Offer these coils as a 12 volt trigger signal as well so people with aftermarket stand alone ECU’s can use them. Most aftermarket stand alone ECU’s utilize a 12 volt trigger signal instead of 5 volts, this is the only thing holding me back from purchasing and using your coils.

Can the stock 2jzge vvti injectors fit the manifold and fuel rail

Keep it going. we need more educational content like this!

keep it coming :)

Great video, I currently have Yaris coils installed but they don’t fit under the cover and they are kinda loose. I’m very interested in VAG short but I have a question; will they use the same connector like Yaris?.. or do I need to change the harness wiring? Also what is the part number?, any link where I can buy them ?

Hey bro can u give me some advise, I'm wondering if 1jzgte non-vvti injectors can be used on a 1jzge non-vvti

Grat video Marko / DODO :) Have you tested the coils at higher rpm than the 6000rpm for max continuous load ? like 18000 rpm (9000 rpm on a wankel engine since ignition is each revolution). That information would be very interesting to see as duty cycle gets really high even for short dwell times.

How is the warranty with your coils??

Great video 👍 very well explained. The wiring from here to the ecu and explaining ecu variants / stock ecu’s would be helpful for even a short video ?

Hi I wanted to know if the Yaris Denso coils can work if you have 15.5 volts thank you very much to anyone who will help me

Really happy with all the learning/ R&d showcase this video provided. Thank you guys

This is very nice and I would have a warm and fuzzy about buying an ignition harness from you. But for an everyday street car for around 650-700hp, would this be needed or could I run a single pwr/gnd10 awg and splice 6 12s to it?

Dose the VAG Short clear the intake on GE

Hey guys! Nice product indeed! One very important question, this video shows RED coils, your site shows them in teal blue, can we PLEASE get them in red??! :) Thanks.

Does this kit work on a 2jzge vvti engine?

Perfect video!

such an easy to follow method. Thankyou for showing us one bit at a time. I now know why changing an ecu over is so time consuming. very professional

hi dodo . what dwell is optimal for r8 coil ?

now the 2jz ge can become an ultimate daily driver engine

Very informative video, thank you for taking the time to make this as it makes way more sense now. I had a few questions concering the GTE intake manifold in my Lexus IS300. I want to convert from the tublar to the front facing style intake like the GTE. If I go with your low profile fuel rail and GTE intake manifold (Off any GTE motor btw?) what kind of modifications will I need to do on my IS300 (2JZGE) to get it to physically fit? ie: Will I need to relocate the ECU box and power steering?

Is there a way to use JDM 2JZGTE vvti 440cc injectors on a 2JZGE vvti , from what I've read the 440cc injectors are high impedance while the 270cc are low impedance but you can get a resistor box I already have these injectors from a aristo and would like to use them if I can

One more question. 😅 On the 2jz ge vvti you have no camshaft Sensors on the head. Would it be possible to machine custom valve Covers and mount them in there? Also do i have to get the intakte only? Or both? And why

Another question I have. The 2jz ge vvti na is an interferance engine when it comes to valves and pistons right? How does one get the engine to Top dead Center when Timing it? Do you have to watch out while instslling the cams too? Sounds Hella complicated.

I´m curious about the vvti on the 2jz ge. I have no idea how someone would set that up on a map. Also i would want to know if its enough to just have the intake or the exhaust cams with a sensor or if i dont need eather off them. Thanks

Informative video, I have a question. Is it required to wire a Ballast Resistor to these coils to prevent from burning them up? or can they be permanently wired directly to battery source voltage? thanks

Thank you for your very detailed video. Since you now have an extra harness, can't you sell it to me? :D

@6:37 with the TC-1 copper crimps I prefer to Strip the wire long enough that it covers both crimping ends. Doing this will make the middle of the TC-1 Terminal stronger as for example if you take one and bend it in the middle it will break very easily, this once heat shrunk together if bent enough could potentially cause a cold joint. Having those wires cross over both of the two middle crimp tabs will also allow full amperage to pass through versus relying solely on the surface area of the TC-1 Terminal. Just my two cents. For larger crimps much like you've done, I have however much like you used the longer tabs to crimp all wires together and then used glue-lined heat shrink to aid in straight relief. keep in mind, I still allow the wires to at least cross-over the middle of the terminal connector and join each other where possible. Great video, very well detailed and You've shown some very nice tricks. I'd have probably ran all the coil +/- wires with the Recommended 18awg or slightly larger 17awg wire all the way down to the 6th coil where I would have then made either two crimps to one or one large crimp using a larger TC-C,B,orA connector to hold all the wires together and glue-line heatshrink. Less cutting and less crimp points that if not done correctly or with the right tools could lead to a failure or cold joint later down. I do understand why you chose your desired method as it will likely lead to a less bulkier harness. Very informative, keep em coming. I still would like to see a 2JZ GTE OEM Coil test against these New Dodo Racing coils. Lets make it happen 😉 Watching from the Caribbean, Dominica 🇩🇲 #767

