Very nice setup with the chain measuring that goes straight into the breaker.

I dont care about bar weight 😂😂 once the chain is on the guide bar, the weight of the guide bar itself does not matter.

I bought a couple of the 06 light bars and the es light bars in 25" lengths. I personally didn't like the flex they had when bore cutting hardwood. I went back to the regular weight es bars and saved the money. Really appreciate all your videos. Have a good day.

The carbon bar in the picture is from 2012-2013. They were a prototype that was given out to some dealers and employees. I have never seen a lightweight bar over 36" and they are a bit flimsy at that length. Over 42 inches the bars change over to very heavy weight designs because they bounce and chatter all over the place when cutting. An example of this is the GB extra long bars 36 inch and up built on 080 gauge harvester bars with 063 grooves.

Stihl Carbon fibre bar kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6HGXq2sm82LjMksi=ClqojetR7FCY0jg7

Another outstanding video. Didn't even realize it was 42 minutes! Anyway, I have the Oregon 611 grinder with the hydraulic chain clamp. Works pretty well. Can you go into more detail about the 10 deg. down angle vs. the offset grinding? I'm not really clear on what you meant. Also, I'd love a video on the different types of grinding wheels. Pink, green, white, CBN, etc. I know they produce different finishes but that's all I know. Thanks a bunch!

the mounting tip is different and does not fit other saws

The Sugihara Light Pro in 20'' is 1070g. There is a UK website that sells most brands with the weight listed on all their bars. I think the ES Light is the best. However a 20'' Tsumara Premium Light is only 898g.

Great information. It would have been good if you had demonstrated the use of each type of gauge on a chain tooth so the difference could be seen.

Easiest way to check for sharpness is to run your finger from back to front on the top and sideplate. You'll have a burr sticking up if properly filed.

buy the cheapest chain, sharpen it with a flat file or a flat diamond wheel for razor sharp. i have a ms170 with a 20" blade, don't need more power. can use it all day long.

One of the best vids on this topic.

Weird, I was actually trying to fix my carberator today on stihl ms 461. No luck ....

Excellent stuff, Oz! . Now, tell me why do we call them rakers? They're no more rakers than flipping a rake upside down is a rake! They're depth limiters, so the tooth is't trying to take a 5mm cut, if my understanding is correct!

If you are looking for a subject- Stihl has or had an RSC chain (chisel comfort). What did they do to make it different thAn regular RS? Stihl does not get specific and my dealer has no idea. Thank you for your informative videos.

For me it is Stihl RS and Hexa in the UK we have access to most chains. Oregon Chains are easily available but only slightly cheaper than Stihl. The new Husqvarna X-Cut chains are now about the same price as Stihl RS.

You take the trouble of protecting the handles before you put them on the vise. That's the sign of a man that looks after his working implements properly.

Very good points u r making here,modern saws r becoming more n more of a Stihlshop workshop problem n fixing! Now my 400 has a slight oiling problem it doesn't get enough oil to the 25" bar using Stihl bar n chain oil ! Don't really want to pull it apart n insert oiler from a 462 saw ! What would u recommend ??? I thank you in advance Gunter

I'm finding a bigger variety in semi than full. Full chisels all seem to have found a cutter profile and stuck with it, with similar side and top clearance angles and cutter profiles, just with different grinds. Semi changes not only with brands but also within different pitches in a brands line up. Oregon's 325 semi is different to their 3/8, Stihls 3/8 picco uses a different corner shape to there 3/8 and so on. All my favourites are dead now. Carlton B3E and ALM, Windsor 58A, even my favourite saw manufacturer is gone

Have you had any experience on a Maxx Pro Grinder? I'm contemplating getting one.

I agree that semi-chisel is the most common sold to the non-logger community. Most anyone making a living with a saw will be running full chisel. Cutting clean wood ie no grit or sand and they understand the importance of maintaining a sharp working corner. As far as who makes chain- sadly a lot of manufacturing is being out sourced (cheap labor). I recently came across a brand name chain and right out of the box the grind was terrible. Obviously, quality control had gone down the tubes.

