Ender 3 V2  Manta M5P+CB1 Install
35:06
Solving Problems With 3D Printing
10:19
Пікірлер
@releasedmike
@releasedmike 14 минут бұрын
Have you got the file for the bl touch mount been looking online and can’t find it
@charlesdelajoux4951
@charlesdelajoux4951 56 минут бұрын
The gun ring is designed to suspend it from a spring and allow you to work with the gun in your hand without having to carry its weight.
@kevintipcorn6787
@kevintipcorn6787 Күн бұрын
The z tilt config example was a big help, the official documentation left me clueless and most of the stuff in the first few pages of search results for me was all CoreXY related. It was a big help to see an example config for a dual z cartesian printer, even if its not using leadscrews.
@oldowl4290
@oldowl4290 2 күн бұрын
Where do you buy the silver spoons? All I can find are steel tube black ones at Harbor Freight. Anyone got the SKU number?
@H2Dwoat
@H2Dwoat 2 күн бұрын
Hi, any updates since you did this video?
@anthonyaviles8665
@anthonyaviles8665 5 күн бұрын
I have a cr10v2 I’m planing to do the motherboard upgrade
@danielp.4675
@danielp.4675 6 күн бұрын
Straight forward. Nice video.
@patrickmccreanor
@patrickmccreanor 8 күн бұрын
I am in the process of completing this mod but wondered how you managed the cables to the Z motors? I was thinking of using the v channels on the inside of the 4020 extrusion, so it would run under where the inner carriage wheels would pass.
@vbared
@vbared 6 күн бұрын
Hi Patrick, Thank you for commenting. I put my z cables into the extrusion channel behind the z belts and then covered them using some channel covers. There is plenty of space so long as the wires used are the same type as the original stepper cables. Best of luck with your mods :)
@Evilslayer73
@Evilslayer73 9 күн бұрын
This is the easiest method i found on the internet about centering theprint bed it work very well !! No need to reflash the firmware! very cool it work flawlessly on my Geeetech A10!thanks a lot!👍👍👍👍✊✊✊
@vbared
@vbared 6 күн бұрын
Thank you,friend, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods :)
@shoes121255
@shoes121255 13 күн бұрын
Do you have a link to the check valve you used on your air line? I have 1/2 line but want to make sure i get one that will work. Ive heard some clog up with media
@Rr100Swat
@Rr100Swat 14 күн бұрын
Wow speechless
@vbared
@vbared 13 күн бұрын
Hello friend, Thank you for your encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your projects.
@anthonyaviles8665
@anthonyaviles8665 17 күн бұрын
You have the part number for the heat block and nozzle from e3d
@shibby22
@shibby22 18 күн бұрын
Could I pull this off with a vm?
@zulelectronic
@zulelectronic 18 күн бұрын
Thanks bro
@superbadmofo1
@superbadmofo1 18 күн бұрын
Hi Vic, great videos keep it up, Ive notice that you've used both micro swiss NG and the other model... I would like to purchase one in the near futrure. Based on you experience wich do you recomend and why.??
@sineziodeluca3871
@sineziodeluca3871 18 күн бұрын
I’m from southern Brazil, and I’m planning to upgrade my Anycubic Kobra Max 3D printer. My goal is to install the Manta5P motherboard, along with the CB1 module and TMC2209 drivers. During my research, I realized that detailed information about installing this board is scarce. In fact, your video was the only one that provided a clear and detailed step-by-step guide. I know it will be quite a challenge since I’ll be using some new components. I want to thank you for creating this content, as it was the only one KZbin showed me with relevant details for the modifications I plan to make. One of my biggest concerns is about the length of the power cables for my 24V 500W power supply and the components such as motors, CanBUS, and sensors. I’m unsure if the cables will be long enough to reuse and have questions about where to properly connect each one.
@MrTrevoraustin
@MrTrevoraustin 19 күн бұрын
Link to files doesn't work, just refreshes the page
@jaimedominguez7629
@jaimedominguez7629 19 күн бұрын
Great job doing this video... you have the patience to Explain the way it is... jaime here from puerto Rico God bless you!!!!
@rpetty
@rpetty 22 күн бұрын
Nicely done
@zihankarim5041
@zihankarim5041 25 күн бұрын
after finishing glass blast, do u apply clearcoat to final protection? or just leave like that?
@vbared
@vbared 24 күн бұрын
It depends if it's a factory fresh look then leave it as is and it will oxidize over time but if you want to maintain the look then just use some clear caliper paint so that can withstand heat.
