more watch videos please! your content is very informative and relaxing, awesome post!

Como lo conseguiste nuevo?

Here’s what I need. I need you make that reel. Plus, make an UL telescopic rod for it. Strong like the daiwa b.b.b.’s. Then make a make an identical UL casting rod for my bfs reel. I’m buying the whole setup from you!!!!

Nice review! Looks well made!

I thought that said Uzi

Dude, you are awesome.

Hey mate, which fishing group are you refering to? Im assuming its a BFS facebook group?

Nothing similar from Bass Pro Shop, and skipping the shipping issues? Also - back up the camera angle just a smidge. 😉

Closing the bail manually or by reeling makes no difference when it comes to line twist. According to some, using the latter method increases the possibility that a loose loop of line gets trapped on the spool, which in turn can cause wind knots. Maybe that's true more so now than with the older-generation reels because of the increase in length of the spools - more windings next to each other (going up and down) are required and the possibility of a line loop or loose line to create havoc during the cast increases.

Nikon 1 lenses have appalling rates of failure and 99.9% of all the failures are from two problems. 1) A teeny tiny gear made from cheap Chinese plastic has failed on nearly all the lenses that show the same symptom ( super dark in the finder, photos are exposed at f16).... 2) A ribbon cable made fron cheap Chinese plastic fails on any zoom lens that... erm... zooms. In the case of N1... the N stands for Nadir and the 1 stands for number 1. Nikon should be ashamed of themselves Nickel and Diming such a great and specialist camera system into the ground.

Got one off walmart online for 15 bucks! Mine looks way different cus its all metal which is wierd but hopefully it fishes as good as it looks, i wanna try the daiwa goldcast or the kast king brutus next

The new system is imo superior. With the old Cardinal and Mitchell reels, there were some issues. Breaking bail springs - the Cardinals therefore already have two of em. Line wrapping around the bail arm, stuck line rollers, and the hard impact of the flipping bail are others. And you have to reel in for flipping the bail, not ideal for groundfishing with natural baits for example. First change came in the late 70s, the overlapping skirted spool. Before that, the line was easily trapped under the spool, with the skirted spool design, this was much more unlikely to happen. This led to a different rotor design , from a bell shape to the two outreaching arms holding the bail. There are some reels which kept the bail stopper as it was, the Mitchell 906 for example, but there are quite large levers working, requiring heavy springs, causing much wear. The back then more common L-shaped bailspring and the bail flipping lever, that didn't require a seperate spring any more, were less parts, shorter levers and could be fully enclosed against dirt. Just the bailsprings wore out fast. So next big change in the late 80s was the implementation of a coil spring, that didn't wore out anymore and is nearly indestructible. Spools became higher and large arbor for better casting capabilities in the 90s, requiring even higher bail holding arms. The stamped sheet metal bail flipping lever of the 80s with its turning motion was changed to a wire type, that just lifts, Line rollers have a bigger diameter and often a ball bearing, The bail arms were rounded, so the line could not be trapped around them. And due to the improvement of materials the nowadays reels are again as lightweight as the 60/70s Mitchells and some even lighter. So what do we miss? The sound of the flipping bail, the easyness with which it flips (what has also disadvantages as accidental flipping) and the lovely design. What did we get? Supersmooth but powerful, superlight reels that work flawlessly, with a shitload of ball bearings. Is the modern system cheaper? Absolutely. Does it work better? Also yes. Will it last as long as the old ones? The bail system definitely yes, the rest of the reel most likely not. Except the Spools, those plastic spools of the old Cardinals were quite known for becoming grey by UV-rays and for breaking. So your reel with the bent bail arm is the reinforced large knob spool 90s replica anyway... I also still fish my 60s-80s reels and i fish brandnew ones. Though the new ones are far better, i just see no reason to replace all the lovely still fine working old reels.

I never worried about line twist. I learned to close by hand to save the reel from the wear of slamming the bail closed with the handle. I think of a car door the day you buy it compared to 5 years later.

Reels of today much like guns of today are made of plastic, polymer, and aluminum components, where guns of yesterday were made of 3 things, steel, stainless steel and wood. That Cardinal was built to last, show me the Revo in 40 years!

That's a $39 reel bro, what do you expect? That's a kids closed face "underspin reel" Get you a grown ups open face underspin....

Stellar video. It’s so rare for me to see a video that makes me think. I grew up using both of these types of reels. I completely wore out the gears in my zebco in the 70’s. Having accidentally closed my bail while casting on occasion I’ve heard the snap and watched my bubble fly over lakes onto the shore. A locking bail certainly helped prevent that whether I was aware at the time or not. Modern reels have a tension mechanism that keeps the bail open. It of course can be triggered by reeling or by hand easily. I have developed the habit of triggering it by hand to control the distance of my casts and I shudder to think of not having the ability to do so. As for the reason for the change the browning spinning reels come to mind as a possibility. The bail locks kept breaking until they stopped making reels. I dropped some serious coin on them at the time only to find out they were not “the best there is”. The new reel design whether done for cost cutting or not is indispensable to my way of fishing. 👍

I own a V1 and a J5 I love both cameras, but I dont bother with the dedicated lenses i use vintage glass on mine and for a couple of hundred dollars i have obtained some nice prime lenses and some nice zoom lenses, i did have to buy adapters i run F mount PK, M42 and CY mount lenses, you will have no light meter with the V1 but you will with the J5, i use an external light meter on the V1. So dont worry if you are on a budget like mine.