Semi chisels for longer sharpness

Maybe I'm just lucky,, but I seem to do ok with teeth with different lengths. Sometimes the teeth are nubs or just break off and so I'll be missing a few, while one side has almost full-length teeth. Maybe it depends on the wood?

I’ve spoken to others about this for years, hey don’t listen. Look at you as if your mad.

1) Excellent video. I am glad you explained it well. 2) I think that picture was showing a purposeful curved cut. But it does demonstrate what happens. 3) As a peripheral issue, you do find people who simply can't hold a saw straight. Some people just can't cut straight. 4) I use the WCS prog plates. And by the way, a person can learn to eye-ball the rakers with experience. 5) Lastly, a bent bar can cause a curved cut. I've done that - along with every other mistake. :-)

Just heads up, Oregon has changed their angles to 55 degrees on everything excluding ripping chains (50) and 80TXL, 325 LP (70)

My USG’s last about 2 years before everything turns sloppy. Left and right I try to stay within ,2 mm tooth length. Our softer wood likes raker deprh ,65 on the 3/8P and you can get away with ,85 for the bigger lumber and 3/8. I try and stay .05 difference max left and right on the raker depth and normally the saws cut straightisch :-) What you need is a little bit of rope and a jug of water, so you can tickle the USG down in stead of forcing it down over it’s own spring. And a second USG set to 10 degrees top angle. 0 degree straight down the line. With just a smidgen of offset. An M8 locknut to keep the rail set so that the chain just slips through. Remove the backstop. And just grind those rakers flat by pulling the raker through the stone. Thats how we do it commercially and make those USG’s pay for themselves ;-) As for doing a bit of sawing myself. Frequent cups of tea and swipes with the file and use the correct progressive raker guage. You just know it when she’s running like a hot knife through butter! You’re engineering approach is very meticulous and makes fine how to do it videos. And I love to watch em. Sadly 99.9% of customers just want a sharp chain. God bless em all 😂😂

That was very educational, thank you.

While certainly ideal to have all the teeth the same length. I'm guaranteed to rock a new chain on its first outing if I carved all them teeth back all the time that's all I would get done The only thing that matters is that the teeth are sharp and that the rakers are adjusted to the right depth in my opinion My chain still cut straight and there is some wild variation and how big the teeth are usually. I also don't count strokes I sharpen until that tooth is sharp with a however many that takes.

Yep Yep you would be right Watch and learn lol

Oh no not another chainsaw sharpening video.

Hi Found some interesting info relating to kerf width and chain reactive kinetics built into the design. _"The top plate is angled down at about 8 degrees which moves the chain engineering wise to the outsides so it creates a cut that is wider than the bar and chain and rivets ..."_ Look at the visual linked to get the sense of what he's saying. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJrYlpiaebWShas Cheers and have a great day sincerely d

You have nice grinders they grind pretty evenly. The knock offs or low end grinders can be 1-2mm different from left to right cutters. I have a cheap grinder the left hand cutters come out shorter than the right. To fix this I grind the left side first then measure the right and make it match.

Would you say the stihl grinder is worth the price?

Even the best roads have pot holes.

Hi and thanks for sharing. I think you'll find that 36 cutting teeth on a 72 drive link chain is full comp. My full comp chains are 81 drive links and 40 cutting teeth so a ratio of about 2:1 is full comp/house. Cheers sincerely d

On the oregon grinder, if set the head angle to 60 deg as used for grinding, then turn the grind wheel back to front, you can hold the dressing block flat. Then turn the wheel back, that will give you the required 30 degrees on the wheel edge. Leaving the head angle at 60 degrees should give you the reqd profile for hexa.