@flethacker
@flethacker 25 күн бұрын
why need for a fridge if you have a cold air climate and snow outside ?
@vbared
@vbared 24 күн бұрын
Thank you for commenting, we don't keep the inside temperature of our house at 32 and didn't want to move our food outside.
@darioesquivel611
@darioesquivel611 26 күн бұрын
excelente maestro muy bueno
@vbared
@vbared 24 күн бұрын
Gracias amigo :)
@yoko180
@yoko180 27 күн бұрын
I think I have done it before by jacking up my car and then placing the tire under the car with a piece of wood on the inside edge of the tire and then lower the vehicle onto the wood using the car’s weight to break the bead.
@vbared
@vbared 24 күн бұрын
Yeah, for sure it can also be done that way.
@leebigelow8373
@leebigelow8373 27 күн бұрын
next time, drill the hole all the way through the board, use something to back the hole in your vice, then use another washer and socket to drive the pump cup seal back out of the wood, then you can use the same board, and dont have to cut and break it out.
@6xRedDevilx9
@6xRedDevilx9 Ай бұрын
Great video . Thanks!
@jjacello
@jjacello Ай бұрын
Once again it’s Victor, not auto corrected Victoria. Nuts.
@jjacello
@jjacello Ай бұрын
Hi Victoria Working on my conversion as we speak. Do you share your board mounting adapter? I thought I’d ask before rolling my own. One hole on the 4.2.7 or 4.2.2 seems to line up with the original board at the micro SD and USB slot location, but it doesn’t appear that you use it. I plan on using a 30 pin breakout board for the initial attempt, since it’s easy to switch connections. Thanks for all your excellent postings.
@catleblanc1229
@catleblanc1229 Ай бұрын
graet video seem like someting most people should be able to do don't think I would bother cleaning boilts that's just me
@tomaszzajakala3076
@tomaszzajakala3076 Ай бұрын
Hi Victor I wonder what you think about BTTech SKR 3 VL and newest drivers EZ5160 - I have in my mind a few different ideas for upgrading my CR10S Pro V2 - the best performance - how to achieve?
@riccardodipietro4400
@riccardodipietro4400 Ай бұрын
Hi Victor Sorry to bother I recently attempted this mod however the firmware does not flash to the board or the firmware is wrong I am unsure what to do , i am using all the same parts Do you have any suggestions? Thanks
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hello Riccardo, No problem, I'm glad to help. The issue could be the board inside the display. Creality uses 3 different types and knowing which one you have is important to successfully flash the firmware. The link below will help you identify the correct settings for the compiler tool and method to flash the display itself. github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/tree/Ender3V2S1-Released/display%20assets
@محمداحمد-ب5ي6ل
@محمداحمد-ب5ي6ل Ай бұрын
شكرن فيكتور
@treslongwell1332
@treslongwell1332 Ай бұрын
nice. What grit blasted?
@carrolbrooks2143
@carrolbrooks2143 Ай бұрын
You'd be amazed at how fast the vinyl will peel if you just soak the bottle, in warm water, in the same pitcher you used to soak the label off.😊
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hi Carrol, Thank you for commenting and sharing your wisdom. I hadn't thought about using heat to soften the vinyl and its adhesive.
@lukekallod
@lukekallod Ай бұрын
Great video, thanks for the help
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hello Luke, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods.
@sevciu1
@sevciu1 Ай бұрын
Building on Victor's great work, I might suggest changing the code to allow for Auto Home when the printer starts up. This avoids accidentally moving the head outside of mechanical limits and damaging the belts or something else. In the file named Configuration_adv.h find the line < //#define STARTUP_COMMANDS "M17 Z" > and change it to be < #define STARTUP_COMMANDS "G28" >. Ignore characters "<" and ">" Cheers Sever
@SergioMartinez-qc7gv
@SergioMartinez-qc7gv Ай бұрын
Excellent tip so thank you for sharing your wisdom! I’m about to work on my Yaris tomorrow morning and this tip will certainly be helpful. Especially since I don’t have the recommended bolts to pry the drum out.
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hi Sergio, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your repairs.
@birdzynest
@birdzynest Ай бұрын
what size compressor do you use? how many CFM @ 90psi?
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hello friend, Thank you for commenting. My compressor is the Ingersoll Rand 60 gallon with the SS5 pump. It delivers 18.1 CFM at 90 PSI.
@birdzynest
@birdzynest Ай бұрын
How did you determine where to drill the 2 holes for the HF intake port? you must have had some type of template printed out?