I appreciate the care you gave to your reels so I don't want you to think I'm being critical or a know-it-all. Have you listened to the sound the bail makes as it gets flipped? It sounds like a small ball on a spring that seats in each position (open or closed). In essence it is a bail lock of a different sort and not necessarily inferior.

Weigh the reels there should be a few ounces difference by getting rid of the metal parts

wish I still had my Cardinal 3 and Mitchell 300! Best reels ever!

What I'm looking at is where they placed the drag tensioner

What i would think is, They wanted more lightweight and less parts to mass produce. Perhaps also for rust/corrosion. But im more on the line of Why would they sell you 1 Reel when they can sell you the same one again and again and buy parts for. Either way Its a Reel Brain teaser hahaha.

J-braid is amazing, but it’s soo hard to find 6# in the 300m spool

I've had two V1s, a J1 and a J2. They are truly delightful cameras and abominably unreliable. Two of my friends have had them as well, and one of them had the same problems I had -- lens failures etc -- while the other had no problems. If I could get a reliable 10-30 lens, I would put two of the bodies back into use immediately. I could put the J2 with either lens attached into one jacket pocket and the other into the other pocket, or the V1 with the 10-30 into one pocket and the 30-110 into the other. I agree with what you say about colour. too; and. despite lack of stabilisation, I found both cameras reasonably easy to use for street, landscape and family gathering photography. The card reader in my J2 died, and I managed to get a second hand board from the US and fitted it, but the flash was dead. Meanwhile I got the first V1 which, sadly, was stolen. Both 10-30 lenses died. Nikon Australia really didn't want to know about that. For a while, before I got the 30-110. I had a screw in 2x converter to attach to the shorter lens, which gave me surprisingly good results for $20 or so from Japan. If they made reliable lenses for the system again, I would rush to get one; if they made a V5, like the J5 with EVF I'd rush faster. So much going for it, so much just not quite right.

How do you compare this to Ace Hawk AG Venom?

Numder 1 way to tell if an angler is truly experienced and knowledgeable. #1......he will close the bail manually. It will save wear and tear on the reel long-term. NOBODY wants to hear a bail clang any louder than it has to be. Kids do this that were not taught better. Most eventually learn better. A lot of higher quality reels must be closed manually. There's a line twist every time when the bail is fliped with the handle. A lot of bad reviews are given by inexperienced anglers because a spinning reel will not flip easily automatically. I've seen many. I've just bought this reel in a 2000 size and was curious to see what others put it on. Mine is going on a Finwick medium fast light rod . Im done.

Interesting Bought a few of these from Ali not rebaged as Dr slick. They are pretty decent for what they are compared to Abel and other expensive nippers

Bottom feeder!

I buy ugly sticks as I had four kids and it is just habit. I try to get the best reel I can afford, but no hundred dollar reels for me. As for line, it is very important, to include a mono lead at the end. We all fish the same and life is good. I edited this to also say, take your reel apart and lube it regularly. Then you know what you have.

Nice review! Looks like a nice braid cutter!! Thanks!

What Is the Squiggly stuff that you light to start the chimney? I usually use newspaper but it doesn't always work the first time.

Would you use it any other way except steak?

There are a couple other brands out there with clear plastic windows. Mightr be nice to be able to see what lure is on the rod.

What kind of rod is that?

Interesting! That's a useful accessory! Thanks for sharing

Thinking about buying one of those right now

Way to go all in! Do you use the system for professional work?

That’s BFS country right there! Bam next time throw a natural color spoon just saying 😅

Take up another hobby ,fishing isn't your sport.

I think mine was called Zebco Legacy 11TL combo from 1996 Walmart for $8 each work good to now. The price us still like the cheeper stuff still available nice and cheep

1:18 "...there's very little depth of field because it's a small lens, small sensor, small aperture... everything." This does not compute... Small sensors with small apertures generate huge depth of field. that's what makes them feel more like instant cameras.

I’ve owned a v3 for 3years, I need lenses 😩 I am in Nigeria, imagine converting dollar to our currency it’s real crazy getting this lenses

I'm sorry my friend but I'd take the 33 all day long!❤

Where fo I buy these from, is it just from the Mule website? If do I can buy from there and have a friend brine it over to Europe for me. Love the divider side and REALLY love the foam side, seems a perfect size for my ultra light kit/setup

Me and my 5 yr old are new to fishing. I bought this for him because it is light. It reels up counterclockwise. Why? Is there a way to switch this around?

I hand make wooden fishing lures. I put a waterslide decal on almost all mine... and mine aren't even for sale!

I have both and the Pfleuger is HANDS DOWN a better product. That being said, the 33 Gold Trigger-spin it's a great, affordable little reel.

I've been fishing for over 40 years and still don't understand why someone would need a reverse when you have a drag system. Or all you need to do is push the button and let the line out. A lot of the manufacturers are removing that because it's just another area for water and dirt to get in to the housing.

I saw a reddish brown tall device holding your chimney what is that?

I think the rod is the most important and it is the hardest to find the right one for the job. The reel doesn’t influence as much.