love the Alice in Chains shirt. the top is looking good so far. i love the look of red cedars. so much color variation and warm without being too yellow. smirdex is pretty similar to 3M Cubitron, which is pretty good stuff. as the ceramic pieces wear down, they break into more sharp pieces sorta making a finer sandpaper. a thin deep pour epoxy might work better for sealing up voids in some situations. heat accelerates the epoxy cure time and will usually cause it to yellow if it is thick at all. a 30 minute epoxy will become a 2 minute epoxy if you heat it to the point of being able to freely pour it. on pale woods or woods where yellows will show like maple, i've had some bad experiences with heating to thin epoxy. not sure if the yellowing happens to all epoxies when heat thinned but it has for all the ones i've tried, depending on the amount of heat. now i keep a bit of thin deep pour epoxy around for that sorta thing. pour it in a thin stream and the bubbles will naturally pop for the most part. a thought on laminating softwoods like cedar, redwood, douglas fir, hemlock and pine. if you hollow the faces of your boards along their length before you glue them up, the top and bottom edges will glue tightly together. you don't need much of a hollow, just a couple thousandths. softwood compresses pretty well in clamps and the edges will compress that couple thousandths putting the middle of the joint in contact. the result is the edges being under compression and the center under tension making a very strong and stable joint that you won't need to fill. i use a finely set hand plane with the blade radiused for a few passes down the center of the length of the slab's edge. then a pass or two toward the edge, but not letting the blade actually cut to the edge, to feather it out. then come back with a couple passes of 120 grit glued to a piece of plywood taking car to not round the corners. that will ensure the edges are in plane and not burnished which can cause glue adhesion issues. it adds around 45 seconds of work per face for me, so that can add up quickly if you've got a lot of thin boards making up your slab. probably more work than you want to put in on most furniture, but a good technique to have in the arsenal. i've been doing it this way since i was taught it back in the 90s in school. as long as I didn't have some squirly grain issues, i've never had a glueline failure. not a professional woodworker or anything, but i've built quite a bit of furniture over the years and slabbing up cheap softwood is one of my favorite methods.

Would love to see your hand plane collection and how you sharpen

(I am also in NZ) It has been like pulling teeth getting my eldest two diagnosed as teenagers (the gp told us my 2nd eldest didn't have adhd because she could sit still in a 5 min doc visit). Need to still start the process for the younger two and unfortunately can't afford the cost for diagnosis for either my wife or I (although we see the same signs now in ourselves)

I really enjoyed this. What I would say is this, do both kinds of content. I feel like you have 3 different kinds of viewer, the short snappy 15-20 min kind, people are interested in more indepth stuff and then finally people like me who dont mind either. 40 mins to an hour is not that long these days, as I said on Facebook, most of my viewing starts around 40-50 mins. If its interesting I'll make time time - even watch 3+ hours at a go (or break it up). Your audience will find itself, so do the content you want, not what you think they want. Its better to be passionate and interested than just another guy. Its like being in a band, play what you want how you want, and if people like it, they will come, if not at least you enjoyed it.

I have the corded version of this saw. Couple suggestions. Use the clamps. Your workpiece was moving on the table. If thats happening its likely that your track is also not stable - and if it moves 2 mm you're going to bind & burn. Secondly - and again - just a suggestion... but i would not move that saw backwards on that track. No riving knife and no clamps means if that track shifts a mm - that saw is gonna pop back up towards you off the track. with the fast break on it you may be ok but it'll make a mess out of your track /splinter guard and prolly damage your workpiece. The weight of the saw - if you are starting it on a portion of the track that is not directly over the workpiece will cause the track to bow slightly - and its enough to reduce the friction on those rubber strips & the track may wander. Again - using the clamps will eliminate this.

My shop is the same way. My thoughts go the same way. I totally know the struggle.

It's having a dis-ease

Very nice. Can I ask why you made the decision to switch to the larger plunge router from the trim router when doing the second board?

Apparently Edward likes a coat rack

No need to apologise, life gets in the way sometimes. It is good to know that you are OK. Greetings from Adelaide South Australia

You really wouldn't want to use pocket holes on projects bigger than 1.5 inches. Do you even get pocket hole screws that long for 3" Boards?

Loving it. Looking forward to Part II. Thanks!

