Love this video is this a hard thing to do I have a 1975 caprice and would love to upgrade mines but would have to find someone to do it, I’m in ATLANTA

how much did you charger for all this?

Excellent

Why these old videos, KZbin trying to suck every penny out them like a vampire on a fresh victim?

thank you...very clear & concise, in a language a novice can understand

All these videos I have seen are US vehicles and usually it is the steel line that is rusted out and leaking. Here in Australia we don't have that issue because we don't generally have snow in winter (Alpine regions excepted) Plus, I noticed lots of rust elsewhere uinder the vehicles which looks bad. Vehicles here rarely get like that. Just think you guys in the states have a rough deal with your cars rusting out so quickly and badly. Just sayin.

Didn't need the new alternator, just needed a new pigtail. Learn how to do a terminal drag test before you load the parts cannon.

What’s the name of the part?

I read that the connector from the boost to the brake pedal has to be line up . Yours wasn’t , it was on the Manuel brake location . My question is did you have any issues?

WHY ARE WE YELLING??! HELL YEAH BROTHER

I didn't know. Daniel Cormier was an auto mechanic

Hello, my 2012 Ford C Max vehicle sometimes does not start. There is an electrical fault. Does this fuse work?

Can’t Wait To See New Updates!!

Just Watched The Entire Video &’ Now I Wanna Do The Same Thing To My 07 MC SS 😂😂…..

So without that Snapon unit, we cant do this ourselves???

It's on the front right side underneath the right tire cover .

How do you remove the middle piece?

what I want to know is how tightly shimmed where your carrier bearings I'm doing my buddy's trans am same car but I had to pry with a good sized pry bar to get the carrier out of the axle it was ridiculous and there is a real thin shim in the right side I'm thinking about keeping out when it goes back together cuz I feel like there was to much preload on the bearings wich is probably why the bearings and races on it have went bad for the second time I assume cuz there are signs someone has done them before so probably the originals the ones they put in and now these ones being put in now

any noise from this 4.10s ?

How are you, I also have a car 4 350, its sim problem, tell me what exactly can be the problem, the indicator and light are not working on the left side.

Same problem with my 2019. Can I drive it like this 30mls to get it to the dealership?

I just done this to a 2018 COLORADO 4x4 3.6l, I found the best/fastest way for me was to remove the AC compressor. It gave reasonable access to both lines at the engine. Took me about 5-6 hr start to finish, and a considerable amount of cursing engineers. It was a live job so it had to be done the same day in and out. Foot note, those little clips are bastards. Don't lose them.

That clicking sound that what my car making 8:33. how to fix that? I’m thinking head gasket and manifold gasket. I have misfire to and coolant leak.

Did the crosstrex have oil in the coolant? If so thats why the hoses blew out. Caused by one of three leaks. Also the misfire is commonly caused by the coilpack firing between coil and boot.

you have to add a resistor when using the led vs the reg bulb. should be black and white left side black and purple for the right side

Why did my mechanic not figure this out! Thank you

Mine is leaking at the radiator fitting. I can't find the new fitting

roll that fuckin rea window down man

motor behind tranny indeed does not work....and the car is ruined

Mine is cracked too. About to buy the part hope it fixes mine

I bought a Durango from a fella, he had one of those crimp connectors going from the aftermarket positive battery cable into the fusebox, and it was barely connected. And the negative cable was replaced with an amplifier cable with clear insulation. I was having major electrical gremlins that kept stranding me until I replaced the janky wiring.

Wish I would have seen your video before I replaced the ESIM. Same exact crack from heat failure most likely. The new part will do the same...Gorilla tape and HVAC tape over it as a heat shield. Hope the code doesn't come back again!

2018 GC and exact same issue as well… thanks for this. (Slightly different routing of hose on V8) but very similar.

🎯🎯 I couldnt see where you brung out the cam was that passenger side

My sister's Jeep is exactly the one that you have except for a 2012 she has a code 171 but for some different reason when I smoked it it was coming at a the furl cap a mechanic told her that she might have a leak in her fuel tank Is there any way to seal this or does she have to drop it

That how it makes

It's not fixed until the pcm passes the evap monitor after a drive cycle, until then don't assume!

4500 for a cam and lifter job might as replace engine right ?

How much does it cost to replace the sensor

Great video

How did you get the hose to realize from the t joint after you removed the red tab. I am having the same issue and can’t remove the hose to replace

Wat fuse is it to it won’t crank all the way

Wanna swap out 4.3l in a 2013 sierra to a 6.0 with t56.

my bro it looks like they replaced that alternator and didnt plug it back up correctly

😂

Wow a fire waiting to happen

Literally same issue just popped up on my 2017 Equinox. I already know the sensor is in the wrong spot though. Just because of losing pressure and the wrong tire being noted.

I bought an old truck that sat for a couple years with the parking break on. Now if i drive it it will run just fine but when the breaks get hot its like your footon the break the whole time.

Spent about 5 days testing wires in now at the BCM. I’ll check tomorrow but fuse 14 says hot all the time and I wasn’t getting 12 volts to the prongs to that plug so I’m guessing that’s it. Was going to check plugged in thinking it had to be plugged in to get power but it’s not hopefully I can bypass wire or fix BCM. Thanks!