@@rogerwilhelm6128 he has foam ear plugs and prescription safety glasses. He's good.

@@jamesbeeman8192 thanks for your kind comments. 17 years experience has done him well.

@@ERLong-ww7ynwhat’s sticking out the back of the saw?

@HubertofLiege a measuring whip, or "tail". Flexible plastic tail with a bracket that is screwed to the saw handle. You then measure four feet from the tip of the bar where it marks the trunk to the four foot point on the tail, and cut the tail off. Then, while limbing trees, you have a convenient way to measure in four foot increments. Our market for softwood calls for eight foot, twelve, or sixteen foot.

@@MySliceOfHeavenoutdoors the two replacement cameras they sent me have both failed miserably. The sensors seem to be really weak

@ERLong-ww7yn do you know the model you have?

@MySliceOfHeavenoutdoors not certain. They went to the trash

@@ersinhaseki7667 yes you do. I keep it mounted on an old bar

@@TitusOutdoorLiving had some issues this summer. Couple operations and went a month with my knee locked. Getting back in the swing of things again though.

UPDATE---Engine hot-A/C turned off...So here we are again, same issue. This time I will replace the Coolant Tempture Sensor and see how that works. I will keep you updated.

Okay, I replaced the temperture sensor and filled with fresh engine coolent, reset/cancel code. The only thing left to do (if this doesn't solve is issue) is replace the thermostat according to what I have seen here on KZbin. There is also a short KZbin video on this subject made by Creative Mechanic. In the video he shows the viewer how he solved the issue which he said is a common problem on these models. All he does is remove the fusebox cover, locate the EMC fuse and remove the fuse for a few seconds then puts it back in, problem solved! I'm sorry but there is a reason that this problem exist and after replacing the fan relay last month the same message/code came back on. This time I was on the road miles from any town and on a Sunday. I was able to drive the truck without any overheating issues. Granted I had no A/C but it drove fine.....no overheating nothing. Now I replaced the tempture sensor and I can tell that it had been replaced once before. Maybe someone can enlighten me as to what is causing this to happen.....Your comments are appreacated.

@@robertfowler8797dude thank you a lot for your hard work and comments I’m having a issue too with my Sierra thermostat is showing fucking 230 and it can be so many things 💀 from a radiator cap to a water pump or those electric fuses

@@zavengrigoryan7784 Hello, I have now replaced the thermostat with a AC-Delco . I paid a few extra dollars but it's oem product not an aftermarket item. I truly believe the issue is now solved, after driving over one thousand miles in different conditions the trucks runs fine and no Fault lights. I hope all go's well with your truck.

Should read "some apps." My long one works well for hollowing out things but not well for it's intended purpose. When doing fine work as the host outlined I have 4" of razor sharp blade sticking out! Not a great scenario.

Its the way they piled logs in the old days while waiting for them to be trucked or sledded to a mill.

Yes, occasionally we come across one that is still in good shape. I've had old timers tell me of stands of balsam that were close to 24" on the butt, although I've never seen them that large

Yes, I priced them recently. Inflation really takes a bite.

And yet two sawmill manufacturers that I know of have copied this exact design for machines of their own. All I know is its worked well for me for twenty years.

Ok....forty five years of logging experience kinda tells me that....

​@@ERLong-ww7yn Yes, but you need to explain that to your viewers, many of whom don't have that background knowledge, and some of whom have an "easy-money, get-rich-quick" attitude when they start imagining millions of dollars of profit in their little 10-acre woodlot. 😉

I don't have a setter currently. I only get four or five sharpening per blade before they develop stress cracks, and in 18 years I've only had a handful of blades get a tooth badly out of set.

@@ERLong-ww7yn I have just finished sharpening my second band. The first one went slow, second one was quick by comparison once I had developed the technique. Unless one makes contact with foreign bodies in the timber, there is no reason why the tooth pitches should change. Quite correct. If I can get 5 sharpenings per blade, the savings on outsourcing the sharpening will afford me a new blade. Thanks again for your invaluable info!

Absolutely. Winter cut wood that is junked and split and stacked to air dry will be at 10% moisture or less in early September. Just cover your ranks with a bit of plastic making sure the plastic doesn't hang down to the ground. If it does that, the plastic will trap moisture inside the pile. You just need a top covering to shed the rain.

@ERLong-ww7yn thanks for the reply.. i usually fall my wood in August at the full moon, but i find it doesn't get dry enough it dries some more in the basement but takes all winter before it gets just right .

@@ERLong-ww7yn is it a good time to fall for next year's wood?

