kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnKslnirqsZkns0 kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZDRdXqwhb5no7c

It's Phil's plane ,he added balsa curved wing tips after removing the tip tanks he say's it is more agile ,but it has always been fast with the standard motor/edf unit. .Nice flying plane, he set the ailerons up 1 to 2mm reduce any tip stall tendency but with the light 6s 4000mah HRB never been a problem, we did reduce the spring rating on the gear it was like a super ball as standard, getting the landing slightly wrong and it would throw itself upside down.

Hiya Derek, thanks for the visit. We had good fun 😅

See what you did there 😉

it's a slide fit the inner combustor tube fits inside the inner NGV and the outer combustor fits over the outside of the NGV as per book, it needs to be a good slide fit .

@@reedy93 Thank you, how deep does it slide in your case ? There is Not much Space for the immer NGV, so i think its like 2 - 5 mm ?

Most people went with single front lube, the same as Kurt's latest design's a needle in front of the front bearing the air also comes in that way no other holes in the bearing tube the air lubes and cools both bearings . the problem with the early fd3/64 was the centre air hole in the bearing tube soot/carbon contaminated the bearings and on the kj66 THE front bearing it could run dry . The oil is in the fuel 5% and is Teed off the main fuel line with 5% metered down going to the bearings.

@@reedy93 Thanks for the reply, very exhaustive. I still have another question for you, on the works plan they say to use a CV 470 cartridge for the external case which is made of steel. For practical reasons, I purchased a gas cylinder cover of the same size but in aluminium, can it still resist the temperatures?

@@user-sx4dv6jp5v I don't have any experience with aluminum outer body ,I know commercially made turbines use them the NGV can reach over 650c at start up aluminum melts at 660c and looses a lot of strength at over 200c your first turbine will have heat issues unless you get everything right first go also corrosion may become a problem unless you anodize the aluminum .steel can is zinc plated inside and is not a problem ,the case gets plenty of oil/fuel on start up /shut down so no rust problems inside, the original gas can Kurt used is only 0.3mm thick and is very light even the paint holds up well to temperature. Most other disposable gas cans with screw on fitting are slightly thicker at 0.5mm but still light but these will not Z bend as Kurt shows for fixing the NGV on . If you notice on the outer body of mine ( 1.15)still has the swaged end on the can ,I just ground it away on the bottom till you can see the lines of the can appear ,about 0.5mm off then tap the dished bottom inward it will twist round then pull out clean, it even leaves a chamfer lead to fit the front diffusor ring in .

@@reedy93 Thanks I'll keep that in mind. my last question is about the hypodermic needles that inject the fuel. Can I also make them straight? Or is there a reason if they are curved like the ones you made or as they are represented on the drawings? Also, do they have to be perfectly in the center of the vaporizers?

@@reedy93 Please can you explain me this last thing for the epidermic needles about the position of them in the vaporizer and the shape?

it was standard practice early on with home built engines to not weld the front combustion chamber . 1/ if you do weld, use spot welding, tig or mig will distort badly. 2/ I am only using 316/310 stainless for the fuel vaporizer tubes/sticks these tend to burn away at the ends this was also common on early commercially made engines with better material such as Inconel (very expensive). 3/ the outer body of the combustion chamber can burn /blister and I have seen the last big holes on outside increase in size /burn away . 4/ having it wired together means i can remove /repair any 1 part and easier to check if everything is burning correctly. 4/ with the KJ66 all has looked good but not done a great deal of hours on engine flying will degrade the sticks a lot faster having seen Rob Wardale's (early engine builder) engines after much flying. 5/ if you notice I have spot welded the back pressing to the outer combustion chamber and the front pressing is welded to the inner combustion tube if the sticks burnt i could grind the tabs off and replace the sticks. not easy to spot weld when all together at the front outer.

