How do you connect to the camera?

can you show how to actually remove the cold shoe? i dont get it off. i try to unscrew it with the allen key, but at some point it just turns everything and nothing comes off. i must be completely stupid, but i do not understand how to remove it ...

I just sent mine back. Only was able to use it for a couple hours. Just terrible

Metal orientated this time?

New channel????

Had the same issue with mine and I hardly used it- frustrated. Manufacturer who made this product should recall them to have it fixed.

I hardly used mine and suddenly out of the blue the pan motor kept on locking. It just wouldn’t stay unlocked. Bought it two years ago, I am not sure if it’s still under warranty. I am totally disappointed since it’s kinda expensive.

Only do the test in Repeater mode, without using an Internet cable, use an Internet speed measurement app, there is no video like this on KZbin yet.

Only do the test in Repeater mode, without using an Internet cable, use an Internet speed measurement app, there is no video like this on KZbin yet.

This valve costs the same as the whole pistol, so great job 🤣🤣🤣

0:45 It does go in the hole, yes. Yes, it is a bit of a tight fit. Sorry mate.... Ya lost me at rubber.

Look forward to the review, enjoyed the unboxing. 👍

What are they names to these thing called on Amazon like the spacer the cold shoe

What pop shield is that?

About 15 years ago, I also used the separetta system. Subsequently I made a good sewer system, but for three years the separetta helped me out. I immediately improved this system a little, bought a small pisoir and sink. I installed a more powerful fan and made a taller exhaust pipe for natural draft. But still, stationary sewerage, which is sold here in Russia, is much better than this separetta, it is more expensive, requires qualified installation, but then everything is fine. Good luck to everyone, Hello from Crimea!

I bought a new switch for my gtech and it’s still not working. Now they want me to buy another battery because it might be that! At this rate it would be cheaper to buy a new hoover. I wish more people like you would offer a repair service. I don’t have the skills myself.

can any one share, how to replace battery of Zhiyun Smooth 5

I'd put the demonstration much earlier into the video, i almost clicked away

I use gaffa tape on the laptop!

Not a single clue what's going on there. Apart from you taking off the windshield nothing else make sense

Fabulous rant! Subscribed.

counter balance with an external battery instead.

25 years in the photo industry. Not only very overlooked, but usually not well designed on top of that. Find a picture of an old time studio/film production camera. That huge looking lens on the camera is mostly a lens hood.

“Don’t leave the tissue paper on the inside” - love it! 😂

There's no law that forbids the polarity being reversed as France and Belgium still have to make their mind up on which side they want the polarity to go. And don't assume that the live is ALWAYS on the right side. In the Netherlands the left side is common.

Don't have a laser, but if money were less of an issue I'd be tempted to grab this one just to play around with. The size seems like it could handle bits of wood up to A4, which could perhaps be used for bits of artwork to put up as decorations. Add to that a few signs for around the place, and maybe doing the odd thing for friends and family (maybe birthday presents of some sort), and it sounds like it might be a fun thing to have around! Assuming it's possible, and I appreciate that it might not be, but do you happen to know how it would handle things that need different amounts of burn in different places? If you were able to use a scan of a photo or art print as the source, I'm wondering how well it might do gradients of shading in a monochrome image?

only english get hang up on polarity with AC. meanwhile europe does not care and can plug their plugs any way they want without getting electrocuted. Also those lights only mean that the tester is wrong way around

Thank you for the video, really was helpful with me deciding if the case was good for me :).

If I'm being honest, from personal experience I'm surprised you weren't seeing an Open Ground. Older buildings in this neck of the woods seem to have been wired by people who assumed everything plugged in would be doouble insulated...

Just use a right freakin tool. Angle grinder is not for wood

Jack Black ?

Kenny Everett was the original and best.

I actually cut my thumb off with one of these blades 3 months ago WITH the guard on 😢 (they put it back dw)

😂

This Gimbal is a piece of garbage. Dont spend your money. I regret buying this chinese product. Mind you there are cheaper alternatives out there in the market.

I was having the exact same problem. Very frustrating ....thank you for the tip

I am relieved finding someone with the same problem. HAHA. Thank you! Is that a common mistake in production? in the beginning it was ok, if I remember. Do they replace it?

HI THANKS FOR YOUR INPORT, JUST GOT SAME GIMBAL, TRYING DO SAME, WITH MY PHONE AND MY DLSR CAMERA, GOOD LUCK WITH CHANNEL, INSPECTOR " C JUST SUBSCRIBED

Grabbing this case in the S3 TG Version, but brother what webcam do you use?

