The Honda and the R.E. are chalk and cheese. The 350 will cruise easily at 80 and 90kph and even do 100kph for a short while on faster roads. The bike I had was prone to vibrating at 90 and over and had a tendency to drop into false neutral at times but I got over that to some extent by changing my gear change style. I've sold my UCE and in a couple of months intend to get the new Honda GB350. So much better, lots of advantages like tubeless tyres and good engineering. Doesn't look as good as the Classic but rides so much better on a recent demo run I did. The Classic has the looks and you will never be without friends when you stop for a coffee. 100kph - kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXe9hZyEas6diNEsi=he5-RseexdsP8DCX&t=10

Specifically for the CB250 the bike should be OFF the center stand. Unlike the Royal Enfield Classic 350, which should be ON the center stand when checking oil levels. So, you must be familiar will all bikes of all vintages. What a great brain you must have. Or haven't.

Here's another one; all the way over the top on a Royal Enfield Classic. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKW0apWQd690irMsi=gVe1OvnkdN5of3s_

Thank you Mr Milkman. Chain guard rattling.

The Honda CB250 does not have a renewable oil filter, only an oil "screen", which doesn't need replacing. Needs cleaning every 12,800 klm or 8,000 miles according to the manual. It's not easy to get at. You have to remove one exhaust, clutch cable and then a section of the engine to access it.

@@cb250y8 It's true. I just realized that you need to.open the motor to access to it. Thanks!

I'm a DIY m/bike mechanic... I suppose the first thing I would do is check all the fuses under the seat. The plugs get their power from the coils, so no spark at the plugs means no power to the coils. HT Coils usually fail when they're old and get very hot. If the bike is not hot then probably coils are ok. Issue must be with electrical components under the seat. If none of the fuses have blown then maybe check the spark plugs for proper gap. They may be way too wide. Can't think of much else. Check cable connections; it's possible something may have come loose. Let me know how you get on. What year CB do you have?

I'm having the same problem, trying to sort it now

@@GunnarSalyer If it cuts out when engine and ambient temperature is hot and starts when it's cooled down, then it's very likely the coils need replacing.

@@cb250y8 no, it was running great and then overnight it stopped. Now, neither spark plug sparks, and I doubt both coils would go out together. And they don't spark cold. It still turns over fast though, and all other electronics seem to work

@@GunnarSalyer There's a few electrical bits and pieces under the seat you'll need to get a bike electrician to look at to find out what's wrong. It is obvious the coils are not receiving a power supply. Check fuses. Sorry I can't help more.

Suggest you change it whenever the colour of the oil gets dark. I would suggest around 2,000 to 3,000 kilometers ( <2,000 miles). Depends on condition of the engine, so check the oil frequently.

@@cb250y8 Try watching the video.

Found it on eBay. Came from China. There are clear versions too. You have to modify the metal fittings to fit the headlight bolts but I guess it depends on what bike you are putting it on. www.ebay.com.au/itm/373118221800

@@cb250y8 I am putting it on an american CB250 (2006). I have purchased a variation of that exact item, and was underwhelmed by the quality. What modifications did you do, other than drill the slot large enough to allow the headlight bolt through?

@@JohnDoe-fk6id No other mods except that I opened up the hole so it was U shaped now I can pull the thing off and on without completely removing the headlight bolts. I also replaced the nuts with self-locking ones. It's cheap and Chinese. Can't expect too much. I paid the equivalent of $24 USD; post free. Australian made shields are $100+

90 kph.