I have the corded version of this saw. I switched to a Freud blade and my results have improved. My Makita blade came from China and would burn on the inside surface.

Great video! Appreciate all the details and problem solving!

Yep, had the same problem on 40mm oak worktops (finished using a router in the end) and had better hope on 35mm soft wood doors but no such luck. Was using the standard 2.2mm kerf on the 18V version. Annoying for £300+ of kit that was otherwise very good on sheet material like you say.

Another excellent episode. Enjoying your channel very much. Thanks!

Super thin kerf blades have a tendency to go walk abouts. You have said you’d consider getting a thicker kerf. But also consider fewer teeth too. The finish quality may be a little lower quality but it’s a lot less stress on the tool. As well the track deducts a few mm from the depth of cut

I have the same saw. The blade on mine was not in line with the base. It should have a very slight toe-in at the front. It was a real tedious process but once adjusted it cuts way better. You might want to check yours before purchasing a new blade. The Tall Carpenter has a video explaining it.

Reading yhe manual prior to use does help. :)

The cutting depth stated by Makita is without a rail, you must add 4 mm to your cutting depth when you use it on the rail

Clamp your rail with the rail clamps when cutting thick workpieces

How about using some clamps which usually belong to the rail or at least are optional (okay I know it from Festool) for attachment and better alignment the same way? Will certainly straiten up the cutline and maybe prevent further deflection. And as far as I know a plungesaw can ...well plunge into the material wherever you like where a railsaw´s blade and engine are attached to the I call it groundplate so you can begin cutting only at the edge of stuff. But for some of cours very well reasons which I just don`t know confusion seems to be hardwired to powertools all over the world.

In Europe they're called plunge saws to add extra confusion 😂

Great points and very useful, thanks! Its very helpful while still trying to thrash out my own list...

Habit #2... Ouch! But true...

Great stuff Glenn! Inspiring and educational. Thank you.

Well worth the listen. Thanks Glenn.

Useful pointers especially on time use and decisiveness, Glenn. Thanks.

Passion is not expertise! Wow. Watching again to take notes! Excellent!

Looking forward to this, stay lucky

Great stuff. Really enjoyed seeing your planning, making little errors and adjusting, and then a finished product. That router profile ended up a nice touch

I’ve watched a few videos of yours now and it’s all been thoroughly enjoyable. I’m a carpenter (builder) with a love for joinery in my spare time and your making all the right moves

Absolutely loved the video mate. I'm also new to joinery only been doing it for just over a year so im here to learn with you. And for your first mortise and tenon that was great. Would love to see you make a wooden mallet though it was the first thing i made and i use it in almost all of my projects. I even use it for my chiselling. And to make it slightly heavier i laminated the head with lead sinkers and sand in the middle to stop them moving around. Also just wondering i love that file where did you get it from? Im also in NZ

Very nice work, better than I would be able to do for sure!

awesome work, much jealous of some of your machinery. We're always harder on ourselves - seeing all the imperfections that no one else cares about.

An excellent job, how much have you learnt ? ... shed loads, keep it up and looking forward to the journey ... look after your self, see you again soon (UK Yorkshire)

Bit of a tip, cut out the bulk of the wood with a spade bit.

Thank you for spelling Rimu on the screen. I hear other New Zealanders call out that wood in their work and never could figure out how to spell it. Now you have me determined to cut a double tenon. Never made one before! Keep making videos. Love your channel!! -Stan, from Texas.

if you screw the clamp bck a bit the handle will toggle over and lock in to place so you don't have to hold on to it and it will hold the work better

Check out Hultafors chisels, along with old Sandvik.

Did you get any kanuka ?

Posture is of importance, just like with western saws. The reason your cuts are wandering a bit is because the further down you get, you change the angle of the blade ever so slightly. A good method of beating that, besides changing position as your arm is going down, is by scoring all your cutlines with a knife and just have a gentle, shallow pass with the saw on all 4 sides. This tend to keep the saw in its tracks much better. It takes quite a bit longer, but it will help , especially when you are starting out with these saws.

Those old stanley chisels have better steal than all the other chisels in the video..

It is nice to see Narex chisels from our small Central European Czech Republic in other side of globe :-) I use it too and I like it because good cost/quality ratio.