Small transformers used before switched mode devices have poor regulation,10-25%. Also the output voltage tracks the input. Thats 230V+-10% including the UK. The output voltage of a power supply should be at the rated load current. A nominally 12V rating producing 20V off load is not unusual. Where these power supplies were used the load device should have been designed tp cope. Transformer supplies with built in regulators do exist but are uncommon.

It could be an unregulated power supply in which case it would produce 12V only when loaded appropriately. This is why so much equipment says only to use the supplied adapter. Alternatively it could be a knackered regulated supply :)

Connector is GND, +12V, TACH, PWM. So you connected +12V and tach. Basically tach pull down certain amount of rotation. So it have certain area where it won't start or it's using IC protection diodes because it have more negative potential than GND. Quick search for images "computer fan pinout" would have give you right pinout picture.

Best video

The edge is already thin enough without doing a full flat grind. I prefer a micro bevel, it’s a stronger edge.

Air will always move to the highest point so as long as the tubes going into the radiator are above the CPU block you're okay

Opinel recommends using a 15°-20° angle to sharpen. If you do sharpen at those angles and then strop you will achieve a convex angle like they come with stock giving you that “opinel sharp” there’s also 50 different ways to skin a cat and none of them are wrong it’s just different.

Wow who is this guy, it can't be Marcus as there's a lot of missing facial hair. Oh hold on it is and he found his long lost razor 🪒. Good review bud.

Marc, what have you replaced the hohem with?

Its horrible. Got one from Amazon, was SO hopeful. Overheated within 3 mins and then constant Error 03 codes and shuttong down, not eorking correctly. Its rubbish. They better take it back.

That's a "permanent magnet brushed motor", aka a plain old PM-DC motor, not a "permanent magnet synchronous motor". The rotor has the windings, the "stator" is the permanent magnets, therefore requiring brushes to conduct the electricity to the (rotating) rotor. A synchronous motor would have 3 (or multiple of 3) wires coming out of it for conducting the electricity to the stator, with no brushes inside, for as you stated, the magnets would be on the rotor instead. The output of the 3 "phase" wires would be in Alternating Current, not Direct Current, and would require a rectifier to change it in to something approximating DC, so there's another clue that shows this is a PMDC motor, as there is no rectifier in the circuit. There's also brushless DC motors, which still use alternating current, but the wave form is trapezoidal/square wave, which also has 3 wires and would rectify pretty well in to DC. These (typically) have more cogging than PMSM, but they both have some...you'll note as you're spinning that little guy that there is no cogging; if you feel any resistance in certain spots, it's probably because there's a rough spot on the commutator or some other kind of mechanical issue. That's yet another clue....which you shouldn't need at this point. Voltage is directly proportional to speed with a PM motor, so you can get whatever voltage you want that the motor (and brushes in this case) can handle spinning at...unless otherwise marked, I'd assume 5000rpm, the typical limit of cheap bearings. YMMV. This appears to be a motor out of a kid's electric scooter, like the razor E100...they';re somewhere around 2500rpm @24v, IRRC; so long as you can spin it decently over that, you can charge a 24v battery bank/pack with it. You want ~28.8V, which is more like 3000rpm; there will be some losses, so I'd be over-shooting by 10-20%. Said motor is rated at about 5 amps, but only if you get it going fast and hard enough. It can go over that for a limited amount of time without hurting it, like 1 or 5 minutes at 2x or 3x the rated power, so long as it isn't continuous and it gets a chance to cool off (not exceeding it's rated output or under it) for a while. The treadmill motor is the same design as this motor, as noted, but neither is synchronous. Yours might be higher over there, but they tend to be rated at 90 or 130v over here, easily obtained by rectifying mains voltage in to DC. The ones I have are in the 40-50 rpm/v range, so you'll get at least twice the voltage per RPM that you would out of that little 120w motor. They're also rated for 2.25hp or somewhere around 1800w output; nowhere near as efficient(70%?) as a BLDC (85%) or PMSM(93%), but if it's free energy then it's not the end of the world. I might suggest an ebike/hoverboard motor, as they can get in the ~10rpm/v, which would probably be low enough to skip the belt drive and go to spinning it directly, depending on your battery's voltage. Don't forget a diode, at bare minimum, if you're charging with a brushed motor, otherwise your windmill will only charge when the wind is blowing it faster than it's already spinning(as a motor driven fan). Mmkay?