Hi and thanks for sharing, appreciated. Oh yes. Guides, used right help so much! Why? _(rhetorical)_ I recently watched _"Dan Tilton Chainsaw Safety"._ It has some good info. He said 85% of the performance of a chainsaw is the chain. There is some truth in that. Your vid on the leading edge and 1st mm or so of side plate gives a big part of why. Sharpness starts with getting the following right on each tooth: 1. The leading edge pointy (to penetrate wood fiber) 2. Side plate sharp (to cut the fibers) 3. Top plat sharp (to chisel out the cut fibers) and 4. Depth gauge height (to set angle of attack and depth of cut) Hitting 1, 2 and 3 are *precision* actions. If one swipe hits them, no need for more and if 10 hasn't then more are needed. When people come to their chain without the why, they are without power and often blindly following what others told them to do. _(Time indexed link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaiyYXZ6jt2srsU )_ 4. Depth gauge height has *dynamic and precise* requirements. One swipe too much can be the difference between smooth or bumpy cutting. (Note: If I use the Stihl FG2 on a chain and don't change it's file height then after a few tanks cutting, the semi chisel chain can be brought back on many teeth with just 1 or 2 strokes. Because the FG2 sets up exactly the same, the file profiles each tooth the same as the last time. BUT when sharpening for a new chain many more stokes are usually needed because the factory grind was not with a file so it's profile has to be filed in. Thanks again for sharing Cheers sincerely d

Follow up comment on BBR as unreliable source. My comment on BBRs _How to Cut a leaning tree down Pro faller tips_ kzbin.info/www/bejne/eni6mJyQmJh5d8k The diagram explanation doesn't make sense. The state of the tree before it fell, for quite a long time, was held only with the hinge. *If there was any capacity for the order of cuts to let it drop toward the lean before releasing the tree - it would have happened when all but the hinge was removed!* My conclusion, this is entertainment creating drama where there really isn't any. Reiterating: Any tendencies of the various "Plates" to influence the fall were cut away, so the tree would have sat down into the lean if it could. But it couldn't and didn't because the hinge wood had enough tension and compression to hold the trunk. The video puts up the text *“Manipulating Physics”* basically stating that the explanation is impossible! The video is a joke on the gullible, if you were deceived learn from the experience. Don’t uncritically accept supposed authorities explanations and claims without checking against reality - the source of authority. The capacity of good wood to withstand compression and tension forces is seen in the small amount of hinge that held the tree. Seems to me the dramatic explanation created an imaginary belief about the reality of felling trees and gave many viewers a false impression about what was happening in this case. Dangerous entertainment Have a good one all sincerely d

BLOG/ALL/BEST CHAINSAW CHAINS RANKED BY USER RECOMMENDATIONS AND PERFORMANCE Best Chainsaw Chains Ranked by User Recommendations and Performance ALL - 11 MIN READ April 25, 2024 1. Stihl Chains Stihl chains are frequently cited as the top choice among users for their superior quality and durability. They are particularly noted for their aggressive cut and minimal stretch during initial use. Stihl chains hold an edge longer but tend to be more expensive, which might be a consideration for non-commercial users. Popular models include the Stihl RS Pro and the specialized 25" chain for larger tasks. 2. Oregon Chains Oregon is another highly recommended brand, favored for its balance between cost and performance. Users appreciate the Oregon EXL chain for its availability and affordability, even though it may require more frequent sharpening compared to Stihl. Oregon's broad accessibility in stores like Home Depot makes it a go-to choice for casual and semi-professional users alike. 3. Husqvarna Chains While not as commonly discussed as Stihl or Oregon, Husqvarna chains are still a top pick for many users, especially those who use Husqvarna saws. The Husqvarna C85/83 chains are mentioned for their robustness, suitable for heavier and more frequent cutting tasks. In sum, while all three brands offer quality chains, the choice between them often comes down to personal preference, specific saw compatibility, and the type of wood you'll be cutting. Stihl leads with the best performance and durability, Oregon offers great value and decent performance for most users, and Husqvarna stands out for those already invested in their ecosystem of tools.

Can't you get the same effect by using a somewhat smaller file to put a deeper gullet on a conventional full chisel chain?

