if you use stock rods, don't go over 7 psi of boost for around 200-210 hp at the crank. I made that mistake and I got a rod flying out of the crankcase during a highway pull lmao. If you have forged rods but stock pistons, you may go up to 13 psi for around 330-340 hp at the crank. I did that and it's been fine for over 2 years. If you want to go high boost 400 hp++ etc you need forged rods AND pistons. Forged rods are quite cheap, the chinese ones from Kingtec are less than $200 a set and they're great. Forged pistons on the other hand are more difficult to manufacture so you must be ready to spend at least $500-600 for those. Otherwise, you can use stock OEM toyota cast pistons, but don't go over 330-340.

This is an old video, the engine popped a rod a few months later. I bought a 3zz short block which I stroked to 1.8l using 1zz pistons and forged rods. It's been pushing 340 bhp at 13 psi of boost on an F55 turbo (rather large for that engine) and so far no problems.

yes that was back when I was still running my torque converter 4-speed auto.

of course, it's actually better with a manual. Since that video was made, I swapped mine to a manual.

technically yes, but actually no. I got a 3zz crankcase and installed 1zz forged internals. custom-milled 1zz crankshaft, 1zz forged rods and upgraded pistons, BC forged 1zz valve springs & retainers etc I'm also running 800cc injectors to go with the large increase in boost pressure and a new 3" turbo-back straight pipe.

there's no such things as affordable parts my man, unfortunately. Turboing your 1.8 is gonna cost you at least $3k. Depends on where you live.

There's a lot, I might forget some. For the latest build iteration it goes like this. Engine and drivetrain: -1ZZ engine block -1ZZ upgraded pistons & ring set -1ZZ forged 4340 chromoly rods -ARP rod bolts -BrianCrower valve springs & retainers -custom milled 1ZZ crankshaft (my tuner took care of having that done) -550 ccm Denso injectors -Kooper 340 lph E85 pump -NGK Iridium plugs -GReddy hybrid tubo with F55 impeller (it's a big turbo, lags a lot but doesn't need much boost pressure to make a lot of power) -custom-made stainless steel turbo manifold with heat wrap and turbo blanket -HKS blowoff valve -PrecisionTurbo wastegate -K&N air filter -custom-made 2.5" straight pipe exhaust (to be replaced with a 3.5" setup later down the line so I can increase boost further) -custom-made stainless-steel IC piping and charge pipe -Datatec StandaloneSilver ECU with dual map system (E85 + RON95 tune) -5-speed manual transmission swap with a locally-made 4-puck sprung race clutch (BP brand) Suspensions and wheels : -Enkei-made Toyota TRD 17" wheels -Bridgestone Potenza RE004 215/45 tires -Streetmax lowering springs (quite stiff, but not too much) -locally-made Tsuyoi tower strut bar and rear sway bar (makes the car handle like a go-kart, there is almost no more body roll) -Nexzter ProSpec 600C brake pads Other: -custom-made leather & carbon fiber steering wheel (Camry-based) -Defi turbo boost gauge -Autool X50 Pro OBD2 multifunction gauge -Leather red-stitched shift knob w/ alcantara red-stitched shifter trim -Android 8" headunit -Replica Voltex 140-cm wing because "racecar" lmao

Yep 11 psi on stock internals. The stock toothpick rods couldn't cope any longer. I probably already had bent rods and rod knock and/or piston damage as the car had started burning oil about 2 weeks prior (it burned 2 quarts in barely 500 km which is A LOT). The rods flew out of the crankcase and spilled all of the oil on the drivetrain and on the road (super dangerous for other road users btw...) Since then I got a salvage engine block and built it with forged internals, forged chromoly rods, upgraded pistons, custom-milled crankshaft and BC valve springs and retainers allowing me to rev up to 7,600 rpm with no risk of valve float. I also upgraded the clutch to a 4-puck sprung race clucth. Car now makes 300 whp (around 330-335 at the crank) at 13 psi and has been pretty reliable so far though I only use it on weekends these days. I am planning to drop in a new larger exhaust system to get rid of back pressure and increase boost to 18 psi to aim for 360-370 whp. I also need to get an LSD as I get nothing but wheelspin when going into boost in 1st and 2nd.

?

Sounds like hydrogen shit woman surprised

I'm sure I'll have some more a fuckin genius 🫤

The automatic transmission exploded after about 8,000 km along with the driveshafts. I swapped in a short-ratio 5-speed manual gearbox. The swap cost around 50,000 baht. The stock engine also wont handle more than 7 psi (0.5 bar) of boost. The stock rods are too thin and weak. I learned it the hard way by cranking up the boost, then a rod went flying out the crankcase while going 170 kph... I dropped in a new engine with fully forged internals, forged bottom end with custom-milled crankshaft, forged beefy rods and upgraded pistons, as well as BC springs and retainers for the top end. Engine now puts out 300 hp at the wheels and can rev up to 7,600-7,700 rpm safely (enough). Watch my more recent videos if you're interested.

@@TBsoftair Oh. Thanks you so much for your information, Have a nice day!

@@kaokao17 you're welcome. I just uploaded a quick video of a short launch and pull through the first 3 gears if you wanna check it out.

@@TBsoftair the rebuilt engine is a 1,8?

@@becsebebo561 yep, it's still the 3zz block, but we stroked it with forged 1zz parts including pistons.

was a turbocharged 3ZZ 1.6 liter. That engine exploded so... Now I have a fully-built and forged turbocharged 1ZZ under the hood. More powaaaa

it's hard to keep the camera steady in this kind of situation, plus, the camera was crap.

ikr. I think I had a SLI of GTX460 at the time of this video, but I don't remember for sure. I currently have a GTX1070, but I stand by what I said back then, the GT430 was a very good little card that performed very well for its price, kind of like the GT1030 nowadays.

it was not easy to hold it steady and unfortunately the camera I had back then was really crap.