@@reedy93 Hello, Thank you again for your effort. Your the Only one that answeres me. I have now Most of the Parts. And you said something about „sliding fit“ Ablout the axle hub and the NGV, because of the Expansions. I dont find the Word for „Sliding fit“ in my Language so i dont Know exactly What you mean. Do you mean that the axle hub should be able to „slide“ through NGV? Or do they have a gap After everything is Installer? This is very Important for me, Thank you because right now my Axle hub does not slide through the NGV! Thank you very much!

@@mola2646 At 3.18 the ally bearing tube is a sliding fit /push fit in the stainless steel NGV . The whole alloy assembly bearing tube and diffusor push's into the outer body and into the NGV centre hole and is only screwed/fastened at the front to the outer body this allows for any different expansion between the two.

Once again i have a question After You helped me a lot! Does The NGV + welded flange has to be installed from outside to the housing and the second flange from the inside or is it the other way around? Kind Regards

@@mola2646 Yes the welded on flange on NGV is clearance on the screws the second ring fitted inside the body has tapped holes, the gas can body has clearance bolt holes. once fitted i leave it on as the NGV hole is a sliding fit on the alloy bearing tube To dismantle the engine first unscrew the compressor nut, slide out the turbine and shaft backward. Then undo the front outer screws and slide the outer case back off the diffuser and bearing tube .

just the six wires in the front to hold it together and sealed it ok ,some people had the sticks burn away so leaving it two piece i could check and repair but sticks did ok, no burn.

What do you mean by seal? Sorry my english is Not so good, and thanks for the reply even tho the videos is old, greetings

I have two More question if its okey: 1. did you welded the flange to the NGV? Or did you got it like that? 2. how did you connect the axle hub to the NGV? Only by pressing? Or also screws? You would help me a lot! Thank you!

@@mola2646 on the combustion chamber it is important to only having the air enter by the holes ,when i say seal i mean no air gaps to much air at the front will upset the combustion .

@@mola2646 1.I welded the flange to the NGV outer tube but it does tend to distort the flange and the outer NGV tube, this is how Kamps did it .allow 025mm for remachining of flange and the turbine housing inner after welding 2.The NGV inner diameter ( 1.26 time ) is a slide fit over the bearing tube at( 3.28 ).this is how the KJ66 is and allows for expansion. .

There was a steel stockiest early on that sold 75x 75x3mm blanks he was a GTBA member and went on to do a small production run of his take on the FD3/64 called the PT35 this was over 25 years ago .316 will do that can be found on Ebay.

6mm o/d.

​@@reedy93thanks a million... I spoke to u around 8 9 months ago... the fd3 is taking shape now.. have made some major changes thou... including the front cover... once its done will give u a shout

most common is 0.50mm thick 304 stainless you can also use 316 stainless shim 0.40mm don't go any thinner unless you use something more heat resistance .

It is very white on a white day and was hard for me to see Andy's eyes must be a lot better than mine .think this was the worst take off and landing of the day he had about 5 flights with no wind the ground is very soft very tippy on take off .

Keep looking at Southport WhatsApp you all need to move to seaplanes, looks ideal for a skipper need to get down there again looks like you are having fun..

@@reedy93 had the Skipper out yesterday, skipping of the puddles😄

yes for the KJ66 choose an alternative with same flat back , o/d and inducer/intake diameter also look for a wheel with retro curved vanes then the diffusor angles will be ok .the blade height at the tip needs to be 5mm to 6mm lower size reduces power but still runs ok ,be careful looking at tip sizes as most state the tip height including the base the 5mm to 6.3mm is the working height . chart below for KKK wheels 2038 is the correct one or 2201 will work but reduce power and vane height on diffusor would need to be reduced or the inlet can come throught the front cover by 1mm this leaves a step inside but does not effect the running and means you can upgrade in the future to full 6mm height. i have used the 2006 and 2016 wheels by reprofiling and reducing tip height to 6.3mm these can be cheaper to buy. www.turbomaster.info/eng/applications/compressor_3k.php

Hi sir it's me again sorry tôo brother you with so many questions. Do you think I could use the T04B compressor wheel in a kj 66?

