Hi Paul, These passenger coaches are built from Peter Boorman's Workshop kits, they're NSW BS and FS cars, and the guards van is an MHO I believe. These are unfortunately no longer being made as Peter has retired, however there are some people 3D printing their own, usually available through the various Facebook groups relating to Australian or NSW N Scale. Currently you can purchase FO end-platform coaches RTR from Gopher Models, which were used in NSW for suburban and some inter-urban working, as well as some specials, school specials and during holiday periods when the railways needed every coach they could press into service!

Hi Phillip, yes when using a capacitor/s with considerable capacitance (uF) a diode and resistor are used as a charging circuit. I've found this is necessary when capacitance exceeds around 1000uF. When using 2 or 3x 220uF capacitors I have found that this is not necessary, however I do still use a diode in parallel with the capacitors, to prevent anything over 15V reaching the 16V capacitors. For HO scale people prefer 25V as it is safer, the disadvantage is that 25V capacitors are physically larger, which restricts their use in N scale applications. I've fitted well over 100 sound fitted N scale locomotives for customers with 3x 16V 220uF capacitors, and haven't had an issue since starting this procedure several years ago :)

Hi @joaomartins7732, To reset a decoder, it is quite likely you will need to program a particular number to CV8, a lot of decoders use CV8 = 8 as their factory reset procedure. Hold down shift and menu to get into the menu, scroll across to programming, I think it's the third menu item, and then I believe the first menu item of the programming menu is 'CV modification'. Open this up and enter '8', for CV8. It should then read the value of CV 8 once you hit ok, which will then flash on the screen, it will flash a particular NMRA manufacturer ID of the decoder. When flashing, you can change that number to something else (between 1-255) to reset the decoder, hit ok and this will be programmed. You would be best to check the brand of your decoder, and what value needs to be programmed to CV8 for a reset, or maybe even to a different CV number depending on the decoder type... Hope this helps!

@@buckamboolmodeltrains Hello , i put the locomotive in the line test and they only show lights but not run , do you know what can be ? when i try reset CV appears ERROR 2

@@joaomartins7732 I've just replied to your email

Wow, they'd look fantastic illuminated!

Hi Arron, with the original loco, it may be worth doing a factory reset on it. If you're not sure how to do this, just try at least programming CV1, the locomotive's short address. How to do all of this is detailed in the Z21 controller manual if you're not sure... Let me know how you go!

I'd love to, however I don't have a C57 on hand currently to show how it's done, sorry!

Hi John, yes it is unfortunately true. Digikeijs products are no longer available, any left on shelves of stores is old stock, and all of the good stuff has long since sold out unfortunately! YaMoRc are who I'd recommend having a look at, Digikeijs were producing their products under license, the designer of whom has now started YaMoRc and is manufacturing very similar products of his own design under his own brand name. Hope this helps!

Hi Phil, I'm not sure if anyone is currently doing it, I printed this one myself. I may have a spare body at home if you're interested

@@buckamboolmodeltrains 100%, let me know what I owe you.

Hi William, Unfortunately at the moment I just don't have enough time to do a video like that sorry! However, this is a reply I gave to @mrengineer1234 a few months ago, on how to program locomotives: "To change the dcc address, easiest thing to do is to change them to another short address (between a value of 1 and 127), changed with CV1. Hold down shift and menu to get into the menu, scroll across to programming, I think it's the third menu item, and then I believe the first menu item of the programming menu is 'CV modification'. Open this up and enter '1', for CV1. It should then read the value of CV 1 once you hit ok, which will then flash on the screen, hopefully it will flash '3'. When flashing, you can change that number to something else (between 1-127) to give the loco a new address. Once you've done this, you then need to program that particular locomotive and it's new address into the MultiMaus 'library' if you will. So that when you scroll across to that particular locomotive, the MultiMaus is addressing it's DCC address. Hope this makes sense! The manual outlines how to do this also." You can also scroll through the locomotive library with the left and right arrow keys, and if you scroll across to 'NEW', and then hit 'OK', you can type in a new locomotive name, and then a DCC address (e.g. "6") and then it will program that particular DCC address to the locomotive, provided it's on the programming track. To consist locomotives you need to program a particular number (between 1 and 127) to CV19 for any or all of the locomotives that you would like to be consisted together. This can be done with the procedure I described earlier for CV1. Hope this helps somewhat, sorry I can't do a video on it!