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hello friend, yes, one of the STL files is a template for drilling the lower holes
@SMOKE3104
@SMOKE3104 Ай бұрын
I was tracking all the way up to the "ls /dev/serial/by-id/*" command. It says "No such file or directory" any ideas on what I could have missed?
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hi Smoke, try a different USB to Micro USB cable and make sure that the one you play to use supports data transmission. It sounds like the cable that isn't working is a charge only (lacks the green and white data wires) cable or you could have a bad data cable. I've had new data cables not work straight out of the package.
@SMOKE3104
@SMOKE3104 Ай бұрын
@@vbared I have mine in the printer already. I had to wipe and restart because I had issues with the ui not working. Figure I would start from scratch. So I need to have it connected via usb?
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
@@SMOKE3104 Yes, that ls/dev is a request to confirm that the Raspberry Pi can talk to the printer. If you don't get a response that include the serial address but an error of some kind then it's most likely the cable.
@SMOKE3104
@SMOKE3104 Ай бұрын
@@vbared Oh, yea, this is on a manta m8p board. I guess that's why I was confused. I think I'm going to disconnect, and reconnect everything.
@swan9680
@swan9680 Ай бұрын
Brilliant !
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Thank you friend, I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your repairs.
@chhansen9813
@chhansen9813 Ай бұрын
$430? That is HILARIOUS!!!!!!!!
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Yes, $430 is an expensive upfront cost but all tire changes after are all free.
@bcarden133
@bcarden133 Ай бұрын
That "little bracket" that screws into the block serves a very important purpose as a strain relief, so that if your cable ever happens to snag on anything it doesn't instantly rip the wires out of the heater and thermistor. Removing it is not a smart move.
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Yes, you're 100% correct, if you can find a way to keep it then I would. Thankfully, I haven't had any problems since the small channel on the heatsink fan mount keeps it from moving and it's also clipped to the bowden tube so it can't twist below that clip.
@jashawnwesley9126
@jashawnwesley9126 Ай бұрын
good info, but u used the same part and cleaned it 3 times. each diff grit. so it came out great. now im wondering if i should atleast do a 2 step process. i dont think the 170 will give that finish alone. let alone move deep surface rust? 🤔
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hello friend, thank you for commenting and encouragement. Yes, I've found that using 80 grit glass beads to remove the dirt and oxidation first followed up with 170-325 US Sieve glass beads aka (extra fine glass beads) produces an amazing even and shiny finish.
@vladimirsabo811
@vladimirsabo811 Ай бұрын
Chtěl bych vám poděkovat, za vaše videa bez nich bych jen těžko správně nastavil svoji úpravu Sermoon D1 ze které je dnes Sermoon core xy s Manta 5 a CB1+ TFT monitor, nebylo to snadné, ale jste jediný kdo takto podrobně ukázal jak postupovat, znovu Děkuji
@davewilliams8050
@davewilliams8050 Ай бұрын
Do you have any more of Y-axis heat sink covers? I have put a small heat sink on my E3 V2 Y-axis stepper motor and it doesn't begin to resolve the heat issue. You Amazon store seems to be closed.
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Hi Dave, Thank you for commenting and your interest in the heat dissipating Y housing. Please email me [email protected] your shipping details and let me know the email address associated with your PayPal account so I can send you a payment request when your package is ready to ship.
@Cpt_Adama
@Cpt_Adama Ай бұрын
Lots of work, but the results paid off. I maybe would have applied some paint in the logos, maybe the same red that was on there originally.
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Yeah, painting the textured logo red would've looked great. Thank you for commenting :)
@lleague9222
@lleague9222 Ай бұрын
Interesting. I've never heard of vapor blasting. Get you some dental tools from Harbor Freight to help with weeding.
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
Thank you for commenting, yeah, the process was interesting to me as well. The great thing is that putting together this simple system allows anyone to achieve a factory finish on soft metals, etch class, degrease and remove contamination on many materials. The big ticket item unfortunately is the air supply.
@brunodherrera
@brunodherrera Ай бұрын
do you know if is there anything better than this for this printer model nowadays?
@vbared
@vbared Ай бұрын
HI Bruno, Thank you for commenting. I haven't purchased any of the latest larger formant printers but about a year ago started using an Ender 3 Max Neo. It has very close to the same build volume at the CR10S Pro V2 but comes with a 32bit silent control board that allows you to install Miguel's Professional Firmware or Klipper without too much fuss.