What if some idiot bought 2 new Hexa chains and filed one round, then used them both till they are about 70% done. After doing that and having multiple attempts at recording their cutting speed, the only conclusion they could come to was that it cuts slightly faster when round filed than with the hexa file and there’s no noticeable difference in durability. What’s that mean for the shape? The file is an excellent invention and the majority of people will be better using it rather than a round file.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHfTZH5pqJ2lrposi=gEagbLTNsz7QPX-x The above test was done 3 months ago, we used the same log approx 10 inches diameter, the test log was one month old red ironbark. Test results as follows. Saw used MS311 20 inch bar. 1) Stihl Semi Chisel 8.7 sec 2) Stihl Semi Chisel Hexa grind 8.4 sec 3) Stihl Full chisel 7.5 sec 4) Hurricane Full chisel Hexa grind 7.4 sec 5) Stihl Hexa 6.7sec Hexa at 6.7 seconds, that's 12% faster than Stihls RS Full chisel, that was 7.5 seconds. All these chains were brand new and rakers were checked for uniform height .065mm HEXA was the Winner by 12% and 30% faster than semi chisel. 30% is a game changer for me. Results may be different for different species of wood. Not all wood cuts the same. Red Ironbark has a Janka rating of 14Kn at approx 12% moisture. I measured the moisture content and it has an average of 18% moisturevb

Looks like the rakers have different geometry aswell

Don't you think, for example, that in this video there appears to be a contradiction with some of your previous videos? I'm thinking of the ones saying that only a small part of the side plate is involved in the cut, and that cleaning the gullet is not very important. If we abandon the use of Hexa files, the whole system does not make much sense. Hexa files and grinding wheels, like traditional round-profile files and grinding wheels, form a system where, when sharpening one chain, the change from file to grinder or vice versa does not radically alter the cutter geometry. If you just want to compare the effect of Hexa's geometry on cutting, then you should sharpen Rapid Hexa chain with a Rapid Super wheel. Settings: 60° cutting angle, 25° top plate (sharpening) angle. If you are sharpening with a regular (round) wheel, if you lower the wheel low enough, the top plate and that important section of the side plate will still be sharpened with the flat part of the wheel, just as with Hexa. If you want to be more sure of this you can use a wheel with a smaller profile radius, e.g 3.2 mm thick Tecomec for 3/8. And if you're looking to speed up your first cuts with a freshly sharpened chain, set the cutting angle to 45°. According to old papers, increasing the cutting angle from 45° to 60° increases the energy required for cutting by about 35%. Reducing the kerf width generally also reduces the energy required for cutting, as less material is removed. But, in my experience, we also pay for this with faster dulling.

1) Don't be taken by patents. They are done to make money and control a market space. There is a perception that it is new and therefore better which one must consider. Not all that glitters is gold. 2) What does 10% faster really mean to the average user ? No one is counting seconds at the end of the day. Stihl stating that Hexa has bigger cutting teeth is just marketing BS. They know what they are saying. It's just marketing. 3) Note : My German made wood chisels have a curved cutting edge so it peels the timber instead of chipping it off. This is why Hexa is better for green timber. It's more aggressive. I have always sharpened my chisels on a round grinding wheel. 4) The kerf width on Hexa is 4.1mm. So it's like saying a 325 chain cuts better too with a narrower kerf. This is all rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic. What you lose on the swings you pick up on the round abouts. There is no free lunches. 5) Sorry but I am convinced this is just another revenue stream for Stihl. It's like new cartridges and rifles - There is nothing new under the sun. It's all about sales, marketing and consumer perception. Once you get a customer on Hexa then you've got them forever. 6) A person would watch this and come to the conclusion that Hexa is not something they need. 7) You asked "Why not make all 3/8th kerf widths 4.1mm" ? The answer is that Stihl wants to make money by creating a segment of the market that's not required and then cornering it. When you ask yourself all these questions you need to think about these words "money, profit, marketing and perception". In short, the answer to your questions is sales and customers. I'm just going to keep using semi chisel and full chisel skip. My life is very simple and easy. I like it that way.

Felling use full chisel, on the landing use semi chisel. Why? Usually no dirt when felling, plenty of dirt on the landing

Hey spanner man, is your tacho from jono and johno ?

Good video. Also tune under load in wood is something that can improve performance.

The beauty of filing on top of the depth gauge is that you don't risk accidentally filing into the cutter, on the sharp side of the cutter. If you touch the back side of the cutter is not important.