backup friction hitch to get close to the rappel gear - this can be attained by extending your ATC with a short sling which also allows your auto block to get hooked to your belay loop which is strong.

All the videos show great knowledge about mid way up and top down will you plz show bottom to top climb and how it's done thanks bro

A little late for me to comment but excellent video. One suggestion would be to clip your autoblock to the inside of your leg loop and not to the side with buckle as the carabiner can cause the buckle to become undone.

Bare hands in snow for an emergency situation is asking for troubles.

:-), :-)

Very nice and simple, not trying to show off complexities, just keeping it nice and simple. Good one

Re 3:25 Not that I don't enjoy chewing rope, but I recommend holding the prusik like a lighter, thumb on the bar(trigger), to release and re-position it. (For convenience, I hope he knew to make it a RH prusik.) Re 5:05 Isn't that device a prusik minding device, so you do not need to keep pushing it down?

How long is the rope you are using?

Yeah, I think this is more confusing than helpful unfortunately. There are ways to simplify all of that, and still be secure. Also I agree with previous comments, you'd defiantly want your pack tethered to you at least. If the anchor fails and you have to self arrest again your pack could be above your reach. I understand that in the moment a lot of things can happen, so you've got to be 110% before you ever try this style of climbing. Once that adrenalin starts pumping it's easy to make mistakes, so keeping it Barney simple can save your life.

*_My favorite belay device next to any of the grigris.>>>_**_allmy.tips/ClimbBelay?lL♛ _**_ Very well made and fine quality belay device!_*

*_This belay device worked very well>>>_**_allmy.tips/ClimbBelay?ffσ_**_ Is is so easy to use, the friction is good for a a beginner to belay a large size climber. I cannot wait to train my boy top rope climbing this weekend._*

Let me guess... You never searched for this?

You should tie knots at the ends of each rope before rappelling instead of just mentioning it at the last!

backing up on the leg loop..?!

2:57, MUNter, not MUTner; (couldn't find 'mutner' when I looked it up)