Il est intéressant que vous puissiez entendre que c'est trop riche. En réalité, ce n’est pas le cas. La bougie d'allumage a l'air très bien.

@@FrankyieFrank Difficile à diagnostiquer à distance ....... La bougie est rouge brique. En roulant plein gaz......ou juste avec un quart des gaz . ??

Thats cool. I did not know they where sold anywhere else besides France.

Thats fun! Probably with a stronger engine than my 99z. EV50 cilinder I would image.

@@FrankyieFrank Is the same engine as yours, I just rebuilt it with new rings and gaskets ect. Completely standard except I did a little gas flowing and joint matching for flow. I have always tuned two stroke engines for a hobby:)

@@barrycarleton4326 Well, if you got the same engine as mine, it would not drive 45km/h with 2 people in a miniature car. My moped is not much quicker than that and that is a moped with 1 person. ;-) These engines are not that powerfull. Which is obvious in this video. Acceleration is not that quick. I bet you that you have the quicker cilinder on there. I think that was the stock cilinder for this engine when placed inside a miniature car. But I could be wrong. I do not own such a vehicle.

@@FrankyieFrank I also rebuilt the clutch with new pads which are different to the others as they run opposite dierction, And I use a belt off a Vespa scooter, that made the most difference. I us an expansion chamber on the exhaust and a long 20mm exhaust pipe. I have a few vids of the engine running and test in the car.

@@FrankyieFrank the engine on the 99Z has a controversal compression piston which was described by some as a supercharger. The top revs are down a bit compared with a standard engine but it gives more torque. The hp is slightly raised too. It seems silly talking about power and torque on such a small engine but they have very slight edge over driving slow or not :) Barry

I should have cleaned it. I know. That happens during the prototype stage. I have been touching the glass (no plastic) way to much :P

Ik heb hier ook geruchten van gehoord. Ik heb dit destijds bij de mobylette club geprobeerd uit te vragen maar niemand wist dit met zekerheid te vertellen. Voor de veiligheid kan je er maar beter van uitgaan dat dit het geval is.

Thanks! The quality is still not at is best. This is also prusa slicer. I recognise your problem. This one is easy to solve. In prusa slicer, Go to print setting and than custom GCODES. Your Tool change G-code should end with a command like this, setting the feed rate as high as possible. G1 F15000 This will solve your problem. When looking closer to my movements you will notice I changed a lot more. I had to write a program which reads GCODE files and modifies it in such way that my printer runs the best it can. You will notice for example that I reintroduce the filament when my print head is on the purge tower and not before it is on the purge tower. This is one of many things my program does.

Dank je Vasjo. Dankzij jou is het ook nog eens een grensoverschrijdend project geworden ;-)

It is cable driven by a stepper with gearbox on the back of the printer. There is a spring inside the head which actually holds the tools in place by use of the T bar. The cable pulling systems is only used to release the tools. Be aware of the force necessary to pull this cable. I am barely able to pull it my self! Friction is your worst enemy in this system. Both for the cable pulling systems as for the kinematic coupling. The system shown in this video does not work. Please look at the more modern video which shows a different T bar for locking the tools. This T bar doesn't have any friction but is more fragile. I also use some friction reducing tricks in the cable pulling systems but I haven't made a video with these fixes. Theoretically it is better than the e3D solution. It is however surprisingly difficult to get this to work. Yesterday I printed my first three color print. That is how long it took between this video and getting a somewhat problem free system. This is one hell of a project!

@@FrankyieFrank Thanks a lot for the info!!! It is going to be a while before i get to the tool changing part. I am currently just finalizing the XY motion system. It is a crosbar like yours but with rails and 2 motors pr axis instead of the shaft from side to side. A little ekstra challenge having to lift the tools out of the way, but deffinetely the ultimate sulution compared to a corexy with long belts IMO. Yeah a reliable tool changing mechanism isn't easy to design... even just a basic 3D printer is hard to design well! :P

@@DannerD3H That is going to be a beast of a 3D printer! Some advice regarding the XY motion system. Stepper motors can only deliver torque when they are not at there desired position. Therefore a stepper motor 3D printers always has some position errors which is visible in the finished print. The best way to reduce these errors is to reduce the friction in the XY systems as much as possible so the steppers are closer to there desired position. Again, friction is everything. Fun fact about the elevator system for my tools. It has a double function. Of course it gets the tools out of the way, but it also lifts the cables of the unused tools above the cables of the used tool. Cable management is brilliantly simple and compact this way.

@@FrankyieFrank ​ Haha yeah it will be a beast :P Yes Steppers have their limitations.. I may look into odrive, but will try with regular nema23's for the XY first. I will be using linear MGN12 rails for almost everything including the XY system so friction is gonna be as low as can be. Will also use bearings with metal shields instead of rubber seals. but thanks for the heads up! Didn't considder that functionality of the elevator xD Hope to see mor videos on this printer from you! :)

@@DannerD3H I will make some more videos in the future. For now my focus is getting the machine working properly. :-)

Ik moet zeggen dat ik daar nog nooit last van gehad heb. Kruipgedrag is niet iets wat ik zou verwachten bij staal. Bij een motor met gebrekkig koppel onderin krijg krijg je mogelijk ook het effect dat de koppeling heel vroeg aan lijkt te grijpen omdat de motor niet door de koppeling heen kan trekken. Het is moeilijk hier iets over te zeggen.

Graag gedaan!

Thanks! I am still testing this machine. So for now, no more videos. The system is more problematic than I thought. Only last weekend I was finally able to pickup toolheads with enough repetitive accuracy. Using kinematics couplings vertically is not such a good idea.

En ze houden ons van de straat. Al hoewel.... :P Meer tips en adviezen zijn te vinden op www.mobyletteforum.com/

That happens with 8 year old video's. I removed the dead link to avoid further confusion.

@@FrankyieFrank ok, would u send it again, plz?

@@endothermicexothermic4051 Sorry. I have no idea where the schematic is. I don't think I have it any more.

@@FrankyieFrank Ok

Hi David. There is no damper on the intake of this engine. This original. That makes it sound so rough. It used to be loud as hell! For some reason the intake sound is becoming more silent as the tuning of of the engine gets better. In the beginning there where a lot of tuning issues. I used to scare the crap out of people in the city. That was really bad. I am glad that's over. It is still loud though. No longer so loud that my ears are getting damaged. This moped has a horn. I don't know why. I never have to use it. It is a pity that you cannot see me operate the throttle. This engine easily runs 40km/h at 1/4 throttle which is ridiculous when the top speed is only 55km/h at max. This moped is weird!

+andreiruiz143 That happens with old videos. I fixed the link in the description.

+Frank Franky thnks:)but the transistor gets too hot

+andreiruiz143 If you haven't done already, mount the the transistor on a metal surface for cooling. However, this schematic is definitely not the most efficient design.

Frank Franky wat is het doel van de groene led die er boven hangt?