Personally I love feeling the engine, road, etc. The harder the bushing the better. I put the Powerflex insert in the mount under the transmission in the Macan. Reminds me of the GTi/Scirocco days, LoL If and when I can find a hard bushing kit and control arms with something stiffer I will replace those. Otherwise back to Lemforder I guess.

Mine ran real well with dual carbs. I don’t think I would use the filter that reduces the size of the fuel line. You will starve the system. There is a reason Porsche used the size fuel line they did.For some reason at 3000 rpm’s mine took off almost like I had more fuel pressure. Or maybe by 2nd carb was fixed to come on at 3000 rpm. Don’t know much about dual one barrel carbs, but mine really took off above 3000.

Horid Rust

Nasty rust, much more hiding behind what is seen

Hi, I need a set of motor mounts. Let's connect when you get those.

LoL on your missing parts. Things have a way of hiding from ya when you need them. They show up when you're looking for something else. Gods' sense of humor I guess. 10 to 1 says I find the spare set of keys to that Cadillac I traded last year when I dig my rotary hammer drill out of storage next week!

Is this the "DX" engine they used in the GTi? My BFF drove one, a 1984?

Thanks for the walk through, very valuable.

what is the correct term used for those 'triple square bolts'?

I just had my axle ruined by a dodgy cv boot replacement. I think i'm better replacing entire drive shaft

Brown and white goes to the pressure switch on the pressure pipe going from the turbo to throttle body.

Sounds like you've got a pot out dude😮

Thanks for doing this. Appreciate that you are sharing knowledge.

Thank you for all your videos. You have helped me out a lot. I have a 1973 914 just about the same problems. I like the way you solve your problems with the car thanks again 914 owner I love the car.

As a very recent owner of a 924 Turbo with zero knowledge this is so helpful in understanding how it all work. Thankfully I don't have any leaks (yet), so I am hoping you finish this series before I have to get to this point. Excited to see what comes next.

hi, i recently found your video series. Having worked on these for ages its always interesting to see someone else working on them for the first time. Before you do anything else take the turbo off and remove that turbo gasket, it should only be the ring (if you have the groove) or the gasket. If you put both in there it will start to leak and it will be hell to change it as you pointed out. Theres also a specific torque sequence on the hot side to reduce the risk of cracking, which oculd be good to follow. If you want i can send over all the factory manuals if you dont have them, therese a bunch more in them compared to haynes which can be a bit shaky on this car. BTW, those turbo bolts look like std grade bolts, you should use something high spec that can handle the heat, or they will loose the clamping force over time. Ill gladly help if you have any more thoughts around the engine rebuild :)

Great video. Not many out there showing step-by-step work on the 931. Will be valuable for years to come!

🎉

Thanks for doing this.

Do you have video of lower end assembly and pistons install?

You used RTV sealant around the head gasket? Is that what is called for in Haynes manual or you did that for insurance?

I've been waiting for this! I have 924 Turbo, waiting for inspiration like this!

Thanks for the update! I have the same year 931 (also currently disassembled) and there were 2 guide pins when I removed the head. Split cotter pin with a bevel on each end. These came off with the head when I pulled it. Thought I lost one until I noticed that they get pushed flush into the head if you set it on a flat surface. Take a close look at your head and see if they are pushed in. I was able to push mine back out from the top by hand with a punch. If lost, let me know and I will make some detail measurements of them. Easy to recreate with some thin spring steel. I agree not necessary but will make lining up the head and gasket easier.

😀 "Promo sm"

I just did mine, same approach. On the inner long, engine bay, I doubled 16 gauge for additional reinforcement, as much of the load is applied to this area. Make sure to measure your door gaps, mine shifted slightly and I am using a porta power to get that extra 1/4 inch spacing

Going through the same mess with my 914-6.

Moving right along, and taking the time to document. Should be helpful to others since these cars aren’t unrusting with age.

Thanks for your videos! Gives me inspiration to keep plugging away on my projects as well.😊

Glad to see you back.

I am going through the same mess with my 73 widebody..

Replace the cross member, and I will feel better when I buy the car from you. 😉

A test drive must feel good but you must struggle to decide which car to drive!.! What state are you in, I am in southern california.

Wiggle in the trams out, had to be a bit difficult.

I am having a hard time keeping up, Hans

I have a 74 1.8 with the OEM L-Jetronic FI and it runs all day long. I ebayed a backup ECU just in case the original gives up. Installed upgraded fuel pump and fuel lines from gas tank to engine bay. Best part is, no gas fumes from carbs. I will be following you with much interest.

I guess you really don't know until you get in there.I have a 2.0 that will not spin , hopefully it may have a similar fix.Thanks for the video Videos!

Did you fabricate that part? If so, people would want to see that process!

Great, and nice work.

Looking good, no shortcuts in this kind of work.

Hmm, I would strip the red and go back to factory color. To really replace pan and longitudinal work, really needs a rollover jig to make the job simpler.

Sway bars are not original. Maybe Tangerine. My 1974 2.0 has original sways, no adjustment.

This 914 never had that buzzer but IIRC that's all looped thru seat belts and seat pressure sensors to let you know your seat belt is made. Possibly runs thru the relay under the passenger seat. Note that main ignition rums thru that as well. I pulled the relay and spliced the two large yellow wires to get ignition.

As a matter of interest, did you work out how to disable that terrible buzzer that starts when you open the driver’s door. That is one job I have to do.

parts car

😊Very helpful reference for Axle work on the Macan. So much easier to remove the top ball joints than messing with the heat shields to get the axle out. Thanks for recording and posting.

Put the spacers back in and linkage will work

These videos are highly informative, thank you so much!

A/c is why the holes are in the frunk

Correct thet use to laydown the condesers, AC probably never worked well, people are now cutting holes in the front trunk bottom for radiators and airflow to keep front end down.

Overall not bad at all rust wise in the pans, got lucky, hopefully the battery rot did not rust out the frame.