Pick a windy day 10 to 20 mph the grass is very dry, hard ground we set the c.g correct not nose heavy with the battery pushed back as far as possible and a bumpy ground helps.

@@reedy93 made an attempt today. Ran out of runway and broke a main gear. Managed a hand launch flight though!

@@NoPlansGarage been there, done that. The second flight attempt with my Eurofighter typhoon hit a bump didn't get off and leg bent back and plowed a line in the grass. I forgot to mention Andy set the front sprung nose gear out 5mm longer to set the model more nose up, you need everything in your favor especially the 15 to 20mph wind, if you look at our landing strip it's like landing and taking off an aircraft carrier the outer grass has now been cut by the farmer has made it better. Good luck with your model.

@@NoPlansGarage Another thing you can try is setting ailerons as flaperons but only use a small amount of down to increase lift 2mm to 3mm, I have a all balsa sheet F20 design from the 70s with a pusher prop now electric that would not take off until I reprogrammed it with flaperons it does not need any mod just a rewire on aileron servos to Rx / re program on Tx

@@reedy93 wouldn’t I need to split my ailerons for that?

Other side of the pond UK Lancashire. Be careful with the 4 blade prop it torque steers bad . i put sprung legs on it with a piano wire between the retract which i bent forward more and opened up the wheel wells forward to stop nosing over on grass. it was on 4s 5000mah lipo with scale 4 blade prop at 51 amps now on 16x10 2 blade prop on 6s still the same motor as the amps are about the same with the 2 blade APC prop. Throw the ESC in the bin and buy a new one 80 amp is plenty tried to fit it inside but got too hot finished up fitting it underneath the nose you can't see it in flight

@@reedy93 Thanks, I have the 2000mm P40 torque monster also. Again, thank you so much.

@@bobfuqua384 Nice .

This is the V2 beer cooler foam one on 6s edf unit is stock 12 blade 1450kv out runner motor. it was the maiden flight for me plane was a gift off fellow club member he had flown it but I never so it flying went ok, 69amps draw on full 6s lipo with and old zippy lipo pack 5000mah.

Thanks.

@@reedy93 😎👊

ISBN 1 900371 37 5 google it and all Kurts books will be found ISBN International Standard Book Number .you can find simplified kj66 version for home build plans for free if you google. www.jmaireland.com/build%20your%20own%20turbine.pdf

@@reedy93 Sorry, there are no drawings in the link you provided.

@@emirhndrk17 www.rchelicopterfun.com/support-files/wrenmw54-build-instructions.pdf this is the smaller wren 54 plans before the uprated it .

@@emirhndrk17 www.pdfdrive.com/model-small-gas-turbine-jet-engines-d189396894.html this is Thomas kamps early design easier for home build

@@reedy93 link does not open

see book KJ66 in my other video.

@@reedy93 Which one can you give a link?

@@emirhndrk17 kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZDRdXqwhb5no7c

The main thing that well wreck a stainless wheel or any wheel is too hot running if you keep it to under 600c(550c better)and keep the revs under 80k it will last, the problem you will get if running to hot and high revs is it will expand and jam if it goes slack on the shaft you have overdone it. A twisted blade wheel will tend to untwist and jam up if ran too hot . The problem with above is very little power in a 66mm turbine wheel at 80k to fly, ok to run on a bench.

@@reedy93I haven't begun the building yet

@@laor100 email me then I have your email .

The wheel which is on the shaft is the original designed wheel with a welded on boss is made of 316 stainless or 310 stainless most important part is that it is professionally welded boss (also 316) by TIG if possible . The sold wheel is 718 Inconel which came in heat treated state and is very tough to machine I had to slit grind in between the blades ,this wheel has a 8mm hole and must be bolted on i use a solid shaft not 3 piece as in the book.

@@reedy93 tq