So it's 1000 times easier to track the line if you keep the saw in line with the wood. Hard to explain for me in text but example: the saw and the wood shouldn't make a T but should be more like this I\. The I being the board and the \ being the saw. With it in the orientation, you can easily move left or right to keep the saw on track with the line. It actually becomes self guiding as the whole blade sets in the kerf. I hope that makes sense

when the cut is off on the backside it is usually because you are pulling the saw toward the opposite side on the front. so your cuts were wandering right, so the saw was probably a little to the left of your line on the front. if the saw always cuts to one side like that it might be the saw itself. could be set poorly, more common with the rip teeth. if you cut down the front angling the blade so your kerf is wider it will make it a bit easier to cut straight with less than perfect technique. having more of the blade in the wood really helps with tracking the cut. ryobas also tend to follow the grain on rips and that can really make them feel squirly until you get used to it. a quick guide block with a magnet in it is also great for making perfectly square crosscut and miters. because the blade is flexible, it wants to follow the guide much better than a western saw and it leaves a hell of a nice finish on a crosscut. i am not a fan of ruitools saws. they are okay for Chinese manufactured knockoffs but far from what i've experience with even brands made in Japan like Zetsaw, Gyokucho or Suizan. those saws are fairly inexpensive hardpoints. most ryobas have a set to them, though it is pretty minimal and on the crosscut it is achieved with the tooth geometry rather than setting the teeth out the way western saws are usually set. the rip teeth should have a mild set, if they do not then the wider crosscut teeth will mar up the cut as it passes through the rip. lay the plate flat on a piece of wood and pull it. if it scratches, it has set. it is pretty common for cheap stamped pull saw blades to accidentally gain a bit of set and cause pulling on rips or marring on flushcut opperations.

Two sayings I learned as a child (1) "You get what you pay for". and (2) "It only cast .5c more to go first class".

If you're doing wood working, do wood working, don't try to BS us into subscribing to your self-help YT channel.

I’ve watched a lot of woodworking channels, and various other maker-type KZbinrs, so my advice is going to be specifically for a ‘maker’ type channel, just based on what I’ve found appealing (or not). I hope it helps; I mean this all in a constructive way…unlike some of the ruder people I see commenting here. 😅 smh First, it is good to have multiple cameras, of course, but if you’re just having a chat with your viewers, such as in this episode, I’d just avoid all the bouncing around from one pov to another. Reserve that for when you are working on a project and it needs to be shown from different angles so people can actually see what’s being done. Second: I’m not trying to stifle your uh…creativity, but I’d lose the little cutaways to random images that I’m quite certain are AI generated. They’re kind of…dorky (sorry, but with the exception of a certain comedian, I’ve never seen anyone do this in a way I consider ‘successful’ [read: not awkward or annoying]) and I’m also guessing you have no idea about the controversy behind AI image generation; I think the majority of users of generators don’t. If that’s the case, I would just avoid it altogether. If you DO know of and understand the controversy, and are using it anyways, then presumably you are an AI bro out to give 2D artists the middle finger and are willing to alienate them and anyone who sympathizes with them. You’re of course welcome to do that, since it’s a free Internet (sort of) but…for me personally, I’ll avoid a channel I see using AI generated content. Whatever I’m there to learn can be learned from 20 other channels that don’t offend my ethics. So, just a heads up. Lastly, as for the music, I’d keep the volume it’s set at low and pick one particular type or genre of music to use and stick to it. I absolutely recommend against using anything besides solely instrumental. Saw another new-ish channel yesterday doing some work with miscellaneous tunes on full blast, even when he was talking, and the feedback he got over it was not positive. Don’t use it when you talk (something you seem to already know) and don’t have the volume of it set any higher than your voice gets when you’re speaking normally. Transition from speaking volume to loud music can be terribly jarring and as annoying as a commercial break. Also be aware some people (not me) will outright hate any use of music in a maker’s video. So prepare yourself for some carrying on about it if you do choose to use it. Anyways, that’s my constructive criticism; the things I did like were your opening (looking around the shop and then organizing), exit (letting us see you turning off the lights, closing the doors), and I also think you have a good idea, talking about the creative process and mental health. I agree that lists are good. Organizing and the creative process is also good for mental health. These are all go-to’s for me as well. Good luck with your endeavor. I’m sure KZbin will continue to rec your channel due to my usual interests and having commented, so see you around!

I tried those Narex chisels but I found them a bit soft compared to the german made and also not expensive MHG chisels.