How's the old Bela-roos doing after 2 yrs, l bought one 30yrs ago. I too called it a Ba-laris, still have it, thing just always starts. Good luck 🤞

I know, it doesn’t have a body leveling kit… It has a suspension leveling kit which will affect plow hookup height so the plow mount has to be adjusted accordingly to that.

Ya we haven’t had time to pull it apart to see what happened exactly, I may do a video on that when we get around to pulling it apart.

Do you mean the small toggle switch that switches from the truck lights to the plow lights?

Yes

If that same switch, I know that I have to attach it to the wires that come out of the control. But I don't know what wires or what color I should add them to.

If it’s the one inside the cab they just plug into the harness where it comes through the fire wall. There should be 2 wires with connectors already on them.

OK, thank you very much for your help. Very grateful and blessings.

Sorry for the late response, Depending on where you live you would have to use what is allowed in your area. Round up works best for grassy weeds if you are able to use that. It’s best to use a wick applicator to brush it on the weeds. Kind of a tedious task but works the best with no over spray damage to surrounding plants.

The older Deere’s are notorious for hard starts due to hydraulic pump pressure while cranking. Have to turn the steering wheel back and forth to relieve pressure. Also before cranking pull the stop nob out and push it back in that resets the rack for starting, ours fired right up after I learned that little trick. And bad injectors could also cause hard start as well as heavy fuel consumption. Only way to know for sure is to have them tested. Along with a plugged air filter. As for the over heating could be a couple things.. If you had the head checked I imagine it’s not cracked and new head gasket so shouldn’t be the problem. water pump good? Belts tight? Radiator plugged? Thermostat good? Rad cap replaced after head gasket? System could need flushed. We have a jd 544J loader that the fan pulley is a press on the water pump shaft and it wore out and was spinning on the shaft so the fan was turning but pump wasn’t so the coolant wasn’t circulating very much causing over heating and boiling over when running hard loading trucks.

​@@BlueGrassSodProducers spinning on the shaft, thats a good tip. its never been checked for that problem. i'll have to give it the full diagnosis whenever winter finally ends

They should have a marking with the part number and size stamped right on them standard (std) will be stamped on it. If they are oversized they will have a measurement with something like OS And undersized measurement with US. I personally haven’t worked on anything with oversized or undersized yet. It is always best to check the manual for the specs and take measurements to make sure the crank is within spec before ordering bearings.

Yup for sure, my dually will squat a decent amount when it’s really wet. They had a tundra so not a chance of a full pallet unless it was bone dry.

@@BlueGrassSodProducers LOL. Oh goodness no. I don't mind Tundra's but yeah not nearly enough truck for that. Even a dry load has to be well over 1000 lbs.

It can be challenging we haven’t had much for problems with our peat soil we tend to keep it on the lighter side of application. Just depends on fertilizing/chem application practices. Haha Yes this is from last season we’re still snow removal here but this snow season has been insane not much time to edit.

Thank you!

It’s a 15/16 wrench

I’d have to check, can’t remember the name off the top of my head. I’ll see if I can find it and I’ll get back to you on that. They are in Ontario here in Canada or at least this place was.

We got them from Canadian tractor parts

@@BlueGrassSodProducers I went back and looked. The piston packs were Max Power. Plenty of them have been used. Be very curious what the root cause is if you guys ever tear that engine down. Several potential failures could case this. Really sucks it took out the block. Fortunately there are plenty of used engines to be had.

Never had any experience with a dyno, they had one at the school I was attending for Ag tech but they didn’t have it set up at the time. It was supposed to be one of the those climate control -60 to +60C (or something like that) rooms for testing hp loss in severe temperatures. But yes a dyno would be way better for this type of stuff instead of this way for sure. I was wishing we had one at the time but can’t really justify having one yet maybe later down the road.

​@@BlueGrassSodProducers PTO dyno is the ticket for tractors. They are self contained on a little trailer. Hook a water hose to it. Depending on the dyno the water may help apply the load, in addition to cooling the unit. Got mine a long time ago at a farm auction.

Lol your “break in procedure” is so wrong💀

@@bigcheese370 I bet one of us has built considerably more engines. Probably the guy with the dyno... not hiding behind a keyboard, and an alias.

Haha ya we’ve buried a few machines over the years the worst on was before i was working out there one of the guys sunk our IH 4366 up to the cab. Ended up having to call a neighbor with a bigger 4wd to come help pull it out

Ya they require around 55lbs to seat them in if I remember correctly. I think with our home made tool would be as simple as welding a socket with a half inch drive on the end to use a torque wrench. The initial torque spec would be for the proper crush on the copper washer for sure.

@@BlueGrassSodProducers No doubt you can fab something up. Just make sure the torque wrench attaches directly above the injector. Otherwise the applied torque is higher or lower depending on it's orientation. And now I see this video is 10 months old. Pretty sure this ship has sailed already. LOL.

It’s worked great so far, only put a couple hundred hours on it this past season. Will definitely be putting some hours on it this up and coming season, I was hopping to use it more but there’s way too much snow now.

@@BlueGrassSodProducers thank you for the reply. I've been looking at all the options for mulches and shredders. I'm still trying to make my mind up lol

319,000 kilometres so about 198,000miles at the time, but as far as I know it’s the original engine.

@@BlueGrassSodProducers That says a lot about the 6.2 to still be running strong at almost 200k miles. Thanks for the reply.

Yes from the experience I’ve had with them they seem like a good engine.

Why do you say that?

200 hours is fine.

It matters on the oil. Something like a 10w30 yea you need to change every 100 or so but something like 20w50 will last more than 200 hours being thicker it will last a lot longer but in a engine that don’t run very much the oil won’t get hot enough to burn out moisture causing sludge and other issues

Not on this truck but we have on others, we put a higher output alternator on our other trucks. It helps keep the battery charge up. It’s usually a bad/weak battery that causes it or bad/dirty connections. Load test the battery see where it’s at. If it’s low I’d say that’s the cause and check the alternator to make sure it is charging. Then check your battery connections, the plug in for your plow on the truck and plow side make sure they’re corrosion free. As well check the cables that connect to the electric pump, on the plow itself, that they aren’t loose or dirty. Also oil level in the plow. If it’s low it will put more strain on the pump and draw way more power. Just a few things I’d check hope this helps. Caleb

@@BlueGrassSodProducers Is there anyway you can do a video on how your plow wiring is running on your truck and send it to me thanks

Is there something specific that I didn’t show in the video?

We had a machine shop replace and seat the new valves Sorry for the late response

Yes I try to get oil changed every 200 hours or once a month. As the meter reads now is 5105hrs we bought it used apparently had 11,000hrs so 15,105hrs total as far as I am aware.

The peat soil holds the moisture a lot better than the mineral (heavier ground), so the mineral would need to be watered before the peat soil.

Yes they are carbide teeth, good to know! Thank you!