@@atv950 one trick I used to see the old guys do when cutting wood in the summer was they'd fall the trees while they were in full leaf, but not limb them immediately. They'd let the leaves wither and dry, and in doing so, the leaves help suck moisture out of the wood. I would say cutting wood past early September for winter use is pushing it. In a dry year, wood can be cut in September if it is split and piled immediately. Wood cut and left in long lengths will dry in about 12 inches on the ends, but then that dried wood prevents moisture from escaping from the center of a log. I've seen hardwood and softwood logs cut two years, and the center of the tree would be as wet or wetter than a fresh cut tree. The key to drying is expose as much surface area to sun and wind as quick as possible. Hope this helps.

@ERLong-ww7yn awesome thanks a lot

If you're speaking of the orange whip that extends behind the saw, that is a "tail" or "chainsaw measure". It is installed with two screws to the rear handle then cut to a length. We set ours in such a way that from the tip of the bar to the end of the tail is 4 feet and one inch. That way, when measuring up logs for bucking to length, we lay the saw on the tree at the butt, give the saw a shot of gas, marking the log at 4'1". Then, as we proceed up the tree, we mark lengths at 8'2", 12'3" and 16'4". The wood products we sell are either 8'4", 12'6", or 16'6". The whip gives us a quick way to approximate the lengths without using a tape measure.

@@ERLong-ww7ynyou're genious! thanx~

​@ERLong-ww7yn that's genius

The issue we see here is that , for example, in 2004 a tandem load of logs scaled by Bangor Log Rule and delivered to the mill would pay me about $1600.00. At that time, we had numerous mills operating in the province, and most if not all stick scaled. Today, with one major player in the business and all mills buying by weight scale, that same truckload of logs will pay me between $800-900 after trucking. Meanwhile, lumber prices in the building supply stores have quadrupled, chainsaws have doubled in price, fuel has gone from around .75/ liter to $1.68/liter, chain oil has jumped from $7/ gallon to $19/ gallon. The mills are winning, the landowner is losing. Plain and simple.

@@ERLong-ww7yn Mills are winning? Since when? Canada has seen massive mill closures since the 1990s. Major licensees have been pulling out of small towns throughout the West, dooming them in their job markets and people, with their mortgages/homes/families. Licensees still pay for fuel, chainsaws, maintenance, road use agreements. Do you know a sawmill pays a general work labourer a wage upward of 31.00/hourly? This is an extraordinarily high wage for near unskilled-labour, basic material handling. The licensee pays that. Then we have First Nations reconciliation, wildlife and riparian tree retention areas, leave tree basal area specification, old growth area, migratory bird / ungulate range / grizzly habitat government action orders biting into Crown land and timber supply areas, biodiversity / plant rangeland availability / and visual objectives biting into timber supply areas. Absorbent high road-sharing fees with oil and gas, mining, telecomm industry. sigh... the mills are not winning. They are crying. If anything, Woodlot Owners face less of these regulations and government orders than the licensee and mill do.

@@demetrioshristovski4518 your viewpoint is West Coast centric and doesn't reflect the issues New Brunswick and other east coast woodlot owners have faced in the past 25 years. This Woodlot Management series is dedicated to helping newcomers to the game get their footing in small scale forestry, not to promote west coast industrial forestry practices. Thank you for your input.

@@ERLong-ww7yn Fair enough. But as a professional, I am governed by a code of ethics. My code of practice highlights that I practice in BC, under the association of ABCFP, but the ABCFP is regulated Federally, as one province of CIF. CIF regulates forestry throughout canada. About ethics though, not as a person to show partial treatment to any of: Crown Land tenure, mill or licensee, to a christmas tree permit owner, a tree farm license holder, a woodlot license owner, a firewood collection permit owner and seller....but rather seeing this as a wood issue. What is the wood worth? Not particles attached to the wood when wet, or absent when dry. Its my duty as a professional, amongst other professionals, to cruise and scale logs, and produce stumpage on a dry weighted product, which more closely resembles wood entering processing - rather than additionally capturing irrelevant constituents which add weight to the sale of the product. (ice/soil/debris/insect larvae/moisture content) You are looking out for WL owners and small scale startups - okay. But nevertheless, its a stated bias? I am not looking out for anyone, any party - but rather scientifically measuring the true value of wood? A mill, or a persons mill saw, isnt after soil, ice, moisture content, Etc.....correct? Why should any party benefit from it attached to a sale? On another note, this is why we regulate professionals. I have nothing against your channel and its videos, its fine content. And I am here watching it? I use it to learn of forestry (to which I havent had means to learn of maritime forestry before) If you dont want me watching it, that is fine? But I think its pertinent, the help you provide to other woodlot owners and small time startups, you should also disclose more often it isnt the advice from a certified professional.

Dug that one out of the archives from four years ago. The boys were...shall we say...learning. lol