Yeah they can get real high. The only thing weak component on these is the Transmission really. Finding one of these with low miles is unfortunately rare.

So at about 3:00 I am talking about the taillight bulb replacement essentially. You do have to pull the taillight to replace the bulbs. But as shown in this video it is not hard to do fortunately.

I actually figured out kinda how to get it to be tight lol. At least for the front bumper the back bumper where it is "tied" is still horrid. Perhaps Lewis county fair. If for any reason not that fair then probably Otsego county fair.

Fair enough. I have the luxury of having Alldata and other stuff like that. My Father and I do a lot of electrical work on vehicles so it just second nature basically at this point.

hey

perhaps :)

happens

Yep they are. I have done a ton of towing with it since and still keeps going. Only problem I have had with it is the plastic heater hose coolant T connection near the water pump busted open at of course an inconvenient time and the radio stopped working that same morning. It was just a bad day for it lol. Got it fixed and I upgraded the radio even further to the Cadillac Escalade sound system. The only difference really was the amp. Mine already had all the bose stuff with subwoofer. It also blew a brake line a couple months before that. Other than those relatively small issues it has been very good. The only problem is the fact they are not worth anything to people. I cant believe people overlook such great vehicles as suburbans.

Yes, I love my ole pig lol. Sometimes has its issues, but overall a good vehicle.

I only had a hiccup that one time. For some reason every time since then the 4x4 has worked properly. The ABS light has been on since I got this truck. The abs pump has a short in it.

no problem

thanks

Welcome.

You may have a valve cover leak possibly, it maybe slow. Like I said before monitor it and see if it seems to be leaking. That job kind of sucks just because you have to take apart the side part of the motor to get off the rear valve cover. The coolant flows through a large housing that also holds the alternator, which must be removed to get to the rear valve cover. Anyway, best of luck with the car. I guess we will have to see what happens.

I didn't have any of those codes there. Everything in my second 5 volt rail was fine other than the secondary air check valve. It was shorted causing this issue. Your situation is completely different. The p0442, p0451 are probably related to each other. C0040 is obviously its own code and it is either the harness or the wheel bearing itself(both do fail). The p162b is gonna be the code you are actually concerned about as far as the reduced power. Did you try to clean the throttle body? That seems to be an issue with these cars.

Thanks for your fast reply I just fixed the driver's having no heat that's nothing to do with the codes but it was a pain in the ass but I jacked up the car and the hub bearings are good I got to check the ABS wires the throttle body looks clean I did order a throttle pedal for one of the codes that will be coming in this Friday but it seems like when I turn hard left the ABS and traction control will come on the engine light only came on once since I had it for only a week now and I cleared it there is no misfire so I'm going to see when I put in this throttle pedal hopefully everything goes away if not then I'm going to have to do the wire harness on the ABS and I get two of them for like 30 bucks off of Amazon but I got to order a soldering kit to side of the wires correctly and shrink wrap it the wires but at first I thought my car was different because on the air cleaner box you have the exact same thing as I do it was a pain in the ass trying to get that new air cleaner in because there's a hose on the left top side of the airbox and I never seen that on an Impala before except for yours if you know what I mean it's a big hose on the airbox on the top left side of it all the other 3.5 Motors doesn't have that and mine's just a regular LT 3.5 but I do have a sunroof and the garage door opener thing that I still can't set on the garage door just minor things but I love Impalas I had a 2017 for a year and I loved it the new body style 305 horsepower 3.6 and the dealer ripped me off with the paying the extra $1,500 for 50,000 Mi powertrain warranty I want through water and water got into the intake that sees the motor and that powertrain warranty just screwed me over so I had them take the car I said if you guys ain't going to repair it and rip me off on the powertrain warranty I ain't paying for a car that I can't drive so I got a good deal on this car and it's paid off just modern things that I got to do thank you very much for getting back to me

@@TheMikevolbeat Yeah no problem with the quick response. I try to get back as soon as I see it. Sometimes youtube will not give me a notification for awhile if it does so in the first place. Anyways, yeah definitely sounds like a wiring issue with that abs. Very common. Yes that big pipe is for the air pump, it is attached right in front of bottom of motor and the transmission where they connect. Keep an eye on the motor oil as the 3.5 does like to leak oil!!! They are great motors, but they do have a few issues and leaking a bunch of oil is definitely one of the them! Don't overfill it though as you will blow out more seals. Hopefully you have better luck with it. They really are good cars, but it is important to just keep up with the fluids. If the transmission ever acts up it is probably the solenoids(that is if it is shifting funny and slipping in drive). That is a big job, but the newer impala's have a similar issue as well. If you have any more questions on what is common impala issues lmk, because I think I have owned 9 or 10 of them. Specifically 2006-2011. I also have owned a 2001 and a 2016 Impala limited(old body style is why it was a limited). They started putting the 3.6 v6 in 2012 and carried on until they discontinued the impala.