Hi Rich, I used a 15x11mm sugar cube speaker with an approx. total height of 9mm, maybe a bit higher, fits right at the back of the tender without any modification to the tender. The sound recording is from ESU, their LokSound 5 GS4 sound file 🙂

@@buckamboolmodeltrains Thank you very much. Did you have to somehow acquire the recordings of the sounds? I assume they did not come with the board or speaker.

@@RichRolph-ro7ep I downloaded the GS4 sound file from the ESU website, and using my LokProgrammer I loaded this to the 58731 decoder

@@buckamboolmodeltrains Very useful information. Thank you very much.

Hi Mark, sorry no I haven't, I use JMRI Decoder Pro to do all of my programming, through my Digikeijs DR5000. If you are keen to have a go though, you can program individual CV's through the programming menu. Hold the shift key and press menu, and scroll across to the second menu (programming), hit ok and then press ok again to open the 'CV modification' tool. You can then type in any CV number, e.g. '6' for CV6, press ok. It will then read CV6 and if successful will tell you what value is programmed to the decoder for that CV. Whilst it's flashing you then have the option to change this value. Hope this maybe will help you get started!

Even less easy to just use MENU+1 and then CV code is read and then push train number-digit to be used and then OK, and then is saved. Couldn't be easier!!

Not for this particular bullet train sorry, it is slightly complex. If you’re quite handy with a soldering iron and comfortable pulling apart intricate models like these, I can provide some tailored advice for you if you like!

@@buckamboolmodeltrains Sure I'll take whatever advice you can offer I am pretty hand with a soldering iron.

@@nscaledelights Can you email me at [email protected] Thanks!

@@buckamboolmodeltrains I would appreciate any assistance that you can give me installing the proper decoder in my Shinkansen.

Thanks AK! I’ve been following your channel for a while, realised I should subscribe!! Your stuff is great 👍🏻

@@buckamboolmodeltrains Thanks, man, I'm going to do more videos about ZIMO product, lately I got a lot of installation with ZIMO decoders.

Hi there, Yes unfortunately not for sale, it was a one off job. Would have charged around $250 or so to do this particular job.

Yep it is pretty intuitive once you get your hands on one! To change the dcc address, easiest thing to do is to change them to another short address (between a value of 1 and 127), changed with CV1. Hold down shift and menu to get into the menu, scroll across to programming, I think it's the third menu item, and then I believe the first menu item of the programming menu is 'CV modification'. Open this up and enter '1', for CV1. It should then read the value of CV 1 once you hit ok, which will then flash on the screen, hopefully it will flash '3'. When flashing, you can change that number to something else (between 1-127) to give the loco a new address. Once you've done this, you then need to program that particular locomotive and it's new address into the MultiMaus 'library' if you will. So that when you scroll across to that particular locomotive, the MultiMaus is addressing it's DCC address. Hope this makes sense! The manual outlines how to do this also.

@@buckamboolmodeltrains Thank you for your elaborate and quick answer!

Thanks! Yes you’re definitely more than welcome to. If you’re on Facebook we have a group for our club

Hi Phil, In terms of ease of use I’d go with the Roco WLAN Maus. It’s a wireless version of the MultiMaus, unfortunately didn’t have one at the time of filming this video. To use it with the DR5000 all you have to do is power up the throttle, and you’re off and away. It connects with the inbuilt WiFi in the DR5000. For me the Digitrax throttles are a little bit clunky, and require a wireless receiver module to be bought separately, which adds a lot to the cost. Using a WiThrottle device like a smart phone or tablet, or a TCS UWT requires the use of a computer to host a WiThrottle server, until Digikeijs release their firmware update, so that’s also a little clunky. I’ve got a WlanMaus in stock for $200 if you’re interested 🙂

Sounds like a good plan, I’ll be in touch! I was leaning toward the cable version in your vid, but the wlan version sounds even better.

