Dude your voice is not made for audio….ugh . You sound like your struggling to speak

Have you had any problems with the sander upside down, I had mine on its side hanging on a board with hinges. I found grease stains on my bench where it hung. Never gave it a thought that the sander has grease. Ended up with a seized motor.

2 passes with the dado set at 1/2 inch would give you a 1 inch dado. So I would run 4/8's (half inch) instead of 5/8th's It beats running a 1/8th inch blade 5 times to get 5/8th's. Sure there is the setup time but if you're running a bunch of dado's it could save some time. Me I have a router table insert in my extension table for my job site so I use that instaed.

I have a dado set for my job saw and it's able to take a dado set and it's a dewalt

Checking to see if OP is still alive...

Scary

I know I’m about two years late but you need to add flux to those solder joints - that’s why you were able to get the solder to flow

I know I'm gunna get a ton of hate for asking this but where can I see the plans/download them

Adding edge banding to this is the same as putting lipstick on a pig.

Why don’t you just get a REAL saw? A cabinet saw perhaps?..

Can I use one or two dado blades? I don’t need to put entire all dado blades

You needed to add flux to the wires before soldering

Nice build! Why put a drawer so far out of reach?

Yikes

I'd be scared to clamp the saw like that

Without a full nut engaged, you’re flying by the seat of your pants. You’d learn that whilst doing a proper engineering apprenticeship.

Is this Elon Musks underperforming kid brother?

Nicely done. I would install a power inlet instead of a long cord. Other than that it seems like a logical design.

13:15 - instead of this mess, cut off the plug, feed the cable through, then use an aftermarket 3-prong plug that you can screw the power cable in. The time savings alone is worth it. Regarding the solder. A) your iron wasn't hot enough. b) for this application you need a physical/chemical connection (solder) and a mechanical connection (heat shrink). So you did well. However, I would rather not have to splice anything and just do the plug swap I mentioned. Peace of mind and all.

Great build. Do you have plans for this cart?

Former EMT ....... yep , firm hell no. Pretty sure this is just another "hold my beer" moment like too many ive seen !

No! No! No! You can clearly see all the this is a bad advice video….

The motor sounds like its really struggling.

Is there a way to get plans for this cart. I found that your design and usage about the best I have seen. With my limited space I need about three of these. Great video!

Dang.I have the 7485. I just found a brand new dado stack set at HD for $27 on closeout and was excited to try it. After reading the comments here and s closer look at my saw I think I will skip trying it. I can see it coming loose and flying right up my face. Looks like that dado set will collect dust until I get a better saw. The router will have to do for now.

Best design I have seen here and well built. Thanks for sharing.

Im no engineer and this does not look like a good idea. I have this saw and really want to have the capability of a dado stack but I wont be trying this out. Nice to see how not to do it though.

Interesting as a demonstration but I honestly wouldn't use it in my shop due to the danger it represents having so little space for tightening the nut. Kerf blades are too much safer and yet a satisfactory alternative for wide ripping with job site table saws.

Great design. I've also been concerned about the Fisher's cart design and don't trust it to not be wobbly. Your solution of outside shelving is really clever. Your design for the blocks and locks for allowing the table to rotate only 180 deg back and forth is also quite clever. Sorry it appears your channel didn't take off and you haven't posted more. This is good stuff.

Its not compatible for several reasons. The main one being that it cant handle multiple blades for long periods of time without damaging it.

Thanks for taking the risk, your service is appreciated

I'll send this email to my democrat coworker. I believe we could all benifit from his using this setup.

Oh it CAN be done. You know what else CAN be done? You could let twin 5 year old boys play with a crate full of loaded pistols with hair triggers, after giving them a little talk on safety. Neither are going to end up with a happy ending.

This is simply dangerous.

Don't forget to get some really good life insurance.

Why not just do 3 passes theres you 1/4 dado?

I was just racking my brains had to try and design something like this. Thank you very much. I have some great ideas now.

Do you happen to have plans for sale?

Dewalt flat says NO cannot do Dato cuts with this table saw. I knew it could be done. I would find away to make the drive bolt longer is all perfect job.

😂 @ the drawing.

Well...... he lived, and didn't lose any body parts. Absolutely would not recommend people trying stuff like this.

There is a video online where a guy replaces the arbor on this saw (assuming 7480) with the longer one from the 7491rs. He includes part numbers for the arbor and the bearings, etc. Not a difficult task. I did it on mine and it works great.

Nice job. I like your locking mechanism. I was looking for some way to make this kind of a flip top for my jointer and planer. I like it is kind of a torsion box, which gives sturdiness. With regards to the soldering, then it is difficult to do unless you have a propane soldering flame. It was just fine what you did with the tool you had. The first thing is to get some solder in between the wires. Then the heat will travel through the solder through the rest of the wire when you put more on. So it it what it is and it works.

Having only half the arbor nut engaged would scare the h3ll out of me. If there’s a failure related to the arbor, the blades or the arbor nut, the blades could easily leave the saw and who knows where they will wind up - possibly in the operator’s chest or forehead. There’s another video that shows both blades and one chipper, for a total 3/8” stack, and the arbor nut is flush with the end of the arbor. That seems a whole lot safer than having only half of the arbor nut engaged.

You can change the arbor and it won't be so dangerous

I don't need to be an engineer with a working lifetime experience to know one needs what I call a "full nut" so basically you should see/feel the spindle end once tightened. I suspect in this video, removing one chipper blade would give enough spindle to work safely. As for the motor not being powerful enough; rubbish. My DW745 had an 1800 watt motor running off 240v. Plenty of power for DADOing softwood to 1/2". I very recently sold that saw without ever using or owning a dado set but my new saw a DW7491 does accept a dado stack. A 8.5" Freud DADO set arrived today. I'm sorta glad I never watched this video when I had the DW745, I just see images of blood spurting out of my neck or part of my face hanging off. No thanks.

Having to mix Imperial units for the blades with metric thickness for the shims… why don’t just do all in metric?

How many dents do u have on your planer bed from jointing boards on your planer

“It’s a poor workman who quarrels with his tools” In this case the fault lies squarely on the shoulders of your soldering iron. Just not hot enough. You did everything else right. If you can’t get enough heat into the wire so the solder melts by touching the wire only the you soldering iron is not good enough. Nice cabinet by the way.

When you are soldering you need to melt solder on the iron first. This h Ashe cooper wire so you can melt the solder into the wires.