Nice video. Think you nailed it, with just the right amount of information. cheers from New Zealand

Can you run different brand fuel rails on these runners like radium etc. or do you specifically have to use the DODO brand?

im very happy about this new series

Thank you for your diligence in pursuing the virtues of the GE-VVTi cylinder head. It's cheap, flows just as well as a GTE, and VVTi is definitely an advantage in terms of midrange torque - and therefore turbo response. Having set up my own GE-T using your (excellent) intake runners, I have a few thoughts/musings: 1. Toyota drive-by-wire GTE throttles are old, rare and expensive. TAARKS makes a nice adaptor to marry the inexpensive and prolific DBW Bosch throttle bodies to the GTE intake manifold. It's a nice solution, ends up being more compact than the Toyota throttles, Bosch supplies good P.I.D. values for your ECU, and it won't interfere with any fuel rail arrangement. 2. While I understand and respect why you chose the injector bung size you did for your GE-T runners, I strongly believe the most reliable approach to injectors is to use the press-fit adaptors into the injector bungs - and injectors that slip into them. The reason for this is the big fat "Denso Cushion" o-ring/gasket design for sealing the OEM injectors into the injector bungs is a poor design for a boosted engine. That design was meant to create a good seal for an engine that would see no more than 0psi - and would usually be under vacuum. Any boost will create pressure on that injector gasket and try to lift it off its seat - creating a boost leak. This design relies on the fuel rail to keep the injector pressed down, hard, against the injector bung. This is not theory; many people have experienced this issue and fought to achieve a reliable seal between injector and intake manifold. The press-fit adaptors that tightly fit into the injector bung will resist boost pressure - and allow the injector o-ring to work like a regular o-ring should - which is to say, creating a circumferential seal inside a bore. It also makes fine-tuning for perfect injector length a non-issue because it's ok for the injector so slide a few mm up and down between the fuel rail and intake manifold. 3. Don't forget to add a fuel pulse damper to the fuel rail. 4. GTE upper plenums are getting much harder to find. You should make a cast, affordable, bolt-on replacement that doesn't require much (if any) re-plumbing. Most of the aftermarket plenums eliminate the runner-length that Toyota designed into the upper plenum - which decreases low/mid range torque in exchange for (modest) improvements in top-end power. They also position the throttle much lower and further outboard in the car. Both of these factors are fine for a racecar, but less than ideal for a street car. I'm sure you'd sell as many upper plenums as you do lower runners... I'd take on this project myself but I'm too lazy. You seem to have the verve to get it done.

Great video. How would the rails fit for an aftermarket throttle on the gte plenum?

Very Informative, good Video. Looking forward to more videos of this kind. Great engineering on you guys part. Well done.

How is the flow affected with the low profile?

So helpful thanks!! You should also mention the common brands and the injector sizes they use like did and ID and fic

Thank you! looking forward to more shrine content

We need more 2jz Ge content .

Will your coils by any chance fit 4g63 engines, sorry for the off topic, I know you guys are dedicated to the 2JZ community.

Great Job Mario! 🎉

Would love to see these against the oem 2JZ GTE coils. No one ever tests them but cars have done upwards of 1000hp on them. I love that you guys made this coil with such high output, I’ll be looking into these for my GTE when I plan on upgrading my coils

@DodoRacing What part number are the short VAG coils you’ve used in this testing. The only short one I can seem to come up with is 036905715F ( 4:30 )

Will you have wiring harness for this too?

Sent email days ago and no one replied.. your kit isn't available

Really cool to see you guys come out with new product! I hope your log manifold is gonna fit in my MK3 Supra and i might pick up a set of coils aswell cuz they sound great!

nice

Cool

Sub! Hope for more ge content.

Any other changes needed if you change from factory 2JZ Denso to these?

Excellent and informative video. Idea for further testing. Every OEM under the sun makes a variant of the R8 coil. would be good to see which ones are worth it and which ones are to avoid. Personally I stick to NGK and Denso, but would be good to see how they all stack up. Jordan

Holy shit this man made a coil dyno fucking awesome