I have put a few of these through demo derbies now. Well all I have to say is it is all about how you drive. I would say camry's are tougher though. Hopefully I can do well in this Lumina. Thanks.

You right lol. Glad I could help though!

Nope. Didn't really care to be honest. The motor sat outside for few years before I started to do anything with it so I am sure that didn't help. I wasn't looking to save anything really. I just wanted to see what the top of the pistons looked like and if there was piston valve contact.

You have to measure precisely and drill a small hole over where the button will be in the off position. Hit the button the same as if it was in the on position and it the ignition cylinder should pop out. As far as I can tell this works.

Definitely could be transmission fluid. The transmission fluid is red. From what you explain I would bet 99% it is the transmission fluid. The power steering pump would have went dry almost immediately had enough come out. The transmission holds a lot more fluid. What you were experiencing was slipping clutches more than likely due to low fluid making it have "no power". The transmission cooler lines are probably rotted. The power steering pump is located on the side of the motor with the pulleys at the very top of the engine. The cap will kind of look like a steering wheel, if not say power steering fluid on it. The lines for the power steering pump go on the passenger side towards the back of the motor to the rack and pinion. Like I said though, it will probably be the transmission if I were to guess.

Its a smaller town in NY. About an hour north of Utica NY.

Generally really good cars. Problem is sometimes people mess with the wiring and end up making it way worse(either then or down the line).

Not gonna make it for that demo. When I say things are crazy around here I aint kidding lol. Wish I could make it there to record, but that particular weekend is of course shot for me. I might have to make a more in depth video into what is going on. I am probably not gonna make it to half the derbies I am usually at this year.

@@derbydog02 damn that sucks😔

@@lansesteiner3563 Yeah it does

Bummer, I’m gonna have an MWFA car from Sanfilippo

@@dkettlewood sweet

Not going to meltdown. I can and probably will explain that in another video.

You will have to drill a small hole and do it precisely above where the button is while the cylinder is in the off position. I would make sure to do some good measurements beforehand. If done correctly it should work.

no

Still have the Lumina. Don't have the Lesabre.

You would either have to program new key, or put a resistor in to bypass the passlock system.

That's a good question! I have no idea lol.

Thinkdiag obd2 reader

This car turned out pretty well. I have a few build videos on the Regal's. Each one I have built a little different than the other. This one in particular got a heavier front bumper for example. That ended up being a mistake because the front frame on this car had a rot hole on the passenger side front uni-body frame rail.

@@derbydog02 I think I seen you run a pre ran one in herkimer a few years back. Could be mistaking , I got a 94 custom idk if there much of a difference but looking forward to the build, be a bonestock build so we will see.

@@TwEaKeR262 I ran a pre ran Lumina in Herkimer in 2021. Identical underneath to the Buick Regal. The rear end is a little bit different between the two. The back end on the regal in my opinion is actually tougher than the Lumina. However, my Lumina was very clean so it held up very well. Also depends on the motor too. The 3800 in the 94 is decent, but it needs to have motor mounts changed around. I actually did cover this in the build series. The transmission mount on the passenger side connecting the transmission to the subframe is problematic and can break the housing on that part of the transmission. I had that happen on my 1995 Buick Regal. It had the same exact motor setup.

Yes, not all of the Impala have that valve. If you are having these issues just eliminate from the equation. That means it could be the crankshaft position sensor, throttle body, engine coolant temp sensor, or the accelerator pedal sensor.

@@derbydog02 Ok cool, I actually started off with the TPS and it ran like crap after disconnecting. Reconnected it and now it runs fine, left it idling for a good while and still good, but I wonder if running it on the street will make it mess up again. Thanks very much for your video and help I greatly appreciate it.

@@Tamagumo could have been as simple as a bad electrical connection too. I have had these Impala's have issues because the transmission control module plug wasn't happy and simply unplugged it and plugged back in and it was okay. The contacts don't even necessarily need to be corroded. Anyway hopefully you have fixed the issue. If not, feel free to ask me any questions! Welcome for the video too.

I've replaced that sensor three times though! Once aftermarker and twice OEM from the junkyard. I even tried a different PCM, and every time the same issue. I'm gonna drive it tomorrow and see what happens, thanks again. ​@@derbydog02

The issue came back! This has happened in the past after installing a new TPS, ok for a while then problem comes back. The 2 week fix this time though came from running car with TPS disconnected. During this time though car was running fine, I was getting code ​P0315 for the crankshaft position sensor which had not shown up in the past. You think the phantom menace has finally revealed itself? I just don't get how the TPS would be affected @@derbydog02