@@cossiephil rest assured the WLAN connection is strong and reliable. As good as a cable one 🙂

Oh nice! I recently fitted sound to one actually, that was something a bit different. I just wish Kato would make them more DCC friendly!! If they took an EM13 style decoder that would be great. All the best!

@Buckambool Model Trains yes I thought that was what I could fit in them, zimo mx605 range. Ended up using digitrax dz126t.

Only a few blocks away! You're more than welcome to have a look any Saturday, and we've also got an open day coming up on Saturday the 15th of April 9am-5pm. Thanks!

Hi Peter, Which capacitor in particular are you referring to? If you’re wanting to build your own stay alive for N scale I’d recommend using some of the tantalum capacitors that I have available…

Hi Stephanie, There's quite a few of them out there, all built from kits, they're worth a fortune to purchase 2nd hand from modellers who've put them together! I believe there should still be kits available from BadgerBits, they trade online as 'Gopher Models', try getting in contact with them, their website is: www.gophermodels.com.au If you have any trouble getting in contact with them let me know, I can give them a call.

Coming soon @clayton4115 !

@@buckamboolmodeltrains ohhhh looking forward to it!

Thanks! He may possibly have some left, have a check and see with Peter. The DCC sound decoder is dual mode, so will work with sound on DC as well as DCC, just on DC you won't be able to blow the horn! You can of course on DCC :) Would be more than happy to help out!

Some fair points there Eric! The smoke unit was already wired direct to the track, so I left it that way for simplicity’s sake, however it could easily be improved by connecting to the sound decoder and controlled like you’ve suggested 🙂 Not sure how we could do blacker smoke, I don’t know enough about smoke for model railway applications yet!

They’re a decent sound decoder for their price point, for American and UK prototypes they offer an affordable way to get sound into a large fleet of HO/OO locomotives, however lack the quality of ZIMO or ESU sound decoders, and the quality of the sound projects that can be custom loaded onto them. Not to say they’re bad, you get what you pay for, they’re a more generic less expensive option. They have different Econami sound decoders for different types of locomotives I believe, and on each there’s a range of various generic type sounds you can choose between. For Australian N Scale they’re not all that useful, they’d only perhaps be useful in an N scale American steam locomotive where there’s enough space in a tender to fit one in…

@@buckamboolmodeltrains thanks Jarryd I picked up a second hand BACHMANN N GAUGE 62351 DIESEL for the first time in my life I have a sound loco and I played around it with today, was very impressed with the sound, but that's a newbie opinion, looking forward to hearing that 81 and B class on my layout !

@@clayton4115 Ok yep, they’re actually quite decent for a sound fitted locomotive, that’s great!

Probably! I’ve done a fair few, either castings or 3D prints that are painted and decalled by some of my customers. They run on Tomytec mechs

Thanks Kev, all good! I didn’t put the locomotive together, just added the DCC Sound decoder to it, so all good 😀 I mainly model NSW locomotives. I believe it was an Atlas mech and body shell

It was an oddball request from a customer, I didn’t actually fit the smoke, just added the sound decoder. Definitely something different! Thanks! 😀

Is yours like this red multiMAUS with a wired connection? Or have you got the black wireless one?

@@buckamboolmodeltrains I've got the red one like yours z21 Starter wireless with a red multimaus

Hi David, The locomotive body and tender are cast from masters, the masters are brass. They are available from BadgerBits, who now predominantly trade as 'Gopher Models' - here is their website: gophermodels.com.au The kit is not advertised on their website, however if you get in contact with them I believe it's still available. Yes it is an Australian locomotive, more specifically a NSW railways locomotive, the 38 class, there are other examples of these on my website yes. There were 5 built with a streamlined design, as per the loco in this video, and 25 un-streamlined. They were built in Australia and were a highly successful design. To paint kits like these many of us will airbrush the main colour on, and all of the lining and numbering is done via decals. The best finish is achieved with multiple very thin coats of gloss paint sprayed on with an airbrush, apply the decals, seal with a gloss coat and then if desired apply a flat or dull coat over the top and weathering if desired.